Hiram Green Philtre via Hiram Green Instagram
According to the precious little volume entitled The Language of Flowers (penned in August of 1913 by the anonymous F.W.L. on his golden wedding anniversary, and intended as a gift for his wife) the red carnation means “Alas for my poor heart”.
Ida’s inscription to her husband-to-be B
Scarcely a week after I met my dear husband-to-be, for Christmas of 1982, I gave him this romantic book as a keepsake. I had no idea that we would marry later that year and continue to stay married for over 40 years. We required no alchemist, nor love potion of any kind.
Art and Olfaction Award Winning perfumer Hiram Green courtesy of the perfumer via Instagram
These thoughts infiltrated my consciousness when I experienced a sample of Hiram Green’s latest natural perfume Philtre, which was kindly sent me by Indigo Perfumery – because Hiram refers to the legendary Tristan and Isolde and Queen Titania of the fairies when he speaks of alchemy and those subversive draughts which induce love. He states: “Perfumes are our modern-day love potions—potent and bewitching, with the ability to change moods instantly. This is my version. No unicorn dust or dragon’s blood, just the world’s most beautiful flowers, spices, and resins, built around the flower of love: carnation. Use it carefully.” I cannot but agree, and proclaim: alas for my poor heart…
Tristan and Isolde common use John William Waterhouse
Love philtres aren’t always deadly: Queen Titania merely finds herself in a most embarrassing and comic circumstance, and considerable debate exists regarding the fate of Tristan and Isolde (in the celebrated eponymous Wagnerian opera, they perish), largely dependent upon the source, particular country in which the tale is told, et al. Roses are famous for their association with romantic love, and unless you are particularly informed – many wouldn’t customarily regard the red carnation in a similar vein. Never mind: the perfumer is here to rectify these misconceptions as he spins an aromatic spider’s web of intrigue, courtly love, and yes – lust. While Hiram Green Philtre seethes with volupté, it never enters the realm of vulgarity. As a potent concoction composed of profoundly sensual materials, this perfume is an unbridled success – replete with clove and black pepper to complement the intense eugenol presence in both carnation and those little brown buds of spice. Clove and carnation are frequent confidants, and rose (the universal playmate) is exceptionally fond of them both (think Caron’s beloved Poivre, but less intense and beastly). Hiram’s inclusion of jasmine sweetens the pot, while tastefully insinuating a discreet level of intimacy, while vanilla softens any rougher edges, and resins contribute depth and tenacity.
A word about cloves, carnations, and eugenol: eugenol is a powerful, volatile phenolic component found in the chemical makeup of both clove and carnation – which is why you will frequently see them in combination, or sitting in for one another. Eugenol is an excellent antiseptic, and is used to relieve oral discomfort; this is why many cannot abide it (culturally, Brits associate it with dental procedures, and not usually in a fond way). When utilized in a sizable dose, clove/carnation can smell medicinal – which is why one wouldn’t necessarily correlate it with romance in the first place. I mention this because one’s brief, initial perception regarding the opening of Hiram Green may smell medicinal to some noses, but this facet doesn’t linger long or detract from the perfume’s overall substantial beauty and sentimentality.
Hiram Green Philtre via Instagram
I think it’s brilliant that Hiram Green Philtre arrives on the scene just before St. Valentine’s Day. Everything about this genderless perfume murmurs of intrigue and flirtation. Seduction is seduction, pure and simple – and I cannot imagine anyone who isn’t susceptible to seduction. As I often opine: it is preferable to seduce rather than to cudgel. While Philtre is not a blind buy, it’s certainly something you want to sample for yourself. As an avowed lifelong carnation lover, I think it’s marvelous.
Notes: flower stems, clove, rose, carnation, jasmine, resins, vanilla, black pepper
Sample generously provided by Indigo Perfumery – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Hiram Green Philtre Indigo Perfumery
Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have a 50 ml flacon of Hiram Green Philtre for one registered reader in the USA. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Hiram Green Philtre based upon Ida’s review, whether you’ve tried any Hiram Green fragrances and that you live in USA. Draw closes 2/09/2024 and winner will be announced within 10 days thereafter.
Hiram Green has been the recipient of our ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent 2020, twice in 2019, 2018, 2016 and 2014
Available in the USA at Indigo Perfumery
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