Esxence 2023 Iridescent image by Karl©

Luminous colours shimmering from different angles hit one immediately on the entrance banner at the 13^th Edition of  Esxence- The Art of Perfumery Event (March 31-April 2), an announcement of the high-octane energy that awaited us at MiCo Milan Congress Centre. The theme for Esxence 2023 was ‘Iridescent’. Collectively there were 298 brands, and over 10,300 visitors that attended. ÇaFleureBon has been a media partner of Esxence since 2010 and our team of editors were eager to find new fragrant trends and olfactive gems to share with our readers and viewers.

After landing on the dusk flight from Manchester to Malpensa my first night was spent planning. I was prepared for a busy schedule but not for the enormity of what was to come – it was beyond my comprehension. Rising early, I completed fifty push-ups to get me pumped, little did I know that the next four days would be a test of both mental and physical toughness! That is the intensity of Esxence 2023 it’s a survival of the fittest. Unfortunately, our Editor-In-Chief Michelyn Camen could not join us for Esxence 2023. However, I knew her support would push us forward to do our best. On arrival I met with our editors and contributors (Emmanuelle, Ermano, Nicoleta and Danu) and set out to reconnect with perfumers, colleagues, brand owners, creative directors, and readers. For my Part 1, I will focus on trends that I believe herald new fragrance directions.

Celine Verleure and Olfactive Studio collage by Karl©

IRIDESCENCE

As the light-refracting mosaic main wall drew visitors into Esxence 2023 the fragrances also shimmered with the same intensity and many of the booths reflected the theme. Celine Verleure, Creative Director for Olfactive Studio captured this with  Dancing Light (reviewed by Emmanuelle), Flashback, and Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul which will be available later this year. It is a complex chypre composed by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato.

Alyson Oldoini booth by Karl©

Alyson Oldoini Parfums were celebrating their 10-year anniversary here at Esxence 2023 and their stand of pure white against a lacquered ruby wall was certainly eye catching. The flacons of platinum galvanic coating come in white or black croco print. Also, I discovered Alyson Oldoini Parfums has links to hospitals contributing to the healing of people under medical treatments. Holly Hutchinson of Memoize London was showcasing their new ‘Colour Range’ supporting LGBTQA+ rights and young people’s charity. I was fortunate enough to sample all of the perfumes and was struck by the quality of the range and the vivid presentation of each which come with hand finished caps using cuts of oak and walnut. Sustainability being central to their ethos.

IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES

The New SenseXperience’ by Karl©

A highlight for me was visiting ‘The New SenseXperience’. This 360-degree immersive installation is a new collaboration between the Accademia del Profumo, Atelier Fragranze Milano, Prospettiva X and Sensit. Project Manager Biancamaria Mori of API SRL described how this unique experience plunges one into a completely unreleased reality. The multisensory journey was incredibly stimulating with visuals, sounds and scents which were created by perfumer Luca Maffei to bring across a dreamlike state. It was quite the revelation and a wonderful introduction to my time.  Another fascinating project in the partner area of Esxence was CFF Flavours & Fragrances ‘Evoluscent’ where some of the world’s premier raw materials were on show. It was an opportunity to discover various facets of ingredients and discuss formulation processes which go into creating perfumes.

 INTERPLANETARY PERFUME

Jovoy Paris Musc Pallas courtesy of the brand

A thread across Esxence this year was of olfactive exploration and the harmony between perfume and space. Parfums De Gabor Astronaut is a fantastic new release, which fuses aromatic and amber notes in a breath-taking way. Described as ‘Alpha-cool’ by owner and perfumer Gabriel Gabor this Extrait is an amalgamation of citrus, woods and has a unique base of ambergris, cool vetiver and floral sandalwood. It is the kind of scent which opens up your lungs and lets you take flight. I was most impressed. Also focusing on the relationship between perfume and space I managed to discuss the new projects Francois Henin has in store for Jovoy Paris and Mayfair. Jovoy Paris Musc Pallas by Vanina Muracciole is a study in magnifying the marriage of different musks, the combination of ambrette, iris, peach, sea spray, red and white musks, tonka and a unique twilight ingredient is definitely intriguing a spacious and uplifting scent for sure. I met with Sophia and Fabiola Bardelli of In Astra who were debuting their collection at Esxence inspired by the stars. In Astra Mismar is a perfume particularly close to Sophia’s heart as she is not only the perfumer for In Astra but also a glider pilot. It has a cool exterior built upon juniper, a crisp mid of cypress and base of ambergris. Artistic Director Fabiola Bardelli explained to me that In Astra was born of their passion for both perfumery and astronomy and each fragrance is dedicated to a star. Leila Ayach owner of L’Adone presented her Elenya Range of perfumes to me. Elenya is the name of one of the stars in the Dracon Constellation which designates ‘bright light’. My favourite of the extrait de parfums was Azur by Andreas Wilhelm which is an ingenious blend of leather, saffron and oud with elemi and ambergris.

