For as long as ÇaFleureBon has been giving end of year Best Fragrance awards (2010), (2011), (2012), (2013), (2014), (2015), (2016) (2017), (2018) and (2019) there was always the question, “was this a good year for perfume”? Can we even judge Best Fragrances in 2020 when the pandemic shut down all the major trade events including Esxence, Pitti Fragranze and TFWA in Cannes, where many on the ÇaFleureBon team discovered perfumes from new companies, from established companies large and small, were able to chat one on one with perfumers and hug our friends-in-fragrance. We usually smell 500+ fragrances every year. In 2020 we both spent nearly five months in strict lockdown as well as sheltered in place. This year it was at least half that amount. Many companies decided to hold off on releases, many retailers and suppliers were on lockdown. Most of us at ÇaFleureBon experienced personal and professional hardships which is why, unlike past years, there are no “ÇaFleureBon Worst Ofs” this year, as the worst of 2020 was the year itself. Somehow, we still smelled a lot of perfume; either samples were sent to us or we purchased them ourselves. This year’s ÇaFleureBon Best Fragrances of 2020 will be a four-day event. Tomorrow Ermano and I will announce our respective top ten ÇaFleureBon Best Fragrances of 2020, followed by Ida’s and Despina’s top ten, Lauryn’s and dana’s and closing with Nicoleta’s and Elena’s ÇaFleureBon best fragrances. There will be draws aplenty. –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief
ÇaFleureBon BEST TRENDS: FEEL GOOD FRAGRANCES
During 2020, fragrances that made us feel good and smell great were essential to our well-being. “Feel good perfumes”, might not be as complex as more experimental fragrances, but I admire the courage of crafting a new perfume in the middle of a pandemic. This is especially true for small independent houses who don’t have the resources that are available to large corporations. We all succeeded together and despite our differences, we are one community. That’s a trend that I hope is is going to continue for many years. –Michelyn
photo by Roberto Greco
Olfactory speaking, this “feel good” mood has brought back sweet, honeyed florals like mimosa (Perris Montecarlo Mimosa Tanneron and Masque Milano Ray-flection are two exquisite examples of this), broom, rose, violet (a luminous embodiment of this is surely Hiram Green Vivacious) and cherry blossom (how to forget the poetic Sakura Imperial by Lucien Ferrero?), but also white florals like jasmine (Le Galion Jasmin, Serge Lutens Fils de Joie and Amouage Ashore just to name a few) and ylang ylang (Antonio Alessandria’s Rusty Vibes created to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of ÇaFleureBon). Healing plants like lavender, mint and chamomile as well made a comeback especially in their softer, more floral and delicate hues rather than the herbal, corroborating side. Speaking about citrus, this was the year of the happiest and most vibrant of them all.
Special mention goes to Monsieur Ellena who brought us back to Italy and dolce vita with Laboratorio Olfattivo Mandarino. Michelyn wears it each morning.
photo courtesy of Anatole Lebreton
Vanilla has always been important in perfume and this comforting and precious spice shined in full glory in 2020. A few examples are Perris Montecarlo Vanille de Tahiti, Anatole Lebreton Fleur Cachée, and recently Maison Tahité which explores the many facets of vanilla. –Michelyn and Ermano
ÇaFleureBon HARDEST WORKING PERSONS IN PERFUME: DAWN SPENCER HURWITZ AND SARAH McCARTNEY
photo courtesy of Dawn©
I might as well give this award to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes and Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays every year. Dawn is always prolific, and used this time of “isolation” and disconnection to connect; she created some of her best work to date, including BIWA that she composed in honor of our beloved Robert Herrmann, who gave her a list of ingredients before he passed (you will see her perfumes on many a ÇaFleureBon best fragrances of 2020 list over the next few days). Dawn also hosts weekly Instalive sessions, where viewers learn how to create accords, offer suggestions and all the while, Dawn is homeschooling her four-year-old son, packing orders and dreaming of new scents. In many ways Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is the embodiment of one of her most coveted fragrances –The Scent of Hope. That is the spirit of 2020. Turning a bad year into a blessing. –Michelyn
Sarah McCartney of 4160Tuesdays courtesy Sarah
