Best Fragrances of 2023 (Ermano and Michelyn) + Part 1 Giveaway

Michelyn and Ermano Best Fragrances of 2023

Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief and Ermano Picco, Editor

For as long as ÇaFleureBon has been giving end of year Best Fragrance awards (2010)(2011), (2012), (2013)(2014), (2015), (2016) (2017), (2018), (2019) (2020), (2021) and (2022) there is always the question, “was this a good year for perfume”? We assure you despite living in a challenging and often divisive year, the Fragrances of 2023 were some of the best in quite some time as perfume lovers put aside politics to discover olfactive innovation and beauty. –Ermano Picco, Editor and Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Best fragrances of 2023

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Trends

Perfume through the Metaverse: More and more the Metaverse is impacting our every day lives, connecting us, bringing excitement and more awareness. Brands rarely exploited the concept which allows people from around the world to explore fragrance details from A (for advertising) to Z (for zeitgeist), passing by the “I” for ingredients, or the “S” for sustainability,  Enter AI and it becomes a powerful medium for immersive engaging storytelling as well as a continuous source of inspiration for what both customers and creators have only dared to dream about in their imagination. If last year Rook Perfumes, Dr. Nadeem Crowe’s The Scent of the Metaverse: Verse 1 limited edition was the “first NFT” fragrance ever created, this year the Agarthi Scent Core debut collection let its audience nosedive into the center of the Earth smelling a fabled Realm through impactful Metaverse generated video content. Inspired by this world, Mane Perfumers Cécile Matton, Alex Lee, Mathieu Nardin and Serge Majoullier created four bewitching scents leveraging  leading edge extractions and sustainable ingredients to render a unique “Metaversive” olfactory signature –Ermano Picco @agarthi_scentcore

Inclusivity and Diversity: The beauty of perfume is that it is for everyone but has not always sent that message. If the golden age of French Perfumery set a standard for masterful presentations, nowadays beauty has a higher meaning. Amplifying the sensorial experience in every way becomes more and more important in this sense to become as inclusive as possible, like the super tactile repackaging of Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero developed in collaboration with the Italian Union of the Blind that also features braille writings on the box.- Ermano Picco. @anthologieparfums

Remastering classic ingredients: vanilla, violet, tea and oud have been in the perfumer’s palette for decades. The best fragrances of 2023 used familiar ingredients in new and inventive ways and pairings. – Michelyn Camen

Best Perfume exhibition Esxence

Esxence 2023 Iridescent image by Karl©

Global fragrance exhibitions: We discovered some of the best fragrances of 2023… at fragrance fairs, now finally back in full swing. From Esxence Milan, Pitti Fragranze in Florence, TFWA Conference in Cannes, Beauty Instanbul, Barcelona Beautyworld Middle East, Scent Fair in Los Angeles and ScentXplore in New York City- Michelyn Camen

Refillable Bottles: Sustainability is more than ingredients. Brands like The Different Co., Olfactive Studio and designer brands are becoming more eco-conscious and offer refillable bottles.

Worst Trends: Launching new fragrances so late in the year, 2023, more than anytime I can remember. During the Pandemic many houses and perfumers had to close shop.  There was a lack of materials, and bottles, we understand but the December deluge is too much. –Michelyn Camen

Best fragrance of 2023 Roberto Greco Rauque

Best Fragrance of The Year 2023: Roberto Greco Rauque by Christopher Sheldrake delivers a full sensorial experience, immersive, beguiling, and even challenging. The creative duo reminds us that when an artist doesn’t take risks, there is only mediocrity. Rauque is a fragrance we cannot praise enough: heady narcissus and acacia blossoms melt into Russian leather and mystic myrrh, but it is also is an act of hope and courage in times when being true to yourself and fearlessly expressing creativity is often inversely related to the number of new launches. – Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco. @roberto___greco @christopher.sheldrake

Best Fragrances of 2023 Vanilla Powder

 I have a tie: Aurelien Guichard’s Matière Premiere Vanilla Powder, which is vanilla reimagined, combines artistry and innovation. It is composed with 40 percent powdered resins (most resins are liquid) and his signature overdose of a raw material, here, the richest natural Madagascar Vanilla Absolute is balanced by dry palo santo oil.-Michelyn Camen @matierepremiereparfums @aurelienguichard

 2023 Best Creative Directors Celine Verleure and Christopher Chong of Thameen

Celine Verleure and Christopher Chong courtesy of the Creative Directors

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Creative Director: Celine Verleure of Olfactive Studio and Christopher Chong of Thameen Fragrances

 While tea notes seem to pop up over the past few years, smoky notes are an upcoming trend, especially coupled with edible accords that add grown-up gourmand facets. Cleverly avoiding the easy caramelized background, and hiring independent perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, with Sépia Collection Smoky Soul, the first in a trilogy, “The Soul Of Teas”, Céline Verleure proved once more not only to be on trend, but to put the Art of Perfumery first. She has engaged the community ever since she started her project with Le Blog du parfum qui n’existe pas (encore), that later gave birth to Olfactive Studio. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

Ermano, I also think Christopher Chong of Thameen Fragrances is deserving of  Best Creative Director of 2023.  After resigning as Creative Director from Amouage in May of 2019, Christopher returned to the industry with great “Fanfare,” infusing new energy through storytelling and adding diversity and inclusiveness with style, while keeping the DNA of the British brand. Bravi Christopher-Michelyn

Best fragrances of 2023

 Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Fragrance you never heard of: Vandou and Cooquet by Alexx and  Anton and Jadon (Roots) by Fleur de Livvy
The best fragrance I never heard of was an unexpected encounter in Pitti Fragranze; the Berlin based creative duo coming from fashion Alexx and Anton that entered the perfume game with a limited-edition capsule collection of two fragrances, Vaudou and Coquet (Will Inrig). The inspiration is the golden boy and his path to adult consciousness. A gorgeous amber, the first blends sweet and mineral resins to smoky and leathery notes. Intensely floral with a bouquet of rose, ylang-ylang and carnation, the latter also bears an addictive unctuousness with solar and chypre hints. The ultimate chic though is the Japanese porcelain flacon with the classic parfum stopper you can use to let a few drops on your pulse points. – Ermano Picco @alexxandanton @coquetvaudou

I read about this brand in the Pitti Best of Show reports. I am eager to try their offerings. La Fleur by Livvy Jadon (which translates to roots in Hindi) was released at the A+O Scent Fair in Los Angeles May of 2023, by Olivia Larson the Indian born American natural perfumer and owner. Jadon by Fleur by Livvy received the International Perfume Foundation Brand of The Year 2023 (New Luxury Awards) at the #BPC Barcelona Perfumery Congress. Even with this exposure, Jadon is under the radar. Hopefully not any more. In an industry where authenticity and diversity are increasingly important, it is as if Olivia infused a piece of herself and her ancestry with each ingredient she chose. It is warm, cozy and spicy and truly pays homage to Olivia’s “roots” in Kolkata (Calcutta). Jadon opens with a beautiful lemon top note, then a cascade of spices, especially cardamom linger, the tonka bean is nut-like, not hay-like and the creamy, almost sweet aroma of Indian sandalwood is enhanced by a touch of frankincense. –Michelyn Camen @lafleurbylivvy

