MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder (Aurelien Guichard) 2023 + Contrasts and Complexity Giveaway

MATIERE PREMIERE VANILLA POWDER

Image of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder by Karl

MATIÈRE PREMIERE’s perfumer and founder Aurelien Guichard recently debuted a work of olfactory art and ingenuity— Vanilla Powder. Guichard embarked on a journey to capture the essence of vanilla in a perfume that was created using both centuries old harvesting techniques and the latest in fragrance technology. 

“Vanilla is a raw material I’ve always wanted to include in the MATIÈRE PREMIERE collection. This fragrance is a refined vanilla: its dark richness is met with an explosion of modern white powders.”©-Aurelien Guichard for ÇaFleureBon

Aurélien Guichard Of MATIERE PREMIERE

Image of Aurelien Guichard courtesy of MATIÈRE PREMIERE in his Atelier Mai 2023 Photos © Alexis Jacquin @lestudioalma_9755_web

His signature overdose of a raw material, here, Madagascar’s finest Vanilla Absolute infuses Vanilla Powder with depth, embodying the raw beauty of its origin. MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder is not sweet nor linear and is unlike any vanilla perfume I have smelt. The star of this olfactory ensemble is the Vanilla absolute sourced directly from local farmers located in the northeastern region of Madagascar. These precious vanilla beans, embarked on a nine-month journey of growth and were meticulously pollinated by hand. Following this intricate process, a six to eight-month drying period ensues, allowing the beans to mature to their full aromatic complexity.

Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder uses powder instead of oils and is made with Vanilla from Madagascar

Image of Madagascar vanilla pods and powder photo by Michelyn using images from MATIÈRE PREMIERE catalogue

There is a balance struck between the richness of vanilla and the dryness of Palo Santo as Guichard weaves a scented narrative of contrasts and complexity. To complement the exceptional vanilla absolute Guichard sought inspiration from the lush forests of Ecuador, where he discovered the natural Palo Santo oil which “has this very particular, dry white wood scent, almost cypress like. It brings structure and verticality to the warm, supple aspect of the Vanilla Absolute Madagascar.”

Vanilla Powder Matiere Premiere Aurélien Guichard

Aurelien Guichard in his Atelier/ Mai 2023 Photos © Alexis Jacquin @lestudioalma_9755_web

Guichard masterfully introduces white powders into the composition, elevating it to an entirely new level.

“Perfumers use mostly liquid ingredients. But we have also access to amazing raw materials in the form of natural resins, powders or crystals. MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder is unique because I have used over 40% of powder ingredients in my formula. I have selected only modern powders, to build a signature sillage of freshness and vibration. Woody powders such as oakmoss and ambrocenide, ambery powders like Ambroxan and powders derived from Vanilla – ethylvaniline and vaniline.”

Guichard’s formulation is a symphony, with each note harmonising to perfection. The Madagascar Vanilla is present throughout. There is a gentle caress of coconut, adding a creamy and exotic facet to the blend. Ambroxan, with its woody and ambery undertones underscores the Palo Santo. Together, these natural and synthetic elements create a contemporary perfume that is unparalleled in its modernity and allure. Aurelien Guichard’s MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder is a testament to the artistry and passion of a master perfumer. With a commitment to sourcing the finest ingredients from around the world and a vision to create a fragrance that pushes the boundaries of convention, Guichard has created a fragrance is much more than another vanilla, it is a testament to both innovation and classic fine fragrance.

Notes: Vanilla Absolut Madagascar Palo Santo Oil Ecuador, Coconut, Ambroxan.

–Karl Topham Senior Editor and U.K. Ambassador, with contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief.

Disclaimer: 100ml bottle of Vanilla Powder sent to Karl and Michelyn for review purposes, opinions are their own.

MATIERE PREMIERE VANILLA POWDER by Aurelien Guichard

Official Image of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder

Thanks to MATIERE PREMIERE we have a 100 ml bottle of Vanilla Powder for one registered reader USA, UK and EU. You must register. To be eligible, please leave a quality comment about what sparked your interest in Karl’s review of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder, what you learned from Aurelien Guichard’s quotes for ÇaFleureBon and where you live. Do you have a favorite MATIERE PREMIERE? Draw closes 10/12/23.

We thank M. Guichard for taking the time to share his creative process with our readers and viewers.

Please read Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurelien Guichard here. If you would like your comment to count twice, pull a quote that resonated with you from that interview and leave it in your comment.

MATIÈRE PREMIERE was awarded The U.K. Fragrance Foundation Perfume Extraordinaire for Radical Rose in 2021and Crystal Saffron was a Fragrance Foundation Finalist for “Indie Fragrance of The Year” 2023.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @matierepremiereparfums @aurelienguichard

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We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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82 comments

  • WeAreScentient says:

    One of the nicest and more unique vanillas I’ve smelled. The palo Santo kind of gives it’s a smoky feel while the coconut just enough of a twist to make it unique yet still a delicious vanilla. Love Aurelien Guichard‘s style.

  • Karen Ruano says:

    I feel that the combination of the Palo Santo and the vanilla would be amazing! Like spicy vanilla with a touch of coconut, sounds devine! A quote that resonated with me was “ Guichard’s formulation is a symphony, with each note harmonising to perfection. ” it makes me think this fragrance is blended wonderfully!

  • Annatar says:

    When a perfume is described as “a scented narrative”, it sparks my attention instantly: a perfume can be – and should be – a statement. I have yet to try Vanilla Powder, but it seems that monsieur Guichard has achieved something spectacular: a fragrance that contains over 40% powder ingredients is innovative, which is not what a lot of new releases can boast.

    The thing that struck me the most in the Aurelien Guichard’s interview is this bit: “My grand-parents were approaching the end of their life, they had quit farming a few years back. They had taught me so much in my childhood, I wanted to perpetuate this local and family know-how”. I believe that while we evolve and grow, we should also cherish what our ancestors taught us.

