Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 Danu (left) and Rachel (right)

Now that you have heard from Ermano and me, (our best fragrances of 2023 here) and (The  Top 10 Perfumes 2023 here), Ida and Lauryn,  J WeareScentient  and Nicoleta, and Karl and Michael we continue our Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 overviews today with Contributor Danu Seith-Fyr who lives France and Sr. Contributor Rachel K. Ng who resides in the Midwest, USA.  I paired them as Danu began her career as an Organic Winemaker in New Zealand and Rachel was a Sommelier at Charlie Trotter’s (3 Michelin Star restaurant). Their selections have no overlaps. Now it’s time to reveal their respective Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Top 10 Perfumes of 2023

2023 has been quite a rollercoaster ride, full of the most intense curves both personally and professionally. An exciting year in perfume with so many new releases that my task of narrowing it down to 10 plus one and 5 honorable mentions is gargantuan, in an arena we have seen grow and develop over the last 8 years beyond our wildest imaginings. I continue to hold fast to my ever-shrinking ground of writing and imagery that is not AI constructed, I have vast trepidations, for I believe in the human endeavor to create, that has its origins in soul nature, which takes time, effort and creative thinking, I also believe we will return to the classic forms eventually as all in life is cyclic.  So, a Fuddy duddy I will continue to be. I am fortunate in my life to live in Europe and to have a life that enables me to attend many of the perfume fairs and events, this year I attended 3 of the major events, Esxence (ÇaFleureBon has been a media partner since 2010), Pitti Fragranze and Cannes, as well as lesser-known events. A few trends that are clearly emerging are the upsurge in interest in artisanal perfumery, it is phenomenal. Other trends that really piqued my curiosity and merited my admiration was the creation of perfumes that really exceeded all my preconceptions, certain brands and perfumers exhibited a daring approach and in doing so, reached out to create something of great note.

I am excited by the turning of the year as 2024 promises to be even more spectacular. Difficult tasks must be undertaken so here is my list of Top 10 Perfumes(plus 1) of 2023 and 5 honorable mentions, in no ranking or order and by no means exhaustive.

 Top 10 Perfumes plus one 2023 collage by Olya Bar©

Extra Virgo Oracle ( HH Prince Alex Postiglione of Limbin and Michele Marin). Extra Virgo is a perfume house that has truly touched me, Oracle is the new release and is a libation for the devotee, a perfumed intonation of communion, Tuscan citrus and intoxicating herbals drift under your skin on layered veils of incense, curling languidly skywards. The invitation to voyage within, a call to listen with all other senses, to read between the lines, to touch between the notes and hear the whispers between breaths. Invoke at Will. @extra_virgo @marin_infragrantiparfumeur

Meo Fusciuni Viole Nere (Guiseppe Imprezzabile) a magnificent interpretation of violet, a cached aspect of her we never before imagined, a seductive flower discovered in the darkened dusty corners of an ancient chest and revived with a breath of forest airs. In her earthly shrouds she emerges brightly innocent and piercing in verdancy, perfume lifting into damp undergrowth. Here and there like flitting spectres, we catch a glimpse, in periphery of fee, elusive and mildly dangerous, earth bound and yet free to take wing. Violet is secretive here, her delicate face hiding darker and more edgy aspects, wildly erotic. Enticing and timeless, one to wear, drawing the threads of time together. @meofusciuni_parfums

Thomas de Monaco  Fuego Futuro (Maurus Bachmann) a beckoning to adventure, an invitation of the unknown, an elemental wilderness under a heated sky. Solar infused herbals are swayed in a simple rhythm, bare feet doused in twilight, dare to leave a trace on pristine sands. Walking in knee length meadows bleached under bluest skies, the scent of glorious relaxation. Warmed airs carry resins and smoked woods to linger in my hair and the suns heat leaves traces on my skin, the days warmth resting on my body as night falls, a tangible effortless summers day encapsulated, sun, earth fire and sea. @thomasdemonaco

Cherigan Paris Bleu Imperiale Limited Edition: this was a long-awaited revival for me, a homage to the original release by Cherigan Paris in 1945, this version is given a modern slant yet still holds all its classic structure in place, like a beautiful woman all the classical elements of beauty remain in place regardless of age.  A discrete elegance yet completely up to date, this is a historical piece and a jewel in the annals of perfumery. A Chypre-Floral that exudes style from every pore, effortless Parisian chic which feels so timeless. Its limited-edition cut-glass bottle just add to its understated glamour. Think classical perfumery with an urban sophistication. @cheriganparis