Frédéric Malle courtesy of the brand

Best Fragrances Of 2023 Best Niche House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

A little more than 20 years ago, I discovered niche perfumery. Everything was different from nowadays, starting from the number of point of sales and you had to be adventurous to spot a niche perfumery shop in Italy. One of the first in Europe was in Milan, a shop called Profumo that doesn’t exist anymore: they were one of the few retailers of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, the man who “published” perfumers like novelists. My first fragrance from the brand was  L’Eau d’Hiver. It’s been a fabulous journey from then, with highs and lows, but 2023 was undoubtedly a good one for Jean-Claude Ellena  who did it again with his fourth for the House, the stunning carnation laden iris of Heaven Can Wait. –Ermano Picco @fredericmalle

 Best Fragrances Of 2023 Independent House: Olfactive Studio

Olfactive Studio widens its Sépia Collection, now numbering seven with a perfume dedicated to tea (with two more to follow). Smoky Soul by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato focuses on Lapsang Suchong tea and the smoked bitterness of fermented leaves sublimating velvety osmanthus like never before, along with patchouli and savory seaweed absolute boosting a tremendously chic umami and chypre effect. This sets high standards for the upcoming two releases and makes not only our best creative director, but also our best Independent house for 2023.- Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

Meo Fusciuni best artisan perfumer of 2023

Best Fragrances of 2023 Artisan Perfume: Meo Fusciuni Parfums Viole Nere 

There are notes so lost in a glorious past to feel almost new, when seen through the magnifying lens of a creative perfumer and implemented with the top raw materials available today, they become modern. That is the case of carnation, but also for violet. Viole Nere is a new take on a nostalgic ingredient and its powdery veil leads to deeper meditations. Like a delicate misty garden suited for solitary morning walks, Meo Fusciuni succeeded in breathing new life to violet flowers, without seeming old-fashioned. – Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco @meofusciano_parfums

Christopher Sheldrake

Linked In photo

Best Fragrances Of 2023 Best Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

Christopher Sheldrake, who is also the perfumer who created Roberto Greco’s Rauque our best perfume of 2023. -Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen @christopher.sheldrake

Abel Black Anise

photo courtesy of Danu

Best Fragrances of 2023 Natural Perfume: Abel Fragrances Black Anise

Dark, sultry, and slipping on like a second skin, Black Anise changes something people don’t tend to associate with natural perfumes…tenacity. That’s why we invite everybody to smell Abel Black Anise, because it’s totally addictive. In-house perfumer Isaac Sinclair from Symrise teamed up with creative director Frances Shoemack to render a mystery tobacco accord where the vanilla-like  facets of bittersweet cocoa and lip-smacking blackcurrant render an intoxicating winey impression set against the  dryness of star anise. Yummy and deep, yet surprising –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen @abelfragrance

 

 Best fragrances of 2023

 Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Discovery: Scent Hunters

Due to the Ukranian-Russian conflict many people from East Europe couldn’t come to Italy for perfume shows as they used to do. Fortunately, a few could visit Milan at least and hand me one of the best discoveries of 2023. Scent Hunters is a new brand born from the knowledge and passion of eminent Russian Perfume collectors, experts, and fragrance enthusiasts Ekaterina Khmelevsky and Lyubov Berlyanskaya. They teamed up with perfumers Soizic Beaucourt, Elise Benat, Olaf Larsen, and Angeline Poubeau Leporini to release four perfumes condensing heritage and contemporary vibes. What I loved most is Pervertea (Soizic Beaucourt) which juxtaposes the sparkle of spiced citrusy tea and smoked oud and vetiver for a unique masculine fragrance. – Ermano Picco @scenthunters

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Natural Perfumer 2023: Isaac Sinclair and Mandy Aftel

Isaac Sinclair for Abel Black Anise-Ermano Picco

Isaac is brilliant but for me because he works in mixed media as well as naturals, my Best Natural Perfumer is Mandy Aftel.-Michelyn Camen

Kevin Mathys and Coralie Spicher

Kevin Mathys and Coralie Spicher

Best Fragrances of 2023 Rising Star: Coralie Spicher of Firmenich and Kevin Mathys of CPL Aromas

With  her first professional experience at Firmenich in Geneva in chromatography, Coralie Spicher recently graduated at the Firmenich Fine Fragrance perfumery school. While in Florence at Pitti Fragranze, I had the pleasure to meet this passionate young perfumer and discover her creation Nebulosa for the installation Symbiotic Experience (featuring also creations by Alberto Morillas, Serge Majoullier and Jerôme Di Marino). Set against the digital artwork from Gisella Alfieri Sabattini, the impressive fragrance by Coralie Spicher kept my nose literally glued to the sticky, glossy raspberry wrapped in plastic bubbles she rendered so vividly. She worked only on a projects by now, but keep your nose on her work in the next years, you won’t be disappointed.-Ermano Picco @coraliespicher

l first heard about young perfumer Kevin Mathys of CPL Aromas when Karl recently reviewed Scentologia Trace, but learned that he is the nose for Kajal IV when Nicoleta sung its praises (stay tuned). He also signed Fragrance du Bois – Voyage a Paris, Parfum de Moosie – Amber Obsession (which won a Silver Laurel Award for the Best Art Award at the Golden Osmanthus Award in China), and Electimuss Patchouli of the Underworld. Kevin was born in the northern countryside of France, lives in Dubai and has been focusing mostly on the Middle Eastern market since he started perfumery, but his fragrances are already creating a buzz everywhere. –Michelyn  Camen @kevin.mathys.perfumer @cpl_aromas

CaFleureBon Hernando Courtright and Ermano Picco

Hernando Courtright and Ermano “Picco-pedia”

MVPP (Most Valuable Perfume Person): ÇaFleureBon’s Ermano Picco and Hernando Courtright

MVPP to two of our own… Hernando Patrick Courtright has been the New York City brand ambassador since we began in 2010. He has transversed the five boroughs by foot, subway and bus, spending hours finding the best scents in this city. Hernando attends nearly every industry event, handing out cards and chatting up complete strangers about what we do. Recently he was in Los Angeles and searched out new and exciting shops. Thank you, H, for your hard work, team spirit, and fantastic writing. I don’t tell you often enough how much you mean to me and to ÇaFleureBon.

