Top Ten Perfumes of 2023 Nicoleta (Left) and J Wearescentient (R)

For my perfumista life, 2023 was one of the best ones for exploring, understanding, and seeing the big picture – and the way the perfume industry constantly adapts, morphs, and reinvents itself. It was fun to watch the rising #perfumetok niche trend turn into a billion-view phenomenon, and the new wave of TikTok creators from all over the world being creative and fun while falling in love with perfumery, in the most relaxed, authentic, and non-blaze way.

Top Ten Perfumes of 2023

The growth in the industry and the new emerging trends can be attributed mainly to young consumers coming in and joining the dance in larger numbers than ever before – and one of the most creative and artistic materializations of this trend, in my opinion, was reflected in this year’s Givaudan’s immersive project “what is love”. This year, I explored AI for work and play even further, and enjoyed seeing that what I hoped from the get-go is turning into reality sooner than expected – and this new tool, combined with real human vision is pushing the limits of creativity (and productivity) to new – unseen before – heights. I’m really looking forward to seeing what’s next, applied to perfumery, as new AI tools are developed for everything, starting from market research, to fragrance creation, to (already adopted by almost everyone in the time span of under one year) visuals for marketing campaigns. Zooming in back into concrete examples, these are the perfumes that rocked my world, and fueled my passion for perfumery even further, this year ((alphabetically).

 Nicoleta’s Top Ten Perfumes of 2023 collage by Nicoleta

Boujee Bougies Eau de Boujee Queen (Pia Long and Nick Gilbert): This is what I imagine a scent directed by Tim Burton would smell like. Moody yet fun, nouveau pastel goth meets Victorian paleness, kinetic yet with dream-like slow-moving frames. Rose jam, flowers, iris, violet s, and the whole tea party as seen from the rabbit hole. @ boujeebougies @perfumer.pia

D:SOL Sombra (Marie Urban Le Febvre) is a mermaid call, a darker spectrum of sensuality that somehow manages to keep the essence of light – even in its absence – woven into its fabric. Dark, deep, and warm, this is an olfactive journey that plays on the ancient delightful triptych of oud-rose-saffron, contextualizing it through a cinematic and modern lens. @ dsolperfumes @marie_urbanscents

 Francesca Bianchi Byzantine Amber (Francesca Bianchi): Bright yet benighted, introspective but with delicious theatrical outbursts, Amber Byzantine is a complicated fragrance that refuses to be pinned to a specific page in Francesca’s scented bestiary. An amber that is deep, dramatic, theatrical, multifaceted, and oh, so amazingly decadent.  @francesca_bianchi_perfumes

L’aventura Mothlight (Jessica Mara)  is a warm mixture of sepia sweetness and musky sensual abandon, that is fit for the ones who want to romanticize the living lights out of every day. A slice of scented flickering darkness that I would see worn by Anais Nin, in her long black hair, in the nights with full moon, as she went moonbathing. @laventura_pefumes

Le Jardin Retrouve Osmanthe Liu Yuan (Maxence Moutte) a literal ray of sun, bottled. Besides being one of the most uplifting, happy, bright perfumes I have ever smelled, it also comes with a fun scientific background, as it’s a product of years of collaborations with Givaudan, as a perfume created with the intent of enhancing feelings of happiness & delight. And trust me, it works! @lejardinretrouve @maxencemoutte

Manos Gerakinis Selene (Christina Koutsoudaki): Selene is an olfactive reconstruction of a Greek summer night, spent in an open-air cinema. Citrus tree blossoms and leaves, serene woods, and night-blooming jasmine mix in with delicious notes of praline and the warm and breezy musk to create the perfect atmosphere of a hot Athenian summer night. Pure bliss. @manosgerakinisparfums @christinakoutsoudaki

Meo Fuscini Viole Nere (Giuseppe Imprezzabile): Viole Nere is the closest thing to a dreamed-of-bespoke perfume. A perfume that I have searched for without even knowing that it exists – a mixture of fruity, earthy, mineral, and powdery textures all woven around the most beautiful modern re-iterations of a 1920s violet, that makes for a time capsule that might reveal more about your present self than many mirrors will. @meofusciuni_parfums

