Esxence Metamorphosis 2024 collage photos via Amber Jobin, Esxence and Ermano
There was so much to cover, thus Danu’s part 2 as promised.
Danu and Pissara Umavijani –Dusita Paris, Pelagos – Parfums Dusita Paris Esxence Metamorphosis 2024
Pissara Umavijani and Parfums Dusita Paris were in attendance and it is always a great pleasure to see her, a presence that is full of her cultural hospitality, warmth and generosity. The latest release from Dusita Paris was unveiled, ‘Pelagos’, suave and elegant it is evocative of an Aegean horizon, the vastness of blue, in tonalities that rouse and soothe in the same movement of sea and air. It evokes a ‘joie de vivre’, a place of exhalation and relaxation. Aquatic and vegetal with a herbal ley straight out of an island swathed in azure.
Thomas de Monaco event and Ultima Storia at Esxence Metamorphosis 2024
One of the highlight events of the fast paced four days was an evening arranged by Thomas de Monaco. Wonderful ambiance and excellent company paired with the complete collection of perfumes, all in new presentation and new formula, they are all exquisite, along with the newest addition, ‘Ultima Storia’ which is an outstanding, elegant gourmand paired with leather and orris. An impeccable collection aired in refined surroundings.
Somens Barcelona and Georgina Ripolles, Jacques Fath Encens de Copal, Danu and perfumer Jean-Christophe Herault, Jacques Fath Iris d’Fath and Encens de Copal, Isabey ‘rue de la Paix
To be introduced for the first time to Somens from Barcelona was a treat. Meeting with founder Georgina Ripolles, a third-generation artist from a family devoted to changing words into art, Georgina has chosen the path of perfumery. A vibrant and dedicated young woman whose passion shines through in her collection. At Esxence Metamorphosis 2024, Somens were showing new additions to the Legends Collection, out of the new additions, I was completely addicted to ‘Éclair’, a sumptuous gourmand, mouthwatering and decadent. So much more to explore.
My next stop on this marathon tour of the vast halls was Jacques Fath and Isabey, I am absolutely drawn to brands with a certain amount of heritage behind them, it tends to lend a maturity and depth. Jacques Fath is, of course one of them that I hold in highest regard. There is a legacy to uphold and they are doing it beautifully. A new presentation, Encens de Copal, crafted by Jean–Christophe Herault and Creative Director Rania Naim projects us out beyond the confines of the altar, the thurible and Middle Eastern connotations to an incense that is ritualistic and follows a different rhythm. It blinds sight in its luminescence and opens to higher states with Copal Blanc and mastic warmed with a hazelnut facet. Quite mesmerising. A great pleasure also to spend a few moments in interesting conversation with Jean-Christophe.
Isabey celebrates their centennial anniversary at Esxence Metamorphosis 2024
Isabey was also a necessary stop, dictated by their immense history. They will have a new release to coincide with the 100th anniversary later this year of the founding of Isabey as a perfume house, it is named Rue de la Paix, which was the address back in 1924. Modern take on an impressionist bouquet, infused with peach and tuberose. A fitting tribute to a legacy. I was honoured to receive a book detailing the history but also with pictures of all those exquisite works of art, perfume bottles, from that era.
Violette Kew- Le Jardin Retrouve Launch, Danu and Clara Feder, Maxence Moutte – Perfumer
Always an event not to be missed are the launches of Le Jardin Retrouve, hosted by the ever -welcoming Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz. Within a beautiful night time garden we were invited to immerse ourselves in our gardens within. Perfumer Maxence Moutte then presented us with the creative process and the intention of well-being within this new release. Violette Kew is an inspiring perfume which invites us to relax and find a place of contentment. Violet married with cardamom and cumin gifts us a unique perspective.
Hiram Green ‘Philtre’, Sasva ‘Bombay Gourmand’ and Goa Collection, Extra Virgo and Carnale, ‘Spirito Santo’, Dormir Al Sol Natalia Outeda – Frassai Esxence Metamorphosis 2024.
