Esxence Milano 2024 collage by Olya and Michelyn 

 Always it happens when we are not there

The tree leaps up alive into the air,

Small open parasols of Chinese green

Wave on each twig. But who has ever seen

The latch sprung, the bud as it burst?

Spring always manages to get there first.  ~ Metamorphosis, by May Sarton

Ida with Silvio Levi one of the founders of Esxence

 Every year Esxence Milano chooses a theme which informs its overall event: this year, it was entitled Metamorphosis.

One may well inquire why – so I’m sharing their statement: “Perfume is envisioned as a journey of transformation and natural evolution, starting from the raw materials shaping the fragrance and evolving over time. The olfactory experience offers the possibility of enjoying new sensory emotions, in a scenario of perpetual transformation of the surrounding environment,” ~per their official website. As we are aware, fragrance is continually undergoing change – from the latest available raw and art essences to the manner in which they are employed, and the ongoing use of AI and other platforms as tools with which to develop a very real change in how perfume is created, conceived, and perceived. I lost count after 367 exhibitors – completely understandable, as Esxence was larger than it ever has been to date: over 14,000 square meters in scope, as compared to the 8,000 of 2023.

Map of Esxence Milano 2024

The excitement was palpable at Esxence Milano 2024 even before the doors opened (Wednesday, Thursday and Friday for press, content creators, photographers, etc. – and Saturday, open to the public). A map is provided. Finding the booths/exhibitors you want to visit resembles a treasure hunt which allows the participant to sketch out their plan of engagement. There are essentially [sic] three ways to approach this event: either you a) make appointments in advance with those brands you would like to explore; b) catch as catch can; or c) rely upon relationships to provide you with ample opportunity to connect. I relied upon a convergence of these three, with success. My modus operandi is basically this: I always ask them to show me what they want me to experience. To tell me about themselves. What is it they feel passionate about? What moves them?

Bois 1920 Sandalvia and Scorzaforza at Esxence Milano 2024

Here’s the naked truth of it: I’ve never remarked upon how many really extraordinary fragrances I have discovered at one event. This year’s Esxence Milano 2024 certainly provided me with a multitude. As I expected, there were many oud-based and incense-themed scents, all manner of gourmandise, and beautiful florals. Several brands appeared to be highlighting perfumes which created a naturalistic mood: amongst these were two from the exquisite Bois 1920 Giardinomirabile collection – Sandalvia, with its tonic sage and sandalwood amidst spice, immortelle, and a wisp of incense; and Scorzaforza (yes, citrus rind!), with its lemon/mandarin/bergamot/petitgrain topnotes accompanied by mint, rose, muguet and a tender amber/musk/cedarwood. So perfectly Italian and elegant, refreshing. Following this naturalistic vein, I discovered a new company, Olfactive Pharmacy Köln. The are currently four fragrances which they offer – and I wasn’t surprised to find out that two remarkable ones, Betula (birch) and Tilia (linden) were composed by master perfumer Mark Buxton.

Frassai Dormir al Sol photo via the brand

A summer spent drowsing in an open meadow is brilliantly depicted by Frassaï’s latest scent, Dormir al Sol (To sleep in the sun) – the luscious, slightly anisic haze of mimosa and hay-like murmurings seasoned with a soupçon of brandy.

Parfum d’Empire at Esxence Milano 2024 photo courtesy of the brand

Master artisan perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (of Parfum D’Empire renown) has gifted us similar seasonal delight with his new Un Bel Amour d’Été, which can only be described as lush solar volupté in a bottle.

Sulékó Florida Vibrations via Instagram and Anna Sokolow with Ida at Esxence Milano 2024

Other fragrances which emulate/encapsulate nature: Sulékó’s first new fragrance since 2013, Florida Vibrations. It’s not what you think – far from generic, beachy scents, it depicts the fecund humidity of forest and surrounding environs which rarely come to mind when we think of Florida. Bon Parfumeur never makes such claims, but its new 304 (composed by Anne Flipo) is yet another naturalistic delight which sings of cumin, almond blossom, and cedar (not as simplistic as it appears)

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Clara Feder and Maxence Moutte Le Jardin Retrouvé at Esxence Milano 2024

Le Jardin Retrouvé’s Maxence Moutte created my favorite perfume of theirs yet: Violette Kew – a stunning and long-lasting homage to the simple violet –  except that cumin, cardamom, and sandalwood render it deliciously carnal. I’m afraid to use my little bottle for fear that I will run out before it appears on the market (it will become available at the close of May) – that’s how good it is.

Ida with Pissara Umavijani of Parfums Dusita 

Another glorious extrait is Pissara Umavijani’s brilliant Pelagos: a photorealistic aromatic, moody aquarelle of Grecian détente which Pissara experienced while she was pregnant and on holiday with her husband. I am not the biggest devotee of aquatics, but this one blew me away – as it morphs and reveals layers of gorgeous materials and their concomitant sensations. Once again, I am afraid that once I commence spraying my little flacon, I’ll want more.

