Michelyn Camen’s and Ermano Picco’s overview of Best Fragrances of 2022 (and a few disappointments)
This year was challenging for so many of us, on many levels. Michelyn was unable to see her colleagues and friend-in-fragrance at Esxence, and missed many fragrances of 2022, simply because she wasn’t there.
For as long as ÇaFleureBon has been giving end of year Best Fragrance awards (2010), (2011), (2012), (2013), (2014), (2015), (2016) (2017), (2018) (2019) (2020) and (2021) we always ask the question, “was this a good year for perfume?” We assure you despite living in challenging times the Fragrances of 2022 were some of the best in quite a few years. – Ermano Picco, Editor and Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Fragrances of 2022 Best Trends: Natural Perfumery as a new niche. 100% natural perfumes and perfumers have been around for a long time, in recent years with pioneers like Mandy Aftel, nowadays the natural palette has incredibly widened thanks to research. Moreover, Natural Perfumery has finally gathered the interest of a wider audience thanks to more and more brands like Parfumeurs du Monde, Voyages Imaginaires, Hiram Green, Floratropia, ALTRA and others, involving young and more experienced perfumers. So today, with commercial brands offering natural perfumes as well, we can finally tell Natural Perfumery has become a niche on its own and being so young, we can only expect to see wonders in the future. Ermano Picco.
Ermano, this to me isn’t a trend but a new era, when natural perfumery is recognized as olfactory art, after many years of ridicule or outright dismissal from critics, and others in the industry. Here at CaFleureBon we have been championing natural perfumery since our inception; Aftelier Perfumes Honey Blossom won a 2010 best of scent –Michelyn Camen
Perfume as Wellness: Many of the fragrances of 2022 were responses to changing times we live in; perfumers have shifted towards scents that make people feel good about themselves whereas usually perfumes are about attracting others.
American perfumery: American perfumers offer a unique fragrance perspective that is getting worldwide attention. Many are self-taught and come from diverse backgrounds and ethnicities. To quote American Perfumer Anjali Vandemark of Anjali Perfumes “There is a growing wave of experimentation and inclusion today”
Welcome to the Metaverse: Perfumes still remain an in-person experience but the rise of the Metaverse and the response of companies to the concept means that a person, a group of friends, a gathering of individuals from around the world can explore fragrance, ingredients, purpose, sustainability, within their own universe. Dr. Nadeem Crowe of Rook Perfumes, The Scent of the Metaverse: Verse 1 is “first NFT” fragrance ever created.
Thomas de Monaco Eau Couer and Sycomore Parfum collage by Emmanuelle©
Best Fragrance of 2022:
Thomas de Monaco Eau Coeur (Maurus Bachman): In all my years of writing and testing thousands of perfumes, only twice has a fragrance had such a profound effect on me. It was love at first sniff and Eau Coeur captured my heart. I also learned an important lesson. You cannot judge a fragrance by the notes, (as much as your tempted). If I had seen the listed notes Magnolia Oil, Osmanthus absolue, Pink Pepper; Rose Maroc, Virginia Cedar, Oakwood; Tonka Bean absolue, Musk, Ambrox, chances are I would have prejudged, as I am not a fan of rose, ambrox and pink pepper. Instead, Thomas de Monaco and perfumer Maurus Bachman have created a heart stopping beautiful perfume.
Chanel Sycomore Parfum. Perfumer Olivier Polge succeeded at really creating a plush, intense embodiment of the gorgeous original woody floral, extending both the luminous heights of florals and the smoky depths of vetiver. Editor Ermano Picco.
Neela Vermeire courtesy of Neela
Fragrances of 2022 Best Creative Director:
Neela Vermeire, founder and Creative Director of Neela Vermeire Creations and Fragments by NVC. With the new line Fragments by NVC this year she succeeded in launching more accessible and affordable fragrances without compromising with her own vision and style, collaborating with “what began as three unnamed perfumers as well as without forcedly tap into her Indian roots. I can’t wait to see the upcoming next releases. Editor Ermano Picco.