Chance to smell Hiram Green’s addictive potion, Philtre confirmed my suspicions, it is completely fascinating and weaves a thorough spell. Sriman and Sarina from Indian brand Sasva released 3 Goa inspired perfumes but I was taken by a new version of Forbidden Worlds- Bombay Gourmand. Utterly delicious. Extra Virgo were there with all their sublime collection plus a limited edition of 100 created with Carnale in Florence, Spirito Santo, which I had longed to be able to smell, it is a fluidity of light immersed in darkness and darkness in light, sacred and profane, incense draped in carnality, flesh and spirit. I may be seduced.
Creative Director Natalia Outeda from Frassai took my attention next, she has curated a highly individual and culturally intense and diverse collection, dedicated to her native land, Argentina, and now adds to this another 2, of which I can only speak of 1 for now, hush hush for the other. Dormir Al Sol composed by Irina Burlakova is precisely as it translates, sleeping in the sun, languid and softly sweeping over warmed skin, mimosa powdery soft alights on flesh, it is summer earth and gentle breezes enveloped in a soporific embrace.
Nick Gilbert and Boujee Bougies, Infleurno, Hyperion -Rubini, Andrea Rubini, Houbigant Collection Les Matières at Esxence Metamorphosis 2024
On so many of my colleagues’ recommendations and out of absolute curiosity I had to visit Boujee Bougies to see Pia Long and Nick Gilbert. A very interesting collection of candles and perfumes, Queen had me immersed with Helena Bonham Carter and her Red Queen from Tim Burton’s film, all pursed lips and brooding tantrums. The latest release caught my breath, Infleurno, inspired by the ancient myth of Persephone, it is an explosive nod to the liberation of Persephone each Springtide, returned with all that dynamism for life. Zesty and full of life.
Meeting with Alessandria from Perris Monte Carlo is always a pleasure, Shining Moon by Gianluca Perris will be featured in my writing soon. She was keen to introduce me to the latest perfume for the Houbigant Collection Les Matieres – Petales De Magnolia. A beautiful encapsulation of these delicate and velveteen blossoms, a bouquet of floral femininity.
Always intrigued when Andrea Rubini hints at new creations in the pipeline for his brand, Rubini Profumi. They are always carefully curated over time and always uniquely Rubini. The latest and upcoming release which is still in its refinement stages, created with Mane Perfumer Cristiano Canali is Hyperion, an interesting concept around the expansiveness of space and a nod to 2001- Space Odyssey. It certainly piqued my interest with its intense pepper opening. Watch this space, literally.
Parfum d’Empire, Danu and Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Un Bel Amour D’Eté.
How could I have not discovered Parfum d’Empire for so long? Esxence Metamorphosis 2024 was a spectacular introduction. The house celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2023 powered by the passionate and dynamic Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Founder, Creator and Perfumer with a devotion to the finest raw materials. Several of the collection awoke my curiosity and I was introduced to their newest release Un Bel Amour D’Ete. Perfect timing for the summer’s embrace, an ode to first love under solar caress. Do you recall that inner rush that pervaded your body with the warmth of desire, that heated flush. A stunning gardenia and magnolia heart flourishes the memory aloft. I was honoured to be received at the Parfum d’Empire studio in Paris as a guest.
J.U.S Parfums, Danu and Jean-Baptiste Roux, Francesca Dell’Oro wall of colour, Vanille 0800 and Vanille 12.00, Sentire Parfums by Nata Dyshliuk, Olfactive Pharmacy – Thymus
Jean-Baptiste Roux guided me through the collection of J.U.S Parfums, created with so many celebrated noses, more to explore certainly. I was also treated to a grand tour of Francesca Dell’Oro with the release of the first two of a new Vanilla Collection, there will be four in total, Vanille at different hours of the day. The first two are Vanille 0800 and Vanille 12.00, both very different in presentation.
Thanks to the connection with dear Sultan Pasha, I was introduced to Nata Dyshliuk, a young Ukrainian perfumer with her brand Sentire originally from Kyiv, living in London. The man, Sultan has a talent for spotting talent. At first impression her creations are very interesting, beautifully composed and warrant further attention.
Olfactive Phamacy from Koln is a booth I always stop at each Esxence, Olivier and Holger both have a background in pharmacy and their collection of perfumes with medicinal plants are perfect for someone like me who loves their aromas. The new release Thymus, perfumer Aistis Mickevicius, based on Thyme is a delight, I am also a huge admirer of Tilia, Savia and Betula, so that’s the whole collection in fact.