Editor Ermano Picco is now teaching Ancient Perfume History to the students of the Evaluator & Marketing Strategist Program Study at at the Italian Perfumery Institute in Milan as of December 18th with the first lesson about Perfumery in the Roman Empire to a class of roughly 30 young people. He told me,” I am really excited to see how engaged, curious and passionate they are about ancient raw materials and praised fragrances like the Regale Unguentum. These youngsters give me hope for a great future for Perfumery.” Congratulations Professor Picco- Michelyn Camen

Jean-Paul Gaultier Divine Eau de Parfum

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Bottle: Jean Paul Gaultier Divine EDp and Robert  Greco Rauque

Jean-Paul Gaultier Divine Eau de Parfum bottle is the amazing Star Wars rendition of the iconic Gaultier corset, perfectly fit for a brand-new feminine counterpart of C3-PO. May the scent be with you! – Ermano Picco

Ermano, the bottle looks to me EXACTLY like Madonna’s corset that indeed was designed by Gaultier in 1990-Michelyn Camen

Special mention to Cartier that updated its iconic La Panthère bottle making it more sustainable by reducing the bottle’s waste and plastic use; this way the flacon becomes a 94% recyclable material. Moreover, the fragrance uses 100% plant-based alcohol now. Because real luxury unquestionably means sustainable nowadays.

Best fragrance of 2023 Roberto Greco Rauque

My best bottle is Roberto Greco Rauque. Art holds art.-Michelyn Camen

Fragrances of 2023 Worst Bottle

Nasomatto Sadonaso limited edition – Unless you’re adding new meaning on top of what artists like Louise Bourgeois already did, in 2023 a penis shaped cap is closer to cut-rate marketing or boring pornography than to experiential design. – Ermano Picco

Best fragrances of 2023

 

 

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Limited Edition: Parfum d’Empire Eau de Gloire Cologne

Parfum d’Empire Eau de Gloire Cologne was a stunning limited-edition release by perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato to celebrate the 20th anniversary of his brand. The cologne brought freshness, energy and sunshine with laurel and sunny citrus fruits and it is once more a tribute to his beloved birthplace, Corsica. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

 Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Experimental Scent: We Are Future Society

Special mention to a project we haven’t smelt yet, but that intrigued us as we recently read about its experimental approach. We Are Future Society is a perfume brand which wanted to resurrect extinct flowers and use them to create fragrances built around them. Of course there’s a lot of science behind that, and after sequencing the DNA of extinct flower samples from Harvard Herbarium, they collaborated with Givaudan perfumers Daniela Andrier, Jerôme Epinette, and Olivia Jan to bring these lost blooms back to life. We look forward to putting our noses on them soon-Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen @futuresociety.

Zara Popeline Blanche

Popeline Blanche image courtesy of Zara

Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Bang For The Buck

Zara A Perfume by Olivia Giacobetti. If you ever looked for a top-notch laundry-chic perfume for the price of a laundry detergent, in 2023 check out one of the four Giacobetti creations for Zara. They are reminiscent of Junx, her discontinued brand that many aficionados wish was still available. The chicest and cleanest of them all is Popeline Blanche, a flawless musky cologne. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

The Museum of Scent by Mandy Aftel

Best Fragrances of 2023: Best (fragrance) Book: The Museum of Scents – Exploring the Curious & Wondrous World Of Fragrances

Mandy Aftel’s The Museum of Scent, which was written and illustrated by Mandy, is not only educational, informative and beautifully presented, it is a magical journey through the earliest history of perfume, a deep dive into scent families, ingredients and written in the first person as if Mandy Aftel was speaking to you. Mandy, on a personal note, my bookmark that was attached to the inside back cover is “Clary Sage,” known for its stress reducing and calming aroma. I have scratched and sniffed it often, yet I can still smell its warm, sweet herbaceous scent.-Michelyn Camen

It’s a tie between “Germaine Cellier – L’audace d’une parfumeuse” Comics book by Béatrice Égémat (illustrated by Sandrine Revel) and Mandy Aftel’s “The Museum of Scents – Exploring the Curious & Wondrous world of fragrances”. Both highly entertaining and educational. –Ermano Picco

Roberto Greco and Christopher Sheldrake

Roberto Greco (Far Left) and Christopher Sheldrake (R)

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Collaboration: Christopher Sheldrake and Roberto Greco

Star perfumer Christopher Sheldrake has rarely teamed up for artistic projects, so chapeau to our friend Roberto Greco for creating a breathtaking photographic series together with Rauque, a mesmerizing scent that took almost two years in the making –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

Nick Steward of Gallivant

Best Fragrances of 2023 Hardest Working Person in Perfume: Nick Steward of Gallivant

Nick has been gallivanting all over the world finding inspiration for his collection of travel inspired fragrances since 2017. In 2023, he has been to 17 countries, exploring or meeting with fragrance lovers. Sound glamourous? Nick Steward makes every single sample by hand with his parents and then packs and posts all the orders. Nick has added Home Fragrances this fall/autumn – 3 candles and diffusers – all made in the countryside just outside London (inspired by his perfumes, Istanbul, London and Los Angeles). He added roll-on perfumed oils as well, which is great for traveling. If you visit London, be sure to make an appointment to visit his studioMichelyn Camen

Best fragrances of 2023

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Home Fragrance: QHUE Lifestyle and Meo Fusciuni Home Fragrances

The Ombreance collection by QHUE Lifestyle, which I discovered a few months ago in Florence. Not only are they presented a fresh take on room fragrances with the mineral greenery of Intro Vert, but the line also offers a avant-garde design for reel diffusers. –Ermano Picco @QHUElifestyle

Meo Fusciuni new room fragrances were born from the need to give an olfactory memory to the environment around us, to give it a name, an intensity, an emotion, just as he does with his perfumes. There are currently three: Nottetempo smells of burnt wood and is smoky, inspired by an old Jazz club and evenings spent with friends. Penombra has a soft, serene wood aroma and if it had a color, it would be white. Calura is Meo’s childhood memory of a morning by the sea, steps away from his home in Sicily, sea notes blending with a bergamot tea. –Michelyn Camen @meofusciuni_parfums

via CHANEL

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Ad: CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle featuring Canadian actress Whitney Peak. This is the first time the most iconic French fashion house releases a fragrance advertisement showing a young, empowered black woman. And we love it!!! That’s why this makes our best ad. -Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

Francis Kurkdjian

courtesy of M. Kurkdjian

Best Fragrances of 2022 Best Designer Fragrance: J’Adore L’Or by Francis Kurkdjian

Rewriting the codes of an iconic success like J’Adore was not an easy task. Doing it as the first mass release since the appointment as in-house perfumer was even harder, but Francis Kurkdjian not only reconnected with the original  creator, perfumer Calice Becker to better get into the original spirit of the perfume, he also succeeded in infusing the new J’Adore l’Or with his personal touch. Greener than the previous flankers, J’Adore L’Or brings back the juicy crispness of the original taming the florals, which now seamlessly blend with a mass appealing ambery base without falling in the generic “cake.” That is why our Best Designer fragrance is Christian Dior J’Adore L’Or. –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

TLY 7555 perfume

Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Celebrity fragrance:  Troye Sivan TLY 7555 and Beyoncé’ Cé Noir 