I agree Ermano, which is why Neela is also in my Hall of Fame. This year’s Creative Director award goes to two people. Our own Steven Gavrielatos, aka Redolessence who is our weekly video content creator for his work with Julien Rasquinet and Dominique Ropion on Navitus Parfums Raised Spirits, a cozy, warming ,boozy feel-good perfume. Influencer Stephanie Ledda’s first fragrance 22 Orris, a fruity upbeat iris with 22 percent pure orris was in collaboration with Firmenich Principal Perfumer Frank Voekl -Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrance you never heard of:
Les Amours du Nord СТЕПЬ #1 (Steppe #1) by NŌSE, a line founded by Russian perfumer Timur Sodolov. Ermano Picco
Samples of small batch Texan Tim Hooks’ new three perfume collection Tempus Vitae arrived unannounced in late November. Tempus Vitae Fete d’Ambre extrait de parfum instantly transported me to a time in the not too distant past when my friend and I were sipping bourbon by a fireplace, as we listened to Christmas songs as the snow fell outside. Well named, it is an ambery winter holiday in a bottle, cozy and comfy with coffee notes. -Michelyn Camen
courtesy of the brand
Best Fragrances of 2022 Niche House: L’Artisan Parfumeur:
L’Artisan Parfumeur Pamplemousses was one of the first non-designer fragrances I bought in the early 80s; I even met Jean La Porte who founded the house in the tiny shop on Madison Avenue. Over the years I have worn many but with a few exceptions most have lost their edge. This changed in 2022; I was truly impressed by Le Potager Collection of five perfumes using a vegetable note; four created by Quentin Bisch and my favorite by Alexandra Carlin. -Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2022 Independent House:
Hima-Jomo (which in Tibetan refers to the “Holy mother” Himalaya) was probably the most exciting niche house I discovered this year, embodying the Asian traditions, spirituality and kindness into a line of exquisite fragrances composed by perfumer Delphine Thierry with the best French touch. -Ermano
AZMAN, translated as “hours” or “moments” from Arabic was founded by Husan Baba last year with “Two minutes after the kiss”, 2022 was the year that fulfilled the mission of the brand which was to spotlight real oud in unusual ways and with unexpected ingredients, commissioning indie perfumers from around the globe. The flacons are now sleek and streamlined and five new AZMAN parfums were added to the collection. Three will be showing up throughout the next few days in our Best Fragrances of 2022 by four of our editors. -MIchelyn Camen
Antonio Alessandria
Best Fragrances of 2022 Artisan Perfumer:
Perfumer Antonio Alessandria released this year Amado Mio, a dance cheek to cheek with rose and tobacco following the rousing music of yummy honey, raspberry, and bran absolute over a bed of dark woods. A must sniff totally unique take on rose- Ermano Picco
Oh Ermano, I am so jealous, I love EVERYTHING Antonio creates.-Michelyn
Euan McCall
Edinburgh-based artisanal perfumer Euan McCall of Jorum Studio receives my 2022 award. Like Antonio, he creates for other houses, (including AZMAN and Senyokô). His Scottish Odyssey Collection now numbers five and each fragrance explore the olfactive topography and folklore of Scotland. My personal favorite was Healing Berry which is akin to gathering wild berries in Perthshire-Michelyn Camen
Fragrances of 2022 Best Independent Perfume:
Frassai Victoria. It takes courage these days of loud, monolithic, uninspired perfume blockbusters to create such a classy, yet modern symphonic beauty built around the Diva of flowers, tuberose. Bravo! -Ermano Picco.
It is also my best perfume of the year Thomas de Monaco Eau Couer-Michelyn Camen
Aurelien Guichard, Nathalie Feisthauer and Olivier Polge collage by Emmanuelle©
Best 2022 Perfumer:
I have a tie; Aurelien Guichard of MATIERE PREMIERE and Takasago and Nathalie Feisthauer of Labscent
Second year in a row!! Nathalie Feisthauer has long been a favorite perfumer of mine, ever since Eau de Merveilles for Hermes. Her versatility and technical skill shone like the scent star she is with 22 releases (perfectly symmetrical for 2022). Der Duft Privilege, Zoologist Cow and more.
