10 Best Perfumes of 2022 Rachel Watson and Hernando Courtright
Now that you have heard from Ermano and me, (our10 Best Perfumes of 2022 ) and (The Best Fragrances of 2022 here), Ida and Lauryn, Emmanuelle and Nicoleta, Karl and Michael we continue our 10 Ten Best Perfumes of 2022 overviews today with Sr. Contributors Hernando Courtright and Rachel Watson and while they both live in the tri-state area (New York, Connecticut, New Jersey), there isn’t a single overlap in their 10 Best Perfumes of 2022. Now it’s time to reveal their respective selections–Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Sr. Contributor Rachel Watson’s 10 Best Perfumes of 2022
What was most surprising to me as I compiled my list of favorite fragrances from 2022 is the fact that so many of my selections were from brands I had not tried or purchased bottles from until this year. This can only be confirmation that despite the thousands of new releases, there are still so many worthwhile scents to be created and explored. I present my 10 Best Perfumes of 2022 (in alphabetical order)-Rachel Watson, Sr. Contributor:
Anatole Lebreton Brioche (Anatole Lebreton): I hesitated to include this one since it was released as a limited edition and promptly sold out around the world but, it is too good to pass over. Honestly, bread is not what comes to my mind when wearing this, despite the name, there is not a very pronounced grain note. Brioche is more powdery with soft fruity notes that give it the feel of mimosa flowers. Overall, Brioche is a perfect comfort scent just like how a fresh loaf of bread or pastry baking in your kitchen gives the entire house a certain coziness. I hear from Mr. Lebreton that it may come back in 2023 – keep your eyes peeled!
Angelos Creations Olfactives Yloud-Yloud (Angelos Balamis) Just when you think there is nothing more that can be done with oud to make it interesting, Angelos Balamis comes out with his own take on this ubiquitous note to prove us wrong. Yes, rose and oud is the traditional Arabic combination but, what happens when rose is replaced with some of the biggest, most indolic white florals? You have Yloud-Yloud, of course! Dense, chewy, barnyard oud balanced by creamy ylang-ylang, jasmine, orris and tonka – this is no shy wallflower however, it is also very well behaved for such lusciousness. Yloud-Yloud is another Angelos masterpiece.
Areej Le Dore Civet de Nuit (Russian Adam and Sultan Pasha): I love when great perfumers collaborate on a scent, and could you get any better than with these two? The kings of oud and animalic fragrances come together to create one of the best retro-vintage scents I have smelled. The comparisons to Bal à Versailles parfum by Jean Desprez (1962) are spot on; Civet de Nuit is a sexy, animalic beast. However, after that initial blast, the real mastery shines through with the exquisite use of jasmine, tobacco, Mysore sandalwood, olibanum and labdanum. I cannot do any more justice to this scent than the mesmerizing review by Ida so, I urge you to click the link and then hurry to get a bottle before it is, as they say, history.
Azman Killer Vavoom (Miguel Matos) from AZMAN, an independent house that immediately caught my attention, not just because it is based in the UAE but because the founder and creative director, Husen Baba, draws upon his life of world travel and mixed heritages to create “moments” in scent. I can definitely relate to the multi-culturalism found in the UAE and the desire of this country to embrace history and culture while aiming to achieve greatness beyond what the world has seen anywhere else. Baba has clearly experienced this himself and takes it to heart in his creations. I chose Killer Vavoom as my favorite of the initial releases as it combines classic musky-leathery notes with newer gourmands to create the best of both worlds. I adore the buttery suede mixed with chocolate and stewed fruits – there is something so sexy about this one!
10 Best Perfumes of 2022
Der Duft Canvas (Freddie Albrighton): I love when a fragrance really surprises you. Freddie Albrighton, who is a tattoo artist as well as perfumer, used ink and painted canvas as the inspiration for Der Duft’s latest release, Canvas. It is the perfect description for a scent that includes such a variety of notes ranging from rhubarb and licorice to honey, seaweed and geranium. What would the artist create for this “painting”? I see a very dark still life, a bowl of fruit illuminated by a single candlestick, the smell of the burning beeswax mingles with a more intense smoky fire somewhere out of frame. Is that hookah tobacco I smell? Perhaps the setting is an Arabian tent by the gulf. Spicy rose and geranium are the perfect accompaniment to this caravan of scents. What will Der Duft Canvas reveal to you?
Floratropia Le Feu (Delphine Thierry): All-natural scents have always been available but, it seems that 2022 is the year where they have truly bloomed. Perhaps the common link is perfumer, Delphine Thierry, who signed the first releases from both Floratropia and from, Hima Jomo (see my next choice). Clearly Ms. Thierry has become the go-to perfumer when you want to explore naturals at their best. Le Feu, as I mentioned in my review, is a surprising overdose of white florals mixed smoked amber vanilla creating a spiced milky fragrance as comforting as a warm cup of chai. If the cold winter months are getting you down, there is nothing better than a little fire.
