Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette creates a scented storm in 17th century Pieter Boel “Panthers” – painting ©RMN-Grand Palais / Gérard Blot, bottle and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.
When we reach a certain age and our passion for perfume has lasted for several decades, the wonderful emotions provoked by certain fragrances are anchored deep in our hearts, carried by people who have made history in our lives, or by ourselves; and therefore, eternally linked to the key moments of our existence. But what about the (re)discovery of perfumes that we have never heard of or worse, that we completely missed when they were launched? What about making way for a brand-new look (and nose) at those to let ourselves finally being carried away? A delicious pleasure often frustrating, alas, since these “classics” are now discontinued. This is why I have always been careful not to invest too much of myself emotionally and financially in what is called “vintage” fragrances.
Sniffing teatime at Olivier’s with some great vintage fragrances and some more recent masterpieces brought by all attendees – ©Emmanuelle Varron. (can you identify any of them?)
But friendship and a common passion have this ability to break down barriers. It is the collective Sunday sniffing sessions regularly organized by chemist-fragrance lover-editor Olivier (around cakes and cups of tea) that allow me to dive back into the delights of the perfumery of yesteryear. And proved to me that my olfactory culture can sometimes be lagging behind. I have the impression, during these friendly sessions, that I am rediscovering the basics of perfumery, the beauty of raw materials that have survived time… and that I have neglected some masterpieces. For example, I remember Féminité du Bois in its extract version by Shiseido. I was so taken by its beauty (bottle and fragrance), its complexity and its depth that I had tears in my eyes while smelling it. And you will easily understand that I very much regret having missed out on an almost perfect perfume in 1992. But I was just 20 at the time, and I didn’t understand it.
Inevitably, by dint of smelling a few treasures that can no longer be found on the market (except from collectors and at crazy prices), I sometimes let myself being tempted when I notice a bottle that “fleure bon” (smells good) over the past few decades. And it was a bit by chance that I came across a shop in the heart of Paris a few weeks ago. A kind of Ali Baba’s cave which at first glance looks more like a bazaar, but actually conceals great surprises. The owner of the place quickly understood that he was speaking with a perfumista and took out a few bottles well hidden in his boxes. I had fun checking the batches and going back to other decades for nearly two hours.
The panther is Cartier symbolic animal, both used for the brand’s jewelry and perfumes – ©Cartier, ©Assouline, ©DR.
Among the first he showed me was a bottle of Cartier Panthère, in its 1986 version as a “parfum de toilette” (what a funny appellation!). It stayed on the counter for a long time, patiently waiting to capture my attention. Capless, but made of beautiful, sandblasted glass with superbly chiseled cutouts reminiscent of Cartier La Panthère, its successor released in 2014. I never lost sight of it but was letting me be drawn into the discovery of unknown creations. And then, I finally devoted some time to Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette. Still installed at the counter of the boutique, I suddenly had only one desire: to discover this mythic fragrance created by Firmenich Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas of which I had only a vague memory. I thought the salesman wouldn’t want me to spray Cartier Panthère on my wrist…but I dared to ask him anyway. And it is with a frank “Of course, you can!” that he gave me the green light. What about Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette, then? The problem with perfumes that aged is that the top notes have often disappeared or mingle cheerfully with the heart notes. Identifying (all) the raw materials thus becomes a perilous exercise. I admit that looking at the (huge) olfactive pyramid, I find it difficult to perceive its entirety. So, I will tell you about it with my heart, even more than usual.
Alberto Morillas, Firmenich Master Perfumer and Cartier Panthère composer – ©Firmenich.
From the first second, I dive into the 1980s, overflowing with colors, pep, and energy; a time when perfumes were anything but timid! My tuberose-addicted skin immediately noticed that Alberto Morillas had generously integrated it into his formula. It is intoxicatingly powerful, and so carnal! I also perceive the chypre note, a little behind, but which I feel installed for a long time; there too, the dive into the “eighties” is obvious. Panthère Parfum de Toilette is generous in everything: flowers, spices, woods, balms; it has the charm of a coat that has nicely weathered over the years, a little worn but still comfortable, and that comes back to life in contact with the wearer’s skin. Already 37 years old, is a voluptuous and addictive perfume, which would make the most introverted a vamp. Its powdery note brings some sophistication that allows it not to dive into the “too much” and imposes a certain chic. Since it joined my collection (of course, I bought it!), I love wearing it in the evening, even at night before going to bed. Despite its power (and tenacity), Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette envelops me in a floral sensuality from another time like a shimmering and generous bouquet and wakes me up in the early hours of the morning in a languorous, balmy and amber sweetness. Happiness in a bottle, like a rebirth… I would even say an olfactory uplifting that I would offer myself!
Emmanuelle’s “brand new” Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette bottle, next to her Cartier La Panthère Parfum bought in 2014 – ©Emmanuelle Varron.
Of course, I compared my two Panthères to find similarities and differences. Cartier La Panthère Parfum (2014) is more animalic and plays on a modern chypre note that made it a success upon its release. Is it the advantage of (younger) age? The musk is much more noticeable in Mathilde Laurent’s creation and the rose that I do not perceive in 1986 Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette is almost omnipresent. They are two magnificent perfumes that play on a common spine but have an identity that makes them easily recognizable. I would be tempted to say that given the time of its launch, 2014 Cartier La Panthère Parfum is almost a (blessed) anomaly in the world of perfumery; 1986 Cartier Panthère is a delicious elixir to go back in time, a “vintage” that has lost none of its splendor over the years, and a great ambassador of the 1980s.
Notes: orange blossom, mandarin, ginger, cistus, pepper, grapefruit, tuberose, carnation, gardenia, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, jasmine, narcissus, heliotrope, karo karounde, iris, vetiver, civet, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, tonka bean, frankincense, patchouli, cedarwood, musk.
Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador
Emmanuelle’s Cartier Panthère Parfum de toilette 75 ml bottle – ©Emmanuelle Varron.
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