Abel  Black Anise (Isaac Sinclair): I am naturally drawn to those perfumes that seem effortless and stay true to nature, Abel produces consistently. Black Anise was a revelation, an herbal infusion that turns your idea of Anise on its head, here is a seductive and alluring bewitchment that leaves you gasping for breath. Seductive and alluring the combination of blackcurrant and cacao is an eroticism unapparelled, that moment of union unsolicited in a momentary glance, a lifetimes touch in an instant. Enveloping and addictive, Black Anise leaves you wanting more. #IsaacSinclair @abelfragrance

Azman Perfumes  Risk (Antonio Gardoni): How could I not include this daring and evocative composition in my Top 10, I am sure many others will do the same. Risk took our perceptions of Oud and grabbing us by the wrist took us on a whirlwind adventure where all manner of unseen vistas opened in front of us. Facets revealed within this masterly blending of six ouds, previously unknown, shocking and surprising. The supporting cast allowed oud to escape its dirtier past and revel in heights of floral and waxy delight, I am constantly surprised by this perfume, it is a work of brave genius. @azman_perfumes  @bogue_profumo

Rubini Odenaturae (Cristiano Canali): I had the privilege of smelling Odenaturae in its developmental stages and was struck by its sun infused essence melded with a surprising verdancy. In its released version these are still there, a sunlit Elysium, bright and green with shafts of bucolic pastures and citrus, luminous light through a canopy of green. Elysium fields of glorious golden hues and ripened meadows, herbals gifted strength by the heat. Familiar and feeling at home again, here is the reminder of our true place. A summer’s romp in natures lap, the scent of what we used to live daily, that harmony and union with nature in all her facets.  @rubini_profumi

Parfumeurs du Monde Albedo (Stephane Piquart): Always fascinated when I meet with Stephane and have the opportunity to smell all his incredible raw materials, components he sources as ‘Le Sourceur’, he is an explorer of the olfactive. Albedo is his creation, based on a journey from darkness to light and incorporating the work of the Alchemist, the whitening or purification, it turns the olfactory pyramid on its head. An intriguing composition containing resources from his portfolio, curiosities like Fire Tree, Bushmans Candle, Hyraceum and little used Cosmos. Shadows and smoke lifting in a dewy morning haze to finally reveal an illumination. A unique adventure in perfume. @parfumeurs_du_monde  @le_sourceur

Jorum Studio Spiritcask (Euan McCall): A truly delicious and mouthwatering concoction of spirits, past and present, one of the best boozy, vanillic and gourmand infused perfumes I have ever smelt. It rolls over you like the warmth that seeps into your bones after a good dram of single malt.  Spectres rise and fall in its imbibing, comforting and mildly haunted, it entices and draws you close with sumptuous cacao, coffee and caramel all swathed in high quality distillations of malt and wild dashes of rum and cognac. As a winemaker I know all too well the whispered tales that a barrel yields once its contents have departed, wood holds many stories, come closer to the fireside, imbibe a little and let us begin, maybe a tale of good fortune or one of a more ghostly nature. @jorumstudio

Iconofly Personne (Alexandre Isaie Helwani): I am a great admirer of former contributor and perfumer Alexandre’s work for it is meticulous and well researched with his inquiring mind and curious nose. Personne, a work that recreates in a perfume the voyages of Homer in The Odyssey and incorporating as many as possible the plants mentioned. It is a rare glimpse into antiquity and it caught my classical imagination. Whiffs of sea drifted plants clinging to cliffs, deeply aromatic Mediterranean herbs captured at the sun’s zenith.  Ancient zephyr’s carrying the enticement of approaching lands, infused with all the sum of its parts, the people undertaking such a vast unknown, intrepid and confident, this is a rare glimpse into a mythology, given life as if the God’s themselves had breathed into it. Alexandre’s talent was gifted a fair wind and a following sea, I eagerly await M. Helwani’s next adventure. @iconofly @theperfumechronicles