Parfums Dusita Rosarine (Pissara Umavijani): Rosarine is not the type of rose you put into a vase, as it remains with its roots firmly placed on the moist ground of the garden, alive, dewy green, and sappy fresh with deep chocolatey patchouli and elegant smoky woods. It swings in perfect balance between a nostalgic wave to the past and a contemporary, bright-eyed, and dynamic construction, with tart fruits and gourmand nuances, making it a must-try for any rose lover. @parfumsdusita

Puredistance PapilIo (Nathalie Feisthauer): I can’t think of a better name than “butterfly” for Papilio, with its delicate filigree of intricate patterns, the gentle flutter that makes the air vibrate, its spectrum of pastel hues – everything about it exudes brightness, lightness, and joie du vivre. Greater than the sum of all its parts, it feels alive, with different flavors, different facets, and different colors merging and melting one into the other, like a river that will never stand still. @puredistancemasterperfumes @nathaliefeisthauer

 Zoologist Harvest Mouse (Luca Maffei): Mouse is a perfume that is endearing, lovely, and cute as a button. The little mouse comes with a hefty dose of pastoral bliss and makes you cozy up in a warm nest of home-baked cookies, sun-dried chamomile, hay, and yeasty beer. My inner hobbit swoons in delight.  @zoologistperfumes @lucamaffei

Nathalie Feisthauer courtesy of the perfumer

Best Perfumer Of The Year – The amazing Nathalie Feisthauer who is the creator of one of my favorite scents of this year, Puredistances Papilio, and many of my recent crushes like like Der Duft Privilege,  Zoologist Cow, and the entire Lor line. She is also the artist that has created many of the fragrances that I started my perfume journey with:  Versace’s Blonde – the perfume that was a huge part of my fragrance awakening (and that I still miss, dearly), Oriflame’s Giordani Gold (my white floral of choice twenty years ago) the milky perfume that was decades ahead of its time – Diesel Plus Plus Feminine and also the legendary uber-feminine that needs no introduction Putain des Palaces from Etat Libre d’Orange. Thank you, Nathalie, for creating so many hits for the scented “soundtrack” of my life, and for so oh-so-many wonderful memories entwined with your creations, for almost thirty years. @nathaliefeisthauer

–Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor

J Wearescentient Top Ten Perfumes of 2023

It’s funny to be writing a Top Ten Perfumes of 2023, as I’m usually reading them to see what I missed out on during the year. Trying to make a list only confirmed I’m still playing catch up with 2022, with a long list of perfumes I’m still hoping to try from 2023. However, I did find a lot of gems this year that I smelled and/or picked up. Quite like my perfume purchasing, 2023 feels like a hangover from 2022, it’s been a year of personal growth for me, with a large side order of waiting for things that began in 2022 to come to fruition this year. I used perfume as a way of escape, travelling through them when I could not, when life got too busy. Hopefully I’ll make it to Milano, Venice or Monaco to smell more in 2024, for now here my Top ten perfumes of 2023 I loved, alphabetically.

J Wearescentient Top Ten Perfumes of 2023 collage by J

Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait (Jean-Claude Ellena): Heaven Can Wait feels very vintage for Frederic Malle, almost like Jean-Claude Ellena has switched from watercolour to oils. He delves into a world of deeper and more luxurious spiced tones. The focus on clove creates a mesmerizing dance of fragrant petals, as if a spiced carnation is gracefully unfolding before your eyes. The use of warm, textured notes and a touch of powdery smoothness, creates a sensually captivating experience as it settles on your skin. The powdery spices gently radiate warmth, gradually transforming into a seductive blend of plum and a cumin/clove spice which evokes the spirit of Edmond Roudnitska. Heven Can Wait resonates with a symphony of carnal spices that whisper of hidden desires. Rather beautiful in a classic way. They said it’s a homage to an old forgotten classic, can you guess which? More of this please Frederic Malle! @fredericmalle

Headspace Kirsch (Paul Guerlain): Ok I got Kirsch super late in the day but wow I had to mention it here (briefly for now with a full review in the new year) As a teaser Paul Guerlain has created a boozy black cherry that’s rich and full of subtle floral notes like Sakura and iris with soft rich leather and oakmoss facets that captures the feel and pleasure of an Ume plum sake. I’ll leave your mouth watering for now, but keep an eye out for more. This is special and now my favourite from Headspace. @headspaceparfum  @paulguerlain

