Jane Cate in her studio, photo by Tama Blough

I am noticing a trend in natural perfumery lately that I very much enjoy. I am seeing much lighter fragrances, full of flowers and greenery and citruses, without the slightly heavy drydown that can be the downfall of many natural perfumes. The two new fragrances I received from Jane Cate of A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes, Jade and Verde are fine examples of this lighter trend.  

Celadon jade carving

Jade was inspired by the beauty of the lighter green Celadon Jade. The very first sniff reminded me of the way my father’s fire pits smelled when he was firing pottery in the raku technique, which requited heaps of fresh eucalyptus. Most people know the mentholated smell of eucalyptus oil, but smelling the real deal is different. It is slightly mentholated, but mostly green and quite clean. Jade is not a eucalyptus perfume and has none in it. Some combination of notes, perhaps linden and lavender combined with the citrus top notes, took me back to that happy pit that brought forth such beauty, There are lovely floral notes in this perfume, but the linden really stood out for me, which was good, because linden just screams summer to me. This lovely, summery scent lingers quite nicely, with mild sillage, and was nice for down-shirt huffing though the early part of the day.

Notes: Kaffir lime leaf, Meyer lemon, bergamot, jasmine sambac, linden blossom, rose geranium, lilac isolate, and lavender absolute.

"The Dream" by Henri Rousseau

Jane had been working on a jasmine and mint perfume since last year, and not quite finding the right combination, had an epiphany to add yuzu and a Green Leaf accord to create Verde. She used mint from her own garden, much greener than toothpaste mint that happens in some perfumes. The jasmine peeks out here and there, but I consider this a truly green fragrance. The citrus top is brusque and leaves after its showy entrance, leaving a slight whiff of mint that ushers in the main act. The perfume itself is quite changeable; every time I put nose to wrist, I get a different concept on what it is to smell greenery. Truly, I have huffed every few minutes to see what’s happening and it’s something new, like wandering an amusement park. What fun!

Notes: Mimosa, yuzu, Meyer lemon, jasmine sambac, green leaf accord, rose, garden mint, galbanum

Verde 1 oz bottle, Jade 1 and 2 oz. bottles

I have been following Jane for several years and always enjoy what she has to offer. She continues to explore new territory, just working in her home studio with closets filled with ingredients and works-in-progress. I look forward to what strikes her fancy next.

I received my samples from A Wing & A Prayer. Jade is available in I oz. or 2 oz. etched bottles for $60 and $90, respectively. Verde is available in the 1 oz. etched bottle for $75 on the A Wing & A Prayer etsy store

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

Thanks to Jane Cate and A Wing & A Prayer, we have a US reader’s choice draw for a ¼ oz spray bottle of either Jade or Verde.  Let us know which you would prefer and why, and that you live in the US. Draw closes August 12, 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.