Top Ten Fragrances of 2021chosen by Olya Bar and Steven Gavrielatos
We wrap up our CaFleureBon Best of Scent Awards with the top ten fragrances of 2021 chosen by Sr. Contributor Olya Bar and Video Journalist Steven Gavrielatos Despina Veneti, we hope that you enjoyed our Editors’ and Contributors’ “Best of Scent Awards.” On behalf of the team of CaFleureBon we wish everyone a safe and scented 2022-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Top Ten Fragrances of 2021
What a year 2021 turned out to be, full of uncertainty and hope, the return to society and the new ‘norm’ has been different for each one of us. Yet, one thing has remained unchanged for me. I continued to seek comfort and inspiration in fragrances, exploring many niche, designer, and artisanal houses as often as my nose and time allowed. I feel honored and extremely grateful to have the opportunities and pleasure to try, review and enjoy many unique works of olfactory art and even though I couldn’t highlight all the beauties released in 2021, here are my top ten fragrances of 2021 that certainly deserve the love and attention.
Parfums de Marly Oriana (Hamid Merati Kashani) is a delectable scoop of marshmallow goodness. A mille-feuille of flaky sweetness, softness, and sensuality. The airy sweetness of Chantilly cream with juicy mandarin and a soft base of ambrette and musk is a feminine kiss that leaves a sugary imprint on the neck, a gourmand’s dream.
Guerlain Santal Pao Rosa (Delphine Jelk): clad in the new bottle design turned out to be a fabulous work of art. “If it were a sculpture, it would be a wooden work by Giuseppe Penone,” the artist who led the Arte Povera movement. Penone’s work takes the form of installations and sculptures comprising scented and organic woods. The composition felt like an ode to some of the earlier works of Guerlain house with depth, perfect balance, and the nutty fig-like heart creating an interesting contrast to the oud sandalwood of the base.
BDK Paris Velvet Tonka (Alexandra Carlin): Velvet Tonka, is a tribute to the Moroccan origins of founder David Benedek and the iconography associated with the region through its flavors and landscapes. Like a sweet, indulgent breeze coming straight from the Atlas Mountains. A trilogy of tonka bean, almonds, and orange blossom, an opulent delicacy dusted with icing sugar. The base is full of addictive milky Amyris wood unfurl, enhanced by ambroxan and vanilla absolute for an unparalleled velvety texture.
Issey Miyake Drop d’Issey (Ane Ayo): Drop d’Issey is a magnifying glass suspended in front of a lilac flower, capturing what peeks out from behind it. The drop reveals a butterfly hiding among the petals, magnifying the soft powdery texture of its wings, a warmth of rays against the skin in the early spring. A modern lilac is enhanced by an ethically sourced orange blossom note and an almond milk accord. A touch of musk meets upcycled cedarwood and vanillin in the base notes to give the fragrance a full-bodied finish.
Kayali Invite Only Amber 23 (Ilias Ermenidis): This somewhat overhyped fragrance by the Youtube star, turned out to be a big surprise for me. A warm, seductive, and ultra-decadent cocktail. Combining the sweet, deep, and voluptuous facets of amber and tonka bean, it creates a feeling of an expensive cigar soaked in a glass of rum. Boozy, thick, and utterly seductive. I will admit, it deserves the golden epaulets. After all, it’s one heck of a concoction.
Roja Parfums 51 Essence De Parfum (Roja Dove) is an ode to the address of Roja Parfums boutique in London; it’s an ultra-feminine composition of tart raspberries and a bouquet of white flowers. These lush white florals scream decadence with every aspect of their outfit and powdery, slightly vintage whisper from the past. I think of an elegant vanity table covered in gold crystal bottles and an apartment at the Plaza. Very Roja.
KILIAN PARIS Apple Brandy (Sidonie Lancesseur): was first conceived with perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur to open KILIAN PARIS’s New York flagship eight years ago. The fragrance returned, featuring the original apple brandy core but, this time, with an added bright uplift—KILIAN PARIS’s signature “on the rocks” accord blended into the opening for an ice-cold liquored delight expressing a uniquely KILIAN PARIS character. A blend of bergamot adds a zesty touch. Apple brandy and cardamom create a tart heart character. The packaging initially drew me in, yet I stayed for another sip and eventually couldn’t resist acquiring the bottle.