Kajal Perfumes Kajal IV (Kevin Mathys). Heated, seductive exoticism, luxurious melding of Middle Eastern culture and gastronomy. I am always curious regarding the creations that issue from Kajal, they are rich and opulent expressions written within grand voyages reminiscent of ‘The Grand Tour’ of another age. Here, it seems that we are held for the very first time, with wide open senses within the view of a vast terrain, a palpable silence of vast-stretched sands. Zephyrs carrying sweet intonings of dates and palm flowers. Embraced by the symbolism of the number 4, it is a completeness of self, the traveller’s instinct to stay in each moment and imbibe fully, departing from the weighted accumulation of past experiences. It embodies, effortlessly the immense awe of finding oneself in a never-ending landscape where the light is different, the heat warms the soul and the scents, unfamiliar rise to welcome us.  With its rich combination of leather, musk and woods at the base it is the perfect travelling companion for the adventurous. @kajalperfumes @kevin.mathys.perfumer (Michelyn’s 2023 Rising Star)

 Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 Honourable Mentions in no particular order:

Manos Gerakinis Parfums – SEΛENE in Greek and Selene in English (Christina Koutsoudaki) is an ethereal and night bound floral of great delicacy. Disclaimer – I was involved, courtesy of Manos in the evaluation and inspiration of the name for this perfume. @manosgerakinisparfums @christinakoutsoudaki

Filippo Sorcinelli – Haec Dies (Filippo Sorcinelli): A profound, timeless murmuring of deep emotion, revelatory and tender, full of hope and faith. @filippo_sorcinelli

Francesca Bianchi Perfumes  Byzantine Amber ( Francesca Bianchi) is a rich and intricate tapestry of voluptuous proportions, interwoven decadence with a touch of the Baroque.  @francesca_bianchi_perfumes

Der Duft In Flagranti (Antonio Alessandria ): A floral of distinctive exclusivity, obsessively decadent and wildly addictive, some things cannot be refused. @der_duft @antonio_alessandria_parfums

Calaj Perfumes Delizia Oscura (Flavius Cajal) This one took me completely by surprise at Pitti Fragranze and it has remained with me ever since. The most incredible gourmand, laced in sumptuous dark chocolate and coffee, so good that devouring one’s wrist becomes an option. Violet emerges as if from humid earth. So, so addictive, mouthwatering in the extreme. @calajperfume

Meo Fusciuni

Top 10 Perfumes of 2023: Best Perfumer of the Year Guiseppe Imprezzabile (Meo Fusciuni ) A tribute that I can trace back to 2016 when on my first trip to Florence and my first Pitti Fragranze, I happened to pass by an interesting boutique opposite Dante’s house and purchased ‘Luce’,  fell in love and deep admiration. Giuseppe, with the love and support of Federica produces deeply profound and unique perfumes, each one of his collections I have loved and always I am filled with his genuine transmission in each release. His perfumes contain his soul, his life, his emotions, they are a clear glimpse into his personal experience and transcend from mere olfactory works to something of a higher nature, inspired by inner musings and his love for nature. From an ode to his beloved in Encore du Temps to voyages that inspired him in Varanasi and Sogni to the most recent darkly innocent beauty of Viole Nere.  He is a quiet and humble man of genius, a union of modern alchemist, poet and ancient soul. I am grateful for all the beauty, the truth of his creations and the enduring glow of friendship. @meofusciuni_parfums

–Danu Seith-Fyr, Contributor

2023 has been an invigorating and exciting year for independent and artisanal fragrances. As science delves further into the neurobiology of olfaction, we are discovering more about the epistemology of scent and expanding the very boundaries of fragrance art. The perfumes that most drew my attention this year are oriented by an aesthetics of post-modern deconstruction; fragrances that, in some manner, deconstruct pe-existing forms and reimagine them in a way that fractures categorization. The Top 10 perfumes of 2023 has greatly encouraged my hope in the future of perfumery with informed efforts to protect the perfumer’s palette and continued commitment to originality represented by the Perfumery Code of Ethics (many adherents’ work you will see on my best-of list). I look forward to seeing what’s next. The fragrances that most excited both mind and body, this year:

 Top 10 Perfumes 2023 collage by Olya Bar©

 

Stora Skuggan Hexensalbe (Anna Barkne) bewitches our beloved vocabulary of green scents, and through some modern alchemy, creates an exciting perfume elixir. The fragrance is a reconstruction of the scent of a hallucinogenic flying ointment said to be used in the practice of European witchcraft. Sharp pinches of herbal-green wormwood bring to mind the narcotic effects of absinthe and the intoxication of vermouth. Salty Licorice layers an anisic and lightly camphoraceous complexity to this mossy masterpiece. @storaskuggan