    So far, I’ve only got a chance to try Falcon Leather which is exquisite.

    Thank you for the giveaway. Germany

  • mleenstra says:

    I’m really curious for this fragrance. Vanilla has been used a million of times but it shows confidence of the perfumer to put vanilla so centre stage on the basis of the quality of the raw material. From Michelyn’s interview with Mr. Guichard I learned that he has always been hands on involved in the growing of raw materials: “To me, it is a return to the essentials of fragrance creation. I have always been attracted to nature.” And I think that makes this take on vanilla with 40% powder materials really interesting. I haven’t tried anything from Matière Premiere yet so no favourites yet 😉 Marit in the UK.

  • Heather says:

    Vanilla is one of my favorite notes, and I’m excited to try this fragrance. I am interested to smell the vanilla powder because it sounds very unique. I enjoyed reading Mr. Guichard’s interview with Michelyn. I like that he strives to be modern rather than “niche.” Tx, USA

  • Frank G says:

    What sparked my interest in Karl’s review is how the vanilla absolute is sourced from the northeastern region of Madagascar and how the vanilla beans embarked on a 9 month journey of growth and were pollinated by hand. Subsequently a 6 to 8 month drying period ensued to enable the beans to mature to their full aromatic complexity. It’s so interesting to learn how this particular ingredient was sourced and the time and effort involved. Makes you really appreciate the dedication involved in producing this fragrance. What I learned from Aurelien Guichard’s quotes for ÇaFleureBon is how he used over 40 percent of powder ingredients which makes this composition unique. I have never tried any Matiere Premiere fragrance. A quote from Aurelien Guichard that resonated with me is “I filed all the paperwork to acquire the official status of farmer, opened my own organic farm and became the only perfumer to grow his own raw materials”. Thank you for the opportunity. From New York, USA.

  • Emily L says:

    I have been reading about Vanilla Powder and listening to reviews in the last week and am excited to try it. I like Aurélien’s concept of mixing Madagascar vanilla with powdery notes (particularly coconut) to create a cedar-like effect. I’m so curious to know what a non-sweet vanilla fragrance smells like.

    I also read Michelyn’s interview with Aurélien and smiled when he said, “Radical Rose and French Flower by MATIERE PREMIERE are very special to me, because they are made with my own organic Centifolia Roses and Tuberoses.” Radical Rose is my favorite perfume in the house and one of two I currently own. Somehow it makes me extra happy to know that’s his favorite.

    ~ I live in Indiana

  • John Michael Jones says:

    What stood out to me about Karl’s review were/ are the note breakdown. I’m such a huge lover of all things vanilla & Madagascar vanilla is my all time favorite! What resonated with me was when Aurelien Guichard said, “The pickers are local people who have been working with us for generations.” This shows how loyal the Guichard family is and loyalty is so important to me.

  • Jeremi says:

    What sparked my interest in Karl’s Review is that it’s a fragrance that has as a sophisticated and modern vanilla scent that’s not too sweet, not too gourmand, it’s also not too woody. For me it just sounds so perfect.
    What I learned from Aurélien Guichard’s quotes is that he wanted to create a perfect vanilla scent. He really loves vanilla because who doesn’t? Vanilla is something otherworldly.
    I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU.
    I never tried MATIÈRE PREMIERE but this would probably be something that I’d love from the first time I’d apply it.

  • mbonet says:

    Oooh just crossing fingers and toes for this! vanilla powder, wow. Peaked my interest in learning about this form of vanilla and other components. Sending wishes for an opportunity to try this!

  • Antonia says:

    Fascinating that perfumers use mostly oils not powders from the interview I learned about enfleurage and that he’s married
    I do own Parisian Musc

  • rmsssss says:

    So many vanilla perfumes are sweet gourmands, but I love the sound of this dry, woody vanilla! I also find it so interesting that Aurelien Guichard used 40% powders when making this fragrance. In my head, perfumes are always made with liquid or resin ingredients (I guess that is normally the case) so I’m glad I learned something new! My favorite from Matiere Premiere is Encens Suave, and I’d love to try this one as well! I’m in MN, USA

  • Amaziz89 says:

    created a fragrance is much more than another vanilla, it is a testament to both innovation and classic fine fragrance.

    Notes: Vanilla Absolut Madagascar Palo Santo Oil Ecuador, Coconut, Ambroxan.
    Two things still strike me today as important takeaways from this period. First, the creative conviction and courage it took, for established brands and marketing directors to let a young trainee perfumer create his first perfumes alone, under no Master Perfumer’s guidance and supervision. This is rare.

    And second, how beautiful it was to create my first fragrances for brands and people of such different backgrounds and sensibilities – for Sean John in the US, and for established French brands like Guerlain and Nina Ricci.

    I still cherish this diversity and boldness in creation today. I am struck by the above quote creating fragrance for Sean Jean, Guerlain and Nina Ricci just the perfumers passion and courage coming to the fore. The notes sound sumptuous especially Vanilla, Palo Santo and Ambroxan. My favourite is Encens Suave. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    both innovation and classic fine fragrance.

    Notes: Vanilla Absolut Madagascar Palo Santo Oil Ecuador, Coconut, Ambroxan. I am intrigued by the perfumer use of Vanilla powder really fascinated how this will smell like on skin. was born in Grasse, and raised between the fields of jasmine and roses that belonged to my grandparents in Grasse, and the city life in Paris, where my parents worked. I am from a family of perfumers, and during my childhood, creating perfumes, growing flowers or perfume production appeared to me as part of our way of life, more than strictly a profession. This quote resonanted with be because the perfumer was destined for this field because this was something just much more than a job or professional but something done with passion, heart and soul. I am afraid this is a house that I don’t have any experience with thus far. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • hhh3993 says:

    I can’t help but imagine a full dose of luxurious creaminess that would emanate from the combination of warm vanilla, and sweet coconut and smoky palo santo all in one bottle. Mr Guichard describes a complexity of aromas that do not lack the sophistication of quality sourced ingredients, and it’s because of these things everything comes together as a well orchestrated symphony to the smell and other senses. Excited to try and hopefully add to my collection.