Everybody had to work harder to survive this year, especially independent perfumers, so my award goes to everybody who started a new enterprise or even started a new project. Sarah McCartney launched 18 new fragrances for 4160Tuesdays, held zoom yoga sessions, and along with Contributor Sam Scriven aka Iscentyou aday.com, is writing a book. Ermano just discovered Astrid Weinstock of Astrid Perfume launched about 50 new fragrances. –Ermano and Michelyn
RESTORING VINTAGE PERFUMES
Chapeau to Coty, not the US Company but the French Association François Coty “La Cité des Parfums” that oversees the Prix François Coty. In particular kudos to Veronique Coty for the great commitment to the preservation of the family heritage and the Art of Perfumery, for 2020 saw the restoration of three glorious perfumes from this legendary house. A limited-edition box containing La Rose Jacqueminot (1904), L’Origan (1905) and Jasmin de Corse (1906) restored in collaboration with Firmenich perfumer Daphne Bugey was released in 300 pieces. -Ermano
photo courtesy of Masque Milano
ÇaFleureBon BEST NICHE HOUSE AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR: MASQUE MILANO/ Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi
Masque Milano had a great year, celebrating their 10th anniversary and releasing an entire new line dedicated to women, crafted through collaborations with perfumeuses only. The result is the white and gold dressed “Le donne di Masque” which bottles three different characters; the silky musky floral Dolceacqua (Delphine Thierry), the sensual floriental Petra (Cécile Zarokian) and the coquettish floral-gourmand Madeleine (Fanny Bal). In addition, Ray-Flection by Alex Lee debuted; literally a ray of sunshine… honey and mimosa for the soul. Both Alessandro and Riccardo held online Instalives and “smell alongs” through Google Meets that engaged the fragrance community-Ermano and Michelyn
Perfumer Shawn Maher
ÇaFleureBon BEST INDIE HOUSE and PERFUMER: SHAWN MAHER/CHATILLON LUX/MAHER OLFACTIVE
St. Louis, Missouri based Shawn Maher had one of the best years of his career for both his brands Chatillon Lux and Maher Olfactive. With one exception, Madame Chouteau Extrait de Parfum for American Perfumer, all his perfumes were launched during the pandemic.
MAHER OLFACTIVE : April – Crystal Moon Eau de Parfum, July – Treachery Extrait de Parfum, December – Orris Forest Eau de Parfum/Tempo Rubato Extrait de Parfum
CHATILLON LUX : June – La Petite Prairie Eau de Toilette, November – Confluence Eau de Toilette
Each of Shawn Maher’s fragrances are examples of independent perfumery as olfactive storytelling and in 2020 he demonstrated his willingness to expand his horizons and experiment with new raw materials. Each of his perfumes embody the American spirit of exploration… even when it’s your native home town (you will be seeing Shawn’s perfumes on Top Ten Lists).-Michelyn
photo courtesy Laurie Stern
ÇaFleureBon BEST NATURAL PERFUME HOUSE and PERFUMER: LAURIE STERN of VELVET & SWEET PEA’S PURRFUMERY and TANJA BOCHNIG of APRIL AROMATICS.
El Cerrito, California based Laurie Stern has been a perfumer and animal conservationist since 2000. It all came together in 2020 when she created the all-natural (no isolates, we/re talking pure ylang-ylang based Luminous Lemurs. Fifty percent of the cost was donated to CentreValBio, a not-for-profit organization that supports these endangered mammals. Creating one of the best perfumes of her career Laurie also stayed true to her personal passion of helping communities (people and animals). Lemurs’ natural habitat is Madagascar. Laurie has studied these unique primates and used many indigenous materials from that magical island, sparing no cost, nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. Lemurs like a lot humans, use scent to attract a mate; both lemurs and perfumistas use scent on the wrist. As someone who has embraced natural perfumery since 2007, trust me when I say that to create a fruit accord from all-natural ingredients is akin to Matisse painting flowers from his imagination.-Michelyn
Hiram Green courtesy of Hiram
Honorable Mention to Hiram Green, whose Vivacious was one of the best violet perfume I have smelt in many years… natural or otherwise – Michelyn
Tanja Bochnig photo Pavel Becker
And the award goes to Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics for releasing the stunning Lotus Rising. As a special gift to brighten up our spirits, perfumer Tanja Bochnig used a vintage Pink Lotus absolute and a vintage Blue Lotus absolute both from her past trips to India to release a refined, mellow and textured floral bouquet. I cannot remember these rare and tough to work with materials composed in such uplifting and unique way. –Ermano
