Not Perfumes Vaan Review (Johanna Venables) + Northern Lights Draw

 

               

Johanna Venables Photo by Karolina Olsen Haglund©

Not Perfumes, a new concept out of Sweden, spearheaded by Johanna Venables is completely ‘Out of the box’. I was fortunate to meet Johanna in the courtyard of Pitti Fragranze 2018, there was something extraordinary and penetrating about her which as it transpires translates with some force into her NOT perfumes.  Hence, how could I not be drawn to her work, of high sorcery, like a devotee in the temple.

Justin Shuih©

They are aptly named as ‘Not Perfumes’, with a sub heading of Olfactory Art.  Johanna dares us by taking the safety net from beneath, by finding her deepest creative impulses unfettered, using banned ingredients and allowing us the choice to wear on skin or not, advising the wearing on fabric and accoutrements. Subversive in their formulae, they are a rekindling of the deepest essence of the Perfumers conjuring, urging the past into existence with a contemporary hand.  Unrestrained and slightly dangerous, but how she inspires and draws back the regulatory veils that have masked the real Beauty, in a world obsessed by safety. Like a darkened room suddenly illuminated by the revelation of streaming Sunlight. For this amongst other reasons I admire her. Within the sample box I eagerly awaited, fumes of a different genre escaped, purity of expression brazen and tangible.

Paolo Roversi Vlada Roslyakova©

From the five of the collection, all of which are quite profound to me, I must choose one and in the absolute reflection of Life imitating Art, the spice ridden Not Perfumes Vaan has a tale to unravel.  Scandinavian scents often juxtapose the clarity of Northern Light, with a purity that magnifies air and allows the scent through its unobstructed lens to be illuminated, yet within a cocoon of dense earthiness and piercing, spirited vegetation. Luminosity sprung from otherworldly earthiness like the scent of needle point fir balsam piercing frosted air. Like secrets cosseted in a dusty coffer.

Diogo Costta©

Not Perfumes Vaan, like the God Janus has a steadfast foothold in both past and future. Meeting place of light and dark, of warmth and chill. The reality of mundanity equidistant with a yearning of an idyll. A promise of a Northern refuge, at the back of the North Wind.  Borne on winds of translucency afforded by the citrus. Deep Earth, piquant balsam and spices in cordial hospitality.

Natalia Vodianova, Ellen von Unwerth, Vogue Italia 2002

Elements light like small lamps burning in a single room, each one distinct yet in a synergetic revelry dancing like the shadows cast on whitewashed stone interiors, Cinnamon, Cloves and Pepper entice the taper framed window, fingers on frosted glass, warming flesh after icy externals. A flush emanates from my skin ignited after the forceful caress of frozen streams of air.

Dream Traveller, Dark Ages©

In mid-blush of mellow glow, roseate tints grace my face, Rose, dusty and immortal in bowls of desiccated petals, yet brim full of ‘elan vital’ pungency.  A seeping warmth, Benzoin and Cistus spiral, creamy cured flesh and animalic pelt melded with burning herbs in the hearth, penetrate spirit and flesh.  Incensorial, balsamic chords of Opoponax, Labdanum, Civet just beneath the surface, like hidden earth under snow, darkly tempestuous. 

Children of the Winter Forest Dana Scully©

Sweet and animalic in the evolution, Vaan releases a breath in gasps of warmed flesh overlaid with furs for hours, a fragrance of gratifying, nectarous easement. Not Perfumes Vaan Is the Illumination of the Dark and the Dark comforting embrace of the Radiant.

Notes:·Bergamot, Cinnamon, Cloves, Neroli, Pink Pepper, Coriander, Cistus,  Rose, Benzoin,  Labdanum, Vanilla, Civet, Castoreum, Opoponax ·

Danu Seith-Fyr, Sr Contributor; Nose and opinions my own, I dared to wear.

Sample set received with gratitude from Johanna Venables, Not Perfumes

Not Perfumes Vaan, Svaha, Orm, Ashka and Nadir Set Danu Seith-Fyr 2019

Thanks to the generosity of Johanna Venables and Not Perfumes we have a Sample Box of 5 Perfumes, for one registered reader Worldwide (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about Not Perfumes concept and Danu’s review and where you live. Draw closes 2/23/2019

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @danu_sf @notperfumes

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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26 comments

  • cressit says:

    It was so interesting to think about the ways our world has become too safe and regulated. I loved the way Danu suggests that Not Perfume, Olfactory Art challenges that new normal by using banned ingredients and giving the person the freedom to chose if they apply to skin or not. On a cold, clear, crisp day the image of fir needles piercing frosted air is very appealing.

    Thank you for the generous chance to try these fragrances. I live in the US.