    hhh3993, Residing in Michigan, USA

    of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder, what you learned from Aurelien Guichard’s quotes for ÇaFleureBon and where you live. Do you have a favorite MATIERE PREMIERE? Dr

  • whimsical diva says:

    I really enjoyed the description of vanilla is harvested, and about this is a dry vanilla, as opposed to a pudding-y one. The Palo Santo addition is also intriguing. very curious to see how the dryness plays with the inherent sweetness of vanilla. I’d live to enter the draw. California, US

  • whimsical diva says:

    Oh, and the only scents I’ve tried from this like are Parisian Musc and French Flower. My favorite would be the musc. Muky, figgy elegance in a bottle

  • mugatzer says:

    I have been so eager to try Vanilla Powder. I loved learning about the cultivation process of the vanilla used here, especially the time taken to both grow and dry. I was also intrigued by Aurelien Guichard’s mention that he used 40% powder ingredients in this formulation, where most perfumers use mainly liquid. My previous favorite from the house was Encens Suave, but I feel pretty confident that Vanilla Powder will bump it to second. I am in the US – thank you!

  • MellyN956 says:

    What really sparked my interest is the note of palo santo, as it is one of my favorite scents/notes. “To complement the exceptional vanilla absolute Guichard sought inspiration from the lush forests of Ecuador, where he discovered the natural Palo Santo oil which “has this very particular, dry white wood scent, almost cypress like. It brings structure and verticality to the warm, supple aspect of the Vanilla Absolute Madagascar.”” This quote really intrigued me because of how well the vanilla and palo santo compliment each other.

    A quote from Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurelien Guichard that resonated with me was “I need freedom. Freedom in the way I organize my time according to the calendar of projects. Freedom in the places where I work” I live in the US. Phenomenal review and amazing interview! Thank you.

  • Torax says:

    Great review by Karl here.
    Matiere Premiere is one fragrance house that I love since I tried Radical Rose. The quality they manage is just something out of this world.
    Vanilla Powder is something I really need since I am a huge vanilla enthusiast. Knowing how of an expert Aurelien is in using raw materials and how he managed to use 40% of powder ingredient in her just blows my mind and makes me want to try it asap.
    I hope I get my nose on it soon.
    USA here.

  • C K says:

    A quote that resonated with me from the interview was, “reason why I was drawn towards creating perfume was probably because I wanted to collaborate with creative people from different origins and countries.” I did not know there were so many perfumery materials that perfumers can use in powder form and that 40% of the formula for Vanilla Powder is using these materials is super interesting. I love the idea of the perfume and it sounds great with the vanilla absolute, palo Santo, and powdery elements. As far as favorites from Matiere Premiere I’ve only tried a few but Santal Austral is probably my favorite I’ve tried behind that Encens Suave. Thanks for the generous draw, from CT USA

  • Steve A says:

    My interest was sparked by this being a new vanilla fragrance, simple enough. From the quotes I learned what was meant by “modern white powders”. US

  • Scentsational Exchange says:

    Vanilla is one of my favorite notes in perfumery. Karl’s review of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder immediately drew my interest due to its description of the perfume’s innovative approach to capturing the essence of vanilla. Aurelien Guichard’s commitment to using both traditional harvesting techniques and modern fragrance technology is fascinating. I learned about the meticulous process of sourcing the finest vanilla beans from Madagascar and the careful balance struck between the richness of vanilla and the dryness of Palo Santo. Guichard’s use of over 40% powder ingredients in the formula, including ethylvaniline and vaniline, shows a unique and creative approach to perfume composition. This review highlights the artistry and dedication of a master perfumer, making me eager to experience MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder and its modern yet classic fragrance profile.
    My favorite Matiere Premiere perfume is hard to choose but I am in love with Radical Rose and Encens Suave.

    I am from EU

  • castlemicro says:

    Hello from Florida, and thank you to Karl and Michelyn for the review!

    I’m really intrigued by how Vanilla Powder was composed — I’ve never heard of a formula made primarily with powders. Vanilla finds its place in countless perfumes, but I’d love to smell how Guichard made it shine in this one.

  • Salem says:

    Vanilla with coconut, palo santo and powdery elements, both vanillic and from ambroxan, that sounds amazing. I feel like vanilla is a comfort note generally, to soothe and wrap you and warm you up, and in this blend of notes, even more so. Plus, Aurelien Guichard is an absolute master so this might be a truly special fragrance.
    I live in EU.

  • Dazi83 says:

    What sparked my interest in Karl’s review is the description of notes: Madagascar Vanilla that is present throughout, a gentle caress of coconut, adding a creamy and exotic facet to the blend and ambroxan, with its woody and ambery undertones together create a contemporary perfume that is unparalleled in its modernity and allure.
    From Aurelien Guichard’s quotes, I’ve learnet that Palo Santo oil has this very particular, dry white wood scent, almost cypress like and it brings structure and verticality to the warm, supple aspect of the Vanilla Absolute Madagascar.
    EU

  • olgAPOISON says:

    I LOVE VANILLA AND THIS HOUSE. I would really love this! Yess for coconut. Spicy vanilla is the best. I’m.really curious and the grandparents story is cute. I’m.from eu.

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    The harvesting of the vanilla is quite interesting. This sounds delightful. I’d love to win and live in Indiana.

  • Lindsay says:

    I was interested in learning about the use of different materials in the creation of this perfume. I did not know that powders could be used in its creation, and think that is such a creative and cool way to differentiate this scent from the pack. Vanilla seems like it would be especially challenging with so many vanilla scents on the market. My interest in the review was sparked by the inclusion of Palo Santo and coconut in the perfume, as I can imagine the scent to be amazing! The quote from the interview that struck me was: “Often, as fragrances are complex and made with many ingredients, the quality of a single ingredient is not perceivable by the person who wears the fragrance.” It is an interesting way to think, and I like that this thought process led to the creation of scents with a strong central note. I live in Colorado, USA.