ÇaFleureBon BEST PERFUMER: RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX AND ANTONIO GARDONI OF BOGUE PROFUMO
For Porter sa peau, created for photographer Roberto Greco, Rodrigo Flores-Roux proved once again that he’s the magician of florals and a great master perfumer that bridges tradition and modernity.–Ermano
Perfumer Antonio Gardoni has his own aesthetic, yet is open to creative collaborations. This year BOGUE PROFUMO OOOH! For ÇaFleureBon, Berceuse Allegreto 7.2 as well as Doleur 2 for Freddie Albrighton had very different visions. All three are brilliant examples of a great perfumer’s unique signature, even when interpreting others’ ideas. -Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon BEST FRAGRANCES OF THE YEAR: ROBERTO GRECO PORTER SA PEAU AND ATELIER DES ORS ROUGE SARAY
Roberto Greco Porter sa peau conveys by its very name the deep, intimate aesthetics of this project; matching the stunning visual research Roberto Greco pursued over the past three years about skin and its interplay with light. As traces of classics from Antonio Canova to Sarah Moon lie underneath the overexposed, misty photography series, the same you can sense the diaphanous erotic tension of aldehydic glories from Worth Je Reviens to Dior Dune inhaling Porter Sa Peau. And yet the creative collaboration between Mr. Greco and Rodrigo Flores-Roux rewrites the codes of effortless sensuality. –Ermano and Michelyn
photo by Gail Gross ©
2020 was also a year of travel themed perfumes and none was more suggestive than Atelier des Ors Rouge Saray. Evoking the deserts of the Middle East, as caravans laden with delectable dates, sensual spices and fresh plums of Petra carried precious aromatics, I was transported to another time, at a time when I needed to be anywhere but in lock down. One of the best gourmands I have experienced and decidedly different than anything else I smelled this year. –Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon BEST BOTTLE VALENTINO VOCE VIVA
For once on the shelves this year I was really pleased to see the appearance of a flacon that perfectly embodies the classic elegance of a brand refreshed by a few, flawless details: Valentino Voce Viva. –Ermano
ÇaFleureBon BEST LIMITED EDITION GUERLAIN FOL AROMEAND ESTEE LAUDER BEAUTIFUL ABSOLU
Some perfumistas might have killed for a bottle of Guerlain Fol Arome that was reissued this year by inhouse perfumer Thierry Wasser who reworked the original formula Jacques Guerlain created in 1912 as a more mysterious brother to the famous L’Heure Bleue with which it also shares the “Coeur enversé” iconic bottle. Only 964 pieces were made available.
If it wasn’t for my cousin, I would never have tried Estee Lauder Beautiful Absolu. He knows I do “something with perfume” and ordered it from MACY’s as a surprise. I remember Beautiful from the 1980s, a A BIG TUBEROSE and one I remember not liking. Our rising star of 2019, Mackenzie Reilley dialed down the tuberose and amped up the fresh green magnolia, retaining the DNA of the original, but more modern to my nose. I have been wearing it a lot to my surprise. The box is a collector’s piece and uses the art of Andy Warhol.-Michelyn
courtesy of @scent_festival
ÇaFleureBon BEST FRAGRANCE EVENT: SCENT FESTIVAL
No live fragrant events took place in 2020, at least in person. And yet this turned into a great opportunity for t online panels and virtual events. Our pick as the best fragrance event so goes to Digital Scent Festival, the digital-native deep dive created by Yosh Han in collaboration with Aroma Village that originally was supposed to run six weeks, but kept going… from April 14th 2020- August 27th 2020. 60 perfumers presented and SCENT FESTIVAL was one of the first groups to actively promote African American perfumers and support diversity. –Ermano and Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: L’OCCITANE VERVEINE MANDARIN
Newly released as a special edition for the winter holidays Verveine Mandarin, a beautiful take on their iconic Verveine is not only high quality, beautiful and festive, but also affordable. –Ermano
Angelos Balamis
ÇAFLEUREBON RISING STAR: ANGELOS BALAMIS OF ANGELOS CREATIONS OLFACTIVES AND JEROME DI MARINO of TAKASAGO
Angelos Balamis of Angelos Créations Olfactives: Editor dana sandu introduced our readers to the young Thessaloniki perfumer in her review of Eau de Vertu. He was delighted so he sent some of us samples in the Fall. His story is one of raw talent and determination. In 2014, Aggelos went to Paris for three months and studied perfumery with emphasis on vintage techniques and raw materials. With nine fragrances in his line, and an innate understanding of creating perfumes that don’t smell like any others, he’s one to watch.