A unique opportunity to collide in the corridors of Esxence with founder and perfumer extraordinaire, Agnieszka of Le Frag Perfumes. I have been fascinated by her past releases, they are highly individual and voyages full of richly woven stories, Aga is a true writer in scents. Her collection took me to places unimagined, Grimmtale, Meluzyna and now Time Machine have my utmost attention.
Like A Virgin – Unplugged from Art Meets Art, Danu and Tanguy Le Baud, Baruti, new releases, Artimique, Danu and Sara Marzocchini.
I had first met with Art Meets Art founder Tanguy Le Baud in Cannes last year and had been given a sneak preview of ‘Like a Virgin Unplugged’, a beautiful orange blossom innocence paired with a decadent, flirty and carnal vanilla. Here she was in full glory at Esxence Metamorphosis 2024, finally free to reveal all to the world. A great addition to the collection and worthy of its musical namesake.
Baruti based in Amsterdam are always pulling it out of the hat in regards to new releases, three new perfumes were previewed in Esxence by Spyros Drosopoulos. One was a homage to his daughter, Laurakimou!’, Mona No Aware – a serene and delicate, Japanese inspired bouquet and my favourite, an incredible perfume, ‘Hot Cotton’, simply fascinating, imagine a crisp white linen full of heat from ironing. Unique and inspiring.
Parfums Artimique based in Venice had been on my radar and again it was such a pleasure to meet founder Sara Marzocchini, we even discovered we had a mutual friend. Here resides great authenticity and passion, a collection of beautifully crafted perfumes all by Cristiano Canali, Coconut Blanket and Jasmin Gyokuro stood out for me.
Jijide Riso and Grano at Esxence Metamorphosis 2024
Jijide caught my eye at the very last moment of Esxence Metamorphosis 2024, that final day almost closing time. I was glad I stopped to explore for a moment. A brand with Chinese roots, they presented 2 perfumes that for any lover of gourmands were instant hits. Riso by perfumer Zimo Luo and Grano by perfumer Nour Akoum. Beautiful and comforting aromas arisen from a warm, loving home, scents to envelop and nourish, I loved them both.
Nishane launch party, Alexandre Helwani, Danu with Mert Guzal of Nishane and Jakub Piotrovicz, Danu with Murat Katran of Nishane, Master Perfumer Dominque Ropion, Nishane Tuberoza X.
Last but not at all least was a fantastic launch party for the newest releases from Nishane, Nishane parties are not to be missed and are always in beautiful locations. This time, a palace in Milan. Tuberoza X – Master Perfumer Dominque Ropion with a unique lipstick note and shot through with a perfect Ylang Ylang. We were treated to an introduction by Alexandre Helwani and then a wonderful presentation by Master Perfumer Dominique Ropion Also featured that evening was a perfume by Greek perfumer for Nishane, Angelos Balamis, ‘Shinanay’, a sublime white floral of immense power and presence. Mert Guzel and Murat Katran are gracious and generous hosts always.
All in all, the high-octane days and nights of the Esxence Metamorphosis 2024 event was a wonderful, one-of-a-kind experience.
Danu Seith -Fyr, Contributor
All Photos are copyright Danu Seith-Fyr, my words are my own.
Parfum d’Empire Discovery Set courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Marc-Antoine Corticchiato of Parfum d’Empire we have a Discovery Set for a registered reader worldwide. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Danu’s report, your favorite a Parfum d’Empire fragrance you own. and where you live. Draw closes 4/10/2024
If you want your comment to count twice, please include a quote from Michelyn’s interview with Marc-Antoine Corticchiato- link here
Now that’s a wrap on our Esxence Metamorphosis 2024 coverage: Please enjoy Michelyn’s report here, Ida’s here, Lauryn’s here, Part 1 of Danu’s here, Ermano’s here
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@Art Meets Art @Parfums Dusita Paris @Thomas de Monaco @Somens Barcelona @Jacques Fath @Isabey @Le Jardin Retrouve @Hiram Green @Sasva @Extra Virgo @Frassai @Boujee Bougies @Houbigant @Rubini @J.U.S Parfums @Francesca Dell’Oro @Olfactive Pharmacy @Le Frag @Baruti @Parfums Artimique @Jijide @Nishane
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