Top Ten Best Perfumes 2022 Karl Topham (l) and Michael Devine (r)

Now that you have heard from Ermano and me, (our Top Ten Perfumes of 2022 here) and (The Best Fragrances of 2022 here), Ida and Lauryn,  and Emmanuelle and Nicoleta, we continue our Top Ten Best Perfumes 2022 overviews today with Sr. Editor Karl Topham who lives in the UK and Senior Contributor  and Fragrance Foundation Finalist Michael Devine who resides in New Jersey. Their selections have two direct brand overlaps, but perfumers Nathalie Feisthauer, Dominique Ropion and Manuel Cross appear on both. Now it’s time to reveal their respective Top Ten Perfumes of 2022 –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

2022 was a breakthrough year in many ways; as we once again had the opportunity to pack our passports and bags to set off to far away climbs and experience perfumes, contemporary brands and discuss their merits with new and old friends. Fortunately, I was able to visit Esxence in Milan, travel to the middle east, western, central and eastern Europe to take in the olfactory vibes. There was a newfound positivity and expectation in the air and goodness did the perfumers and brands deliver! -Karl Topham, Senior Editor and UK Brand Ambassador

In alphabetical order, here are my Top Ten Best Perfumes 2022 that made it a year to remember for all the right reasons.

Amouage Royal Tobacco Opus XIV (Cécile Zarokian): The indomitable Cécile Zarokian once again teamed up with Customer Experience Officer Renauld Salmon of Amouage to create a tobacco fragrance uniting Cuba and Oman in a multifaceted and incredibly rich perfume both in terms of olfactive profile and historical connections. It is an exploration of cigar smoke from top to base blending the smoky facets with subtle sweetness and depth. There are aromatic qualities, dried fruits, and a spiky peppery nuance which blends with a unique prunol accord. Wearing it is an absolute treat, make no mistake, this is a grown-up scent for aficionados who love to dive deep into the orchestration of an ingredient and its multiple layers.

Astrophil & Stella Madame M(Nathalie Feisthauer): If there is one thing, I have learned about Nathalie Feisthauer it is her utter proficiency in seductive scents. Madame M is stacked full of sumptuous notes which create a fusion of carnality. It is a veil of subtle eroticism that creeps up on you. Luscious fruits, spices and resinous woods combine in an explosive concoction which comes with a rouge flacon, a red warning sign to those in its path. My go to for intimate date nights has always been Vapeurs DIablotines also created by Madame Feisthauer, Madame M is the scent I wish for a partner to wear. It truly is undeniably a siren in my humble opinion.

Azman Killer Vavoom (Miguel Matos): I waxed lyrical about Killer Vavoom earlier this year and my opinion has strengthened throughout time. Husen Baba has created a unique concept where all Azman perfumes are based around oud. His decision to enlist perfumer Miguel Matos in creating Killer Vavoom was inspired. Each wearing is a clandestine contract with the devil. Molten chocolate, thick iris concrete intermingling with a chypre underbelly? Oh, the body and heart yearn for it! I think we have discovered the future of artistic perfumery from the Middle East taking the soul of Arabic perfumery and twisting it unctuously with a western nose. Bravo!

Der Duft Privilege (Nathalie Feisthauer): This fragrance landed in my post box days ago and is a brand-new release. Given freedom of expression by owner Anslem Skogstad created by Master Perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer It is a personal interpretation of the word ‘privilege’ and an olfaction ode to nature. The greenery, water, woods and sea available to her. Nature in abstraction is how I would describe it. Whilst there are a vast number of notes to unpack the impression, I receive upon wearing Privilege is happiness. Particularly apparent on my skin are blackcurrant, rhubarb, sea notes, cedar and guaiac wood. The best fragrance I have smelled from Der Duft and one I will ensure is a staple in my collection.