Jérôme Di Marino via cosmeticbusiness
A young perfumer at Takasago who I never heard of before, Jérôme Di Marino. Mentored by Françis Kurkdjian, he has begun to compile impressive creations striding between commercial and niche with perfumes for Burberry, Carven and Elie Saab, but also for Molton Brown, Masaki Matsushima and Une Nuit Nomade. I just happened to smell his commercial fragrances only, but I wouldn’t be surprised to see Di Marino’s creations in the next years appear as the nose for top notch exclusive brands or perhaps winning a FiFi.-Ermano
photo courtesy of Der Duft
ÇaFleureBon BEST DISCOVERY: DER DUFT
Photographer film-maker and perfumer Anselm Skogstad launched his line of four fragrances: Pride, Bubble, Grasse, Monopteros and Cinematic during a global pandemic. Der Duft translated from the German means “The Scent” and each scent is a story, sometimes created in cooperation with other perfumers that he respects.: “I wanted to create a perfume house with a brand name that conveys a simple message and intention to anyone interested in scents.” And Anselm did.-Michelyn
credits Silvana Editore
ÇaFleureBon BEST FRAGRANCE BOOK: HANDBOOK OF GREAT ITALIAN PERFUMERY
Worth a mention is the “Handbook of Great Italian Perfumery – Fifty years of exceptional scents” by Marika Vecchiattini published by Silvana Editore. The book covers a very personal, large selection of fragrances from Italian brands spanning from the late ‘70s to nowadays, as seen through the experience and funny storytelling of the author. –Ermano
ÇaFleureBon BEST COLLABORATION : DIS_CONNECT
Disconnection is something we all experienced this year, but way before the pandemic, Francesca Gotti, Francesco Romero and Omer Ipekci started the artistic project DIS-CONNECT to express this status through design, image and perfume. Unpredictably it turned out to be such a strong experience that can be sensed in a limited-edition photo-book and a brutalist eco-friendly box, plus three perfumes, 01-Decay, 02-Concrete, 03-Paradox. No doubt the award goes for this reason to DIS-CONNECT. –Ermano
I recuse myself from the four CaFleureBon 10th anniversary collaborations. It’s the right thing to do-Michelyn
Marion Cotillard for Chanel No. 5 via Chanel
ÇaFleureBon BEST AD: CHANEL and SAMSUNG ECO BUBBLE FRESH LAUNDERED
Chanel made a huge comeback this year to its beauty codes hiring the ever-charming, award-winning Marion Cotillard to celebrate the 100 years of the most iconic fragrance ever, No. 5 with a stellar advertising campaign, the best of the last 10 years. From Paris, we’re shot up to a dreamy moon covered in sparkles where we can’t help but dance, love and being happy, it doesn’t matter if it’s for a while or forever. Chapeau!-Ermano
Courtesy of Samsung©
In a spoof of the glam celebs that front designer brands along comes Gold Medalist British gymnast Matt Whitlock. In the series of ads he is often half-naked, as he gets sexy with a Samsung washing machine while holding up a bottle of Fresh Laundered (composed by Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays) -Pour Homme Pour Elle, Pour Laundry.-Michelyn
credits CHANEL
ÇaFleureBon BEST DESIGNER FRAGRANCE: CHANEL LE LION
CHANEL Le Lion is a classy amber showcasing labdanum and vanilla and is a tribute to Coco’s astrological sign, Leo . Leos are well-known for their ambition and determination. –Ermano and Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon BEST PERFUME YOU WANT TO DRINK OR EAT: MASQUE MILANO AND A WHIFF OF WAFFLE CONE
Who wouldn’t love sitting in a Belle Epoque cafeteria in Paris sipping coffee and having a mouthwatering Mont Blanc with a fluffy cloud of crème fraiche? You can definitely get all of this by copiously spraying Masque Milano Madeleine. –Ermano
Imaginary Authors A whiff of Waffle Cone: Growing up in Brooklyn, I remember eating vanilla ice cream cones on the boardwalk of Coney Island. Josh Meyers’ A whiff of waffle Cone was truly an uncomplicated joy that brought me sweet memories of simpler times. –Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon BEST FLANKER: CARTIER LA PANTHERE PARFUM
Mathilde Laurent did it again! Cartier La Panthère Parfum is a gorgeous, sexier and more sumptuous embodiment of the original fruity chypre showing once more even a flanker can be done brilliantly. –Ermano and Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon BEST FRAGRANCE NAMES: TREACHERY AND LUMINOUS LEMURS
