Collage by Karl Best of Show Esxence 2023 (AI image by Nicoleta)

In my previous trends article I touched upon the magnitude of Esxence 2023. The scale of the event this year was greater than last year and whilst navigating the booths was simpler the increase of people who attended throughout the four days ensured that regular breaks were needed to clear one’s nose from the density of fragrance within the conference centre. This brought with it advantage of being able to converse with brand owners, perfumers, and consultants in a relaxed way.

Best of Show Esxence 2023

Of the workshops and panel discussions on offer I was particularly intrigued to hear panel discussions on sustainability and business opportunities in China and Korea led by Karen Marin of Essencional. Another highlight was the reveal of the finalists of the Art and Olfaction Awards where the community came together to cheer each other on and celebrate together one of which was Meo Fusciuni’s Encore Du Temps. On the main floor areas were designated to Name Brands, those firmly ensconced in the industry, Spotlight Brands, those of innovation and compelling new concepts and beauty and skincare was also presented within the Experience Lab section.

Best of Show Esxence 2023: THE PEOPLE

 Best of Show Esxence 2023; Rola Hadad of LOR Paris by Karl

I met with Nathalie Feisthauer, a ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent 2022 Perfumer of The Year (LabScent) to discuss her latest creations over coffee and croissants. She works so tirelessly, and her passion and positivity always put a smile on my face. Of her work showcased by brands at Esxence 2023 LOR Paris certainly impressed. Founder Rola Haddad walked me through the collection and my favourite was Oud Latte, which is simply delicious. It has that wonderful balance that Nathalie Feisthauer is known for slightly gourmand, a tad spicy and very smooth. I also had a wonderful impromptu meeting with Ruth Sutcliffe of The Scent Guru Group LLC who was a panelist this year. The creations of Chris Maurice were in abundance, notably Manos Gerakinis Citrine, a radiant and sunny perfume with a softly purring animalic touch. There were handshakes and hugs with Alexandre Helwani, (Michelyn’s Rising Star of 2021 and former contributor) who is going from strength to strength as a young perfumer, his happy disposition was infectious. I stopped by the Musicology booth and discovered two new perfumes that owner Fabien Boukobza has in the works. For now, I am strictly sworn to secrecy. Ulrich Lang of Anvers New York celebrated 20 years of fragrance at Esxence and has a wonderful summer scent in store for perfume lovers later in the year. The surprises kept coming as I discovered a new patchouli perfume launching soon by Essential Parfums. Although I do not know the name of this mystery release Owner Geraldine Archambault was wearing it and it is a stunner. Bram Niessink of Fugazzi entertained me with his adventurous character and welcomed me to his business class flight inspired booth. The brand has a tongue firmly in cheek approach with fun and flamboyant perfumes which are powerful and quirky such as ‘In Love With The Cocos’. The chicest booth I visited was ‘S Strikes The Notes’ where Commercial Director Roberta Cerizza led me through their vibrant colourful perfumes, which have Italian first names such as ‘Priscilla’. It is a brand with a rich history started back in the 1940s by her grandfather Aurelio Cerizza. The scents are bold, original and a little strange.

Best of Show Esxence 2023: THE PERFUMES

Image of State of Mind booth by Karl.

Best of Show Esxence 2023 Perfume launch: Revolution, energy and frivolity was in the air as Catherine Laskine-Balandina of State of Mind Fr. Literally conducted the ‘avant premiere’ of her first coffee gourmand fragrance Fanforone Italiano by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni. Much like Catherine, the fragrance is bubbly, daring and fills the room with intensity. The inspiration for the fragrance fed by a variety of strong personalities who made their mark in a distinctly rebellious way from art to theatre, opera and cinema; Josephine Baker, Artemesia Gentileschi, Fanfan the Tulip, Cyrano and Figaro to name but few.

Image of the Filippo Sorcinelli booth courtesy of the brand.

Busiest Booth: There was a crackling electricity at the Filippo Sorcinelli booth as visitors crammed in to experience his truly unique and personal perfumes. I managed to jink through to experience But Not Today his ode to Ridley Scott’s Hannibal. The scent conveys the complex relationship between Dr. Lector and FBI agent Clarice Starling in an abstract way. The opening is an arresting metallic accord reminiscent of blood, which morphs into a sensitive floral and subtly animalic scent oddly romantic and to my nose has a whisper of incense.

Image of FUMparFUM collage by Karl.

Best of Show Esxence 2023 Concept: I explored the deep recesses of the conference centre and discover perfume houses tucked away in unobvious locations. I was blown away by was FUMparFUM Vilinus, their Alchemist Charlatan Collection. Owner and perfumer Aistis Mickevicius satirizes and entertains with his line of beautifully polished aromas. They are presented with a sophisticated minimalism and supposed to form part of a collector’s fragrance wardrobe. I was intrigued by the link between insects and fragrance and like the butterfly that stole the butter, in my opinion FUMparFUM stole this year’s show with Cuir Dandy which is a soft suede with pipe tobacco, sensual florals and soft amber tones.

As you may have gathered, I have a penchant for the avant-garde and somewhat challenging perfumes. However now I will present you with a variety of fragrances of the highest quality and really hit my olfactive spot. Here are my Best of Show Esxence 2023 top ten perfumes to try.

Image of Gritti Kill The Lights courtesy of the brand.