Top Ten Best Perfumes 2022

Essential Parfums Fig Infusion (Nathalie Lorson): I have huge respect for Geraldine Archambault founder and owner of Essential Parfums. Built upon the qualities of simplicity and authenticity the collection is of a high standard and places each perfumer front and center. Fig Infusion combines a juicy and unctuous fig with black tea and sandalwood to produce a fragrance which performs as it should, highlighting fabulous natural raw materials in an unpretentious and clear style. It performs magnificently and gives the wearer security in the fact that they are experiencing top class perfumery done in an elegant way. Furthermore, Essential Parfums represents best in class whilst giving consumers their ‘bang for their buck.’

Initio Parfums Paragon: A return to form from a house I fell in love with some years back. The most recent release as part of the triumvirate of the Hedonist Collection alongside Rehab and Musk Therapy, Paragon keeps the fresh and musky experience to the fore. However, the introduction of white sage, plum and palo santo adds originality and a fresh direction to a versatile and eminently wearable perfume. Hours in and still performing magnificently the addition of sandalwood comes to the fore as a beautiful finish and there is a smidge of agarwood to round off this classy and smooth composition. On a side note, I wish the brand had promoted the perfumer of the fragrance yet unknown, but I have my suspicions on who might be the mystery perfumer.

Jusbox Perfumes Visionary Eye (Dominique Ropion): Possibly the most avant-garde perfume I selected for this list Visionary Eye was created to represent the authenticity of one’s truest self. A collision of cultural change and Bowie’s artistic genius this fragrance highlights a deep and creamy iris surrounded by aromatic and explosive notes such as Ceylon LMR cinnamon and absinthe. I was so intrigued by the story that I packed my belongings and headed to Berlin, the city that inspired the scent. Whilst Berlin is less in a time of flux in 2022 than the late 1970s / early 1980s I could notice the excitement and futuristic elements which inspired the creation of Visionary Eye by one of the premier perfumers in the world today, Dominique Ropion.

Matière Premiere French Flower (Aurelien Guichard): I was able to witness the passion and positivity of Aurelien Guichard (founder and perfumer of Matière Premiere) in London this year. His mindfulness, appreciation and cultivation of raw materials and a thirst to push boundaries were apparent. French Flower combines both honoring traditional processes of tuberose via enfleurage and harnessing new ways of invigorating our senses with Nigerian Ginger, Chinese Tea Leaf and a Pear accord, which creates a green, effervescent and slightly narcotic experience. Distinct from the commercial way tuberose can be used in perfumery, French Flower is a night blooming tuberose with bite.

Rogue Perfumery Rostracto (Manuel Cross): Manuel Cross is well-known for his neo-vintage creations and respected for his reverence for classical perfumery. Rostracto is a venture into the unknown. Rose done as a cubist painting presented, here the rose is splintered amongst an urban environment where the petals, stem and thorns seemingly appear and disappear whilst green and amber tones show themselves. Deeply emotional and original, Rostracto will challenge one’s nose to decipher its emotive message. If you ever heard the poem ‘The rose that grew from concrete’ then this fragrance might well chime with you.

Voyages Imaginaires L’Eau Des Immortels (Isabelle Doyen & Camille Goutal): In my opinion Voyages Imaginaires is a premiere natural perfumery house, who deliver on producing scents of incredible quality and durability. Their latest release is a whirl of chocolatey and solar vibrancy which struck me upon first sniff. The combination of bright and subtle sweetness would have knocked me right off my feet if I hadn’t been sitting on my first encounter with it. Delicate florals seep through into the brain and my limbic system was ablaze with gourmand, woody notes and this concert of raw materials so deftly orchestrated caused me to stop and take in what I perceive as a masterpiece in natural perfumery.

Best Limited Edition: Jeroboam Lab Edition celebrate the launch of Jeroboam eight years ago  with  a limited Lab Edition of Jeroboam Gozo, usually presented in a bright orange flacon, this special release is presented in a transparent glass bottle with an engraved insignia revealing the extract in its truest form, the same iconic scent.