I must admit I didn’t smell the perfume, but Velvet & Sweet Peas Purrfumery Luminous Lemurs really amazed me for its name. Now I crave to smell it!-Ermano
Without a doubt. Shawn Meher of Maher Olfactive’s Treachery…for 2020 I can think of no better name-Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon MVP (MOST VALUABLE PERFUME PEOPLE): INDEPENDENT PERFUMERS HELPING TO KEEP US SAFE: This year it is the Most Valuable Perfume People. At the start at the Pandemic, there was a shortage of hand sanitizers. It was an immediate grass roots response; Former Sr. Contributor Marianne Butler kept our readers informed by highlighting both American Independents (here) European independents (here) Ermano and Michelyn
Honorable mention to artist Massimo Alfaioli whose whimsical and lyrical illustrations brightened a dismal year. -Michelyn
via Instagram@voyagesimaginairesparfums
ÇaFleureBon BEST BUZZ: VOYAGES IMAGINAIRES PARFUMS AND OLYMPIC ORCHIDS PERFUMES NIGHT FLYER
Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal launching their perfume house Voyages Imaginaires Parfums after selling (ex Annick) Goutal Paris. We are so curious to smell them –Ermano and Michelyn
Dr. Ellen Covey kept the formula to her award winning perfume, now known as Nigh Flyer. The Original is now flying high -Michelyn
ÇaFleureBon BEST FRAGRANCE YOU NEVER HEARD OF: RICARDO RAMOS PERFUMES DE AUTOR MANGOES KHUS
Ricardo Ramos is a perfumer and creative director based in Grenada, located in Andalusia Spain, who I first learned about through former Sr. Contributor Marianne Butler when she wrote The Three You should be Wearing. A perfumista friend mailed me a package of some of his more recent work and Mangoes Khus was the standout. Imagine Vetiver (khus) intertwining the fruity inner flesh of a mango. His co perfumer is Jorge Lee, who you may remember from Nishane. His website is here
Esxence 2018: Photo Ermano
ÇaFleureBon HALL OF FAME: OLIVIER DURBANO, NEIL MORRIS AND SARAH HOROWITZ-THRAN
My Hall of Fame goes to Olivier Durbano who silently yet steadily working in the last 16 years grew his Parfums de Pierres Poèmes , staying true to his values both in spirits and aesthetics. He’s been so brave this year also to crown this milestone launching his 16th perfume ARAM dedicated to Syria and its stones bathed in a breathtaking light, an inspiration coming from Olivier’s memories of his first trips where he used to travel in search of precious gems for his unique jewelry.-Ermano
Neil Morris of Neil Morris fragrances is the Godfather of American Perfumery and Sarah Horowitz-Thran is the goddess/Godmother. Both began their fragrance careers in the Boston area. Neil is a perfumer of 25 years years and has mentored more fledgling perfumers than there is room for me to name. He composes fragrances under his own brand and for other houses worldwide. In addition to his core line there is the Vault which contain some of his most sought-after perfumes. Neil Morris is known for his bespoke fragrances, which capture the personal history of a client and their happy memories… and bottle it. Sarah Horowitz-Thran began her career in 1989 in Boston, and moved her business in California in 1994. Sarah designed fragrances for brands including kai, IF and Bronzed for Ron Robinson, all of the limited-edition Urban Decay fragrances (go, sin, pistol, and most recently go Naked) and opened a filling house that caters to small perfumers (starting with 150 bottles per fragrance). In March 2020 at the beginning of the shutdown, Sarah Horowitz Thran was one of the first to create hand sanitizers, and continues to donate a portion to hospitals and nursing homes –Michelyn
What did you think of Ermano’s and Michelyn’s ÇaFleureBon Best Fragrances of 2020?
Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Neil Morris we are offering one 30 ml bottle for one registered reader worldwide of any fragrance from the Vault collection (be sure to register or your comment will not count), be sure to leave the one you would like to win and where you live in your comment.
Sarah Horowitz-Thran is offering any perfume from her Sarah Horowitz Parfums line in a special 50 ml size to one registered reader in the USA only. Please leave which one you would like to win in your comment. Draw closes December 29, 2020
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