Few perfumers are as connected to raw materials in the way MATIERE PREMIERE and Takasago perfumer Aurelien Guichard is. French Flower was created using the almost lost art of Enfleurage, a technique which uses frames with a glass panel that is covered with vegetal wax. Flowers are carefully layered on this wax that will absorb their olfactive molecules, with layers renewed until the wax is fully ready to be distilled. Crystal Saffron is one of the best saffron-centric perfumes I have ever smelt with a fresh and crisp texture, rather than the warm and spicy side. -Michelyn Camen
Olivier Polge– Ermano Picco
photo by Emmanuelle©
Best 2022 Natural Perfume House:
Voyages Imaginaires did it again! The latest release L’Eau des Immortels is totally captivating and unfolds the exquisite complexity of immortelle flower as well as extraordinary longevity for a 100% natural perfume. -Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Michael Schrammel of For the Scent of It
Best Discovery: Michael Schrammel of For the Scent of It!
Thank you, Sr. Contributor Michael Devine for spraying it forward. Michael Schrammel is a self-taught artisan, an exceptional talent and another example of an American perfumer who creates fragrances “for the scent of it.” If you have not sampled his work. I URGE YOU to buy his discovery set NOW!-Michelyn Camen
Tanja Bochnig and Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen collage by Emmanuelle©
Best Natural Perfumer 2022:
Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal- Ermano Picco
I love Isabelle and Camille of course, but for me I chose a perfumer who has always worked with 100 percent natural ingredients, Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics. This year’s Lost in Roses appealed to me in every way, as I like my roses fruity, jammy and honeyed. It also brought back memories of Editor Tama Blough, who passed away January 9, 2014, she loved roses and Tanja’s San Francisco was the last perfume she wore before she passed.
courtesy of the brand
Fragrances of 2022 Best Bottle:
Not only you can smell Dries Van Noten in the air, but you can see his unique style through the 10 amazing flacons of the new Dries Van Noten perfumes line. Simple shapes, bold colorful patterns, and uber-chic details from the caps definitely made our best bottles of 2022. -Editor Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Fragrances of 2022 Worst Bottle: Billie Eilish 2. Since Nikki Minaj didn’t have a fragrance this year, thank you Billie Eilish. The gunmetal robo- metallic nightmare flacon was inspired by the singer’s favorite body parts and reminds me of the AIs in Westworld, a futuristic Venus de Milo with more than a nod to Gaultier’s Le Male Classique. I saw it, and ran. PS. It may smell great but can’t get past the creepy bottle. -Michelyn Camen
Fragrances of 2022 Best Limited Edition:
Born as a sort of wunderkammer where flowers played a big role, in 2022 Diptyque got back to its roots teaming up with florist Maurice Harris (who came to fame on the show Full Bloom) for the launch of the new Eau Rose. A limited-edition special candle trio celebrated the unusual facets of this sparkling rose: Chamomille, Artichaut, and Rose Such a beautifully displayed and original trio couldn’t be missed, definitely. -Ermano Picco
Anatole Lebreton Brioche: Dear Anatole. please let us smell Brioche as part of your permanent collection in 2023-Michelyn
Fragrances of 2022 Best Fragrance Event:
After more than two years of hiatus, Esxence was back in Milano gathering thousands of people in the industry and perfumistas as never before. -Ermano Picco
Pierre Benard of Osmoart speaking at the World Perfumery Conference
I missed it, but we are a media partner for 2023 and can’t wait to see you there. The World Perfumery Congress 2022 was held in Miami June 29th-July 1st. It was my great pleasure to attend with Elise Pearlstine a friend since her first post for ÇaFleureBon on perfume notes over 11 years ago. We spent four days of sniffing and learning. From the opening reception hosted by Quintis Sandalwood to the July 1 awards ceremony for Art and Olfaction 2022, (where I was honored to accept for winner Amber Jobin’s Mayan Chocolate in the Artisan Category). WPC was an amazing olfactory journey but also a time to connect or reconnect with new and old friends-in-fragrance as well as readers!!!.