From an unashamed perfumista like Australian actor and singer Troye Sivan we could expect nothing but good fragrances. It’s the case of his debut perfume line Tsu Lange Yor (which in Yiddish means For Many Years,  a tribute to his grandma’s roots), and in particular TLY 5755 developed in collaboration Craig Andrade of the Raconteur. Peppery, bracingly aromatic with shiso leaves, and cocooning like a musky blanket of Australian sandalwood, the fragrance features various raw materials sourced in Australia. Last but not least,the flacon is amazing and revives the 1990s edgy aesthetic à la Helmut Lang. –Ermano Picco.

via Instagram

The Beyhive has been buzzing about Cé Noir, Beyoncé’s first new perfume in nearly a decade. As the “undisclosed” perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui, (who confirmed that she is the nose), quipped on Instagram “Queens smell like honey” and, may I add, roses dipped in a gold amber “Halo” glow.- Michelyn Camen

 

Best fragrances of 2023

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Perfume You Want To Drink Or Eat

April Aromatics latest release Coco n’Amour smells so luscious and tridimensional that it feels like having a break with coconut macaroons and a refreshing glass of coconut water. It is actually the snack I have during my gluten detox periods, and it’s incredible that a natural perfume can render it in such a yummy, hyper-realistic way. –Ermano Picco @aprilaromatics

State Of Mind Fanfarone Italiano: The newest perfume from State of Mind debuted at Esxence 2023, and I want to drink it, not spritz it. Fanfarone Italiano smells like you dipped a chocolate covered biscotti into the richest dark ristretto coffee-Michelyn Camen @stateofmind.fr

Best Fragrances of 2023 Neo-Vintage: Aftelier Perfumes Hey Jude and Cherigan Fiesta Habana
I am totally a fan of antique roses for they have a unique smell, and of the work breeders like David Austin did creating such poetic and intensely fragrant roses as well. When I first read about Mandy Aftel creating a fragrance inspire by Jude the Obscure, one of the most renowned Austin roses, I was so excited. Aftelier Hey Jude keeps all the promises delivering a velvety, pulpy, and peachy rose tinged with subtle greenery that fades to the most gorgeous animalic honey purring in powdery leather rather than roaring. Such refined multiple layers convey all the way glorious roses from the past without explicitly quoting any; the mellowness of Lancome Trésor (1990) meets here the flawless chypresque balance of the original feminine Fendi (1985). Could we ask for more? That’s why Hey Jude is my Best Neo-Vintage fragrance for 2023. – Ermano Picco

Cherigan Paris Fiesta Habana

I adored Aftelier Hey Jude, but it wasn’t a neo-vintage for me. My choice is Fiesta Habana from the re-founded House of Cherigan, an homage to Hemingway’s “The Sun also Rises” and Havana, Cuba. The scent of a hot tropical night, cannabis, tobacco, and rum transport me to the late 1920s.  –Michelyn Camen @cheriganparis

Most Disappointing Perfume: It’s a category. I haven’t seen so many perfumes marketed as “Smells Like” since the 1980s. They are back and there is even a “brand” named Smells-A-Like. Don’t be duped-Michelyn Camen

Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Flanker: Jacques Fath L’Iris de Fath eau de parfum

Not really a flanker, but a different embodiment of a masterpiece, Jacques Fath L’Iris de Fath eau de parfum. Creative Director Rania Naim along with Perfumer Patrice Revillard worked nearly two years to bring a more accessible, yet still fabulous rendition of L’Iris de Fath. Bravo! – Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

Best fragrances of 2023 

Best Fragrances of 2023: Best Fragrance Name

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait, a hymn to live life at best after a few tough years.- Ermano Picco.

Heaven can Wait, but meanwhile Laboratorio Olfattivo Miss_U sums up how I felt much of 2023 because due to circumstances I was unable to get together with friend-in-fragrance and members of our team.. See_U next year. –MIchelyn Camen

Julien Rasquinet of CPL Aromas

Julien Rasquinet courtesy of Julien

Best Buzz: Julien Rasquinet joins CPL Aromas

Senior Perfumer Julien Rasquinet leaving International Flavors & Fragrances after nearly a decade marked by incredible perfumes joined the family-owned company CPL Aromas. We are so excited to smell what’s next and wish you continued success-Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco @julienrasquinet

 

Best Fragrances of 2023 Hall of Fame: Ulrich Lang of Ulrich Lang New York and Perfumer Jean Amic (R.I.P)

The first person in niche perfumery I interviewed back in my early blogging days was a charming German born New York based art dealer and photographer who created his independent perfume brand a few years before. I was young and pretty tongue-tied with my bad English, but Ulrich Lang was so nice to me that I remember how engaging and fun our talk was. Celebrating 20 years of Ulrich Lang New York in 2023, after many successful perfumes he introduced the latest youthful and peachy Suncrest. Uli, as friends call him, is still the same laid-back man, always smiling, always traveling, always on the creative ball! –Ermano Picco @ulrichlang_newyork

R.I.P. Jean Amic (1935 – 2023) Last April the perfume industry lost one of the most eminent figures of the second half of the last century. A direct descendant of the founder of the Roure company created in 1820 later become Givaudan, Monsieur Amic set the breeding ground of creativity that gave birth to planetary hits like He is at the origin of great successes such as Rive Gauche and Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, Poison by Christian Dior, Obsession by Calvin Klein and Loulou by Cacharel. Combining a unique commercial sense with a deep knowledge of perfume design supported by a remarkable sense of smell, he also nurtured under his team a generation of talents like Calice Becker, Nathalie Feisthauer, and many others. –Ermano Picco

Ramon Monegal and Barb Stegemann

Ramón Monegal of Ramon Monegal Perfumes and Barb Stegemann of The 7 Virtues

Best Fragrances of 2023 Hall of Fame: Ramón Monegal of Ramon Monegal Perfumes and Barb Stegemann of The 7 Virtues

How many niche fragrance houses can tout 100 years of composing fine perfumery? Spanish Perfumer Ramon Monegal is the 4th generation of the Monegal family, founders of Myrurgia (Maja being one of the most famous perfumes of all time). Ramón Monegal has crafted approximately 160 perfumes (excluding home fragrances). His initial creations, such as Don Algodón and those for Adolfo Domínguez, continue to be timeless and are still available today. He worked for various brands, (including Myrurgia) before starting his eponymous brand in in 2011. There are approximately 47 in the collection and most can be purchased online, at stockists and some are sold only in his boutique in Barcelona. Senor Monegal is inspired by the beauty of his native country, using ingredients to tell scented stories of terroir and his own experiences. Each is composed of materials that Senor Monegal uses like words, wafting from the distinctive bottle which looks like an old-fashioned inkwell. –Michelyn Camen @ramonmonegalperfume

