Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat, photo Aedes de Venustas©
If you are the indelible, wonderful perfume New York boutique Aedes de Venustas, what better way to celebrate one’s 27th anniversary than with an ebullient fragrance of such vitality that it practically pops from its bottle like an enthusiastic genii? Aedes de Venustas, created by Firminich perfumer Ilias Ermendis along with Aedes de Venustas founders Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner, is a fragrance of such urbane vitality, that I half expect it to invite me to play squash with it at 6am.
Ermenidis draws on his Greek heritage to bring to life the potent, turpenic aroma of the fresh-cut kumquat that grows prolifically on the island of Corfu. His creation is sophisticated, layered and brimming with citrus and sea spray. It’s like a boat trip to Paleokastritsa with every spritz.
Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner, photo courtesy of the brand
Kumquat is an unusual and sophisticated choice as the centerpiece of a fragrance. The fruit originated in China but was introduced to Corfu in 1846 by English botanist Sidney Merlin, who also grew oranges on his estate in Dassia. Today, Northern Corfu is a leading producer of kumquats, particularly in the form of the island’s trademark liqueur. “We wanted to create an unusual, complex citrus, with the mood of Aedes Perfumery in mind. Nothing sweet, simple or cologne-like but a more complex creation,” explains Aedes co-founder Karl Bradl.
To me, kumquat smells like a worldly orange who has knocked back a few chartreuses in a hotel bar somewhere on the Med. It is bitter and sweet simultaneously, with a punchy, herbal rindiness that mixes well with savoury and sweet notes. Erminidis assigns this feisty fruit an entourage of three vibrant citruses – mandarin, tangerine, and bergamot – that harmonize like a chorus throughout the composition, adding overlapping layers of sharp-sweet fruit. On first spray, that kumquat is sophisticated and realistic: heady, acerbic, smelling of citrus rind and faraway.
Ilias Ermenidis, photo via Fragrance Foundation
Kumquat’s aromatic, exotic character makes it a perfect partner for the anisic, herbaceous lavender and leafy vetiver that arrive later. As they temper the brightness of all that citrus, the perfume turns a bit darker and more vegetal. But the big surprise for me in Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat is the ambroxan, a note I often find troublesome. Here, Ermenidis coaxes out the aroma chemical’s saltier facets and the effect is transportive, summoning the Ionian, sea water licking and lapping at the shoreline like cats. As Corfu Kumquat comes out to play, it is all kumquat fruit, bergamot and sweet, drippy mandarin. There’s a puckish tang of green rhubarb that smells a bit like underripe tomato, partnered with green apple. These green fruit notes accentuate kumquat’s tart quality and give the fragrance bounce and freshness.
Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat, photo courtesy of the brand
As Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat settles into my skin, the musks come forward along with some soapy neroli blossom, and the minty, resinous smell of olibanum wafts gently through the center, adding a bit of opacity and exoticism. Cedar starts out abruptly, then recedes enough to let the citruses stay in the limelight. Combined with the musk and ambroxan, the woods lend the composition a slightly masculine edge, suave and refined. Later that night, I note a trail of dry citrus and salt as I may my way to bed. Its linger leaves me longing for the whoosh and hush of the sea.
Notes: Kumquat, Calabrian bergamot, tangerine, mandarin, Alaskan cedar, ginger, ambrox, olibanum resin, lavender, granny smith apple, neroli, Haitian vetiver, rhubarb, captive musks, tonka.
Disclaimer: bottle of Corfu Kumquat generously given to me by Aedes de Venustas. My opinions, as always, are my own.
Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat, photo courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the largess of Aedes de Venustas, we have three samples of Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat for one registered reader in the U.S. only. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what strikes you about Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat based on Lauryn’s review, whether you have a favourite Aedes de Venustas fragrance Draw closes 4/6/2022.
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