Wit & West The Violetear (Whitney Swales) shatters the myth that iris flowers are mute and produce no scent. Most irises native to the “wild west” of the United States do produce fragrance. Violet and freesia are often reported to be the comeliest of “wild west” iris blossom scents. Whitney Swales spent two years making an extraction of bearded iris flowers through the painstaking enfleurage process. In The Violetear, the opulence of the reserve iris enfleurage rises in a rainbow of amethyst, mauves, periwinkle, and plum. This is a stunning violet candy scent with slightly earthy and musky undertones and a delicately soft talc texture. This gorgeous fragrance expands our knowledge of what is possible in perfumery. @witandwest

 Darren Alan Perfumes Jonquille (Darren Alan) plays with vintage olfactive codes to create a vivid scene. This is a yellow spring floral fragrance of Mimosa and Jonquil that records in a contemporary key. Tender new greens and golden musks surround a femme floralcy that feels like an entire world rediscovered. Much like the best post-modern fiction, Darren Alan’s work is able to deconstruct vintage tropes and grow incredibly poetic and beautiful shapes that feel entirely natural in today’s world. @darren_alan_perfumes

Rogue Perfumery Targhee Forest (Manuel Cross) known for his liquid conversations with past and present, this fragrance explores Manuel Cross’s skills as a cartographer. With Targhee Forest we are presented with an ecosystem translated into the bottle. This is the special moment when morning sun warms the resinous bark of noble pines in the Targhee Forest. Due to perfumer Manuel Cross’s accomplished use of materials, we are able to experience nature’s breath and living pulse through the simulacre. A rare accomplishment indeed. @rogue.perfumery

Call Me by Diane St. Clair for American Perfumer guides us as evening unravels into its deepest shadows. We find a soft, animalic leathery musk, well-turned with no rough edges. From the golden elation of autumn leaves to the softest warmth of musky skin, Call Me reminds us how it feels when autumn light drops from the very heights of the sky to embrace our skin. This fragrance is as fine-tuned and reverent as the divine tintinnabula of Arvo Pärt. @stclairscents @american.perfumer

Anjali Under the Mango Tree (Anjali Vandemark) creates healing through scent. Blue chamomile essential oil and lavender essential oil offer herbaceous diffusion around the layered heart of wild rose and rose water. Base notes of fir balsam, pine wood, and hay recall the dry and healing air of mountain retreats. The mango skin note develops slowly into a ripe mango fruit that blends effortlessly into the protective canopied environment created by Anjali’s memories of playing under the mango trees of her youth. Wearing this fragrance has given me great mental and emotional peace and healing, something I wish for everyone this year and next. @anjali_perfumes

Parfums Quartana Forest of the Golden Dream (Céline Barel) walks us to an enchanted forest, where pine needles crunch underfoot, crisp evergreens hang in the air, and a golden solar radiance follows from the opening. Olibanum creates a bridge from the spicy materials of the top with its lemony, spicy, and terpenic qualities. Siberian Pine Needle, Fir Balsam, and Fir Balsam Resin work together to embody a sublime sense of place. Woody and coolly aromatic, we are transported to a sacred forest of ancient wellness. Joseph Quartana’s gifted mind creates the most fascinating and intricate landscapes of meaning, myth, and olfactory sensations in his work with perfumers. His oeuvre is a must-try. @parfums_quartana @celinebarelperfumery

Amouage Lineage (Karine Vinchon-Spehner) creates a vibrant energy with the most meditative calm. If I were to guess what nirvana could feel like, something close to the solar, mineral, balsamic, and resinous-incense magic of this fragrance comes to mind. Hot sand, hot rocks, and a mineral ocean feel immortal in this lovely and unique fragrance. Amouage is sustaining and reimagining one of the most important olfactive legacies in the world. From their work with frankincense to reimagining attars and mukhallats, Renaud Salmon and the Amouage team are definitely worth getting to know.  @amouageofficial @karinevinchonperfumer

Le Jardin Retrouvé Osmanthe Liu Yuan (Maxence Moutte) is quickly becoming one of my favourite fragrances for life. Osmanthus has never smelled so joyful and satisfied on my skin. Powdery leather with apricots and floral accords builds on their mid-century house traditions with such interesting and exquisite expressions. Fragrance houses that have such a careful eye to their own past of quality and materials are a joy to find and experience. Le Jardin Retrouvé is one not to be missed. @lejardinretrouve @maxencemoutte

