Olfactive Studio Panorama montage by TSF©

“So here I stand before you preaching organic architecture: declaring organic architecture to be the modern ideal and the teaching so much needed if we are to see the whole of life and to now serve the whole of life, -holding no traditions essential to the great TRADITION.” The Natural House – Frank Lloyd Wright (1954)

The Sheats-Goldstein House In L.A. by Miguel Sandinha

The term “Organic Architecture” was first introduced by Frank Lloyd Wright as a philosophy of conceiving buildings as not only using natural design motifs and materials, but also putting buildings in dialogue with the natural landscape encompassing it. As an evolution of Lloyd Wright theories, U.S. Modernist Architect John Lautner (a Lloyd Wright’s pupil) developed his sheer style exemplified at best in the Sheats–Goldstein Residence (1961-1963) where he designed not only the house, but the interiors, windows, lighting, rugs, furniture, and operable features. The whole project was approached as an extension of the natural environment addressing the challenges of the site. Blown away by the tension between inside and outside, bucolic and urban, transparent and concrete, the eye can’t help but traveling. Olfactive Studio Creative Director Céline Verleure wanted Panorama to channel this energy so, following her creative process, on May 2014, she and Parisian-based photographer Miguel Sandinha flew to Beverly Crest in Los Angeles, California to photograph the legendary location. The final image is powerful.

Perfumer Clément Gavarry via Olfactive Studio

Lautner’s sharp structures melding into the lush green portrayed by Mr. Sandinha found a perfect match in the hands of Perfumer Clément Gavarry (S.J. Parker Lovely, Tom Ford Black Violet…), the son of renowned perfumer Max Gavarry (Dolce&Gabbana pour homme, Prada Amber…). who was working on the smell of wasabi back in the early 2010’s. The intuition of Lloyd Wright paved the way to a new conception of living spaces and to sustainability. Likewise, the vegetal pungency of the Japanese horseradish shining through Panorama paved the way to the new concept of “Organic Perfumery” preceding the recent use of unusual edible notes that (both natural and synthetic) like artichoke and beetroot. Oozing an unprecedented blazing verdancy, Olfactive Studio Panorama is a game-changer and deserves to be inducted into the ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces Hall of Fame.

 “Green and wild, Panorama is the perfume of an urban jungle, an interplay of original combinations, like this surprising accord of hot and spicy wasabi. When notes of myrrh spring up among other warm and bewitching resin-based notes, an incredible contrast emerges with elegance. A full-bodied, generous, and unexpected composition, Panorama opens up the olfactory imagination.”-a note from the brand

 Wasabi plant – Illustration published in 1828 in botanical encyclopedia by Iwasaki Kanen (1786-1842) 

Panorama kicks off with the mouthwatering greenery promised by the Olfactive Studio official description, and that’s hard to tell whether the urban jungle it’s all around or in your plate. The feeling of having a picnic, opening your Hakata bento box to nibble sashimi, shitake mushrooms and bamboo shoots outdoors is flawlessly rendered by the astringent piquancy of Gavarry’ composition. A hand of guava and fig leaves enhance the aromatic juiciness of the savory debut. Lavish galbanum and dewy violet leaves strokes in the heart seamlessly transition the neon-green initial impression to the balmier nuances of the base. Fruity-tinged myrrh, fir balsam and tonka bean go hand-in-hand with the nutty hues of wasabi extending the Japanese root’s magic. Tarry labdanum and smoldering amber hint on skin to the warmth of Los Angeles at dusk for a very wearable scent still bearing a glimpse of sunburnt foliage.

For chemistry geeks like me, it is fascinating to learn that only in recent years has in-depth analysis revealed the whole spectrum of odorants responsible for the smell of wasabi. If most of these molecules are nose-burning and can’t be used in perfumery, one of the main components is the fascinating Galbazine.

2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine molecule wiki apped by Michelyn

Galbazine is the commercial name of 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine, a molecule that was identified for the first time in green peppers and later synthesized by a team of researchers at the U.S. Department of Agriculture in 1969. They also noted how devastatingly powerful this odorant is: go figure only 2 parts of this substance can scent 1K Billion parts of water! So how does Galbazine smell? Freshly sliced green peppers is the reference, but the sappy verdure typical of galbanum comes along unfolding nutty and floral hues. Aside from being present in green peppers and of course wasabi, in nature it also found in trace amounts in various vegetables as well as in grapes, petitgrain and orange blossom.

Still life with peppers by Charles Patterson (1953) – Collection of Michael T. Ricker

Conceived as an invisible organic architecture, Panorama is overflowing with galbanum pyrazine that Perfumer Clément Gavarry used as a pillar of the wasabi accord, cleverly steering clear of the 1970s green fragrance cliché and delivering not only a tremendously expansive performance, but also the uplifting olfactive landscape of a luxurious rainforest. Olfactive Studio Panorama was ahead of its time anticipating the green pepper crispness of Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite, or again L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Potager collection featuring notes of fennel, cauliflower and beetroot.

Official notes for Olfactive Studio Panorama include Wasabi Accord, Fig Leaf Accord, Bamboo Leaf Accord, Bergamot, Lemon, Galbanum, Cardamom, Violet Leaf, Fresh Cut Grass Accord, Myrrh Absolute, Fir Balsam, Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musks, Labdanum

This review is based on a bottle of Panorama very kindly supplied by Céline Verleure of Olfactive Studio. My opinions are my own.

Ermano Picco, Editor and Perfume Expert

Olfactive Studio creative director Céline Verleure and Ermano at Esxence 2022 (photo edit Ermano)

Céline Verleure was featured in our Creative Directors in Perfumery series in 2013

Olfactive Studio Panorama was one of Michelyn’s top 10 fragrances of 2015 and is a CaFleureBon Best of Scent

Check out Olfactive Studio Panorama review written by Fragrance Foundation award winning former ÇaFleureBon editor Alex Musgrave (a.k.a. The Silver Fox)

Olfactive Studio Panorama by Roberto Greco

Thanks to the generosity of Céline Verleure, we have a  100 ml bottle of Panorama for one registered reader in the EU or USA. To be eligible please leave a comment with what sparked your interest  about Ermano’s article, where you live and if you have a favorite Olfactive Studio fragrance. Draw closes 9/16/2022

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