Scents of Wood Plum in Cognac and Scent of Woods Oud in Calvados photo by Ida
It’s been approximately two months since I traveled to NYC to ScentXplore to connect with two perfumers and a creative director. In the process I was fortunate to meet up with Creative Director Fabrice Croisé of Scents of Wood (L’ Âme du Bois in French, meaning ‘soul of wood’) and experience his lovely line of fragrances, (stockists include Luckyscent and Jovoy Parfums Rare).
Fabrice Croisé via Facebook
Monsieur Croisé may be known to many as the co-founder of Eric Buterbaugh Florals, a glorious assemblage of fragrances composed by renowned Firmenich perfumers. Scents of Wood enlists the talents of renowned noses, many of whom are IFF perfumers and utilizes many of IFF’s incomparable natural materials from the Laboratoire Monique-Remy in Grasse (affiliated with IFF). It should come as no surprise, then – that the house’s perfumes possess a lifelike visage and impeccable quality. Every single one is a delight to wear. The very first one I tried – Scents of Wood Oud in Calvados – delighted me forthwith; the second, Plum in Cognac – became my first purchase, and has been receiving a great deal of attention of late. If you peruse the scent chart on their website in an effort to winnow away your choice, you’ll find that both of my fragrances are listed under WOODY BOOZY.
According to various sources, Monsieur Croisé had a specific vision in mind when he developed his new line. He wanted to raise his four children in a more wholesome environment, which led him to move his family to Utah, with its rugged mountains and forests.
oak tree via Scents of Woods
“Scents of Wood is a journey into the magical mystery of forests and trees. Forests make us fall in love with nature and the universe. They are an exploration of the senses and ShinrinYoku, our brand’s Japanese name, is about capturing that feeling, that pull, that attraction. It loosely translates to “Forest Bathing”, a form of walking meditation amongst trees.” ~ from the website
Scents of Woods Barrels via the brand
To date, nine different varieties of wooden barrels (both aged and new – the latter constructed of old wood) have been explored by Scent of Woods’ perfumers. The organic alcohol aged in them yielded considerable inspiration: American oak, French oak, chestnut, vintage Cognac, acacia, vintage maple, hinoki, vintage rye, and vintage Calvados. The culmination of these endeavors has resulted in a depth of feeling and nuance which are soulfully reflected in each of the 11 fragrances.
Scents of Wood Plum in Cognac and Pascal Gaurin collage by Michelyn photos via the brand
Scent of Woods Plum in Cognac is currently sold out, understandably. Although not specifically listed, it’s clear that a vintage Cognac barrel has been responsible for this celestial potion: lusciously ripe plums are irresistibly spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, partnered with the delicately leathered fruitiness of osmanthus and honeyed, haylike immortelle – which smells softly smoky and tobacco-redolent. Heavy, resinous Haitian vetiver is cautiously dosed here, as is the shadow-beauty of labdanum (also leathery in character). Peru balsam and vanilla contribute sweetness and woodiness; rum smells true and mouthwatering. I decanted a considerable quantity for a recent gathering of fellow fragrance fiends, who were drawn to Plum in Cognac like wasps to jam; and although I am not as fond of sweet gourmands as many are, I love this one myself. It simply purrs, even on those with sweet-amplifying skin like mine. Boozy, indeed. Notes: rum absolute, purple plum, cinnamon bark, nutmeg, Peru balsam, osmanthus, immortelle absolute, vetiver Haïti, vanilla, cistus labdanum
Natasha Côté-Mouzannar and Scents of Wood Oud in Calvados collage by Michelyn photos via the brand
Scents of Wood Oud in Calvados is a must for anyone who adores a good fermented apple – be it cider, brandy, schnapps or Calvados. Those who (like me) enjoy streaming the Nordic Noir series Beck will appreciate the Calvados reference; it’s the titular protagonist’s libation of choice – and all Meisters relish a taste of it every now and then. In Normandy, it’s added to cod in a cream sauce with apples (be still, my heart!). As a perfume, the deliberate, thoughtful choice of oud as aromatic consort was a brilliant one. An initial burst of zesty bergamot and pink pepper awaken the senses before they disperse into the aether. What ensues is mysteriously heady, with subtlety being its strong point. The embarrassment of woody riches – cedar, oak and oud – are embellished by a very arid dark cocoa absolute. Rose de mai plays beautifully with all the other components, as she is wont to do, rounding out any sharp edges and harmonizing. And that vintage Calvados barrel! There is nothing like it, from where I sit. Of the two scents I chose, Scents of Wood Oud in Calvados is the drier, slightly astringent one and smokier into the bargain, but it never overwhelms in any of these areas. You are in the cave, in the barrel. Absolute veracity – from one who has visited its provenance. Notes: Calvados, pink pepper, Italian bergamot, cocoa absolute, oakwood, rose de mai, Atlas cedarwood, Virginia cedarwood, oud
Both Plum in Cognac and Scents of Wood Oud in Calvados possess excellent tenacity; they are different enough to warrant purchasing both. Caveat emptor, though: sampling may lead to craving them all – or at least, a good number of them. The flacons are works of art in themselves – heavy, lovely in the hand and to gaze upon, they are available in several color combinations and resemble the shape of the heart – with a branch of aorta (also available in several finishes) which is the cap. Stunning.
Fragrances are those I purchased (from my own collection). My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
It is not easy to access individual samples of all of these fragrances, so I am offering a glass flacon decant (from my collection) of either Scents of Wood Plum in Cognac OR Oud in Calvados to one registered reader in the continental US. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review of Plum in Cognac and Oud in Calvados, which one you might prefer and state you live in the USA. Draw closes 2/7/2023
Please see Karl Topham’s mini review of Scents of Wood Cedre Mineral by Celine Barel featured in his recent Lunar Year of the Water Rabbit article
Editor’s Note: Scents of Wood Plum in Cognac was the recipient of The Fragrance Foundation USA Perfume Extraordinaire 2021 -Michelyn
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