  • chrisskins says:

    Here’s the quote, “I need freedom. Freedom in the way I organize my time according to the calendar of projects.” This resonates with me. I am just an ordinary person, but don’t try M. Guichard to control me! I admire the passion for raw materials, especially growing them, and vanilla is a special ingredient. Vanilla Powder sounds different than the other vanillas, hence worth a full nose-around. Glad you asked M. Guichard if he was single. Like the Beatles, it’s not like the fans had a chance but it’s fun to hope. I live in NY.

  • Nikolina_84 says:

    I have learned from Aurelien Guichard’s quotes for ÇaFleureBon that Vanilla Powder is unique because he used over 40% of powder ingredients in his formula – modern powders, to build a signature sillage of freshness and vibration: woody powders such as oakmoss and ambrocenide, ambery powders like Ambroxan and powders derived from Vanilla – ethylvaniline and vaniline.
    What sparked my interest in Karl’s review is a simple claim “Guichard’s formulation is a symphony, with each note harmonising to perfection.”
    Hugs from Croatia, EU ❤️

  • bhernandez says:

    I like a few accord/notes, and one if them is vanilla.
    Vanilla Powder by MATIÈRE PREMIERE, that includes palo santo in it, sounds like a fantastic combination of ingredients.

    From the USA

  • Shibuichi2000 says:

    Karl’s statement about Vanilla Powder being a vanilla like none he experienced so far and the detail that this is not a sweet vanilla really peaked my curiosity – could this be THE vanilla that I’ll crave?
    Very interesting the use of powders in the scent’s creation – all the process, with it’s time consuming phases, it’s a proof that Aurelien Guichard makes no compromises in quality & excellency.
    I live in Europe.

  • Bonnie Beck says:

    Aurelien Guichard has created a couple fragrances that I adore. I am curious about the powder ingredients used in Vanilla Powder. I find that Matiere Premiere creates some very interesting modern fragrances. I live in the US

  • mdellaroc says:

    Well you had me at palo Santo. I really love the scent. But the unique addition of these powders makes this truly a fascinating take on vanilla. In maryland.

  • Annika says:

    Anyone who works with vanilla pods knows that the scent is much more complex and darker than modern bakery sweet vanilla fragrances would suggest. Guichard’s use of the whole Madagascan vanilla pod in combination with dry palo santo, woody amber Ambroxan and coconut is inspired. His use of powders vs liquids in creating the fragrance is also interesting. The sourcing of the notes sounds exceptional which lets the quality speak for itself. I’m in the US.

  • lavieest says:

    Man, why I can’t win anything. Am really interested in this one, vanilla is one of my favorite notes. Definitely want to win this one.
    I am in US

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I am super excited about this vanilla as it sounds unique and not overly sweet. I’ve moved on from my gourmand phase and would love to try this as I still love vanilla (but not like cake). Top quality ingredients, innovative and classic…. I have high hopes for this one. I adore the Neroli Oranger. “I have selected only modern powders to build a signature village of freshness and vibration”. I was unaware than anything in perfumery was powder form. Cool. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • Teresa C says:

    I love vanilla fragrances more as I go along, and though i don’t like powder, I am finding that in some blends, a powder note adds depth and comfort. I guess I never really thought about pefumers using mostly liquid notes, but I do have oils and incenses that show up in many perfumes, but aren’t liquid (resins, sticky absoutes, waxy concretes). This sounds very interesting, especially as the nights are starting to get colder so cuddly but modern/fresh sounds like a good option.

  • Arron_Q says:

    This sounds straightforward yet with depth. There is something magical about such fragrances and I think they often highlight the true artistry of perfumery. I really like the sound of the woody elements serving as a backbone to the various vanillic facets. Vanhera from Laboratorio Olfattivo did this and it blew me away, I imagine this would be a lighter ying to that one’s darker yang. Best of luck to all. I live in NC, USA.

  • psebi101 says:

    I like that it’s not powdery and very sweet, because most vanillas are, so if it’s different, it should be interesting indeed.
    Didn’t know that there are powder ingredients used in perfumery, I thought it’s mostly liquid and some resins.
    I like Aurielian’s style, not only for his brand, I also love his work for Piguet.
    I’m in the EU.

  • NewSmells says:

    What really piqued my interest was the mentioning of combining the use of “centuries old harvesting techniques” and modern techniques, with the use of raw vanilla to make powders. It was nice to learn about the different forms of vanilla used to make fragrances (resin, powder, etc.). My current favorite of Matière premiere (from the ones I had the opportunities to smell) would be crystal saffron.
    TX, USA.

  • LINDA says:

    I love vanilla scents and Vanilla Powder seems like a sweet and refined scent that is impossible to resist.
    Linda (EU)

  • BigMickyD says:

    “Guichard’s formulation is a symphony, with each note harmonising to perfection. The Madagascar Vanilla is present throughout. There is a gentle caress of coconut, adding a creamy and exotic facet to the blend. Ambroxan, with its woody and ambery undertones underscores the Palo Santo. Together, these natural and synthetic elements create a contemporary perfume that is unparalleled in its modernity and allure.” I love this segment by Karl, and I am certainly intrigued. I haven’t yet smelled anything from the brand.

    I live in Sweden, EU.

  • Zoran Loncarevic says:

    I love vanilla scents. Combined with Palo Santo and Coconut sounds super delicious. Greetings from Germany.

  • Lisa Binkman says:

    The marriage of Pablo Santo and Vanilla in Vanilla Powder is what I love about fragrance and how notes you think you’ll never be surprised by birth new complexity when crafted by master perfumers such as Aurelien Guichard. Hearing the thoughtfulness in the vanilla used in this masterpiece is just incredible and really reminds me of the artistry and passion that goes into fragrance.
    The 40% powder ingredients in Vanilla Powder intrigues me deeply and I would love to get this on my skin.
    Thank you Karl, I’m Lisa in US.

