Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III – Escape Image by Louise Mertens.
“Amouage reveals the third chapter of its Odyssey Collection, a quartet of new perfumes portraying Oman’s greatest treasure, Royal Frankincense, in all its complexity. Distilling this propitious moment in time and breathing new life into its iconic legacy, the new Escape chapter of the Odyssey Collection by Amouage adds four new Eaux De Parfum to its compendium of iconic scents. Each creation laces Royal Frankincense with a broad palette of rare ingredients in a deft display of tradition-steeped modernity. By exploring introspective themes, Lineage, Search, Guidance and Purpose speak of escapism, the strive to grow, the search for a new path and the finding of a new life – transformation at last.” Amouage Press Release, 2023.
When I read the overview of the Amouage Odyssey Collection – Chapter III: Escape, one thought kept repeating over and over in my mind. Our world. This world, full of political unrest and an unpredictable climate makes for uncertain times. People and communities are also out of synchronicity leading to apprehensive spirits. In such times some of us outwardly explore new climates and also self-reflection. Amouage Creative Director Renaud Salmon has struck upon the theme of Escape as a means of introspection and carving out new visions for the brand’s newest collection. An odyssey is essentially a journey, and a journey can take many forms be it physical, emotional or intellectual, these all tie into our own personal voyage of life, I guess it is a central theme of being human. On experiencing Amouage Odyssey Collection, Chapter III I was instantly aware of the core ingredient of each perfume of the quartet, (frankincense) and how it has been utilised in different ways. So, allow me to convey to you dear readers the impression of each new creation in the collection.
Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III Lineage collage by Karl photos from Amouage.
Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III Lineage by Karine Vinchon-Spehner (Robertet) is both meditative and vibrant and this dichotomy did take time to sink into my senses. It presents a duality of freshness and warmth and is slow perfumery done very interestingly. Lineage is a perfume I needed some experience with to unpick and understand. Initially I found it to have an almost spearmint effect on my skin. However, the more time I spent with it the more I began to enjoy the solar, mineral and balsamic facets it contained. Both Renaud Salmon and Karine Spehner Vinchon wanted to convey a clear olfactory message but also bring a surprise to us. I believe they achieved their modus operandi. There is a vivid energetic aspect to Lineage, which comes through the combination of ginger, schinus molle and saffron. The effect is fizzy and fresh (similar to a coastal sea foam) via the use of these metallic spices, and they mingle with the different qualities of incense as the wearing develops. Initially I pick up on the lemony aspects and slowly but surely the more resinous qualities come to the fore and the perfume seems to heat up as it progresses. The heart is abundant with solar energy where frankincense essence, fenugreek and myrrh give an imprint of golden sand, whilst the base is all about resins and an amber similar to a sunset.
Top Notes: Ginger, Sichuan Pepper, Schinus Molle, Saffron;Heart Notes: Frankincense Essence, Fenugreek, Myrrh Essence; Base Notes: Frankincense Resinoid, Myrrh Resinoid, Vetiver, Patchouli, Benzoin, Labdanum.
Concentration: Eau De Parfum, containing 25% of pure oils.
Aging: Maturation: 3 weeks | Maceration: 3 weeks
Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III Search Collage by Karl photos from Amouage.
Amouage Odyssey Chapter III Search by Alexis Grugeon (Firmenich), on the other hand was instantly recognisable as a strong citrus / smoky and wood scent, which I was immediately attracted to for its forthright and unapologetic use of zesty, acidic lemon and lime teamed with mandarin which effectively compliments the use of Hojari frankincense and cade. The lemon has a slightly aged leathery and dry component to it, and I found this to work in harmony with the elemi and pepper to bring a unique vibrancy and sturdiness to the composition. This combination was to reflect the Persian black lemons (Limoo Omani) with their thick skins, which dry out in the sun they have a musky tang, which is most likely why the lime and mandarin was used in the top of Search. The transition of Search is a continuation into the deeper smoke and burnt facets of incense and guaiacwood. This is the first perfume I have experienced from Alexis Grugeon and I have been impressed with its commercial appeal whilst still staying true to Amouage’s fundamental concept of quality, storytelling and impact.
Top Notes: Lemon, Lime, Mandarin; Heart Notes: Hojari Frankincense, Black Pepper, Elemi; Base Notes: Cade, Vetiver, Guaiacwood.
Concentration: Eau De Parfum, containing 25% of pure oils.
Aging: Maturation: 4 weeks | Maceration: 4 weeks.
Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III Guidance Collage by Karl photos from Amouage.
Amouage Odyssey Collection Guidance by Quentin Bisch (Givaudan) immediately presented me with an ‘Aha’ moment. Bisch has a unique grasp for creating intensely feminine perfumes, which have an underlying sultriness that he seems to master. It has the original Amouage triad of Rose / Frankincense / Ambergris and as such is a homage to the traditions of the brand. However, it bursts forth as a cloud of fruity textures, a fleshy vibration and a silky soft tonality. It creates a dialogue of searching for woman of strength, beauty and fragility. Guidance as the name suggests is a sojourn to this allusive lady, from ivory towers to lush gardens, to her boudoir of jasmine screens. One significant ingredient, which amplifies the smooth facets of the aroma is hazelnut cream. This adds a layer of complexity which acts as the link between the initial allure of pear in Guidance and the intense base of Akigalawood, Ambergris and Vanilla.
Top Notes: Pear, Frankincense, Hazelnut; Heart Notes: Saffron, Rose, Sambac Jasmine, Osmanthus; Base Notes: Cistus, Sandalwood, Akigalawood, Ambergris, Vanilla.
Concentration: Eau De Parfum, containing 25% of pure oils.
Aging: Maturation: 3 weeks | Maceration: 1 weeks.
Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III Purpose Collage by Karl photos from Amouage.
Amouage Odyssey Collection Purpose also created by Quentin Bisch, is an expansive, chic but raw interpretation of a frankincense tree alone in the desert, its branches reaching upwards to the sky. This minimalistic image gave Bisch the straightforward formula for Purpose, a vertical idea of contrasting materials. To me it is extremely potent with moss, wood and spice. There is a clear contrast between fresh and dark aspects. Purpose opens with a bracing dynamism brought across with bergamot, pink pepper and pimento berry. The heart is a dry and smoky experience with sand vetiver, papyrus and rose colliding. The base fuses the spicy elements with the Mystikal Molecule (Burning Incense) saffron, suede and Akigalawood.
Top Notes: Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Frankincense, Pimento Berry; Heart Notes: Rose, Sand Vetiver, Sandalwood, Papyrus; Base Notes: Saffron, Suede, Mystikal, Akigalawood.
Concentration: Eau De Parfum, containing 20% of pure oils.
Aging: Maturation: 3 weeks | Maceration: 1 weeks.
Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III – Escape works on a multitude of levels from the initial concept and design through to the olfactive experience. It is worth exploring as the collection has great variety running through the overarching view of introspection and escapism. Who knows you might even link the fragrances with your past, present and future?
Disclosure we received Amouage Odyssey Collection gift boxes by the Company; opinions are Karl’s own
Karl Topham, Senior Editor
Amouage Odyssey Collection Chapter III Discovery Set 10ml x 4 Image by Karl.
Thanks to Michelyn and Karl, we have a 10 ml travel spray of a reader’s choice of Linage, Search, Guidance or Purpose from the Amouage Odyssey Collection – Chapter III: Escape collection for one to one CaFleureBon registered reader in the USA or UK. If you are not sure if you are registered, click here (you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid). To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appeals to you about Karl’s reviews, which you would choose and why and where you live. Draw closes 02/19/23.
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