Hima Jomo Summer in Paro (Delphine Thierry): A brand that draws inspiration from and utilizes the natural resources of the vast and varying regions of Tibet, how unexpected and wonderful! Here again, we see the masterful natural perfumer, Delphine Thierry, creating truly unique scents from a pallet of quality raw materials that are both indigenous to Tibet and also have Ayurvedic properties. I truly enjoyed each of the four “Seasons” initially released by founder, Vittoria Jiaxin Liu & Randry Glorieux, (see my review of Autumn in Lhoka), but my favorite of the bunch was Summer in Paro. It is not at all a typical summer scent. The mix of honey, balsam fir and patchouli create a slightly animalic earthy scent that would be right at home on the rocky cliffs of the Himalayas. Hima Jomo Summer in Paro really does take you on olfactive journey to the top of the world.
In Fieri Ceremony (Enrico Buccella and Maria Teresa Venezia) is from house I was not familiar with until this year. Thanks to my experience with last year’s release and 2022 Art & Olfaction Award Finalist, Park of the Monsters, I was very eager to hear about the newest release from the brand, Ceremony. The fact that Ceremony includes some of my favorite notes of violet, iris and honey made it even more certain that it would be worth the effort to test it before the year end. I was not disappointed. Ceremony is a scent that deserves a patient wearing, what may seem at the start as a cosmetic, powdery scent you have smelled before becomes a dusty beeswax mixed with a beautiful floral bouquet. Just as Park of the Monsters had a retro feel, so does Ceremony. The animalic notes mixed with the floral creates an elegant vintage vibe. I was also amazed by the longevity and sillage of such a “soft” scent. This is no quick service but a true Ceremony of love. I look forward to sharing more about this gorgeous scent in upcoming review.
Jorum Studio Pony Boy (Euan McCall) is another last minute entry, I had actually planned to include Healing Berry from the earlier released Scottish Odyssey Collection however, after trying this newest addition to the Jorum Studio line, I reconsidered. While both fragrances are perfect examples of the Jorum style, highlighting unique ingredients from their homeland of Scotland, it is Pony Boy that further pushed the boundaries and produces a completely natural smelling vegetal scent. Said to be an olfactive representation of a kelpie: a shape-shifting folkloric figure rumored to inhabit lochs, Pony Boy is definitely magical. The mix of pink grapefruit, rhubarb and beetroot conjures an image of an enveloping veil of pink mist floating over the shadowy lochs. Jorum Studio Pony Boy, just as its namesake kelphie suggests, is a temptress luring you in for another sniff.
Strangers Parfumerie Sweet Farewell (Prin Lomros): I am sucker for a good rice note in perfumes and Sweet Farewell, based on a Thai dessert called “Kanom Jaak”, is a truly unique gourmand that changes up the more typical coconut / rice accord with the addition of tea-like Nipa Palm leaves. While not every creation from the prolific Prin Lomros is a love, I can always appreciate the artistry and I tend to enjoy the ones, like Sweet Farewell, where he ties the fragrance to his Thai roots. My mouth starts to water whenever I smell Sweet Farewell, and like any delicious dessert, it keeps you coming back for more.
Honorable Mentions ALL WIN AWARDS: Akro Ink, Arquiste Indigo Smoke, Calaj Panther Fangs, Dusita Montri, Guerlain Shalimar Millesime Tonka, Maher Olfactive Waking Dream, Masque Milano Sleight of Fern, Papillon Hera, Senyoko Hora de la Verdad, Zoologist Sacred Scarab
-Rachel Watson, Senior Contributor
Continuing 10 Best Perfumes of 2022 with Hernando Courtright, Sr. Contributor
ROYAL TOBACCO AMOUAGE OPUS VII (Cécile Zarokian): Just wow! Master perfumer Cécile Zarokian composed a modern tobacco masterpiece. The latest release from the Library Collection presents a complex and intense high-quality tobacco that is just so realistic. The Frankincense and bergamot opening set the tone before the darkness of the smoky tobacco takes over with boldness balanced with the vanilla’s smoothness. This one is just an awesome-smelling fragrance that lasts all day on me. This is an archetypal winter fragrance.
BYREDO DE LOS SANTOS: Quite a year for BYREDO‘S Ben Gorman. The Spanish house, Puig acquired a majority stake in his brand in a deal reportedly worth $1 billion and he also released three exceptional fragrances. DE LOS SANTOS like all their scents tells a story. This one pay homage to Día de Los Muertos and All Saint’s Day and celebrates the ritual of remembrance. For me, it is all about sage and incense which gives this earthy, bright, and well-balanced scent a mysterious quality about it. A very transitional scent. Wear it well.
DS & DURGA BISTRO WATERS (David Seth Moltz) D.S. and Durga’s founders David and Kavi present Bistro Waters their ode to the hipster ’90s bistro scene in NY (you had to have been there). Their scents are idiosyncratic and this fragrance is no different. It’s perfect for those who look toward the way a scent can settle you down. So relax and let the citrus freshness envelope you and escort you into the kitchen with a recipe of ingredients that slyly reveal themselves throughout the wear like coriander seeds, bell pepper, basil, and nutmeg. All their scents are created exclusively in-house and crafted by hand in small batches which is the only way you can create a scent like this!