DSH Perfumes x ÇaFleureBon Disco Queen (Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz) plays with the best of the 1970s and 1980s in a cool and sexy pastiche. This is a dazzling bottle that reanimates the best cultural memories for perfume lovers around the world. Even if one did not live through these decades, the burst of sparkling aldehydic shimmer from the bottle gives all the glam necessary. White florals with an intoxicating Bellini accord make this fragrance perfect for New Year’s Eve and any celebration you have in mind. Disco Queen was created together with Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen to celebrate the 13^th Anniversary of ÇaFleureBon! @dshperfumes

Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 Honorable Mentions

 For the Scent of It Grand Soleil (Michael Schrammel) a gorgeous solar fragrance whose use of frankincense with a summer floral bouquet adds the most transcendental lift to a happy summer scent.  @forthescentofit

Areej le Doré History of Indonesian Oud (Russian Adam) is one of Areej Le Doré’s latest releases in their new line of sprayable ouds. This scent is refined and delicate in its invitation to experience one of the world’s greatest olfactive materials, perfect for quality introduction to the world oud. @areejladorearabic

Eris Parfums Delta of Venus (Antoine Lie) is simply the best guava accord I’ve experienced in perfumery. Lush and intoxicating, Barbara Herman’s continues to release exciting fragrances that stimulate the mind and senses. @erisparfums @antoinelieolfactiveexperience

Les Indémodables Patchouli Noisette (Antoine Lie) is an accomplishment of everything I want to see more of in fragrance, especially ethical practices in materials and supply chain. At the end, we are given a gorgeous and innovative perfume bringing new life to a classic material (patchouli) and introducing the first commercial scent to use hazelnut.@les_indemodabeles_officel @antoinelieolfactiveexperience

Roberto Greco Rauque (Christopher Sheldrake) is art of the highest order. My personal favorite fragrances consider how materials can interact with our deepest human selves (perfume is special because it is the art that is the most physically intimate – we wear it on our bodies). Rauque is a sophisticated and vibrant example of perfumery as wearable art.  @roberto___greco  @christopher.sheldrake

Amber Jobin of Aether Art Perfume

Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 Best Perfumer Of The Year: Amber Jobin Of Aether Arts Perfumes who is the creator of several of my favorite scents of this year, including Midnight Sugar, Scylla, Kittens & Cream, and cyBorg Queen. She is also the artist who has created many of the bottles that first opened my eyes to the realization that fragrance could also be art, rather than simply commodity, for example Art and Olfaction winners Mayan Chocolate in 2022 and John Frum in 2014. Amber’s brilliant creations are full of deepest humanity, expansive curiosity, and richest feeling. I am intellectually (and physically) moved by her expansive world of olfactive wonder and beauty. Thank you, Amber, for always trusting your creative light, pushing boundaries, and making beautiful wearable art! @aetherartsperfume

–Rachel K. Ng, Senior Contributor

For Danu and Rachel’s Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 Giveaway

Thanks to the generosity of Jana at Fragrance Vault we have a 30 ml bottle of Stora Skuggan Hexensalbe for one registered reader in the USA ONLY @fragrance.vault

We are grateful to KAJAL Perfumes we have a 100ml bottle of Kajal IV for one registered reader in the USA, UK or EU @Kajalperfumes

Please leave a QUALITY comment with your thoughts on Danu’s and Rachel’s selections of Top 10 Perfumes of 2023. where you live and which you would like to win. You must be a registered reader. Draw closes January 1, 2024

Please check the giveaways from Ermano and Michelyn Part 1 and 2 (which include  Roberto Greco Rauque if you live in the EU, Meo Fusciuni Viole Nere, Matière Premiere, Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul USA and Abel Black Anise) and Part 3: Ida and Lauryn’s Top 10 Perfumes of 2023 choices which includes draws for Azman Risk,  Angelos Creations Olfactives Karikia and Olivier Durbano White Stone Prophecy 19:0.1.Part 4 includes giveaways from Nicoleta and J Wearescentient picks Francesca Bianchi Byzantine Amber and Parfums Artimique and Karl and Michael’s Part 5 with Electimuss London Vanilla Edesia and Gallagher Fragrances Purple Powder. Join us tomorrow with part 7 brought to us by Contributor Sandi Lundberg and Senior Contributor and NYC Brand Ambassador Hernando Courtright (and MVPP).

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