Jeroboam Ambra by Karl©

“He’s loved in seven languages

Diamond nights and ruby lights high in the sky…

A license to love, insurance to hold

Melts all your memories and change to gold.”

Lyrics from Smooth Operator sung by Sade Adu from the 1984 album Diamond Life

 

Singer Sade Adu poses on January 27, 1984. (Photo by B. Gomer/Express/Getty Images) 

Jeroboam is an intriguing brand. The name is a juxtaposition to the presentation. Tongue in cheek. A subtle nod to luxury and a reference to scent as larger than the minute sleek onyx and gold flacons which, house these powerful extrait de parfums. The modus operandi of Francois Henin, founder of Jeroboam, was to create the most potent and sensual fragrances available. Perfume in his view is, “A weapon for those who know how to use it.”

Each fragrance in the collection is named after a word in Esperanto, a language invented in the 19th century. This communication was built with the intent of creating a universal dialogue for all. The central ingredient to each perfume in the collection is the ‘muscs enigmatiques’ accord, a cocktail of musks. Carnal and animalic, thus the ‘modus operandi’ is clear – perfume as a language of seduction, a license to love.

 Francois Henin, Official Jeroboam©

As with the whole collection, Monsieur Henin enlisted the talented perfumer Vanina Muracciole to create Jeroboam Ambra. Known for developing exciting twists to her perfumes, Madame Muracciole uses this ability to significant effect here. Ambra announces itself with a sparkling and dynamic opening of bergamot, which, combined with geranium gives a cool and crystalline character. This introduction is bolstered with a slightly smoky incense and the impression is one of a bright starry night set against a midnight sky. It is an unexpected opening, to an ‘amber’ scent and one that sets the butterflies whirling in the stomach as a prelude of what is to come. Cold nights contrast hot blood and heated emotions…

Photograph Vanina Muracciole, Official Jeroboam©

The transition of Jeroboam Ambra is seductively smooth. Minty aspects of geranium melt wonderfully into the earthiness of patchouli. Wisps of hot dark chocolate from the introduction of Peru Balsam combine beautifully into the lingering fresh and herbaceous touch that still pervades the air. To treat powerful ingredients like these with such delicate diligence is no mean feat and the impact is an intoxicating blend that delights. Surreptitiously, the scent maneuvers and it becomes more buttery, creamy, and lighter. By this time, the iridescent and ebullient aspects of Ambra have departed and swaths of Jeroboam’s signature musks begin to cocoon you. The outward appearance of cool aloofness suddenly betrayed by a warm heart.

 Sade (Photo by B. Gomer/Express/Getty Images) 

Jeroboam Ambra transforms into a creamy blend of tonka bean and vanilla, that said, the use of Haitian vetiver subtly prolongs the earthy facets throughout the lifecycle of the scent. We are left with an extremely alluring perfume that in tandem with the skin is quite flirtatious and seductive – melting one’s memories of the fresh opening and embracing gold, lustrous tones. As a result, Ambra goes against the grain of typical amber scents. However, the culmination is still one that is deeply rich and addictive. It is testament to Vanina Muracciole’s talent that she has created a perfume that can both surprise and enrapture in equal measure. It is a scent that takes you by surprise and by the end one is transfixed in the luxurious and tempting nature of it. Jeroboam Ambra truly is a ‘Smooth Operator’ – an original and stirring take on the fantasy accord we think we know so well.

Notes: Bergamot, incense, geranium, patchouli, Peru Balsam, musk, tonka-bean, vetiver, and vanilla.

Disclaimer: Jeroboam Ambra kindly provided by Jeroboam (Jovoy Mayfair). My opinions are my own.

Karl Topham, Contributor

Photo courtesy of Jeroboam

Thanks to the generosity of Jovoy Paris and Jeroboam we have a 30 ml bottle of Jeroboam Ambra for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK, UAE You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Karl’s review and where you live. Have you tried Jeroboam before?  Draw closes  2/5/2022

Please read Emmanuelle’s review of Miksado, Nicoleta’s review of Boha and Floro, Dana’s review of Ligno and Michelyn’s introduction of Gozo.

Jeroboam Ambra was launched in 2017

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