Marissa Zappas The Pink Bedroom (Marissa Zappas): I love to collect olfactive art when I can; The Pink Bedroom was created by Marissa Zappas, for artist Portia Munson’s exhibition of the same name at the Museum of Sex in New York City, earlier this year. After trying to order online I managed to get a bottle of this 10ml limited-edition roll-on perfume from Sainte Cellier in the UK who stock Marissa Zappas’ perfumes on this side of the pond (Europe). The Pink Bedroom’s innocent side reminded me of my friend’s sister’s bedrooms from my youth, those scented toys like Strawberry Short Cake and some My Little Pony’s haunted the air and later there was Lots-o’-Huggin’ Bear from Toy Story 3 which a partner owned. The Pink Bedroom hums with that nostalgic pink strawberry rose aroma, with a gentle powdery almost doll head feel, but its more elegant and grown up, while still holding onto its playful side. Moreover, it transported me back to the days of innocent kisses, flavored with fruity lip-gloss. It is within this realm that the room’s more sensual side is unveiled. Orris, with its underlying allure, adds a touch of seduction to the atmosphere, while cassis purrs like a feline marking its territory off in the distance. An untamed wildness haunts air, all encapsulated within this ethereal pink haze of nostalgia and longing. Really beautiful work, I want to smell more from Marissa Zappas in 2024! @marissazappas

Miskeo Fueille (Marie-Pierre Blanchette): Fueille, another green perfume, brings you on this cyclical adventure that has your nose chasing the tail of one note as it leads on to the next, like mimicking the life of plants as they bloom and fade. Powdery mimosa and linden blossom bring out this lightly honeyed aromatic yellow floral haze, chamomile works as a beautiful counterpoint with a sharper spiced greenness and then slowly shift into this emerald green, almost a neon metallic shimmer as some of the more herbal musky green notes of echo back from the opening, like natures has faded and started to grow back again. For me this captures the scent of the spring and late summer where the greens are in full bloom as sun light dances through them. Miskeo was launched in 2022 by perfumer Marie-Pierre Blanchette based in Berlin; I’m also a big fan of Pistil and Épices from the first launch. @miskeoparfums

Nasomatto Sadonaso (Alessandro Gualtieri: I had the pleasure of meeting Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto recently at the wonderful Parfumarija’s tenth birthday here in Dublin. Sadonaso lived up to its name that night, I can’t tell you more, but you can imagine… Sadonaso is an opulent elixir brimming with sensual stimulants that will ensure you remain wide awake, reveling in the exquisite sensation of caressed, velvety skin, as the experience unfolds into a lusciously creamy and silky affair, transcending boundires well into the nest day. Delicate wisps of blonde tobacco rise from a melody of stone fruits, warmed by roasted tobacco leaves. The inclusion of tonka bean further enhances this delicious sensation, casting a glow akin to the blushing skin. Sandalwood oozes a fleshy feel too, almost as if you’re sitting naked, over indulging in cigarettes, coffee and a tasty gourmand pastry. Darker ambers start to feel incense like as the tobacco burns, a gentle labdanum char and purr is darkly sweet, with vanilla giving you more woody fun. Sadonaso is all about sensual desire and fantasy and is packed full of delicious gourmand facets. I think of it as a gourmand Tonkin musk, it conjures that dark sweet intensity and richness using tonka bean, sandalwood with delicious musks and ambers. Seductive stuff indeed.  @nasomatto

Nez 1+1 Adorem (Fabric Pellegrin x Akrame Benallal: I really love the 1+1 series of perfumes from Nez, a perfumer collaborates with an artist, designer or chef Akrame Benallal and perfumer Fabric Pellegrin in the case, to create a perfume. There’s an expanded article in the corresponding issue of Nez explaining the concept and conversation in the creation of the scent. Leaving all their concepts behind, sorry, for me Adorem is the scent of Season 2 of Fleabag. Its the combination of delicious dark sensual velvety chocolate and smouldering charred incense that makes me think of her relationship with the sexy priest, Adorem is definitely more than a little sacrilegious. Patchouli brings out a different facet in the cacao as you get a lot more wood, making it feel like a warm embrace as this velvety darkness wraps itself around cedar, teasing out more powdery nuances from the wood. That a dark incense char of friction slowly becomes clearer late in the dry down, making the sweeter velvet chocolate facets shine. *Knowing look to camera. @nezlarevue @fabnose @akrame_benallal @firmenichefine @auparfum