collage by Emmanuelle©
Best Experimental Scent: Aether Arts Perfume HiveMind and Rook Perfumes The Scent of the Metaverse Verse 1
This is a new category for 2022. Multi Art and Olfaction Award Winning artisan perfumer Amber Jobin of Aether Arts Perfume created Hivemind as a reimagining of bees in the distant future, leaving the earth in search of a new home. It’s a sci-fi gourmand, a futuristic scent constructed around honey, metallic spaceship notes and wax. Here I quote Nicoleta verbatim,” Rook Perfumes The Scent of the Metaverse Verse 1 is what a new (new-new not just “new) god from Neil Gaiman’s “American Gods” would smell like. Forget Mr. World, Technical Boy and Media, this is a whole new sentient creature“. -Michelyn Camen
courtesy of the brand
Fragrances of 2022 Best Bang for the Buck
For less than beer & pizza Jo Loves for Zara Ocean / Nº3 Caviar Bergamot delivers an amazing citrus musky freshness, as nonchalantly elegant as a way more expensive designer cologne. -Ermano Picco
Courtesy of 7 Virtues
Luscious juicy and 100 percent delightful 7 Virtues Lotus Pear: also does good while you smell good. A portion of the proceeds of every bottle sold goes to Days For Girls, “an international organization that advances menstrual equity, health, dignity and opportunity for all those who menstruate, transforming periods into pathways.”-Michelyn Camen
Best (fragrance) Book:
Scent a History of Perfume by Dr. Elise Vernon Pearlstine
Fragrance, botanicals, raw materials, pollinators, and history converge in our Editor and Ethno-Botanist Dr. Elise Vernon Pearlstine’s brilliant new book Scent, A Natural History of Fragrance. Learn about incense, resins, oud, spices, flowers and aromatic herbs and their habitats as well as from their roots in ancient civilizations to modern day. Each chapter of Scent, A Natural History of Fragrance is annotated and the glossary includes hundreds of botanical nomenclature as well as historical writers and artists (Agatha Christie and Salvador Dali, for example).-Michelyn
Courtesy of Nez La Revue©
Sentir le sens by Mathilde Laurent for Nez, a personal thoughtful and engaging narration through the “perfumistic” vision and poetic of Cartier inhouse perfumer that’s a genuine manifesto awakening our olfactory sensibility. Ermano Picco.
Fragrances of 2022 Best Collaboration:
Emmanuelle Dancourt with Ugo Charron courtesy of Emannuelle
Umema is a collaboration between Ugo Charron (who was co-perfumer for the art and olfaction award winning Grandiflora) and Emmanuelle Dancourt. Emmanuelle Dancourt was born an anosmic, meaning she never had a sense of smell, so the idea of making a personal perfume that she could never smell was through synesthesia and sensorial experiences. With the help of Ugo, she went to the Mane factory tasted ingredients such as orris root and Japanese Dashi as well as explored shapes and texture, roses were velvety pastel pink. Perfume is such a personal expression of who we are, and although she cannot smell UMEMA, it gives her self-confidence and she now feels closer to the fragrant world that so many of us take for granted.-Michelyn Camen
Astier de Villatte Trois parfums historiques at Pitti Fragranze © Ermano
Astier de Villatte creative duo teamed up with renowned fragrance. anthropologist and author Annick Le Guérer and Master Perfumer Dominique Ropion for the unbelievable contemporary rendition of the three most legendary perfumes of the ancient world: Le Dieu Bleu (Kyphy), Artaban (the Royal Perfume of ancient romans) and Les Nuits (reconstructing a fragrance used by French novelist George Sand). The result is exceptional from an olfactory, visually and literary point of view.-Ermano
Nathalie Feisthauer and Yvon Jaqueline USA Managing Director of Parfums de Marly and Initio Parfums Prives
Best Fragrances of 2022 Hardest Working Person in Perfume:
Nathalie Feisthauer authored 22 brand new perfumes in 2022, all of them were exquisitely crafted, from the more experimental Norwegian brand Kalit trio to the unexpectedly joyous Cow for Zoologist, passing by the French coquetry of Ambre Blanc for Maison Rebatchi and others. Plus I had the pleasure to meet her in Milan last June at Esxence, and I saw she attended various other events. So, as a one-woman band, she definitely deserves the Hardest Working Person in Perfume award. -Ermano Picco
I agree Ermano, you will find quite a few of Nathalie’s perfumes in our team’s Best Perfumes of 2022 list and one of my best perfumers 2022. I am adding Yvon Jaqueline, who is the USA Managing Director of Parfums de Marly and Initio Parfums Prives. During 2022, he conducted over 100 masterclasses at retailers or events. -Michelyn Camen
courtesy of the brand
Best Home Fragrance 2022:
Diptyque Artichaut candle -Ermano
Providence Perfume Co. by Charna Ethier Neroli Morning, Celadon, and Night Flower all -natural candles: It’s really ridiculously difficult to make all natural candles! Charna succeeded. She wanted the candle line to be really fragrant with both cold and hot scent throw—super hard to do with natural essences. Getting back to the idea of fragrance as wellness, whenever I feel a little down or stressed, I burn Neroli Morning, which is uplifting and calming.