I was introduced to The 7 Virtues by Deputy Editor Tama Blough in 2013 (RIP), who wrote, “The words “sustainability” and “fair trade” are bandied about quite often lately, mostly in the area of food and farming. But what do they mean for perfumery? A new Canadian-based company called The 7 Virtues is working to bring those practices to the manufacture of scent.” Founded in 2010 by entrepreneur, global women’s rights activist, motivational speaker, creative director and author Barb Stegemann, The 7 Virtues was born from a promise made in a hospital room. Stegemann’s best friend, a CIMIC officer, inspired her to carry forward his mission of peace after being wounded during discussions about providing essential resources to an Afghan village. This promise fueled her bestselling book “The 7 Virtues of a Philosopher Queen (A Woman’s Guide To Living & Leading in an Illogical World)”, now in its 8th edition and the first book ever to be sold in Sephora. Barb became known to millions of Canadians when she went on to become the first woman from Atlantic Canada to land a venture-capital deal on the CBC TV show Dragons’ Den and the “Top Game Changer” in the history of the show. Her story has sparked international attention and is the subject of the critically acclaimed documentary Perfume War, which won Best Humanitarian Film at the Sedona Film Festival and Audience Choice at the Sonoma Film Festival. The 7 Virtues is sold exclusively at Sephora across 17 countries, and recently became the first fragrance brand to receive an investment from Unilever Ventures and True Beauty Ventures.  Just a week ago on Instagram, Barb wrote, “It was such an emotional and beautiful day on the floor at Sephora this week, when a client who had not been able to smell any perfume since she had Covid  was able to smell Santal Vannille and Cherry Ambition.”-Michelyn Camen @the7virtues @barbstegemann

For our Best Fragrances of 2023 Giveaway Part 1

Best fragrance of 2023 Roberto Greco Rauque

Grazie Mille to Roberto Greco for a 80 ml bottle of Roberto Greco Rauque to one registered reader in Europe only. You must register here for your comment to count and live in Europe. Please state that in your comment.

Abel Black Anise

Thanks to the generosity of Frances Shoemack and Abel, we have a 50ml bottle of Black Anise for one registered reader in EU, UK, US (contiguous), NZ and Australia (register here if you have not already done so), which you would like to win and where you live. Draw closes 12/28/2023

Let us know what you think of our Best Fragrances 2023 Part 1. What in particular sparked your interest?

We will be back with our top ten soon, as well as over the next days, Ida, Lauryn, Nicoleta, J Wearescentient, Karl, Michael, Rachel K. Ng, Danu, Hernando, Sandi, Steven and Olya will award their favorites from 2023. There will be MANY DRAWS.

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We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our blog feed, or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

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67 comments

  • What particularly sparked my interest was the Vanilla Powder and it’s “vanilla reimagined”. US

  • Never heard of We Are Future Society the perfume brand which wanted to resurrect extinct flowers and use them to create fragrances around them. The fact that there’s so much science behind it, and after sequencing the DNA of extinct flower samples from Harvard Herbarium, they collaborated with Givaudan perfumers to bring these extinct blooms back to life. The concept of possibly trying one of these creations is exciting and something to look forward to. Thank you for the opportunity. New York, USA.

  • Not entering this time, just wanted to share my thoughts on the matter.
    I’m not exactly on the same page with Michelyn and Ermano about a lot of their Best os 2023 choices, but I can’t help but to acknowledge the hard work, if I have to guess it took you a couple of days to comprise the whole thing.
    Also I’m reading Michelyn Best of the year the the 6th time , 18′ was the first one… 6 years passed by … so fast 🙂 Thank you Michelyn for all the fine time I had here
    Refillable Bottles , A lot of other brands are offering refillable bottles Sarah McCartney from 4160Tuesdays for example. Good initiative imo

    Best Fragrances Of 2023 Best Niche House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

    I was expecting way more from Heaven Can Wait , to me smells like more powdery love child of Cuir d’Ange by Hermés and Bois d’Iris by The Different Company (both again composed by Jean-Claude Ellena ) and with additional plum.

    Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Experimental Scent: We Are Future Society
    Interesting project

    Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Perfume You Want To Drink Or Eat
    State Of Mind Fanfarone Italiano:

    Fantastic gourmand, one of the best for 2023

    Best Fragrances of 2023 Best Flanker: Jacques Fath L’Iris de Fath eau de parfum

    Good choice, remarkable iris.

    “along with Perfumer Patrice Revillard worked nearly two years….”
    Not sure who’s right or wrong, but my memory is really good and I remember how Emmanuelle Varron stated that Patrice Revillard worked for four years to compose more pocket friendly version of the wildly considered to be one the the best iris fragrances ever made L’Iris de Fath L’Extrait .

    Good luck everyone

  • I love this time of the year to see everyone wrap up of the year. I’ve been trying to get a sample of Vanilla Powder, my usual shop has been sold out. I literally tested Meo’s violet perfume yesterday. I LOVED it, but not sure I need another Violet in my collection. That “worst bottle” has my vote. Black Anise sounds amazing. Thanks for the chance. Happy New Year to all. USA.

  • This year I did not do so much discovery work of new fragrances, like I did in the past years, but rather focused on exploring vintages like Dior Addict, Gucci Eau de Parfum 2002 and so on. I hope I will be catching up with the trends in the next year as I already have some of the fragrances listed in this article on my to try list.
    I am in Europe and I would go for Rauque if I am lucky enough to win. I like the concept behind this fragrance, but also because some years ago I had the pleasure of doing a business with Roberto and I must say that, through him, I discovered one of my beloved fragrances ever – Puredistance M – on which I am now on my third bottle. So it is also a preference of winning ‘the person’, not only the creation of that certain individual.
    Thanks for the article and for the giveaway!

  • The standouts from the list were: bottle design: the Jean Paul Gaultier Divine Eau de Parfum bottle design update which does, indeed, reflect the iconic Madonna corset of the 90 aka, Blonde Ambition. For Trends of 2023, remastering classic notes for a modern take, made for some interesting new scents that new generations can appreciate. and for me, the best ad: CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE the catchy song “Follow Me” by Amanda Lear really elevated the look and feel of the ad. USA

  • This caught my attention. Not just the notes or it being Best Fragrance of The Year 2023. The bottle is such an eye catcher. Roberto Greco Rauque by Christopher Sheldrake. Too many fragrances to choose from but this one is definitely up there.

    Los Angeles Ca USA

  • Wow, the fragrance scene in 2023 seems incredibly diverse and innovative! I’m particularly intrigued by the intersection of technology and scent through the Metaverse, like the Agarthi Scent Core’s debut collection and Rook Perfumes’ NFT fragrance. It’s fascinating how AI and immersive storytelling are being utilized to create unique olfactory experiences.

    The emphasis on inclusivity and diversity is fantastic, especially with initiatives like Anthologie’s collaboration with the Italian Union of the Blind, making fragrance more accessible. It’s heartening to see the industry expanding its horizons to cater to a broader audience.

    The reinvention of classic ingredients like vanilla, violet, tea, and oud in new and inventive ways sounds promising. Refillable bottles becoming more prevalent is a step in the right direction for sustainability in the fragrance world.

    The mention of late-year fragrance launches in 2023 being a downside due to material shortages during the pandemic is understandable. It must have posed significant challenges for perfumers and houses.