  • mic says:

    I recently bought some vanilla powder from Madagascar and it has a wonderful fragrance, nothing like the one you can smell in the majority of perfumes that use sweet vanillin. And from what I understand this is not a sweet vanilla but rather a rich and complex fragrance made with vanilla absolute, so I would really love to try it. Besides, Guichard himself said in the interview that “raw materials are for me, as a perfumer, the colors that I use to create emotions”. This is an emotion that would be really nice to try.
    From his collection, I only smelt Encense Suave once and, as a incence lover, I fell for it at first smell. I live in Italy, EU

  • johnmadison says:

    Thank you for the review of Vanilla Powder, Karl!
    Matiere Premiere as a line always has the best perfumers and such integrity with their fragrances. Doing new things, daring things, and creating new complexities with notes. The Madagascar vanilla being center stage here throughout and the beautiful varieties of powders used in this making almost half of its formula, stunning. The woody and ambery powders in Vanilla Powder really sounds amazing.
    John, Minnesota – USA

  • Sonbahia says:

    Nice review Karl! One of the reasons of the success of Mr. Guichard Matière Premiere is his quest for the best raw materials. Here is Vanilla, overdose Vanilla, a material so used and abused in perfumery. But in this case, even Karl is surprised for the aromatic breadth of this Madagascar beans that combines as he says “the best old harvesting techniques and the latest in fragrance technology” has the best partner here: The smoky Palo Santo to play a dance of contrasts (sweet and dry) and complexity. Palo Santo relates, as Vanilla, to a tropical forest and even coconut to add creaminess. The brand does justice to his name: Raw Material. My favorite of the brand is Neroli Oranger: a wonderful crisp cologne. I live in Spain, EU.

  • mmerline says:

    I’m curious about a vanilla fragrance that’s “not sweet nor linear and is unlike any vanilla perfume I have smelt,” since many of us have such a precise idea of what vanilla smells like (often in the context of baking or a single perfume a parent wore for years). The combination of vanilla and dry Palo Santo (I hadn’t thought of it as cypress like before now) is a clever source of balance. Reading Guichard’s comments on the use of Ambroxan, ethylvaniline,and vaniline, Vanilla Powder’s synthetic notes were clearly used with precision to highlight this fragrance’s namesake material. It reminded me of his comments to Michelyn about controlling his sourcing and how composes MATIERE PREMIER fragrances: “So I filed all the paperwork to acquire the official status of farmer, opened my own organic farm and became the only perfumer to grow his own raw materials…We decided our goal would be to turn a raw material into a perfume, with a unique construction: use a very high dosage of one central, extremely qualitative and natural ingredient, then use only a few more, equally qualitative ingredients to facet the main one.” Thanks for the detailed, succinct review Karl.

    I’m in the USA. I haven’t tried any MATIERE PREMIERE perfumes and would love to try this one. Thanks!

  • perusegenesis says:

    Thank you for this giveaway (I love their Radical Rose) and for this lovely review! I am still looking for my perfect vanilla and lately I’ve been into a Palo Santo frenzy, this seems like a perfect concoction indeed. I don’t know too much about actual fragrance ingredients, I feel like I have a vague idea about what they mean, so reading about liquid ingredients vs raw, here powder ingredients is interesting, love the attention for raw, qualitative ingredients, even if one doesn’t know much about it he can surely tell the difference. Also loved the callback to last year’s interview, I read it now for the first time, amazing to hear that I share a love for Almodovar’s movies with mr. Guichard, and this fragment was particularly sweet – ‘They had taught me so much in my childhood, I wanted to perpetuate this local and family know-how.’. I am from Europe, RO.

  • Nom de Guerre says:

    Palo santo is always a pleasure to smell. In combination with vanilla, it sounds like a win. My favorites from MP are Cologne Cedrat and Encens Suave, it’s a tie.

    Never knew this was a thing “we have also access to amazing raw materials in the form of natural resins, powders or crystals” & “Vanilla Powder is unique because I have used over 40% of powder ingredients in my formula”.

    Many thanks for the article. Greetings from Riga, Latvia.

  • maryl says:

    Thanks for the article that shed light on the brand’s ethical ingredient sourcing and the perfumer’s innovative approach. Karl Topham also shared a quote from the perfumer Aurelien Guichard, emphasizing their commitment to modern powders in crafting perfumes and this caught my attention along with the info of the use of Vanilla absolute sourced directly from local farmers. Thanks, the UK.

  • MatthewKeilwitz says:

    “Perfumers use mostly liquid ingredients. But we have also access to amazing raw materials in the form of natural resins, powders or crystals. MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder is unique because I have used over 40% of powder ingredients in my formula. I have selected only modern powders, to build a signature sillage of freshness and vibration.”

    What interests me about this article is how using powdered ingredients somehow has an effect on sillage? How can that be?

    Also, good on Matiere Premiere for sourcing their ingredients from local farmers in Madagascar. That’s a huge boon for my opinion of this company.

    FL, USA

  • wandering_nose says:

    Oh my goodness… Thank you, Karl and Michelyn! A couple of months ago I visited my favorite perfume store in Lisbon where I had the privilege to be introduced to the entire range of MATIÈRE PREMIERE creations and have some amazing conversations. They have had Aurelien Guichard visit the store a few weeks earlier and it was amazing to see how impressed they still were. I have learnt powders can be used in perfumery en par with liquids, that somehow seems a very important learning for me.
    Encens Suave and Crystal Saffron have been my favorites from the MP range.
    I am in Dublin, Republic of Ireland, EU

  • helenlam says:

    That’s a very interesting concept! It immediately caught my attention that it was neither sweet nor linear. I love a good vanilla, but I also enjoy a non-desserty version of it too. This sounds perfect in line with the house’s theme.