  • Ana-Maria Gașpar says:

    When I first entered and saw The pictures, then read The article, they sent me în The Middle Age, where everything has hidden meanings.
    I’m from E. U., Romania

  • INYA says:

    This, to me, is an interesting brand. The juice in the vials looks deep and mysterious. Love the concept. USA

  • Timea says:

    Sounds interesting, and unique. I would like to try those samples. Thanks for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • middleagedandmixed says:

    I had heard about this fragrance house and am interested because they aren’t playing safe. Instead of adhering to rules, they are leaving it up to the consumer to make that choice for themselves. I loved that Danu was daring enough to wear and the review makes Vaan sound so magical and mystical. Thanks from the U.S.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I love the cheeky way this brand skirts around those pesky restrictions! Probably my favorite thing about them. I looked at their website a while ago too, though, and it seems as if their scents are very complex and dark. That was reinforced in this lovely review–loved the metaphor of the spices serving as little individual lights sparking in a room and casting s warm glow! So intrigued by this brand and would love to try the whole lot! Thanks for the draw. I’m in the us.

  • Marcus says:

    Like hidden earth under snow? The Illumination of the Dark?? Consider me hooked! I would love to win this to Switzerland, thank you for the draw.

  • Katie says:

    To create is to breathe and to create against a tide of fear and prejudice is very brave. I would LOVE to try NOT perfumes because I may catch a glimpse of a forgotten world of perfumery. I live in the U.K.

  • tannina says:

    This is a clever way to ignore the IFRA. I like civet and labdanum a lot, so count me in. And thanks for the draw. Such an interesting perfumer.

  • Belladonna says:

    Love the way this is written -like a story. Really like how Not Perfumes lets the consumer decide and brings back the old magik. Would love to samples these! In the US. Thanks for the chance!

  • audesko1 says:

    Not Perfumes, is an interesting name and sound like some interesting combinations of fragrances and scents, Loves the article, Danu. I would love to sample them.. Thank you I live in the US.

  • NiceVULady says:

    “Scandinavian scents often juxtapose the clarity of Northern Light, with a purity that magnifies air and allows the scent through its unobstructed lens to be illuminated, yet within a cocoon of dense earthiness and piercing, spirited vegetation. Luminosity sprung from otherworldly earthiness like the scent of needle point fir balsam piercing frosted air.” Danu expressed best what these fragrances are about. Anything I could say wouldn’t be nearly as evocative. Thanks for a beautiful and thoughtful review with fantastic art work. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • LadyoftheOakenForest says:

    Scandinavian perfumers are definitely getting more prominent on the perfume stage, so many great things are coming from this part of the world. These sound absolutely divine, would love to be able to test them.
    I am based in the UK.

  • Osman says:

    For me creamy cured flesh sounds very scary. The box looks very nice with the samples inside. Interesting scent.
    I live in EU.

  • scenteuphoria says:

    Oh My, how exciting!! I have been following Not Perfumes for a while now, the return to the deep heart of the art of perfumery is what intrigues me about Johanna’s creations. Just reading about them makes me want to walk through the forest in the snow at midnight to feel the magic, then curl up under a warm blanket with a hot drink and read the most magical story that takes me away to another world. Vaan is at the top of my wish list, I would so love to try these beauties so thank you for the opportunity to win. I do live in the US.

  • doveskylark says:

    I have always dreamed about living in Sweden, seeing the Northern Lights, filing my Stockholm apartment with small lamps and candles. I love the notes in Vaan, the combination warm indeed, but maybe at times a bit icy clear.
    I live in the USA.

  • Cynthia says:

    What a beautifully evocative review and the photos fit perfectly! The word light seems to keep figuring into the perfumes makeup and that’s interesting as Sweden’s position on the globe gives long periods of light as well as dark. Lovely!

  • Monica Beaton says:

    Thank you Danu for such an interesting story. I love hearing about perfumers who push against the mainstream and create fragrances that challenge our idea of what fragrance is all about. Beautiful artwork too! Intrigued!

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Fabulous just Fabulous!!!!! I love the courage of NOT Perfumes for such creations with banned ingredients & would love to buy the entire range of NOT perfumes. I applied pure Arabian attars / oils on my skin, even essential oils used for diffuser. Count me in please.
    Thanks for the generosity & opportunity. Pakistan

  • Hasib says:

    Interesting and something different. The juice look dark and rich with mystery. Not Perfumes take you back to the Vikings days. Thanks, US

  • Ginny M says:

    Not Perfume, indeed! Danu makes the offerings sound like pure magic (especially the spicy promise of Vaan)! I think what intrigues me the most is the idea that Johanna uses banned ingredients and suggests perhaps wearing on accessories and clothing, not skin: I love a little danger in my scents! I live in the USA.