courtesy of Armani
Best Fragrances of 2022 Best Ad:
Armani Code Parfum for Men featuring Bridgerton star Regé-Jean Page that pictures in the striking photography by Damon Baker. a contemporary, cultivated, and effortless masculinity, without showing ripped abs. Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Designer Fragrance 2022: Chanel Sycomore parfum- Ermano Picco
courtesy of Fenty Beauty
Best Fragrances of 2022 Celebrity Fragrance: Fenty eau de parfum by Rihanna. Riri did it right hiring Louis Vuitton inhouse perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud to compose t a melodious woody-floral centered around rose. Also, the flacon is solid and elegant, so this earns her our Best Celebrity fragrance of 2022. -Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Worst Celebrity Fragrance: Burnt Hair by Elon Musk: For $100 a pop, I can singe a strand of my hair and send you it. Touted by him as the finest fragrance on earth. Proving people will buy anything it sells for a BIN of $345on Ebay. It technically launches in 2023, but he took preorders for “10,000 a bottle.”
Best Fragrances of 2022 Best perfume you want to drink or eat:
Best Neo-Vintage:
Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris got my attention as a beautiful update on of the flawless 1950s style à la Cary Grant. I wasn’t surprised at all to discover later that it came as a spontaneous proposal from perfumer Jean-Christophe Heraut to creative director Rania Naim as a vetiver in the style of Jacques Fath.
Roque Perfumery L’Homme M. LaCroix: Manuel Cross’s all-natural, botanical leather was just released and is a nod to leather and chypre of the 80s, but still modern and original.
Most Disappointing Perfume 2022:
Frédéric Malle Uncut Gem delivers something edgy and hard, but not necessarily a gem as promised. -Ermano Picco
I agree, it needed more facets-Michelyn Camen
courtesy of Guerlain
Best Fragrances of 2022 Flanker:
Shalimar Millesime Tonka is probably the best flanker of Shalimar in years, renovating the lavish side of the classic Shalimar through a good load of gorgeous tonka bean. Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrance Name 2022:
Meo Fusciuni Encore du Temps. Time is the most precious resource in our modern lives, the best luxury gift we can give and share with the people we love, just like our perfume hugging them. Encore du temps brings such a beautiful message within that it makes my best fragrance name. -Ermano Picco.