Goldfield & Banks Silky Woods (Dimitri Weber): This is the first release in the botanical collection, built around precious wood species harvested sustainably for the first time in perfume history in the Daintree Rainforest in Tropical Queensland. It was love at first sniff. The opulent texture of soft suede, warm vanilla, and smoky-sweet tobacco leaves, a refined pinch of saffron and incense with almost coconut-like ylang-ylang and native sandalwood. A very sensual and suave blend. I will say, in all honesty, I haven’t met a perfume by Dimitri I haven’t liked yet; the colors, the stories, and the blends are simply that good.
Ex Nihilo The Hedonist(Jordi Fernandez) is a modern woodsy highlight of the year for me. Centered around Akigalawood, this composition feels light and ultra-wearable. Yet, it possesses the right amount of resinous warmth, and necessary depth one expects at a specific price point for niche fragrances.
Jousset Parfums Accident A La Vanille (Jimmy Bodin) is an ode to vanilla. This Swiss based brand blends perfumes as if they were patisserie chefs. Every single fragrance from the line represents a different dessert. It starts smoky and thick and slowly transforms into a more round, delicious, and ultra-creamy scoop of vanilla ice cream, ending with a soft subtle whisper, a rather exciting interpretation. You get to discover almost all the facets of the ingredient with one wear.
–Olya Bar, Senior Contributor
2021 has been a year filled with highs and lows. During the highs you felt like you were on top of the world. During the lows, it almost felt like you were buried alive and gasping for air. Luckily, many of the highs were made possible with fragrance, and one must not underestimate the power of lifting one’s spirits with the simple application of their favorite fragrance. Fragrances have always brought me solace, and they were an especially big help for me this year. 2021 is responsible for some amazing fragrance releases, and below are my top ten fragrances of 2021:
Amouage Silver Oud (Cecile Zarokian): Amouage Silver Oud is a unique expression of oud by Cecile Zarokian that fuses together oud with cypriol and birch. The animalic tendencies of the perfume also grant the composition an unorthodox edge while vanilla establishes an agreeable element in the base. This dark and daring composition falls in line with other creations from the brand. It truly is an example of the benchmark of quality for which Amouage is known. Silver Oud is one of the most unique oud fragrances of our time.
Escentric Molecules M+ Mandarin (Geza Shon): M+ Mandarin by Escentric Molecules is the latest expression of Iso-E-Super introduced into the collection. This linear composition by Geza Schoen adds a sparkling mandarin orange note on top of a familiar DNA. The quality of the mandarin note conveys its organic tendencies, and it effectively breaks up the monotony of the original. If iris or patchouli are your thing, there are fragrances in the collection spotlighting those notes as well. M+ Mandarin is an easy-to-wear, versatile fragrance that has become my new addiction.
Memo Paris Corfu (Phillipe Parparella): Memo Paris released Corfu in 2021, and this olfactive trip takes us to the island in Greece where relaxation is key. The bright, sparkling opening is made possible on account of a bouquet of citrus notes, which include lemon, grapefruit, orange, and bergamot. Rhubarb also happens to be the star of the show as it adds a unique spin to the freshness. Rose, geranium, and raspberry make up the heart while musk, patchouli, and sandalwood create the resolute nature in the base. Corfu is simply a vacation in a bottle.
Kajal Homme II (Chris Maurice and Rosendo Mateu): is a sequel of a classic, and this time, Christian Maurice and Rosendo Mateu resume their collaboration to bring out another masterpiece. The elegant quality of this fragrance is made possible by notes of peach and orange blossom. A sprinkling of cinnamon sweetens the composition up while also giving it a bit of a spicy edge. Sweet notes along with woods in the base create the duality between saccharine and earthy. Lavender occasionally peaks its head through to remind us of the sophisticated nature of the composition.