OHTOP I Hate Rose (Amelie Bourgeois): Well, I don’t, she was my favourite Golden Girl along with Sophia, but OHTOP’s I Hate Rose is definitely more Blanche Devereaux in her prime, but if she was in the current day. I Hate Rose turns on and opens up like a beaming bright neon light that shimmers with a fruity rose not a rose light. As the scent develops, you’ll notice the tangy sweetness of rhubarb giving way to more floral notes of fresh citrus rose, creating a delightful blend of flavors that’s both tart and sweet. With its clever mix of green pepper stems and “rose” notes, this scent feels almost hyper-real, with ruby-like hues that shimmer with raspberry and rhubarb tones. I Hate Rose feels like a 4D rendered rose from the future. Beautiful work from perfumer Amelie Bourgeois and creative director, Romeo Oh. OHTOP is one to watch, this year they launched their line expanding from beauty into perfume and are remaking history, while scenting the future. @ohtop_offical @ame_lie_bourgeois

Phoenicia Deep Musc (David Falsberg): I’m a huge fan of what perfumer and olfactive artist David Falsberg (and former ÇaFleureBon contributor) is creating in Phoenicia, he’s my best worst kept secret who makes stunning small batch perfumes with equally stunning materials, especially if you’re into ouds and great sandalwoods. Deep Musc is no exception; this is very clever perfumery as each note mimics that furry animalic feel of deer musk, but in a fresh way. The opulent aroma of rich cedar and creamy sandalwood is amplified, creating a sensory experience that is truly beautiful. The sandalwood purrs with a stunning aroma, with a sourness that perfectly complements the Assam oud’s deep, rich aged woods. A dark ginger creaminess lingers, teasing out whispers of stone fruits and an intoxicating rich sweetness. This luxurious combination transports you to a forest where the scent of freshly cut wood mingles with the intense rich powder, and the air is thick with the scent of wildness. A pinch of civet adds a velvety texture to the woody furs, bringing out subtle floral facets that evoke the image of an animal brushing past, leaving its scent on your coat. It’s like wearing an expensive item of clothing that envelops you in a world of luxury and natural indulgence. @Phoenicia_perfumes

Roberto Greco Rauque (Christopher Sheldrake x Roberto Greco): Roberto Greco’s fragrances are a captivating fusion of art, design, and scent. Collaborating with master perfumer Christopher Sheldrake they created ‘Rauque – L’Objet parfumant’, a sensory experience that expands his photographic series giving it a new sensory element. Rauque from French translates to Hoarse, but I think its also a play on words as this feels like a lost vintage green dusty leather horse ridding perfume, the kind that’s oozes a wild refinement, its a daring dirty elegance, an out of focus memory of fever dream of carnal desire on top of some heaving beasts. Earthy mushrooms rub up against delicious florals, with sweet resins and dirty leathers. There’s no space to get fully into this bit of perfume magic, so go read my thoughts from last month. As of this moment it’s my Top Perfume of Year and definitely best bottle hands down. @roberto___greco  @christopher.sheldrake

Rubini Odenaturae (Cristiano Canali): I’m always excited to smell a new release from Rubini, they push boundaries, giving you wearable yet avant-garde perfumes. Everything down to the bespoke packing feels beautifully considered while Cristiano Canali sketch’s out these unique scent adventures for you. 2023 felt like a return to green perfumes and Odenaturae does it beautifully, it takes you on a wild ride that morphs and changes, keeping you on your toes, felling like a hot summers day laying out in nature, almost baking the earth, making a dry smoky aroma rise up, one that’s filled with sweet with gentle fruity green aromas. Green apple spiced with a soft candied immortelle mixed with delicate florals undertones that gently soften the smoky green chamomile. Odenaturae is beautifully abstract, full of lush greens, sweet and spicy herbs, then slowly breathes out a cool powdery musky haze that washes over you, like lying on the grass with your eyes closed experiencing all the complex natural aromas swirl around you, feeling fresh and alive. @rubini_profumi