 

Nicolaï Parfumeur Createur new eaux de parfums intense Saint Honore, Pavlova and Macaron Bourbon via Damien Flynn and booth Nicolaï Parfumeur Createur booth at Esxence Milano 2024 by Amber Jobin and collage by Michelyn

Gourmand fragrance in all its guises, from subtle to flagrantly unapologetic – could be found everywhere. The most striking and singular examples for me came from Nicolaï Parfumeur Createur; a sumptuous trio based upon famed confections: Saint-Honoré, with its milky almond/orange blossom notes (a puff pastry, choux pastry, and pastry cream dessert named after the patron saint of bakers!); Pavlova, a meringue-based, marshmallowy sweet redolent of passion fruit, pineapple, raspberry, and a goodly dash of rum; and Macaron Bourbon – an almondy, chewy mouthful infused with caramel, vanilla and rose (are both from Bourbon – the vanilla and rose?).

Sarah Baker Perfumes Peach’s Revenge courtesy of the brand

Sarah Baker Perfumes Peach’s Revenge (by perfumer Chris Maurice) provides a iconoclastic and charming fruity/spicy/caramellic fragrance perked up with a touch of amaretto (those almonds certainly get around, don’t they?).

Boujee Bougies Infleurno for CaFleureBon courtesy of Pia Long, (lower left). Photo of Nick  Gilbert and Pia Long, Ida with Pia Long   collage by Michelyn

Other superstars aren’t quite as easily classified; they don’t necessarily fit into one category or another. Boujee Bougies’ fabulous new Infleurno, Masque Milano’s Le Donne di Masque Collection and their latest Emerald edition, Alcove (Karine Chevallier), Christèle Jacquemin’s brilliant Celebration (I’m waiting eagerly for my sample from the perfumer, as none were available at Esxence) each merit praise.

Cristian Cavagna Bianca Forte new tuberose at Esxence 2024 via Linked In

Cristian Cavagna’s most recent tuberose, Bianca Forte, is both beautiful and easy to love; Cristiano Canali’s creation for Rubini, Hyperion – is a compellingly distinctive fragrance, with its eerie companionship between aldehydes, frankincense, and several varieties of pepper.

 

Almah Perfume’s founder and nose Jaume Magrans at Esxence Milano 204

It’s nigh impossible (and it definitely is improbable) these days that one may smell everything exhibited during Esxence – no matter how organized you may be. There were several brands which left an impression. Two of these, for me – were Almah, based in Barcelona, a father-and-son collaboration; and Binet-Papillon, a French brand which is truly creative, founded in 2007 by former Guerlain marketing director Virginie Choné. Sadly, Binet-Papillon had no samples to ponder, so I rely upon my olfactive memory – but nonetheless, I felt that their perfumes were extraordinary.

via the brand

Another line you never want to miss is Swiss brand Perfume.Sucks, with nose Andreas Wilhelm at the helm. Andreas’ latest brainchildren are two new members of his Conspiracy Line – Human and Love. If for no other reason than the fact that this perfumer marches to his own drum and is innovative, it’s important not to be biased in advance – and there is nothing false about Andreas Vilhelm (he and my husband make quite the pair!).

Thierry Bernard at Parfumeurs du Monde

In my wrap-up of Esxence Milano 2024, it would be criminal if I did not refer to Thierry Bernard of Parfumeurs du Monde and his most adventurous friend and colleague Stéphane Piquart. They are so generous about sharing their knowledge and experience that it’s awe-inspiring.

Stéphane Piquart showing me his tinctures at Esxence Milano 2024

I will continue to purchase every essence, oil, or absolute that Stéphane creates; indeed, when I meet up with other perfumers, I dredge them out from their hiding place in order to share the enlightenment. They are among the most excellent teachers I know.

Clayton Ilolahia and Ida Meister

I fret that I may have inadvertently left out several other impressive brands – but Esxence is an intense experience. I also made it a point to attend a few symposia which were offered. In particular, Clayton Ilolahia (who is Michael Edwards’ right hand man concerning Fragrances of the World, as well as an acknowledged expert in the fragrance industry and an evaluator) delivered a riveting conference concerning redefining niche, trends and insights. I couldn’t miss attending The Power of Sacred Woods given by Givaudan. If I could have divided myself incrementally, I would have been everywhere at once.

Collage of Friends and perfumers Ida Meister, Meo Fusciuni, Ulrich Lang and Miguel Matos collage by Michelyn

Esxence Milano 2024 has nearly doubled its size in only one year: it is not for the faint of heart or foot (or back), those who are uncomfortable in crowds, or very sensitive to overstimulation. It is a worthwhile experience for anyone involved in the world of fragrance or an impassioned lover of fragrance. There is always something new to discover, with which to acquaint oneself, and myriad learning opportunities. From experience, I can avow that it is best to plan quite a bit in advance – as hotels fill up in the wink of an eye. And wear stalwart footwear, my dears!

Please read Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen’s Esxence Milano 2024 report

Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

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