JOY and WELL-BEING

Collage of Le Jardin Retrouve Osmanthe Liu Yuan launch party, courtesy of the brand.

At Esxence 2023, the influence of the Far East was everywhere. There was a conscious effort to regain an intimacy and connection with lighter more delicate scents. Le Jardin Retrouve Osmanthe Liu Yuan (Lingering Garden) by Maxence Moutte of Givaudan was a standout. Owners Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz were inspired by the happiness of strolling along galleries of a thousand-year-old garden. It is a scent of joy and subtlety.  The fruity and leathery facets of osmanthus are explored in a kaleidoscopic and nuanced way. The paper sculptures for the presentation were created by  artist, perfume lover and former CaFleureBon Contributor Cristian Marianciuc which are delicate and multicoloured surrounding the scent and revealing the joyful feel of the fragrance. I was fortunate to attend the official launch party of Le Jardin Retrouve Osmanthe Liu Yuan at the Enterprise Hotel where Clara, Michel and Maxence presented the concept to us.

Collage of Meo Fusciuni by Karl©

Another exciting discovery was discussing with ‘Aromatorio’ Guiseppe Imprezzabile aka Meo Fusciuni his collection of deeply personal perfumes and his latest release Sogni (Dreams) which is a devotion to nature and Japanese culture. There is a warm rice experience at the top which quickly subsides into delicate florals and woods. Our Senior Editor Nicoleta Tomsa wrote a poetic essay on Sogni which delves deep into the dreamlike state which Meo Fusciuni felt when realising this distinctive creation. Les Bains Guerbois Raku by Jerome Epinette continued the Japanese theme dedicated to faience pottery, slightly milky and fine with a delicate structure as becoming of its name.  Astrophil & Stella Shanghai 1930 by Arturetto Landi is presented in a white bottle as opposed to the clear glass flacons the brand is famous for. There are lots going on in this perfume from green tea, fruits and spices at the top through to white florals and myrrh in the base. I love the originality of their compositions with Nabati being a firm favourite of mine.

FLAMBOYANT & FASCINATING

Collage of The Stephane Humbert Lucas Deep Blue Installation, courtesy of the brand.

The Stephane Humbert Lucas Deep Blue Installation in the Straf Hotel Duomo Milan was an incredible experience. This was an opportunity to explore both the La Collection 777 and La Collection Serpent. Stephane Humbert Lucas (SHL)  is known for his daring and soulful compositions and his fragrances each blend vivid colours with beauty, and they dazzle in olfactive harmony. The presentation was an immersive experience where I learned about his values and vision. The man himself is a visionary – being a painter, poet and perfumer, artistic in the truest sense. Of La Collection Serpent I was delighted to discover Stephane Humbert Lucas Lady White Snake inspired from Chinese Mythology about the legend of a serpent Goddess who harnesses the energies of the universe to take human form. Lady White Snake is an enticing and complex perfume with an immaculate blend of white florals. A standout from La Collection 777 was Soleil de Jeddah Afterglow, this perfume reminded me of the transition from day to night the opening blazes with tangerine and incense before transitioning to a suede-like vanilla which is simply stunning. It was a pleasure to discuss how impactful these perfumes were to me with him.

Collage of Karl at the Xerjoff Boutique, Milan by Karl©

I also stopped by the Xerjoff Milan Boutique for their launch of the new Shooting Stars Aridal perfume and the K Blue collection of four perfumes– Empiryan, Ether, Holsm and Astaral. Later on, I was able to explore the newest fragrance from the ever creative mind of Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libre D’Orange Sous Le Pont Mirabeau. It has an aquatic and mineral nature and a warm candied and woody base. Inspired by the Pont Mirabeau bridge and the poem by Guillaume Apollinaire, the fragrance is  melancholic and romantic and refers to the exploration of love and the passage of time. Dimitri Weber and Goldfield & Banks Australia hosted a party for their newest perfume Island Lush. The surroundings were as sumptuous as the scent.

If you think that navigating Esxence 2023 was tough then getting back home was even tougher, but more about that later as you will be hearing from me again in part 2 and from the other members of our team in their Best of Show reports.

Karl Topham, Senior Editor & UK Brand Ambassador.

Karl Topham and Esxence 2023 collage by Karl

For our US, Canada, UK and EU readers we have a swag bag of assorted samples from Esxence 2023 Part 1. To be eligible you must be a registered reader. Please leave a quality comment with what  perfumes captured your imagination and the trends you found noteworthy. Draw ends 04/11/2023.

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