Top Ten Perfumes of 2023 J’s Honourable Mentions

DSH Perfumes Bacchanal (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz): OK these honourable mentions are really just a continuation of my top list, because I can never pick just 10…Dawn’s live perfume sketching on Instagram is always a joy to watch. With Bacchanal you could sniff along with her live composing if your ordered one of limited-edition material kits, which of course I did. Bacchanal is classic chypre opulence, full of delicious fruits and wines, with the scent of harvested hay wafting from the barn as sensual florals get down and earthy with carnal pleasure.  A stunning oakmoss heavy chypre and another you will be hearing about later from me. @dshperfumes

Parfums Dusita Rosarine (Pissara Umavijani): Ms. Umavijani made a delicious new rose bloom this year, full of sweetness and a little mystery. Her work with florals is always stunning. Rosarine is like sitting in a rose garden lost in thought, letting the sweet soft musks swirl around you like lines poetry. For me it felt like a companion to the stunning Montri from 2022, almost like a conversation between father and daughter in scent. @parfumsdusita

Puente Iris Doux (Eliam Puente):  Eliam Puente does magic with florals, Medusa is one of my favourite jasmines so I was very excited when he launched his iris. Iris Doux smells luxurious, silky and sensual with a seductive white floral bouquet that whispers of desire. There’s a soft yet thick feel to the flowers giving a plushness that’s quietly screams of elegance. Delicious and sensual, it softens into this clean musky iris with a wink in its eye. I need to try his Eau de Fougere before it goes too…  @puente_perfumes

Ricardo Ramos Perfumes de Autor Devi (Jorge Lee and Ricardo Ramos): Devi exudes confidence with its beautiful dried fruits and cool dry Indian spices playing off wild green jasmine and a softly sensual powdery iris, letting a deep leathery oud fill out the base. It feels rich and expensive in the way money can’t buy. It’s bold and beautiful, yet is full of gravity and grace. @RicardoRamosPerfumesdeAutor

Top Ten Perfumes of 2023 J’s Best New House: Artimique

Parfums Artimique was another discovery through Sainte Cellier; a set of sample arrived in an order containing a trio of distinct and beautiful perfumes. Shower & Smoke, Jasmine Gyokuro, and Coconut Blanket created by perfumer Cristiano Canali. Artimique is a new house started by Sara Marzocchini who is the creator and creative director, using her background in chemistry and the love of the art of perfume, she combines them here to make Artimique (art + chimique). It’s a beautiful trio of unique yet easy to wear perfumes, each feeling like a different mood to be sprayed on over Shower & Smoke: Clean aromatics fresh out of the shower yet still wearing the sexy smoky boozy odour of the night before. Clean with dirty thoughts and a sexy allure.

Jasmine Gyokuro: A beautiful pear note & soft matcha tea facets that bring out some beautiful nuances of jasmine you don’t usually get to see or rather smell, this a summer time jasmine that oozes Kawaii energy. The hot girl summer you need.

Coconut Blanket: This is a coconut that doesn’t leave you smelling like sunscreen. Soft minty pops in the opening take you on a different summers journey leaving you in a soft haze of creamy floral coconut. your skin. @parfums_artimique

Much love and thank you for reading. Senior Contributor, J @wearescentient

Before we get to the Top Ten Perfumes of 2023 Giveaways, please join us in wishing J Wearescentient a Happy Birthday 12/26/2023.

Thanks to the generosity of Francesca Bianchi Perfumes we have a 30 ml of Byzantine Amber for one registered reader in the EU or USA.

Grazie Mille to Sara Marzocchini for a sample set of Parfums Artimique for one registered reader in the EU or USA.

Please leave a QUALITY comment with your thoughts on Nicoleta’s’ and J’s selections, where you live and which you would like to win. You must be a registered reader. Draw closes December 30, 2023

Please check the giveaways from Ermano and Michelyn Part 1 and 2 (which include  Roberto Greco Rauque if you live in the EU, Meo Fusciuni Viole Nere, Matière Premiere, Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul USA and Abel Black Anise) and Part 3: Ida and Lauryn’s Top Ten Perfumes of 2023 choices which includes draws for Azman Risk,  Angelos Creations Olfactives Karikia and Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19:0.1.Tomorrow join Karl and Michael for their top ten perfumes of 2023

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