    Lastly, the standout fragrances like Roberto Greco’s Rauque and Aurelien Guichard’s Vanilla Powder, along with the recognition of creative directors like Celine Verleure and Christopher Chong, speak volumes about the industry’s pursuit of excellence and innovation.

    Mandy Aftel’s “The Museum of Scents” and the collaboration between Christopher Sheldrake and Roberto Greco showcase the creativity and depth within the industry.

    It’s an exciting time for fragrances, and these trends and creations indicate a vibrant and evolving landscape in the world of scent.

    Thank you for such an article!

    I live in Europe (EU) – Germany and would be happy to win either black anise by Abel or Roberto Greco Rauque, they both sound absolutely gorgeous!

  • FragranceIsMe says:

    I enjoyed learning about trending notes in perfumery. Each and every note mentioned are all one’s that I have a strong appreciation for 🙂

    Black Anise by Abel sounds wonderful. This is not a fragrance house that I am familiar with. Thank you for the introduction. Should I win the giveaway, Black Anise is one I look forward to getting my nose on.
    USA

  • Christopher Sheldrake is one of my favorite perfumer and I’ve read so many amazing things about #Rauque. And mushroom notes in a scent?! Come on, thats amazing.
    As always, thank you for the giveaway and merry Christmas to everyone.
    I’m from Germany (EU).

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    Exciting times indeed and finally to begin reading the prestigious and long-awaited awards from teh Cafleurebon team. A wonderful and insightful read. I am intruigued by Future Society and fascinated that we may be able to smell scents that have been long lost. A real treasure trove and one I hope to smell soon enough. Bravo to all those creative genuises and beautiful perfumes written about here. I would love to win Rauque, thank you. I live in SW France.

  • The one that sparked my interest was Rauque so I’m hoping that Europe includes the U.K. But then I hope that regularly!

  • I really like your top because you haven’t forgotten the small independent and artisanal brands that don’t necessarily make the headlines on social networks. But who nevertheless works every day to advance artistic perfumery. I’m thinking of Mandy Aftel, Tanja Bochnig, Meo Fusciuni, Jacques Fath, Abel.
    I would like to win Rauque because I admire the talent of Roberto Greco and Christopher Sheldrake. I live in France, EU.

  • Fantastic article! I always look forward to reading about your favorites. I do enjoy Ramon Monegal fragrances and the creativity of meo fusciuni . I would love to sniff Black Anise from Abel. Thank you. Mich USA

  • I live in Europe. 🙂 I was especially fascinated to read that Julien Rasquinet joined CPL, which was new to me.

  • I am a huge lover of all things gourmand, and I’ve been really loving the wonderful gourmand offerings this year. But weirdly I have gone back to basics and developed. Huge love for Guerlain. In maryland.

  • It was interesting to read about the trends such as remastering classic ingredients and using refillable bottles. I think it started few years ago and is still ongoing. The new Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul sounds really creative with the smoky tea accords. Also, the natural perfume Black Anise is really intruiging. I would like to win this one by Abel. Thanks for the nice overview! Greetings from EU.

  • *Correction
    I’d like to correct myself, in my earlier post I mentioned Sarah McCartney from 4160Tuesdays. She’s offering, one of the first by the way , the option to send her your old 4160Tuesdays bottle, by mail or bring it directly to her workshop , and she’ll refill it for a cheaper price. That’s what I meant, she’s not offering refillable bottles/cans so you can do it on your own at home.

  • I would like to win a 80 ml bottle of Roberto Greco Rauque. I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU. I am registered. The story aboit fair trade in perfumery really sparked my interest because I didn’t really think about it to be honest.

  • Interesting and unique choices for best of 2023 fragrances. I’m most intrigued about the rediscovering classic notes trend. Using familiar ingredients in innovative ways is something I love to see. I’m an anise/licorice/absinthe fan, so Abel’s Black Anise is definitely in my wheelhouse. MD, USA.

  • Wow other then the new Roberto Greco ( which I still haven’t tried) I did not even hear for most of the fragrances on this list! I will need to correct this! I hope the limited edition category will also mention Tauer Nexon in one of the following posts. I was lucky to sample it and it blew my mind! Black Anise does seem very intriguing. Overall I really like anise note and the combination with tobacco and cocoa sounds great! I’m from Illinois US.

  • wandering_nose says:

    Thank you Michelyn and Ermano! This was as informative as it was interesting. There are a number of things which piqued my interest. I have been on top of the new perfume releases at Zara in the past couple of months but missed Popeline Blanche – must have been sold out at the time of my visits which is nothing new with them! I need to say I have not seen the Coco Mademoiselle ad with Whitney Peak but it is absolutely fantastic – bold and beautiful. I have heard about Kevin Mathys while first discovering Kajal IV at CaFleureBon, and I believe he is really worth following. I will keep an eye on the works by Coralie Spicher – the glossy raspberry wrapped in plastic bubbles she authored sounds so futuristically delicious! The bottle of Roberto Greco Rauque is all I love in a fragrance flacon – different, eye catching, daring and memorable. Love the color scheme used and I believe it accurately reflects the aura of the scent. This would be my pick. Thank you! I am in Europe.

  • The description for Rauque sounds right up my alley: Rauque delivers a full sensorial experience, immersive, beguiling, and even challenging.
    I love what Sheldrake has done for Serge Lutens so I am somewhat familliar with his work and I wonder how he interprets a fragrance for another brand.
    Thanks from Europe and Merry Christmas!

  • We had quite a year in perfume. As Michelyn stated, it was a bit divisive in some regards, but that’s what makes this hobby so fun. I think one of the coolest things I learned in this article was thee brand We Are Future Society – wow, what an intriguing concept. Will definitely be trying some of their offerings once they are available. Best of luck to all. Would love the opportunity to have Black Anise in my collection. I live in NC, USA.

  • Thank you for this very thoughtful look at some of the more unique trends in perfumery from 2023! It is wonderful that you recognize Christoper Chong’s review to the fragrance world, I know so many of us are overjoyed to have him back creating again. And after having smelled Rauque by Roberto Greco I completely agree that it deserves the highest praise, another huge hit from this house! I would adore a bottle of this to go with the other two I own and love. Thank you for the draw and Happy Holidays! US

  • I always love to read about Mandy Aftel’s and Christopher Sheldrake’s work – two of my favourite perfumers. I am a naturals enthusiast but this is my first time hearing about Frances Shoemack’s Abel. I would love to try Black Anise.
    I am in Australia (with Mandy’s new book in my lap! A cherished Christmas gift).

  • I’d like to enter for Black Anise by Abel. I live in Maryland, USA.

    Is like to try Black Anise because it’s the best natural fragrance. I would also like to smell a sample of Fanfarone Italiano. I’ve never smelled a fragrance with a similar profile.

  • Thank you for your work and your dedication to the scent world. I would be happy to win Rauque from Roberto Greco, it’s so hard to find a sample in Europe. I live in Europe.