    I’ve also really enjoyed wearing and collecting what he did at Piguest as well! I have not tried anything from his line, so I don’t have a favorite (yet).

    The following quote really resonated with me:
    “A house which embodies that French Perfumery is all about extreme olfactive modernity and quality, far from the old-fashioned craft as some may see it.”

    I live in the USA. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • Melina Ott says:

    I need to get my hands on this and would love to win the giveaway! I never win anything though so I won’t hold my breath. If you would have asked me in my 20’s If I would be drawn to powdery scents I would have laughed but as my taste develops I crave the sophisticated softness of a powdery scent. This quote hooked me “This fragrance is a refined vanilla: its dark richness is met with an explosion of modern white powders.” I live in the US. Matiere Premier is such a high quality house and I love Parisian musc in the summer I think Vanilla Powder could be my fall/winter vibe.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the great review Karl.

    This is such a pretty and interesting vanilla fragrance. Apart from Lebreton’s Un Fleur Cachee, I don’t think I’ve seen too many vanillas that stray away from the gourmand nature. I love the creativity in using Palo Alto to introduce a smokey incense element and then tempering it with the lactonic milkiniess of coconut and then holding it down with all the woody powderiness in the base.

    My favourite quote from the interview with Aurelien
    “I was certainly influenced by this environment. Because I have such wonderful memories given by these unique people surrounding me in my childhood, and also because I could see both the happiness and sadness, hopes and disappointments, dedication and human friendship linked to the creative work of my father – I knew what I was stepping into when I decided to become a perfumer.”

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • KrystalNicole says:

    My interest was immediately sparked as soon as I saw the title of this article! Vanilla is by far my favorite cool weather comforting note in perfumery aside from amber and i also love powder in fragrance with orris/iris being my favorite floral note. So to see vanilla powder as the name of the fragrance i knew immediately this is something i have to get my nose on!

    In Karl’s review of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder, there were a few mentions that furthered my intrigue with this fragrance. “Not sweet nor linear and is unlike any vanilla perfume I have smelt.”, “balance struck between the richness of vanilla and the dryness of Palo Santo”, “masterfully introduces white powders into the composition, elevating it to an entirely new level.”. These are a few points in the review that really pulled me in because it sounds unique and very vanilla which is not always a easy thing to find. As a vanilla lover I often struggle to find a vanilla centered perfume that really stands out to me.

    What i learned from Aurelien Guichard’s quotes was he used 40% modern powder ingredients in this perfume, woody and amber powder ingredients! Also that he uses a palo santo oil he describes having a dry white wood scent, almost cypress like. It brings structure and verticality to the warm, supple aspect of the Vanilla Absolute Madagascar.”. As someone who commonly burns palo santo this just sounds like a wonderful combination.

    From Michelyn’s interview with Aurelien Guichard I pulled the following quote because I too am grateful for being lucky enough to grow up surrounded by creative open-minded and humble people that as I grow older I realize contributed greatly to my success in life.
    “I was lucky to grow up with them not only because they were successful and talented artists, but because they were open-minded and humble people, believing in diversity of talents and of visions of life.”

    I have never tried anything from MATIERE PREMIERE unfortunately but am certainly excited to be introduced to the house. Thank you cafleurbon and MATIERE PREMIERE for the chance to try this lovely perfume.

    I live in North Carolina,USA

  • Januarililjan says:

    “The reason why I was drawn towards creating perfume was probably because I wanted to collaborate with creative people from different origins and countries.”

    This quote very much resonated with me. It’s nice how perfumery is so inclusive.

    The perfume sounds great. I would love to win. I have not smelled anything from the brand before.

    I live in the EU.

  • Giorgia295 says:

    I love this brand, even though I find the fragrances not particularly unique, you can smell the high quality materials of the compositions. I already own Parisian Musc, and it’s one of my favorite fragrances of all time, very long lasting and worth the price. I also love the note of vanilla when it’s airy and powdery, so this new creation sounds perfect! I only understand now reading the article that the name Vanilla powder derives from the manufacture of the perfume itself which is made for the 40% powder ingredients in his formula, and usually perfume are made with liquids of course, very interesting.
    I live in Milan Italy

  • PetaloDiCera says:

    I’ve never smelled anything from Matiere Premiere and I wish this Vanilla could be the first!
    I love vanilla, in every aspect. I’m intrigued by this clash between vanilla as raw material and a white puff of fascinating powder..wow!

    Smiles from Italy, EU.

  • phoenixad says:

    Dark non linear Madagascar vanilla with vanilla powder sounds amazing.I also love palo santo but tend to dislike coconut. I didn’t know that it takes so many months to process vanilla. I hope to win, i live in EU.

  • Zoe K says:

    Matiere Premiere is another brand I’ve had my eye on for a while but haven’t yet been able to try, so I don’t have a favourite, but it sounds like Vanilla Powder could be a contender. What interests me here is that it’s not a sweet vanilla, and if it’s unlike any vanilla Karl has ever smelled then it must be pretty unique.

    And I learned something new – I’ve never smelled Palo Santo in isolation, so it’s interesting to know that it’s a “dry white wood scent, almost cypress like”. Wish I could sniff the oil for myself!

    From Michelyn’s interview, my favourite quote is Aurelien’s reaction to stepping into the lab for the first time and seeing the thousands of ingredients: “I wanted to know every single ingredient from every single bottle.” This resonates with me – I would absolutely want to get my nose on every single one too!

    I’m in the UK.

  • zibbyz says:

    There are so many kinds of vanilla scents, and this Madagascar vanilla with the Palo Santo sounds delish. I liked learning how M. Guichard used vanilla powders in his scent. I was not aware that powders have been used in a scent that is liquid.
    From your interview, “Piguet is probably more baroque, when MATIERE PREMIERE is more minimal and modern. The common goal is to create timeless signature fragrances.” I am unfamiliar with Matiere Premiere, but not with Piguet, so am interested in trying something from Matiere Premiere. I am in the US.