Karl Topham Senior Editor and UK Brand Ambassador

2022 seemed to be the tock to 2021’s tick. For the first time in a long while, I found myself able to move on from things that were weighing me down, push through fear and refocus on what’s important. I put family above all and this pivot provided the perspective to understand what truly matters and what I can let go of. Fragrance-wise, I tried to reign in frivolous purchasing and only add bottles that truly spoke to me. Life’s too short (and my cabinet’s too small) for things that don’t move me. The perfumes that follow truly provided an emotional connection and re-established my appreciation for beauty in the world and the things that matter most.-Michael Devine, Senior Editor

In alphabetical order, Michael’s Top Ten Best Perfumes 2022

Roja Parfums Apex (Roja Dove):  Roja has proven once again he’s the master of the neoteric classic—modern compositions with a vintage feel.Apex (in both its EDP and parfum concentrations) is an assured, but approachable, chypre that’s built like an ‘80’s powerhouse. Time-honored and timeless, Apex is a kaleidoscope of greens and browns: fir balsam, galbanum, cypress, oakmoss and patchouli that, per the clever marketing, suggest the pulse of the jungle. While you may not rule the jungle, you’ll rule the boardroom. Boom!

Areej le Dore Beauty and the Beast (Russian Adam): Oud + Rose—it’s a tale as old as time. So, what does it take to stand out in a crowded field? Substance AND style. Russian Adam, known for his use of luxurious (and often costly) materials, distilled real Indian oud in rose water, adding it to a composition totaling 30% real oud, his most generous dose of oud in any of his creations. The perfume opens with a roar but grows softer as the tale unfolds, tempered by French cocoa and a rose that’s dewy, pink and cheerful. A hand-in-paw waltz in a candle-lit ballroom. Like all Areej le Dore creations, it’s a limited edition. Oud connoisseurs (and those looking for a next-level oud) should check it out before the last petal falls.

Thomas De Monaco Eau Couer (Maurus Bachmann): As I wrote in my ÇaFleureBon review of this spectacular release, “Once in a rare while, I discover a perfume that reminds me why I love perfume. It’s a discovery that’s reassuring in the acknowledgement that fragrance can be heart-meltingly beautiful; it’s also eternally baffling as I ponder the intrinsic magnificence of the invisible.” Eau Coeur is a breathtaking fragrance that’s on par with Mr. De Monaco’s first release (and industry obsession) Raw Gold. Thomas De Monaco has once again struck gold! Stunning!

For the Scent of It “Folk Tale” (Michael Schrammel):With no published accords and no scent profile, Folk Tale is an olfactive choose-your-own-adventure. I don’t want to spoil the journey with my own descriptors, so I’ll just say it smells fantastic. Beyond that, I’ll defer to Michelyn’s 2022’s rising star Michael Schrammel, who describes his creation: “I have always loved the idea of a community-based fragrance where no notes are listed and people can discuss with each other what they think they smell. The name Folk Tale comes from the idea that folk tales change over the years from person to person, writer to writer. That is exactly the thought process on this fragrance. The next step was coming up with a ‘difficult-to-decipher’ scent, and that took some time. One day, I may disclose the notes and accords I intended to be in there. Just maybe, the tale I intended to tell will change as well…”

Aaron Terrence Hughes Hard Candy (Aaron Terrence Hughes): Hard Candy is the golden ticket into the Wonka-esque world of ATH. With elements of his previous creations (while remaining wholly original), Hard Candy unfolds like a trip through Aaron’s factory. Cheeky names aside, Aaron’s collection is wonderful and all seem to be predicated on one overarching theme: they just smell so good. Hard Candy is sweet, dark and a lot naughty. You may not make Santa’s list, but you’ll make mine.

