bdk Parfums Gris Charnel Review (Mathilde Bijaoui) +Parisian Escape Draw

April 7, 2021April 18, 2021

Olya Bar with bdk Parfums Gris Charnel

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel feels like a breathlessly whispered invitation to indulge in something lustful. If you have ever visited Paris or planning to do so in the future, you have to experience the magic of Quai Saint–Bernard, near the Jardin des Plantes, an inspiration behind Gris Charnel. Quai Saint- Bernard has a rich history. including that at one time it was known as the “Capitol of French Wine” and a bustling river port.

Mathilde Bijaoui courtesy of the perfumer

As an admirer of perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui’s of MANE work for quite some time, it is interesting that her father’s fascination with gastronomy plays an important role in her perfumery. The world of the senses and culinary nuances are beautifully woven together in many of her compositions.

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel figs and a steaming cup of tea, photo by Olya

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel opens with succulent fig. Figs are often associated with sex and fertility, but despite its fruitlike appearances it is not a fruit at all, but inverted flowers. That’s what gives the inside of a fig its signature striated look, each small, fleshy thread in the fig is a tiny flower, carrying a seed. The fig is served with a steaming cup of black tea and a pinch of cardamom (queen of spices), smoky and full of tannins. The tea accord grounds the ripeness of figs; the heart reveals an earthy iris absolute assuming its full powdery glory. The addition of bourbon vetiver adds a spicy and slightly leathery facet to the structure, with hints of smoky hazelnut and slight bitterness; resting on the bed of velvety sandalwood. I find the latter to be one of the main pillars of this composition, taming the candied fig and lending a solid woodsy foundation to the fragrance.

Photo of Olya by Olya

bdk Parfums Gris Charnel is more than olfactory indulgence. It’s both retro and modern, transporting you to the heart of the Quai Saint–Bernard dance floor, a place of escape for many Parisians. They leave the mundane routines of every day life behind and enter into the world of sexual attraction, assertive flirting and lascivious embraces, which often end with stolen hearts forever etched with memories.

Notes: Fig, Black Tea, Cardamom; Iris Absolute, Bourbon Vetiver; Sandalwood, Tonka Bean.

Disclaimer: I would like to thank Kintessance for my bottle of Gris Charnel. The opinions are my own.

–Olya Bar, Guest Contributor

Photo by Olya

Thanks to the generosity of Kintessance, the USA distributor, we have a draw for a 100ml tester bottle of bdk Parfums Gris Charnel for one registered reader in the USA. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Olya’s review and if you have a favorite fragrance from this brand. Draw closes 4/10/2021

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