Etat Libre D’Orange Frustration: 2022 in one word (and a gorgeous gourmand as well). -Michelyn Camen
Best Buzz of 2022:
Elon Musk getting into fragrances with Burnt Hair. At first everybody wondered whether it was a joke, but it was not actually. And the buzz was way more entertaining than the fragrance. – Ermano Picco
Francis Kukdjian is working on a new perfume in his role as Perfume Creation Director for Parfums Dior-Michelyn Camen
Florian Gallo of Firmenich©
Rising Star 2022:
Scouting talents and rising stars of the perfumery of tomorrow is always a pleasure. In 2018 ,young perfumer Florian Gallo got my attention winning the Prix international du jeune parfumeur-créateur from the Societé Française de Parfumeurs with a beautiful composition around tobacco. As Firmenich immediately hired him, I was looking forward to his creations. This year he released Capsule d’émotions, a row of beautiful creations for French jeweler Mauboussin of which Caviar Attraction explores the savory creaminess of caviar. Keep an eye on him!- Ermano Picco
Ermano, you have the nose to be a scent scout. That’s is how I found Jerome di Marino was through your Rising Star of 2020. I am also watching Ugo Charron of Mane-Michelyn Camen
Sarah McCartney (left) and Saskia Wilson Brown (right)
MVP (Most Valuable Perfume Person) 2022: Hall Of Fame: Saskia Wilson Brown and Sarah McCartney
In a multibillion-dollar industry that’s often driven by the numbers– both in dollars and products sold- fragrance can lose many of the qualities we value most, its ability to stir memories and emotions– with just a dab of scent. When the emphasis is put on ad campaigns, flankers and celebrity spokespeople something vital is lost… perfume as artistic expression, both of my MVPS encourage education, creativity, diversity and excellence in fragrance.-Michelyn Camen
Since 2014, Saskia Wilson-Brown, the founder and Executive Director of The Institute of Art and Olfaction has done so much for mentoring and fostering independent and artisan perfumes through the Art and Olfaction awards, But she does much more including events,and initiatives that promote scent culture at the Institute and during the pandemic online through various programs.
Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays is fiercely independent. Sarah’s message is to understand your customer, to create with passion and to be “pirates” in the mold of British sailors who ran away from the navy rather than being kicked out. Her challenge to all perfumers was to visit a few department store perfume counters to understand how facts from creators may get lost on their way to consumers and fall into the “Valley of Dead Truths”. Recently she wrote something on Instagram that angered a fragrance company who had her account shut down. There is not shutting down Sarah, she is a force of nature and a pirate!
Note: Sarah worked with me in collaboration on 2107 Red Queen, 2018 White Queen,2020 Dark Queen and is currently working on a 13th anniversary 2023 “Queen.”-Michelyn Camen
Best Fragrances of 2022 Hall of Fame: Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Creations
If the fragrance world didn’t have a person like Neela, we would have to invent her, a more kind, loving, artistic and dedicated woman you will never meet. Neela Vermeire introduced her line of exquisite fragrances in 2011, Neela Vermeire has a special place in our hearts. CaFleureBon wrote about the collection in 2011 (no not 2012 as other sites state). CaFleureBon also featured Neela Vermeire in the Creative Directors in Perfumery Series in 2013. Neela also is a recipient of the Art and Olfaction Award for Ashoka in 2014. I have said numerous times that Mohur Extrait , “is religious experience” and ranks in my top five perfumes of all time. Her new Fragments by NVC perfumes are stunning (as you will read tomorrow and Tuesday). Here is the story behind them. She began the perfumes during the pandemic. She refers to her Fragments By NVC trio as “figments of our fragrant imagination”. A new bottle was created and was accompanied by gorgeous art by illustrator Massimo Alfaiol. Neela, you add such grace, elegance and artistic sensibility to our scented lives. We thank you -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Rosendo Mateu courtesy of the brand
Fragrant Emeritus award: R.I.P. Rosendo Mateu, we wish the family and the new perfume company bearing his name our best, and offer our condolences on your loss.-the entire team of CaFleureBon
For our Best Fragrances of 2022 Giveaway
Thanks to the generosity of Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics we have 30 ml of Lost n Roses worth 169 Euros WORLDWIDE (be sure to register or your comment will not count),
Thanks to Ann Bouterse of Indigo Perfumery, we have 50 ml of Thomas de Monaco Eau Couer ($290) in the USA only (be sure to register or your comment will not count),
Antonio Alessandria Parfums Amado Mio courtesy of Antonio Alessandria©
Grazie Mille to Antonio Alessandria for a 50 ml bottle of Amado Mio USA and EU only.
What did you think of Ermano’s and Michelyn’s ÇaFleureBon Best (and worst) Fragrances of 2022?
We will be back with our top ten soon, as well as over the next few days, Ida, Lauryn, Emmanuelle, Nicoleta, Karl, Michael, Rachel, Hernando and Steven and Olya will award their favorites from 2022. There will be MANY DRAWS
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