Rogue Perfumery L’Homme M.La Croix (Manuel Cross):L’Homme M.LaCroix is an homage to the original rogues of Rogue Perfumery: Manuel Cross’ ancestors Allen and Corneleius LaCroix who, for “nefarious smuggling activities,” were ousted from France in 1735 and fled to Ireland. Created using all-natural botanicals, L’Homme M. Lacroix tells the tale of their passage, with cedar to suggest the planks of the ship in which they escaped, oakmoss to suggest ink, tar and seaweed and a strapping leather accord for the renegades in all of us. Truth be told, I find it utterly refined; perhaps these bad boys, once settled in Ireland, took up golf at the local country club.

Top Ten Best Perfumes 2022

Gallagher Fragrances Mists of Time (Daniel Gallagher):Mists of Time is a curious concoction from one of our favorite indie noses. Grounded in the sweet, earthy-patchouli DNA we love from the house of Gallagher, this time with an unexpected twist of blackcurrant, candied orange and mineralic notes. Brilliant! I wore this rich and bold composition for every minute of a week-long summer vacation at a lakeside retreat and now, every time I smell it, I’m transported to misty mornings and starlit camp-side nights.

Navitus Parfums Raised Spirits (Julien Rasquinet and Dominique Ropion): Instantly obsessed! Immediately my new favorite sweater-weather fragrance, Raised Spirits, from a masterful duo, combines rum-soaked caramelized sugar with a heart of what I perceive as warm chocolate pudding. Despite these gourmand accords, the whole is almost abstract—a feeling of sweet warmth and of home. Perfect for the holidays and cozy winter nights. Bonus points for the brilliant triple-entendre title! Kudos to Steven for his creative direction.

Amouage Royal Tobacco (Cecile Zarokian): After last year’s triumph that was Silver Oud (my favorite release of 2021), Amouage has teamed up once again with Cecil Zarokian to create—ok, I’ll say it—an absolute masterpiece. Royal Tobacco smolders with frankincense in the opening and base, surrounded by tobacco absolute, licorice root, benzoin, vanilla, oud and a score of regal accords that will lift you up as your knees grow weak. It has the rich and opulent Amouage-ness while remaining totally unique. What’s a bolder assertion than “masterpiece”? Royal Tobacco was the best perfume release of 2022.

Zoologist Sacred Scarab (Sultan Pasha): Sacred Scarab is the shaft of golden light through the dust of an Egyptian tomb. Sultan Pasha, known for his exquisite attars, has crafted a stunningly wearable journey back in time. Not just to ancient Egypt, but to the vintage French perfumes of the Golden Era. With its opening of blue lotus and plum wine which swirl amid an incense heart, Sacred Scarab is a treasure and one of Zoololgist’s best releases to date. Take the journey.

Best Designer Fragrance: It wasn’t until after I’d put the above list together that I realized I’ve included only indie/niche/artisan perfumes in my top ten. While I have nothing against a great designer release, my tastes this year clearly leaned in one direction. But! If I were to have had eleven best releases of 2022, there’d have been one outstanding designer fragrance on this page. So, let’s add a new category for Best Designer Fragrance of 2022 and put the spotlight on City of Angels from Louis Vuitton. Such a fantastic and fun creation, City of Angels by Jacques Cavallier smells like pink dust. With notes of lime, blood orange, tiare flower and sandalwood, this ode to Los Angeles at night is sweet, vibrant and carefree.

–Michael Devine, Senior Contributor

For our Part 5 Top Ten Best Perfumes 2022 Giveaway:

Amazing! Thank you! Der Duft is offering 50 ml of Privilege for one registered reader Worldwide

With gratitude to Husan Baba for a 50 ml bottle of Killer Vavoom for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK, UAE

From Michelyn’s 2021’s Best Artisan House and Lauryn’s 2022 Artisan Perfumer of 2022, Rogue Perfumery is offering 30 ml of Rostracto OR L’Homme M.LaCroix in the USA, EU and UK for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK

From Navitus Parfums Raised Spirits we have we have a 100 ml bottle of Raised Spirits for one registered reader in the US or Canada. You must register or your entry will not count (sold out in UK and EU!!!)

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