GUCCI FLORA GORGEOUS JASMINE: Such a joyfully cool and refreshing fragrance. This brings the summer into the room. I adore it. But for those that don’t love white florals please go to your corner. Gorgeous Italian mandarin and bergamot notes had me at the opening. The jasmine is rich but those opening notes keep it in check. The scent is creamy smooth and never heady or cloying. A relaxed elegance. The patchouli in the dry down is just a whisper in the summer breeze.
Kelly +Jones MEZCAL AÑEJO (Steven Claisse and Kelly Jones) 2022: Kelly Jones’s Limited Edition is the fifth in her spectacular Mezcal collection and my favorite. And, it was hard to choose. It is a blend of Brocade Spices and Velveted Fruit. With notes of Velvet Jasmine, Leather, Smoked Amber, Guajillo, and Golden Peach this is a world-class cocktail that I wish I could sip on it on a cool Mexican-inspired night. A portion of every Eau de Parfum sale goes to Programa Vaca. This Mexico-based organization is helping to rebuild the country’s earthquake-affected rural areas with sustainable architecture and natural materials, for long-term, positive human impact. Bravo Kelly!
MAISON CRIVELLI PATCHOULI MAGNETIK (Quentin Bisch.): I admit I arrived late to this house which was not on my radar screen until earlier this year when I met founder Thibaud Crivelli. Of the fourteen in the line this one spoke to me because well, I love me patchouli. The scent is inspired by the experience of his motorcycle expedition through patchouli plantations during a tropical storm. I’ll take his word for it. What we have here is full-throttle patchouli, but what I enjoyed here were its earthy elegance and the gardenia. The dry down is where the payoff is.
MEMO PARIS MADURAI (Gaël Montero): Over the summer I was given a preview of this scent by a MEMO colleague. I waited for its release and I’m even more enthralled. Not one, not two, but three Jasmines are key to the composition. Jasmine Sambac, Indian Jasmine, and Egyptian Jasmine. But an alluring fruity peach note does some serious arm-twisting to get up front. Bubble gummy in the best possible way. Doesn’t quite reach the sexiness I desire but tantalizing non the less. Bloomingdale’s has released a 150-Year Commemorative Bottle with a much more vibrant design (same juice)
PARFUMS de MARLY HALTANE: Originally released as an exclusive to Harrods (hence the medium olive green color of the flacon) HALTANE arrived stateside in early Spring. One of its best qualities is that it is well-suited for year-round wear, and wears well day and night. For work or a date, it feels right. Safe but in the best way. It opens with a fresh blast of bergamot. Then the lavender takes over. Now I have a love/ hate relationship with lavender but here the love prevails. When the oud and wood come out to play it’s not intrusive. Overall it straddles being ultra-modern with old-school sensibilities. A nicely blended Fougere perfume. Projects well.
SANA JARDIN VENUS OF VERBENA (Carlos Benaim): Not clear why SANA JARDIN flies below the radar. First, master perfumer Carlos Benaim is the nose behind Sana Jardin’s fragrances. Two, Amy Christiansen, founder of Sana Jardin, contributes to the United Nations’ focus on sustainable development and empowerment for women. And three, the scents are incredible. Venus of Verbena Eau De Parfum is a fresh green citrus blend that showcases the brightness of verbena with a sparkling note of Litsea cubeba and Italian lemon oil. Just a hint of vetiver contributes to the elegant and refined woody accent of the dry down. Pristine, sheer, and invigorating, it’s so fresh, you almost want to sip it.
TOM FORD ROSE DE CHINE: Tom Ford’s world got better when Estée Lauder bought his brand for close to $3 billion this year. That being said, I don’t expect any drop-off in quality. ROSE DE CHINE is a third of a trilogy from the Private Rose Garden Collection, each inspired by the exquisite, rare blooms in Tom Ford’s own garden. This is my favorite of the three. A soft, elegant, and gorgeous rose. The Chinese peony opens up juicy and spicy at the top and evolves giving off a slightly smoky note but overall, it’s fresh and light. This is one sexy boudoir scent. Longevity could be a whisper longer but who’s complaining?
Hernando Courtright, Senior Events Contributor and Brand Ambassador
10 Best Perfumes of 2022 Giveaway
Thanks to Indigo Perfumery (USA) AND Hima Jimo there is a giveaway for a 50 ml bottle of Summer In Paro for one registered reader in the EU & UK or USA. Please tell us where you live
With gratitude to DER DUFT, for a WORLDWIDE Giveaway for Canvas for one registered reader
Thanks to Parfums de Marly we have a 125 ml bottle of Parfums de Marly Haltane for a registered CaFleureBon reader USA ONLY.
Tomorrow. Olya and Steven will have wrap up our year in review with their 10 Best Perfumes of 2022
What did you think of Rachel’s selection, honorable mentions and Hernando’s choices.
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