Roja Parfums Apex photo by Michael
“The modernity of yesterday is the tradition of today, and the modernity of today will be tradition tomorrow.” – José Andrés
When I was about 17 years old, I started taking voice lessons. I was awed by powerhouse rock-and-roll belters, and I told my teacher that I wanted to sing like Dennis DeYoung of STYX or Steve Perry from Journey. A bold aspiration, like a bald man bringing a photo of Brad Pitt to the barber. Rather than tell me, “Don’t stop believing,” my expert instructor started working with me in a genre I was not expecting: opera. I was told that in order to learn a craft correctly, one must learn the classic form—the aggregate of technique, the foundation of all styles.
Roja Dove, Photo Courtesy Roja Parfums
When I first experienced Apex, Roja Dove’s latest creation for Roja Parfums, I was reminded of this rule and further reminded why classically-trained Roja Dove is considered a master perfumer. In true Roja-style, Apex is an utterly “now” composition, a genre-bender built on a classical structure, that reframes the architecture of refinement and re-establishes the exemplar. Time-honored, but somehow, always—timeless. And wow, does it smell good.
It’s nearing a decade since I first discovered Roja’s extraordinary creations. Looking back at my 2013 CaFleureBon review of the first entries in his line of extraits, it’s clear I was instantly enamored with his work and since then, my respect and appreciation have grown immensely. Each year for my birthday, I treat myself to a lustrous Roja Dove creation. Needless to say, I was anxious to get my nose on Roja Parfums Apex, the newest entry in his excellent line of Parfum Colognes (eau de parfum concentration with the airy, fresh feel of a cologne).
Cobra Spirit Animal Collectible Card, Photo Courtesy Roja Parfums
According to Mr. Dove, as expressed on the Roja Parfums website, Roja Parfums Apex “connects us to Earth and its spiritual energies, unleashing instincts and abilities that lay dormant within each of us. Grounded in inspiration from the world’s Apex animals, this creation was designed to unearth your connection to nature’s most powerful creatures, pushing you to challenge your limits and open your eyes to new opportunities.” In line with the inspiration, each bottle of Apex comes with a collectible card suggesting the owner’s spirit animal. Mine came with a cobra.
Henri Rousseau “The Snake Charmer” 1907 Wikipedia Commons, Public Domain
Roja Parfums Apex opens with an orchestral strike of top, middle and base notes in chordal harmony, then an olfactive decrescendo, giving space to the vibrant top notes of red mandarin, lemon and a hint of tart pineapple. It’s fresh, friendly crystalline opening slowly segues to an assured and bold heart/ base of oakmoss, fir balsam, tobacco, rum, and leather. A sweet creaminess from the sandalwood emerges, bolstered by Roja’s signature labdanum and ambergris blend. I’m usually guarded around creamy-greenness in fragrance, but here the blend is organic and approachable. The composition remains green throughout, but the shades of green evolve—hiding and emerging like something behind the trees. While the creation might be considered traditionally masculine, I think Roja Parfums Apex would smell amazing on a woman. Perhaps the same woman who’d wear Roja’s Vetiver. Whoever’s wearing Apex will smell confident and refined, grounded in tradition while in step with the exceptional.
Top Notes: Bergamot, Red Mandarin, Orange
Heart Notes: Jasmine, Cistus, Pineapple
Base Notes: Galbanum, Elemi, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Rum, Tobacco, Cypress, Fir Balsam, Juniper Berry, Casmir Wood, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Amber, Frankincense, Labdanum, Leather, Ambergris, Musk
Disclosure: Roja Parfums Apex purchased by the author. Giveaway of 5ml decant is from the author’s personal bottle.
Michael Devine, Contributor
I’m so captivated with Apex that I’d love to share it! We have a 5ml decant of Roja Parfums Apex for one registered reader in the U.S. only. To be eligible, please leave a comment what you enjoy about Michael’s review of Roja Parfums Apex and your favorite fragrance from the house. Draw closes 8/15/2022.
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