Jorum Studio Trimerous by J

Jorum Studio Trimerous was my first experience of the creative output of Chloe Mullen and perfumer Euan McCall and I was quickly back exploring more. The mysteries of life have made it so I ended up spending more time out in nature or living surrounded by it more than I thought I ever would. I’m a city lover, but many of my of my childhood summers were spent camping and later when older, doing art residencies in various parts of Scandinavia and further afield it was hard to escape. In Lillehammer I could hop a fence and be deep into the woods, surrounded by nature feeling watched by moose and deer. I find many of Jorum Studio perfumes deeply evocative; memories flood back of childhood summers with Healing Berry and Medullary-Ray makes me think of evenings with friends later in life, while Arborist puts me back deep in those Norwegian woods, I spent a year living beside.

Euan McCall Courtesy of The Perfumer

Euan McCall works with some unusual materials in his fragrances; the herb cicely and fruit cloudberries are used in the composition of Trimerous, I have seen and smelled cicely in the wild without knowing and have ingested cloudberries along with cream in Norway. It’s these materials that give an edge to the Jorum Studio perfume lines; they give a unique botanical feel to these wonderful perfumes. If you have been following me on Instagram at all you’d know my love of iris in perfumery, Jorum Studio Trimerous is unlike any other iris I know or have smelled, it explores the lesser-known facets of iris like its aromatic side with hoppy aromas while showing off its silvery cool feel. The materials chosen allow the perfume  to shimmer with delicate rich complex tones as if it’s composed with elegant scented veils and musks that dance around a stunning Florentine orris butter.

 

Vincent van Gogh, Irises, 1890, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

There’s a Van Gogh painting of irises in The Met’s collection that makes me think of Jorum Studio Trimerous. Painted in 1890 before he checked himself out of the asylum at Saint-Rémy, he painted a series of flowers, two rose and two irises. The one owned by The Met has changed a lot since it was first painted, the pink background he originally sought as a harmonious and softening effect, with the violet flower has faded to an elegant silvery white. The current colour palette of Van Gogh’s painting reminds me of Trimerous and just like the pink paint faded, these new beautiful silvery tones highlight the irises in a similar way as Euan McCall does with his materials in Trimerous.

 White Iris photo by Ogawa Kazumasa free photo

The opening of Trimerous feels like diving into a fresh cold-water lake, naked, your cool smooth sensual buttery orris skin glides through icy water full of aromatics, letting the botanical greens of juniper, angelica and thyme enrobe you as you return to the surface. A soft chill is in the air as you lay out drying, you can feel the cool orris dry slowly becoming velvety and powdery in texture, almost that concrete like petrichor feel as the water evaporates. Yet it’s your skin that’s turning into this sensual dusty woody aroma, letting herbal greens sparkle with icy sharp pink peppers and dry carrot seed teasing out some pear textures and green hops aromas from the orris, while rich nectarines drip with a tart sweetness as a counter to the verdancy.

J’s 15ml bottle and box of Jorum Studio Trimerous

Silvery slivers of birch flicker with these translucent aromatic greens and herbal blues, bringing a suede like darkness to the velvety orris. It’s joined by a swirl of complex delicious fruity florals, lurking like animals in the forest under the aromatics and silver woods. A soft haze of wild berries and dry cacao blur beautifully with what feels like a blue lotus flower tinted green, giving that waxy dry sensation while still feeling watery and cool. Gentle chalky orris facets get sensual, as they grow fuller with leathery undertones. The use of materials in Jorum Studio Trimerous is rather brilliant, as they tease out these more unique facets of the Florentine orris butter, pushing it into a direction you don’t usually experience.

A soft darkness of oud like whispers of leathers rubbed with herbs, letting out a gentle smooth animalic purr. Jorum Studio Trimerous is darkened and enriched by this soft suede fur and wears like a dark orris incense plume wrapping around you. It adds a subtle vintage feel feeling opulent as more of the rich dark resinous woods bring out new depths. Trimerous is more contemporary in feel, taking its rich opulent smoky fur feel from older perfumes, while letting you bath in nature and orris’ finery. Jorum Studio lines capture nature so well with those unique materials from the wilds of Scotland and beyond, giving you and experience like no other.

Notes: Carrot Seed, Bergamot, Nectarine, Thyme, Cicely, Pink Pepper, Juniper, Cloudberry, Angelica Root. Orris Butter, Kombucha, Centaury, Suede, Musk*, Ambergris, Styrax, Vanilla, Incense. *of synthetic origin.

Disclaimer: Review is of my own bottle of Jorum Studio Trimerous. My opinions are my own. P.S. I like it so much I have a backup.

 

J Wearescentient, Contributor

photo courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have a 30ml of Jorum Studio Trimerous for one registered reader in the USA only. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest about J WeareScentient’s review and if you have tried a Jorum Studio perfume. Draw closes  10/9/2023

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Euan McCall was Michelyn’s Best Artisan of 2022 and CaFleureBon Rising Star of 2019.

Please enjoy Rachel Watson’s review of Pony Boy, enjoy Ida’s reviews of Spiritcask, The Scottish Odyssey quartet, Pentimento and Elegy, Athenaeum and Carduus and Nectary.

The Jorum Studio Scottish Odyssey Quartet was awarded Best of 2022 by Ida. 

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