BDK Parfums 312 Saint-Honoré by J©
Rue Saint-Honoré has always been a street synonymous with luxury, a home for fashion and perfume in Paris. In 1959, BDK Parfums founder, David Benedek’s, grandparents opened a perfume boutique on the corner of Rue Royale and Rue Saint-Honoré, expanding their already successful perfumery business, bringing together the likes of Jean Patou, Dior and Worth diffusing them through Paris and further a field. It was here he through his grandparents and father he found his love for fragrance. Bouquet de Hongrie is a tribute to his grandmother; she was Romanian but spoke Hungarian and was really the one who taught him the culture of perfume.
David Benedek, BDK Parfums’s founder and perfumer Alexandra Carlin.
I can sense the deep appreciation for classic perfumery in many of the BDK Parfums I’ve had the pleasure of smelling. Let’s take Rouge Smoking as an example. It beautifully combines elements reminiscent of classic Guerlain fragrances, like the delightful powdery, more happy heliotrope from Après L’Ondée and the creamy vanilla amber from Shalimar, without the citrus notes, all done with a modern twist. Perfumer Alexandra Carlin truly captures the essence of classic perfumery in 312 Saint-Honoré, bringing it into the present day. Not only that, but she also takes us on a fragrant journey to BDK Parfums’ new boutique, located just a stone’s throw away from David Benedek’s grandparents’ own perfumery. It’s a wonderful continuation of the tradition of introducing new perfumes to Paris and all the travellers who visit the city.
BDK Parfums 312 Saint-Honoré boutique courtesy of the brand.
A spray or three invites you into the world of BDK Parfums 312 Saint-Honoré, as a burst of vibrant pink peppers and intense ambers dances like dazzling lights catching your eye through crystal-clear glass. As you open the door to this perfumery, a familiar aroma of woody ambers flows out and envelops you in a rush of excitement, drawing you deeper into its inner chamber. If you’ve had the pleasure of visiting the new store at 312 Rue Saint-Honoré or seen photos of its elegant minimalist interior, you get a sense of its expanse, smoothness and the textures of its design from the perfume created by Alexandra Carlin, her third for BDK Parfums. The materials here are cleverly chosen to replicate the feel of the building, the polished concrete, smooth stone walls and sleek woods; a minimal elegance and as the perfume evolves these elements are revealed.
BDK Parfums 312 Saint-Honoré boutique courtesy of the brand.
After its initial intense opening, 312 Saint-Honoré starts feeling airy, becoming a more sleek, minimalist perfume, while still carrying a vertical thrust of woody ambers, drawing your eyes up to the selves where the bottles are held. It has a sense of spaciousness as a delicate floral feel takes hold with peppery spices lending a musky earthy greenness enchanting your senses. Sparkling pink pepper notes continue to shimmer, like small lights glistening off the flacons on shelves. As the scent unfolds it begins to weaves its carnal magic. I always feel overwhelmed with choice when perfume shopping and this is reflected with an intense moment or two as ambroxan and woody ambers intensify, before a warm and inviting orange blossom blooms, unfurling and embracing you, as if you have found the one you’re looking for. Its enhanced with a creamy smooth abstract combination of powdery iris and tonka bean, here in a more molecular form, creating a cool texture that evokes the mineralic feel of stone, while picking out other material textures in the process. Its smooth, yet delicately powdery, conjuring these texture in a clever way, while angelicas musky and slightly nutty facets, enhance it further, infusing a soft sensuality into the next phase of 312 Saint-Honoré.
312 Saint-Honoré by BDK Parfums courtesy of the brand
That nod to traditional French perfumery is revealed here as BDK Parfums 312 Saint-Honoré gives us classic orange blossom perfume done in a contemporary way, with what is to me a molecular take the deliciously carnal animalis base, giving it cosy abstract purring rich warmth of furs, with Thai oud and orange blossom enhancing its luxurious richness further covering you in soft white florals. The Thai oud lends a soft, skin-like quality; it’s like a Chonburi style oud, those with a creamy sandalwood-like essence and sour tropical fruitiness, with aged blonde woods. 312 Saint-Honoré evokes a sense of opulent warmth, draped in these furs with iris giving a powdery soft, musky allure. Envision the sensation of being enveloped in velvety, never-ending furs, while the gentle murmurs of delicate flesh create an irresistible allure that commands the attention of all those around you, in that nonchalant cool Parisian way. 312 Saint-Honoré feels quiet soft and intimate to wear; yet there’s some powerful woody ambers at work luring people closer. The velvety woody ambers, along with Ambroxan, also provide a subtle mineralic shimmer, reflecting the stone and flooring of the perfumery.
I used to haunt Rue Saint-Honoré, visiting Colette when it was still open, hoping some of the cool would rub off on me. 312 Saint-Honoré exudes a quintessentially Parisian charm I experienced living in Paris, blending bold confidence with a hint of seductive sensuality. It effortlessly commands attention with its understated elegance, while perfectly encapsulating the essence of the boutique through its meticulously curated materials. Alexandra Carlin’s masterful touch seamlessly weaves a captivating fragrance, creating a truly stunning wearable work of art.
Notes: Pink peppercorn extract from Brazil, Pink peppercorn leaf, Angelica roots from France, Orange blossom, Tonka bean, Iris, Ambroxan, Ambery musk, Oud wood from Thailand.
Disclosure: BDK Parfums 312 Saint-Honoré was sent to J, his thoughts and nose are his own.
-Senior Contributor J Wearescentient, artist & olfactive writer
BDK Parfums 312 Saint-Honoré by J©
Thanks to BDK Parfums, we have a 100 ml of 312 Saint-Honoré for one registered reader in US, UK and EU. You must be registered or your comment will not count to be eligible, please leave a comment on what sparked your interest about J’s, review and where you live? What’s your favourite BDK Parfums? Draw closes 3 /6/24
Enjoy Karl’s piece on Vanille Leather, Olya’s review on BDK Parfums Gris Charnel. Please read Emmanuelle Varron’s review of Villa Neroli here and BDK Parfums Ambre Saffrano here.
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