Rogue Perfumery Derviche II by Karl

“To expect the unexpected shows a thoroughly modern intellect.” Oscar Wilde, 1895.

Words which resonate deeply when anticipating what scented delights await.  Certainly, in the case of Manuel Cross.  A perfumer with a cultlike status known for thoughtful vintage creations with a modern twist.  I did my due diligence, researched his backstory, his love of the classics, expertise in the culinary world.  So, it was fate that all I had presumed would be turned upside down.  That has been the case with Rogue Perfumery Derviche II.

Manuel Cross courtesy of the Perfumer©

The definition of Derviche, is one that whirls or dances with the abandonment of a dervish.  A series of overwhelming movements.  The name aptly describes a scent of many aspects, one that transforms like dusk through till dawn. Unlike its predecessor, Rogue Perfumery Derviche II is not simply an amplification of the hookah vibe of the original. The ingredients are very similar, but, utilised in completely different proportions. Derviche II is slightly reminiscent to me of the fragrances that have become the cornerstone of the ‘nouveau riche’ boudoirs.  However, here is a complex amalgamation of those ostentatious wafts of the social climbers and the ambitious.  Perhaps it is a ‘tongue in cheek’ humorous wink to the movement of vulgarism and ‘lux glam’ niche perfumes done with nuance and true intelligence.

Manuel Cross serves up a scent so audacious and impactful as to create a ‘whirling dervish’ of commotion.  It brought an instant smile to my face.  My friend’s response on first experiencing it was, “Oh my goodness, this doesn’t hold back, it just grabs you immediately.”  When I asked her, on which occasion she would wear the fragrance for she was very direct.  “To conquer my dear.”  Expressed with a cheeky grin and a raucous laugh.  A scent such as Derviche II doesn’t require over analysing.  It is riotous and playful and wild.  A fragrance to wear and just be carried along for the ride.

 Leonardo di Caprio as Jay Gatsby 2013 still©

One wears a perfume  such as Rogue Perfumery Derviche II as to make a statement.  For reckless abandon and happy times.  The opening is a huge blast of tart citrus with a cloak on incense floating beguilingly around and it is truly dynamic and powerful. Whilst the original Derviche plays on syrupy tones; Derviche II is very fruity up top and has a vibrancy to it.  This brightness is a distinct facet of the fragrance, which clings to the skin throughout its lifespan.

Moreover, like the tumult of a roller-coaster, Rogue Perfumery Derviche II has many tight turns and steep slopes.  The citrus opening is a prelude to sugary goodness.  There is an almost rock candied essence half an hour in that mixes temptingly with the long-lasting incense.  It is such a surprising and entertaining transition, which, draws you in deep to the heart of the perfume and is a rich, opulent sensation.  Pure unadulterated excitement is created from these macerated fruits topped with a dusty sugary aspect.  Surely a nod to Manuel Cross’s culinary expertise. Tartness, sweetness, being wrapped around in a dusty and slightly smoky incense. How can one resist?

photo Esquire Magazine ©

However, it gets even better.  When one feels that there are no more surprises left to experience, the secret to Derviche II has been intelligently and slowly hidden and suddenly reveals itself in layers of musk.  This is the most interesting facet to the scent to my nose.  The musk pulses out coaxing and teasing one cheekily and then unannounced peeking through into our consciousness comes Vietnamese Agarwood (Oudh).  Suddenly, we take yet another turn.  The perfume becomes heavier and deeper (whilst the musk balances the scent brilliantly) the smokiness of incense is also enhanced, and this devilish nuance reveals itself.  This is the phase of the fragrance, which reminds me most of its counterpart.  In Derviche we are treated to labdanum and tobacco.  Here we are teetering on the edge with Agarwood and dried fruits.  Just as I feel the scent is becoming overloaded and too much, in enters the softest vanillic base to smooth things over and centre one’s thoughts to calm the ride.

Manuel Cross has brought an incredible amount of creative license to Rogue Perfumery Derviche II. His aim is to take us down the rabbit hole of artistic perfumery.  I consider this achieved.  Whilst I mentioned at the beginning that it is reminiscent of the ‘nouveau riche’ in his hands this scent surpasses that notion. The fruits never become overly tart. The sugary candy vibe never cloys. The woods never attain complete domination.  It is a hugely complex and challenging task to take on and balance so many aspects, yet he succeeds in delivering a scent that is excessive, but, refined.

As a result, Derviche II hits the spot.  It has presence, punch and vibrancy and is completely unisex and multi-dimensional.  A scent that lets people know you are present.  There’s an urgency to it that speaks volumes. Wear it  when you into a room and you’ll hear whispers “WHAT is he is wearing.”

Notes: Citrus, Mediterranean Herbs, Incense, Agar Wood, Sugared Fruits, Amber, Vanilla, Musk.

Disclaimer: Bottle of Derviche II kindly provided by Rogue Perfumery. My opinions are my own.

Karl Topham, Senior Contributor

Rogue Perfumery Derviche II by Karl ©

Thanks to Manuel Cross, we have a draw for a 50 ml bottle of Rogue Perfumery Derviche II for one registered reader in the EU, UK & USA. To be eligible please leave a comment about what strikes you about Rogue Perfumery Derviche II, where you live, and if you have a favorite Rogue Perfumery fragrance. Draw closes 3/27/22.

Please read: Profiles in American Perfumery, Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery by Michelyn Camen.

Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur Review by Deputy Editor Ida Meister for Cafleurebon.

Rogue Perfumery received Michelyn’s Best Independent House of 2021

Rogue Perfumery Derviche II was a top ten fragrance of 2021 by Steven Gavrielatos aka Redolessence  

You can follow us @cafleurebonofficial @karl.topham @rogueperfumery

This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed … or  your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.