Roja Parfums Manhattan (Roja Dove): Roja Parfums took us back to the 1920s when he released Manhattan. This Art Deco inspired perfume brings us to the Roaring Twenties where the ban on alcohol had just backfired. This classy perfume marries tobacco with vanilla and spice. Heliotrope and coconut create the fruity and floral tendencies of the blend, but the fragrance is not afraid to eventually show its dark and resinous heart with notes of benzoin and patchouli. After fragrances like Creation-E and Amber Oud, we are fully aware of the creative versatility of perfumer Roja Dove.
Nishane Shem (Lucas Sieuzac) Shem is a word that means “candle,” and the beauty of a candle is that it can share its light without sacrificing its own illumination. This is the premise behind the perfume Shem, and perfumer Lucas Sieuzac brilliantly combines a leather accord with elemi resin and cardamom. The spicy overtones are broken up by a floral bouquet of Turkish rose and geranium. Osmanthus resides in the heart along with amber for the ultimate expression of resinous warmth. Vetiver secures the feeling of earth in the base for an organic conclusion.
Jovoy Paris Fire At Will (Vanina Muracciole): Fire At Will is a gourmand expression like no other. This vanilla-based perfume combines the sweet ingredient with brown sugar and mimosa for the ultimate uniqueness. Mimosa is a light, powdery, floral ingredient that can often give off the smell of almond flour, and there is such a magical effect transpiring throughout this fragrance. You’ll surely be in heaven after smelling Fire At Will, especially if you happen to be a fan of vanilla gourmands!
Milano Fragranze Naviglio (Michelle Moelhausen): With Milano Fragranze, the brand’s founder, Alessandro Brun, takes people on an olfactive journey around the city of Milan. This city that he knows all too well is multi-faceted and full of history. With Milano Fragranze’s Naviglio, the scent is evocative of the blue-collar workers of the city washing their clothes in the nearby canals. The soapy quality of the fragrance is completely novel, and the citrus top is comprised of Neroli and bergamot from Calabria. Lavender also contributes to the soap accord, and a base of cedar and white musk create the dichotomy between earthy and clean.
Electimuss London Mercurial Cashmere (Sofia Bardell): This exceptional perfume based on Roman mythology combines cardamom with tuberose and caramel. The multi-faceted personality of the fragrances takes it into several different directions. While at times the perfume is sweet on account of the tonka bean, caramel, and vanilla, at other times the fragrance is floral on account of tuberose, violet, and iris. This complex expression makes it one of the most unique releases of 2021 and one that will shine for many years to come!
Rogue Perfumery Derviche II (Manuel Cross:): Derviche was a show-stopping expression of vanilla and tobacco that resembled the most exotic hookah flavor you can imagine. Animalic touches in the base gave light to this 2018 masterpiece. However, in 2021, Derviche II is released, and this fragrance is a slightly fresher version of the original with a noticeable dollop of agarwood! The sweet and woodsy tendencies make this one of the most exciting releases of the year, and wearers are sure to be enamored by the fruity and amber cocktail in the base. Derviche II is an amber perfume done right!
–Steven Gavrielatos, Video Fragrance Journalist
For our Top Ten Fragrances of 2021 Draw
Big Merci to François Henin, there is a 100 ml bottle of Fire At Will for one registered reader and Redolessence subscriber that live in a country that Jovoy delivers to HERE.
Thanks to Kajal, we have a draw for a 100 ml bottle of Kajal Homme II ($210) for a registered ÇaFleureBon reader in the EU, USA, Canada and UK.
Please leave a QUALITY comment with your thoughts on Olya’s and Steven’s selections, where you live and which you would like to win. You must be a registered reader. Draw closes January 3, 2021
Don’t forget to check back on draws for Michelyn and Ermano’s The Best Fragrances of 2021 here and top 10 fragrances of 2021 here
Ida and Lauryn’s Top 10 fragrances of 2021 with draws are here
Nicoleta’s and Emmanuelle’s Top 10 fragrances of 2021 with draws here
Despina’s and Rachel’s Top 10 fragrances of 2021 here
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