L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse and L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris de Gris are part of the Le Potager collection, just launched by the brand and inspired by vegetables. Here, staged like an ancient book on botany – Book, torn page, fennel, green pea and woodfloor ©Pixabay, bottles ©L’Artisan Parfumeur, collage and montage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

L’Artisan Parfumeur is a brand that has had quite an impact on my life since my earliest childhood. My mother has been a loyal customer since its creation in 1976, as L’Artisan Parfumeur Pomme Cannelle and L’Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Bourbon were among my perfumes as a little girl. At that time, it was one of the first French “niche” brands, only sold at its own boutique and all the fragrances created by Jean Laporte, a chemist in love with raw materials and perfumes like no other.

L’Artisan Parfumeur has been an  an olfactive thread throughout my life.  I have been on the brand’s sales team twice; first in 2010, then part time in December 2021. When I was told that a new collection inspired by the vegetable garden was to be launched in the spring of 2022, I couldn’t wait to try it! And so did I a few weeks ago, as I was able to test all the fragrances; both daring and surprising, even sometimes divisive. Of course, this is not the first time that vegetable notes have been used in perfumery (L’Artisan Parfumeur launched its famous Eau de Céleri in 1978 – which is unfortunately difficult to t0 find) and I have always loved Etat Libre d’Orange Like This (and its pumpkin note) or Comme des Garçons Radish Vetiver. But this is the first time that an entire collection has been dedicated to vegetables, that put them front and center.

 Vétiver Écarlate, Cédrat Céruse, Iris de Gris, Musc Amarante and Tonka Blanc are the five fragrances of the new l’Artisan Parfumeur Le Potager collection – ©L’Artisan Parfumeur

L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Potager collection is composed of five fragrances that pay homage to cauliflower, tomato, green pea, beetroot and fennel. Each name features the “classic” note accompanied by an adjective inspired by the color of the chosen vegetable, which also guided the color of the “jus”. For this collection, L’Artisan Parfumeur enlisted Quentin Bisch (who created in 2018 L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica) and Alexandra Carlin, for whom this is the first collaboration with the brand.

 

Symrise perfumer Alexandra Carlin – ©Alex Bonnemaison, L’Artisan Parfumeur Tonka Blanc – ©L’Artisan Parfumeur, montage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tonka Blanc (White Tonka) was composed by Symrise perfumer Alexandra Carlin. Out of the five fragrances, it is the only one that actually uses a natural vegetable extract; Symrise has in fact developed SymTrap®, an extraction technology making it possible to create ingredients from by-products of the food industry, promoting upcycling. Alexandra Carlin was inspired by the naturopath Jennifer Hart-Smith’s cauliflower cheesecake recipe. A cozy and soothing fragrance.

Tonka Blanc notes: SymTrap® cauliflower, bergamot, mandarin, Tonkalactone®.

Givaudan perfumer Quentin Bisch – ©Givaudan, L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse, Iris de Gris, Vétiver Écarlate and Musc Amarante – ©L’Artisan Parfumeur, montage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Four of the five were created by Givaudan perfumer Quentin Bisch.

Fans of vetiver will surely want to try Vétiver Écarlate as this perfume remains faithful to one of the most illustrious raw materials in perfumery, a woodiness here offset by a tomato leaf accord. A revisited and modernized classic. Vétiver Écarlate notes: grapefruit, bergamot, galbanum, tomato leaf accord, ginger, vetiver.

Musc Amarante (Amaranth Musk) took time for me love and it settles (beautifully) on my skin. I thought it would be a vegetable version of the mythical L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc… but it’s much more “earthy” than that thanks to the beetroot accord. Undoubtedly the most divisive creation of the collection. Musc Amarante notes: mandarin, pink pepper, beetroot accord, bergamot, ambrette, vetiver, ambergris, musk.

Autumn beard man by Giuseppe Arcimboldo (1526-1593)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse (White Lead Citron) is my favorite. When it comes to perfumes, I seem to gravitate to those in my comfort zone (tuberose, amber, leather); or a fragrance that takes me to an unfamiliar olfactory universe. There is no in between. There are many fragrances with citron but I have never found one I liked; too fresh, too zesty, too volatile: not for me. When I first tested L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse, I had no particular expectations. Rather fond of fennel in the kitchen (and its little aniseed taste), I could even imagine it in a perfume, but from there… to succumb? And yet…

Imagine an ultra-fresh opening with and elegant lemon-fennel duo, full of powerful and deliciously aromatic aniseed notes, surrounded by rolls of licorice and refreshed by tangy lemonade. Immediate memories of childhood, summer holidays and a bright, warm and comforting sun flooded my senses. The coriander brings a spicy touch that makes L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse a little more sparkling, reinforced by the pink pepper. This vivacity does not weaken but softens a little thanks to the contribution of musk.  Interestingly, the lemon-fennel duet are well balanced and seems to stay on my skin for many hours. But my initial impressions would not have become true love without the floral facet in the background. The Mahonial© is revealed, a molecule developed by Givaudan mixing notes of lily of the valley and magnolia adds sensuality and sweetness. Citrusy, aromatic, spicy and floral: a winning and unexpected combo for me, and a perfume which, despite its fresh character, can be worn in all seasons. Notes: lemon, pink pepper, fennel essence, coriander, musk, Mahonial®.

 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse and L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris de Gris displayed at L’Artisan Parfumeur rue Saint-Honoré Paris flagship – ©Emmanuelle Varron

With L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris de Gris, I was curious to discover how it paired with green pea. Looking at its composition, I suspected that it would not evoke the world of cosmetics, powdery and lipstick-style with which  Iris is often associated. To my nose, it is a floral and herbal interpretation of Iris (à la Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist), with a VIP vegetable note. My first impression, on blotter, was rather a disappointment: acrid, dry and very papery. But on skin, it was the opposite: an exquisite revelation. Quentin Bisch’s creation is a green, earthy and intense iris. The opening is raw, and feels like the flower was picked from nature, with the green pea accord adding a crunchy and fresh aspect intensified by a spicy but subtly dosed mint, with a tangy facet brought by blood orange. As the minutes go by, L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris de Gris becomes even greener and grassier thanks to the galbanum which gives it also an ultra-chic character. Ambroxan adds roundness that allows the perfume to cling to the skin. It’s a true skin fragrance, which subtly mingles floral, aromatic and herbal ingredients together. A “niche” iris of stunning beauty. Iris de Gris notes: blood orange, mint, green pea accord, iris, white musk, galbanum, ambroxan.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Potager collection will undoubtedly create a buzz in the coming weeks and may inspire fragrance lovers to embrace new olfactory territories (did you ever think you would spritz on your vegetables). We all can appreciate that perfumers are turning to new ingredients and creating innovative accords that reinvent the perfumer’s palette.

Disclaimer: as a part-time saleswoman for LArtisan Parfumeur, I was able to try all Le Potager fragrances for a few weeks. The opinions expressed are my own.

Emmanuelle Varron, Editor

L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse and L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris de Gris 100 ml bottles with their ” Toile de Jouy ” packaging – ©L’Artisan Parfumeur

 

Thanks to L’Artisan Parfumeur, we have a 100 ml of L’Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse OR L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris de Gris for one registered reader in USA, UK and EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment on what you feel about Emmanuelle’s review, which out of the two fragrances you would like to win and where you live. Draw closes 04/08/2022.

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