  • Giovannip says:

    I’ve recently sampled Side effect by Initio and I love their Vanille so I would love to get to try a raw classic Vanille.

    From USA

  • Wendy says:

    Thank you, Karl, for the review.

    What really stood out to me was the unique approach to crafting MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder. Crafted with a blend of carefully sourced traditional ingredients and advanced modern technology, this perfume elevates the essence of the vanilla, imbuing it with an otherworldly essence.

    I think Aurelien Guichard’s quote from the interview “There is a warmth in this unique smell, partly given by the sun the flowers have been exposed to all day, that only Enfleurage could render. It is a technique which uses frames with a glass panel that is covered with vegetal wax. Flowers are carefully layered on this wax that will absorb their olfactive molecules, with layers renewed until the wax is fully ready to be distillated” is very insightful. Using a nearly lost art, Aurelien perserves the memories of his family’s rose and tuberose fields, into Radical Rose and French Flower. Truly inspiring.

    Neroli Oranger is my favorite, with French Flower as a close second.

    Very excited for Vanilla Powder. Much love from NY, US!

  • Michael Prince says:

    I loved Karl’s review of MATIÈRE PREMIERE Vanilla Powder. This sounds like an amazing new release! A beautiful Vanilla and Coconut combo with Palo Santo sounds truly divine. Matiere Premiere is a house and Aurelien Guichard is a brilliant perfumer. My favorite fragrance from Matiere Premiere is Encens Suave. I loved Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurelien Guichard where he states he was born and raised in legendary Grasse and the he grew up in an artistic environment. At home painters, sculptors, couturiers, designers, architects, perfumers and many other kinds of artists were part of our daily lives…it’s no wonder he became so talented in the art of perfumery. I am from the USA.

  • Gig84 says:

    Matière Premiere Neroli Oranger is zesty and luminous fragrance also made by the talented Aurélien Guichard , I was gifted a mini , I believe it’s 8ml . Vanilla Powder is way more complex, I like such sophisticated fragrances with a lot of depth.
    The premium vanilla , palo santo and coconut, the blend sounds magical, like a fragrance Scheherazade would wear
    I read again the interview with Aurélien Guichard , and my quote is :
    “Two things still strike me today as important takeaways from this period. First, the creative conviction and courage it took, for established brands and marketing directors to let a young trainee perfumer create his first perfumes alone, under no Master Perfumer’s guidance and supervision. This is rare.”
    Exceptional work ethic by the rather young perfumer . Creating almost everything , from creation of the scent, to all that comes after, even harvesting some of Matiere Premiere ingredients on his own .
    Thanks the draw
    USA

  • Uncle1979 says:

    As a small business owner myself, I own my bakery, i can not only relate to Aurélien Guichard , all bright future is ahead of him , I’m sure.
    I do praise his desire to showcase traditional , natural ingredients of the highest quality , this time vanilla fragrance Madagascar and Palo Santo from Ecuador.

    “Your favorite restaurants in NYC, London and Paris?
    Aurélien Guichard:
    In NYC: Felix in Soho- fun! In Paris, I love Brasserie Lipp, a Parisian classic.”

    The quote we had to post, I really like when Michelyn is asking such culinary related questions .

    “exceptional vanilla absolute”
    Grade A , also known as Gourmet Vanilla i presume.

    “and powders derived from Vanilla – ethylvaniline and vaniline.”

    No doubt there is lost in translation moment here, I’m 100% sure Aurélien Guichard would not say such a thing , because ethylvanillin is NOT a natural compound , and as a Classically Trained in Paris Pastry Chef I can assure you , is not derived from vanilla! Yes there is natural vanillin derived from V. planfolia aka Madagascar Vanilla, but ethylvanillin instead nowadays comes from , for the most part from petrochemical precursors. In theory natural ethylvanillin exists only in 2 plants native to Japan.
    Despite the common belief in the fragrance community , very few people can distinguish vanillin , ethylvanillin and natural vanilla extract. Several control tests were made, both in USA, Germany and France, and smell and taste wise under 10% can tell the difference. My impressions are exactly the same.
    Karl Topham take on Vanilla Powder made me think of a tropical island trip , making Moist Vanilla and Coconut Cake, and enjoying my time.
    I have the pleasure of owning Encens Suave, it smells like I’m eating Tiramisù , with burning incense cons next to me. There are definitely unannounced notes in the fragrance, saffron, patchouli, or rose maybe, and there’s a crunchy feeling too.
    Appreciate Michelyn interview with Aurélien Guichard , Karl Topham review, and the giveaway campaign
    USA

  • IvanVelikov says:

    From Matiere Premiere i only have experience with Oud Seven , non linear fragrance , the whole metamorphosis animalic oud , to comforting resins , vetiver and tobacco is both aggressive, and appealing at the same time. I own a bottle. The best quote from the interview with Aurelien Guichard:

    “I created a first version of Radical Rose and presented it to the press just before the first COVID lockdown. Only a week later, we were all confined, and I was lucky to stay during 6 months in my atelier in Grasse. I felt the fragrance was not good enough. I called my partners and told them I had to start all over again! I worked night and day during 6 months, including during the month of May, the month of the Rose Centifolia harvest, weighing and compounding every try myself. I came up with the final version at the end of the lockdown, it was on a Friday. On the following Monday, I called the press I saw 6 months earlier, to explain. They were kind and understanding – everyone was so happy to be free again!”