Gritti Venetia Kill The Lights: A scent that blends fantastic young commercial appeal with vibrant colourful presentation. Slightly boozy up top with a gin accord courtesy of juniper, artemisia and davana, dries down with a soft leathery aspect which is smooth as silk. Perfumer Luca Gritti knows exactly what is required to engage consumers with this brand-new release for 2023.

Plume Impression, Royal Bourbon: The nose behind this fragrance is Amandine Galliano. This is a stunning gourmand which laces together cinnamon, licorice and ginger with rum, tobacco and caramel. It is no secret that I am a fan of the house, and this goes straight to the top of my list.

Francesca Bianchi, Byzantine Amber: Another smooth and chic amber scent with a triumvirate of leather, styrax and incense. Beautifully composed, performs fantastically as can be expected from a perfumer at the top of her game.

Ella K Camelia K: Floral, clean but also deeply sensual, Cameila K is Sonia Constant’s new fragrance for 2023 and it perfectly represents the rouge flacon with gold cap and embossed lettering. Smelling it sends me into a scarlet humid dawn to welcome in the day ahead.

In Astra Antares: Continues the floral theme. Perfumer Sophia Bardelli expertly creates white floral scents and Antares is such an addictive take on this genre. It has a slightly animalic aspect from the tuberose, but still retains a softness and also a creaminess from the sandalwood and lasts forever.

Cherigan Paris Fiesta Habana: A brand Emmanuelle and Ida covered in depth, Fiesta Habana is the new perfume inspired by the  parties and nightlife of the roaring 20’s. Made with pure Rhum essence, there is a marijuana accord and deep warming base from Madagascan Vanilla.

Kinetic Perfumes Aura: Kris Kinetic’s CEO introduced me to this fruity gourmand fragrance by Chris Maurice. The ultra-modern ruby monolithic flacon contains a scent blazing with red berries and florals. This is one for the energetic and clubbing crowd and makes the list based on its mass-appealing quality and beautiful presentation, plus the performance is huge for those who wish to make a statement.

Astrophil & Stella Nabati: Based on Arabic Bedouin Poetry this 2021 release by Christian Provenzano is a very complex creation. It is aquatic in the opening then veers into darker territory towards deep resins and oud. A masterpiece.

Ellen Dahlgren The Jester: A sparkling scent of happiness composed of citrus musks, a touch of neroli and light woods encapsulating the breeziness of summer on a coastal vacation. Love at first sniff.

Kajal Masa: New and launched at Esxence, the nose is Marc Daniel Heimgartner. The emerald bottle and silver top inlaid with green crystals reflect the composition well. It is a scintillating crunchy green citrus, which transitions to woods with cedar being prominent.

Other impressive scents I have already covered in my previous report – Etat Libre d’Orange Sous Le Pont Mirabeau, Jovoy Paris Musc Pallas and Parfums De Gabor Astronaut, which I loved.

Danu and Karl at LilaNur Parfums courtesy of the brand.

Best of Show Esxence 2023: OFF CAMPUS.

As massive as it was there were breaks to go off campus and here was the best-off campus.

Stephane Humbert Lucas, La Collection Serpent: Discussed in detail in my part 1 Report.

The NH Collection was the iconic location for new brands to showcase their novelties and I had the pleasure of meeting Paul Austin Co-Creator of LilaNur Parfums alongside Danu Seith-Fyr. 2023 is already an impactful year for the brand with two finalist nominations in the Fragrance Foundation UK Awards: ‘Best Newcomer’ and ‘Best Independent Fragrance’. As the name LilaNur suggests the fusion of divinity and light is evident in the vivid presentation of the perfumes and the strength of the compositions. The concept is to bring across fine fragrances using authentic Indian ingredients and reintroduce the tradition of scenting with attars. In addition, LilaNur has partnered up with the Rosabagh Foundation and Jasmine C.E. team to highlight social purpose in local community projects which plays a vital role in the values of LilaNur. Mali Insolite by Honorine Blanc was a surprising jasmine centric fragrance with an interesting clash of lush florals and sharper minerality.

Imagine navigating Esxence 2023 then being informed that your flight has been cancelled due to Italian Airport strikes, which I discovered on the Friday morning. This meant scurrying through airline options, and I eventually decided to extend my stay until the following Monday morning. On the penultimate evening I met with Georgiana L’Arome and Shane of Somens Barcelona. We discussed their Reminiscence and Legends Collection. Atlantis was my favourite as it reflected the balmy evening air. Slightly aquatic, sweet and woody – a head-turner for sure. The final night was spent discussing the impact of perfumery across the Middle East with Wassim Ghazi of Arcadie De Niche. Paradis Des Sens and Scentologia are both a part of his extensive portfolio, Cloud Nine being a really solid performing scent with an instantly recognisable fusion of East meets West.

So my trip came to an end with a 07.00 flight back to the UK. It was an unforgettable, exhilarating and exhausting experience but one I will look back on fondly for the people and perfumes which made Esxence 2023 truly special. I would like to give a special thanks to Silvio Levi and his team that put this gigantic event together, it was no mean feat! I hope you enjoyed my Best of Show Esxence 2023 articles.

Karl Topham, Senior Editor & UK Brand Ambassador

Thanks to the generosity of In Astra we have a discovery set of the collection in the USA, EU, and UK. To be eligible please leave a quality comment with which Best of Show Esxence 2023 fragrances could send you into scented heaven and where you live. Draw ends 04/ 21/2023.

Please read Nicoleta’s Best of Show Esxence 2023 here

Please read Danu’s Best of Show Esxence 2023 here

Stay tuned for Emmanuelle’s two part Best of Show Esxence over the next few days

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