  • I had the pleasure of meeting Nick from Gallivant Perfumes through this site, and I can confirm he’s the hardest worker! Overall I can only agree on how fantastic the year has been (new Frederic Malle especially was dreamy), and how bad the Sadonaso bottle is
    I’d love to try Black Anise and enter the draw for it from Spain (EU). I’m obsessed with liquorice and anise notes so it sounds more than perfect!

  • I really enjoy these posts as they tend to do a really good job giving an overview of the year for fragrances and helps me keep up with newer niche fragrances. Congratulations Ermano Picco for MVPP. I usually love the Nasomatto bottles (might genuinely be my favorite) with the wood tops, but Sadonaso is a great pick for this years worst bottle. Gotta agree with MIchelyn on the “smells like” category, it’s usually marketed as a replacement for the real thing but often has issues with performance or dry down compared to the real thing. Overall some great picks by Ermano and Michelyn. Would love to win a bottle of Frances Shoemack and Abel‘ Black Anise.
    From USA.

  • One of my favorite activities is picking mushrooms. I love their taste, texture, and above all, their smell. I also associate it with the perfume ingredient. That’s why I was most intrigued by Rauque’s composition. The notes are truly fascinating. And this beautiful bottle, very refined symmetry, wonderful combination of color. From Poland.

  • Shibuichi2000 says:

    Head’s spinning reading about so many scents, concepts, perfumers – this is such a rich world.
    Congrats to Ermano, I’m sure he’ll be amazing in this new adventure.
    Curious about the scents composed by Olivia Giacobetti for Zara, hmmm…how could I miss those
    I’m in EU.

  • A really informative article, very well written and with tons of important details about the many different categories and parfum choices. Personally, I was really interested about Fiesta Habana from the re-founded House of Cherigan, being from Habana myself I felt really connected with the name, the notes and now the brand too. In fact I’ll love to smell it for reminiscence purposes only. Commenting from Orlando,Fl.USA.

  • The end of year best ofs are so much fun to read always. I loved the diversity and the touching of many subjects, as well as so many names ranging from J’adore l’or to totally new names for me.
    Would love to win either Rauque or Black anise. I’d love to smell the narcissus, acacia and myrrh in the first (acacia is so underrated) and the tobacco-vanilla-cocoa in the second. Such a classic combo and so voluptuous.
    Thanks Michelyn and Ermano for a great read.
    I live in Europe (EU).

  • In this year I could not try any new fragrance, because in my city there is not any fragrance shop where allowed customers to spray perfumes. If I would be the lucky winner, I would chose Roberto Greco Rauque. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • The whole list was an amazingly fleshed out evaluation of these amazing fragrances. Rauque, as praised by Michelyn Camen and Ermano Picco, emerges as a truly captivating fragrance that offers a complete sensory experience. The duo’s emphasis on its immersive, beguiling, and challenging nature highlights its distinctiveness in the world of perfumery. The reminder that artistic risks are essential to avoiding mediocrity positions Rauque as a bold and daring creation. The fusion of heady narcissus and acacia blossoms with Russian leather and mystic myrrh adds a layer of complexity, promising a fragrance that is both rich and harmonious. Beyond its olfactory appeal, Rauque is acknowledged as an act of hope and courage, standing out in an industry often saturated with conventional launches. The juxtaposition of such courage against the backdrop of a multitude of new releases makes Rauque a standout fragrance, urging individuals to stay true to themselves in the face of industry trends. In the hands of Roberto Greco and Christopher Sheldrake, Rauque becomes not just a scent but an artistic statement that challenges norms and invites wearers to embark on a distinctive olfactory journey. Additionally the bottle is amazing and out of the ordinary as well.

  • Dark, sultry, and slipping on like a second skin, Black Anise changes something people don’t tend to associate with natural perfumes…tenacity. That’s why we invite everybody to smell Abel Black Anise, because it’s totally addictive. In-house perfumer Isaac Sinclair from Symrise teamed up with creative director Frances Shoemack to render a mystery tobacco accord where the vanilla-like facets of bittersweet cocoa and lip-smacking blackcurrant render an intoxicating winey impression set against the dryness of star anise. Yummy and deep, yet surprising –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen @abelfragrance. A beautiful description by Ermano and Michelyn really intrigued by the notes especially star anise, vanilla and tobacco this sounds like a magical concoction. A really fascinating and riveting piece excited to try Roberto Greco. If I am lucky to win I would love to win Star Anise by Abel. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Dark, sultry, and slipping on like a second skin, Black Anise changes something people don’t tend to associate with natural perfumes…tenacity. That’s why we invite everybody to smell Abel Black Anise, because it’s totally addictive. In-house perfumer Isaac Sinclair from Symrise teamed up with creative director Frances Shoemack to render a mystery tobacco accord where the vanilla-like facets of bittersweet cocoa and lip-smacking blackcurrant render an intoxicating winey impression set against the dryness of star anise. Yummy and deep, yet surprising –Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen @abelfragrance. This sounds like a beautiful fragrance I would love to if I am successful. Great picks by both Michelyn and Ermano so hard to pick my favourites from there respective lists. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • This article has opened my eyes to the Abel brand and to their other offerings. Anise and tobacco! I’ve been familiar to the smell but more of the taste of star anise but mix that somewhat sweet smell to me with the tobacco, now you’ve got me hooked. I like these lists that give me more insight into the world of perfumery that I most likely would have missed, from scents to scent makers, from bottomless to brands, such delightful reading overall!

  • This article has opened my eyes to the Abel brand and to their other offerings. Anise and tobacco! I’ve been familiar to the smell but more of the taste of star anise but mix that somewhat sweet smell to me with the tobacco, now you’ve got me hooked. I like these lists that give me more insight into the world of perfumery that I most likely would have missed, from scents to scent makers, from bottomless to brands, such delightful reading overall! I’d like to win black anise and hailing from Portland Oregon

  • I really enjoy Sadonaso, sounds interesting, deep and unique. Thank you for the extensive reviews on these great fragrances.
    John from USA

  • Thanks for the fascinating overview! Rauque by Roberto Greco had sparked my interest even before you guys named it the best of the year. I am going to have to seek out a sample! I’m also intrigued by the trend of refillable bottles: A good idea, I think, as it is such a shame, not to mention wasetful, to throw out a pretty perfume bottle!
    I’m in WV, USA, so I’d like to enter the drawing for Black Anise by Abel, which sounds lovely.

  • avstjalpningscentral says:

    In the vase sea of fragrance-releases I’m certain established reviewers – like the ones here on cafleurbon – provide an immense service for the community, helping so many of us by shining light on the pearls one might miss; and what better way than a “Best of year”-list.