    Aurelien Guichard approach to life is in a way similar to mine, he’s attracted by the diner things in life , food, styling, everything in Michelyn interview points out to one refined and elegant character.
    I’m perfectionist like him , that’s why I was so impressed how he thought Radical Rose was just OK, but he was looking for something else , close to perfection fragrance, and self-satisfaction , one of the most important factors for every artist. I’m a tailor, but just like Aurelien Guichard I believe I’m an artist too.
    Vanilla Powder i like because of the different approach to vanilla , and not so sweet, but woody and powdery instead. Classy fragrance i’d pair with a Navy Blue Three Piece Suit , White Oxford Shirt, Brown Waistcoat , Tie and Pocket Square.
    Thank you Michelyn, Matiere Premiere and Aurélien Guichard
    USA

  • Barber82 says:

    I’m glad Vanilla Powder in not a linear fragrance , the whole metamorphosis from highest quality vanilla from Madagascar , to comforting palo santo and woods is what intrigues me the most.
    Matiere Premiere I have no experience with, but the perfumer i know. Gucci Intense Oud punches above its price range.
    The quote i liked the most is
    “It was all about dedication. I remember the first time I stepped into the laboratory and saw thousands of bottles… it appeared to me like a whole universe, everything and anything seemed possible. This day changed my life – creating perfume became my passion. I wanted to know every single ingredient from every single bottle. I memorized about 2000 ingredients within three years. I was entirely dedicated to the raw materials.”
    Rejoicing my job is a blessing to me ,i’m glad Aurelien Guichard feels the same way too
    Thank you
    Germany

  • petergigov says:

    I enjoy wearing woody vanilla fragrances all year round, Vanilla Powder is perfect the Fall and Winter.
    Honestly I’m not sure I’ll be able to tell the difference between the all natural Madagascar Vanilla Absolute, and Ecuadorian Palo Santo Aurelien Guichard used in Vanilla Powder , and some synthetic substitute . What I personally like in the fragrance is the grow up , yet modern profile , and the fact there’s a little bit of coconut and oakmoss.
    I do want my comment to count twice, so
    “Do you have hobbies or passions outside of perfumery?
    Aurélien Guichard: I play Field Hockey for Paris and the French National team. I also love kite Surfing and Surfing.
    ……
    If you weren’t a perfumer, you would be…?
    Aurélien Guichard: A professional field hockey player, or a painter!”
    Wow , my biggest childhood dream was to play in NHL , and I still surf , if the weather is nice.
    Aurelien Guichard i know for Gucci Intense Oud. Unfortunately I’m not familiar with Matiere Premiere fragrances.
    Exciting giveaway, USA
    Regards

  • WaltherP99 says:

    I’m a big time fan of Aurelien Guichard, Matiere Premiere , and the idea of focusing on one primary ingredient. I know all fragrances by the brand, including Vanilla Powder , and if I have to rate my favorite ones:
    1. Encens Suave
    2. Oud Seven , Vanilla Powder
    3. Santal Austral
    A lot of times I’m not on the same page with Karl, but this time I almost fully agree with his views of Vanilla Powder. To me the fragrance smells like a love child of Encens Suave and Santal Austral with pleasing coconut in the background.
    Like Karl said it’s not a gooey vanilla ,but very dry and powdery instead. I’m surprised he never mentioned incense, it’s well detectable on my skin , ambroxan too.
    Cozy and pretty much versatile fragrance done right is what I think of Vanilla Powder.
    About Michelyn interview with Aurélien Guichard:

    “There are quite a few classically trained perfumers who started their own brands. Why did you decide to do this?

    Aurélien Guichard: I did not want to create a brand per se, but a “Maison de Parfumeur” – a house led by a Perfumer, whose mission is to push the limits in terms of olfactive quality and know-how. A house which places fragrance quality at the very center of each single step and consideration. A house which embodies that French Perfumery is all about extreme olfactive modernity and quality, far from the old-fashioned craft as some may see it.”

    Doing your own thing is a risky, and also admirable strategy , love it.
    All profiles I already follow , @waltherp99bg
    Thanks a lot
    USA

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    Matiere Premiere Encens Suave I’ve smelled , high end gourmand with leather. What I find interesting in Vanilla Powder is the natural vanilla , palo santo, and as a whole the different approach to vanilla , fresher, with ambroxan and more versatile , compared to Encens Suave.
    From the previous interview , I was also impressed by Aurelien Guichard thought Radical Rose was not good enough, and worked hard to perfect the fragrance
    “I created a first version of Radical Rose and presented it to the press just before the first COVID lockdown. Only a week later, we were all confined, and I was lucky to stay during 6 months in my atelier in Grasse. I felt the fragrance was not good enough. I called my partners and told them I had to start all over again! I worked night and day during 6 months, including during the month of May, the month of the Rose Centifolia harvest, weighing and compounding every try myself. I came up with the final version at the end of the lockdown, it was on a Friday”
    Encens Suave is my favorite Matiere Premiere fragrance
    Thank you for the opportunity
    USA

  • Timothy_knows_well says:

    Hello from UK
    Aurelien Guichard is a famous perfumer who made some really good fragrances like Gucci Intense Oud and This is Him from Zadig and Voltaire , his Matiere Premiere project i still need to try.
    Vanilla Powder is vanilla for those who don’t like gourmands, versatile, professional fragrance suited for multiple occasions , coconut i think will add some tropical flair to it.
    …
    I grew up in an artistic environment. At home painters, sculptors, couturiers, designers, architects, perfumers and many other kinds of artists were part of our daily lives. I remember dinners in Paris or Grasse with my parents’ friend
    ….
    The above is a quote i took from the interview with Aurelien Guichard
    Thank you

  • Lucia says:

    My favourite Matiere Premiere is French Flower and I wish to smell Vanilla Powder asap, as I am exploring vanilla since some time and I would be cuties to smell this very different and unique composition.
    What hit my attention is the fact that Aurelien Guichard said he used over 40% of powder ingredients in his formula.
    I like that Karl compares this creation to musical symphony, as I also often fid myself comparing perfumes to music.

  • Lucia says:

    My favourite Matiere Premiere is French Flower and I wish to smell Vanilla Powder asap, as I am exploring vanilla since some time and I would be cuties to smell this very different and unique composition.
    What hit my attention is the fact that Aurelien Guichard said he used over 40% of powder ingredients in his formula.
    I like that Karl compares this creation to musical symphony, as I also often fid myself comparing perfumes to music.
    Hi from Germany