    Due to the overwhelming amount of releases I’m still catching up with yesteryears, where Prin Lomros Onthamara being my personal stand out: forresty and soily darkness – complete with a fleeting smoke – enshrouded by a furry musk at its finest. With that in mind, I suppose it’s not a complete surprise why Rauque seems to be the most intriguing one for me of the mentions above: “immersive” and “challenging”, concocted with the help of no other than Christopher Sheldrake. It sure struck a cord within me. Seeing as Sheldrake introduced me to – for what later become love of – agrestic and animalic fragrances so long ago, it would be lovely to see how he approaches similar themes these days, when he is once again free to experiment. With its splendid bottle, Rauque would definitely be my choice if this comment were to be chosen. EU-based.

  • Thank you for this “Best of”compilation!
    What particularly sparked my interest was the description of RAUQUE by Roberto Greco: “full sensorial experience, immersive, beguiling, and even challenging. (..) Heady narcissus and acacia blossoms melt into Russian leather and mystic myrrh”, and there are also mushrooms!
    BLACK ANISE by Abel also sounds very interesting.

    I live in the EU and want to participate in the draw for both – Rauque Roberto Greco and Black Anise Abel, amazing giveaway!

  • What an amazing and thorough listing of so many notable fragrance-related things from the past year! My interest was particularly sparked by the “Best Fragrances You’ve Never Heard Of” section – I love learning about new brands, especially smaller ones, I’m looking forward to checking all of those out. Abel Black Anise is gorgeous and I’d love to win a bottle! I’m in MN, USA.

  • Made a meal yesterday that included Anise for our Christmas celebration and this being one of my favorite spices, I was immediately drawn to Black Anise and it seems all my picks this month have tobacco in them 🙂 Thank you for the wonderful service that you provide us. I’m in TX USA

  • I’m a big fan of Roberto Greco’s work (love both Oeilleres and Porter sa Peau) AND of acacia notes, so his latest Rauque sounds unmissable. Please count me in for the giveaway! 😉 I’m based in the EU (Italy).

  • It is great to read other folks opinions on fragrances of the year. Some I agree with, some not, but all are valuable interpretations. That’s what makes the fragrance world so magical, the subjectivity and mutual respect for everyone’s opinion. Great article! I live in CT, US.

  • Another impressive year, and a great list. Of the 2023 trends noted here, I’m most interested in novel uses of classic ingredients, if only because that seems so difficult to do all these years after first starting to use these mainstays. For example, it sounds like Roberto Greco Rauque uses myrrh in an unusual way; that combination of heady florals, bold Russian leather, and myrrh is striking. Some other highlights from the list for me: La Fleur also sounds like a personal, nostalgic perfume, with a woody-tonka spice blend lifted by bright lemon. Olfactive Studio’s take on Lapsang Suchong tea in Smoky Soul sounds layered, complex, and riveting. We Are Future Society is a really interesting concept; very curious how it turned out. I also enjoyed your Most Disappointing Perfume nomination—we don’t need more “smells like” fragrances.

    I’m in the midwest, USA. I’d love to win the Black Anise—thanks!

  • I look forward to these lists every year. So much great information & many perfumes that I definitely want to smell!
    Especially Rauque & Black Anise.
    Was surprised but happy to see smoky notes may be a trend.
    Thank you for the generous giveaway, I live in the USA.

  • I would love to try Roberto Greco Rauque, not just for the scent but the bottle is amazing! I love all the reviews and information on your year-end round ups. Thank you all for all your passion and knowledge.
    I’m in the us

  • I like these best of year articles! As always, I barely have smelled any of them, but it’s a good way to put more perfumes on the to smell list.
    The only one I have smelled is Heaven can Wait and yes, it’s a great name. I like the perfume, it is very JC Ellena. I have found it very familiar and after a while it hit me: it reminded me of his work at Hermes Cuir d’Ange; I like the Hermes better.
    The bottle for Roberto Greco Rauque is something special and one to be on top to display, love the originality!
    I’m in the EU.

  • After reading this wonderful review of many perfumes I am enchanted.
    Everything is fascinating and I don’t really know which one to choose. I would like to try them all.
    Maybe just for the beautiful bottle I prefer Rauque.
    Linda EU

  • lavienrose13 says:

    Rauque definitly sparked my interest ! I am certain it will be a big crush. I hope I can discover it in 2024. I leave in France, EU.

  • foreverscents says:

    This was a very rich and thoughtful list of fragrances. I plan to buy some of the fragrances that are less well-known. less publicized. I am particularly interested in La Fleur by Livvy Jadon, the offerings from Scent Hunters, and the fragrances from We Are Future Society.
    I live in the USA.

  • Thank you to the authors as usual. This is an yearly appointment I cannot miss. Going into the perfumes: I am so glad that Christopher Sheldrake is back collaborating with independent brands outside Chnel. I cannot wait to smell this new creation. Thank you for the article from Italy.

  • Impressive work!!! Thank you so much to Michelyn and Ermano for this incredible journey across 2023 releases!
    I’m interested in everything I haven’t heard of and so I loved the part about “perfume through the Metaverse” and I look forward to see how AI could be incorporated in the process of making fragrances even more.
    I’m glad Michelyn and Ermano point out something I care about: I feel that “inclusivity” and “diversity” should be more than just words that the brands associated to them in an empty way, but always in mind. I think that the theme of sustanaibility should also be part of every step of the the process, constantly.
    I’m so curious about Roberto Greco Rauque by Christopher Sheldrake. This is described as challenging, immersive, complex, full of creativity and these are all characteristics I would love to find in a perfume. So I’m entering for Raque (finger crossed).
    Smiles from Italy, EU.

  • Wow! What an impressive roundup of the year. There is so much to continue to research from what you have mentioned here. I immediately had to lookup Alex and Anton though – Coquet & Vaudou are both so intriguing. The art direction is gorgeous. I love a unique perspective AND those bottles!
    Please enter me for the draw for Black Anise. I live in the US.

  • Hello from Florida, and thank you to Michelyn and Ermano for the reviews!

    I’d love to give Black Anise a try. From your review, it sounds like it pulls together some very intriguing notes. It also seems quite suitably wintery!

  • Thank you for this amazing article! It was a pleasure to read about all of the new and exciting fragrances that were released this year. I’m particularly interested in trying out the ones that you mentioned as being your favorites, such as Roberto Greco “Rauque”. I am also curious to learn more about the fragrances from Scent Hunters and We Are Future Society…
    It is interesting to note that you mentioned the rise of fragrances inspired by extinct flowers. This is a trend that I have been wanting to see in the perfumery world for ages, and I think it is a fascinating way to preserve biodiversity!
    I also consider it’s mandatory to support brands that are committed to embrace diversity, innovation and quality.

    I live in Portugal, EU and, since Christopher Sheldrake is my favorite perfumer, I truly would love to win Roberto Greco “Rauque”. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the chance to buy it…

    Thank you ALL!

    Happy holidays!

  • The Able Black Anise is the scent that stands out to me and is definately my selection here.
    Thanks

    Oklahoma USA

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the wonderful writeup!

    I really liked reading about the trends in perfumery this year. It’s really interesting to see the intersection of art and technology and see how things work in the hands of creative folks.

    I would love to win a bottle of either, leaning towards Roberto Greco Rauque