Frederic Malle Sale Gosse by Fanny Bal ~ New Perfume Review + Enfant Terrible Draw

 Robert standing in front of the Frederic Malle boutique in the Marais© (photo by Ron Hall)

Sometime in the mid-2000’s I stumbled across Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower and started my rapid descent down the rabbit hole of niche perfumes. From that first swoon-worthy sniff I have been partial to the Malle range ever since. I can’t even count the number of favorites I have from Malle. So on our recent jaunt to Paris and discovering that our AirB&B was only two blocks from the Malle boutique in the Marais, well…. you know how the story ends. The jewel box of a boutique is an extraordinary architectural collaboration between Frederic Malle and architects Jakob + MacFarlane. Although tiny, the boutique surfaces are all mirrored creating the effect of endless space into infinity. The shelving is all ‘hive-like plywood that undulates sensually and perfectly showcases Malle’s fragrances. Displayed prominently too, are the photos of the world class perfumers Malle chose to create his fragrances and read like a Who’s Who of Perfume royalty;  Jean-Claude Ellena, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Bruno Jovanovic, Carlos Benaim, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Bourdon, Edmond & Michael Roudnitska, Ralf Schwieger, Edouard Flechier, Sophia Grojsman and Fanny Bal.

Photo by Robert H©

The boutique is staffed by two bright, young, and knowledgeable SAs who were able to answer all my questions, and created a truly enjoyable shopping experience. I walked out with the two newest perfumes from 2017: Music For A While (a really terrific lavender) and the new EU Exclusive limited edition called Frederic Malle Sale Gosse By Fanny Bal.

Fanny Bal and Frederic Malle in New York (photo courtesy of Fanny Bal)

Fanny Bal is one of the new up and coming perfumers,(you can read her CaFleureBon Young Perfumer feature here) and although still in her early 30’s is already known for her work for Armani Privé, Issey Miyaki, Paco Rabanne, and the new Hemingway for Masque Milano.

Via Candy magazine©

Frederic Malle Sale Gosse by Fanny Bal is a “play on words” (a French colloquialism for ‘bratty little child’) and described as “An ode to ‘enfants terribles’ and all manner of monkey business: doodles on the blackboard, devious schemes and pranks galore. Petitgrain, neroli, bergamot and rosemary are infused with a cheeky smile of violet and strawberry for a taste of bubblegum, old-fashioned sweets and getting away with murder.

Cara Delevingne for Love Magazine©

The concept of a perfume based on the ‘enfant terrible’ is not a new one having been done by Etat Libre d’Orange with Divin ‘Enfant, L’Enfant Terrible by Jovoy Paris, and Enfant Terrible by 2017 Art & Olfaction winner Claire Baxter for Sixteen92 among others, but Fanny Bal’s interpretation twists it a bit. Frederic Malle Sale Gosse by Fanny Bal opens with a bright summery cologne-like blast of neroli, bergamot, petitgrain and herbal rosemary, this is a bad child who has been brought to task and scrubbed clean for Sunday church. Gone are the dirty fingernails, scraped knees, and oily hair; this kid has been shorn of all his (or her) play day grime and now positively glows in their Sunday best. But what you don’t know is that in the child’s pocket are some sticky candies snuck in there on the way out the door, and are now a bit worse for wear from the heat of the day and the cloth confinement. Although the classic cologne notes carry through, they are made a bit subversive by the candied notes of the violet and rose, and the slight strawberry perfume of the fraises de bois makes one realize that the child has once again pulled the wool over your eyes and has still managed to do things in their own inimitable and incorrigible way. This is a scent that one could most happily wear to a Fourth Of July or Bastille Day picnic or fête, it is fun and happy all the while serving to remind us to not take “adulting” so very seriously. Notes: Neroli oil, Bergamot, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Narcisse Absolute, Rose, Violet, Fraises de Bois, Musk

Disclosure: The perfume and opinions are my own.

-Robert Herrmann, Senior Editor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Robert's photo of his bottle of Frederic Malle Sale Gosse by Fanny Bal©

Thanks to Robert Herrmann, we have one hand-poured 10 ml. decant of Frederic Malle Sale Gosse By Fanny Bal for one registered reader In the USA,so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Frederic Malle Sale Gosse By Fanny Bal and if you have a favorite Frederic Malle Draw closes 5/24/2018

We announce the winners only on our website and on so like Cafleurebon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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13 comments

  • NiceVULady says:

    This sounds like such a fun and flirty fragrance, especially for the summer. I like Robert’s suggestion that this is the enfant terrible who has cleaned up, but still maintains just a little of the “bad girl.” Wonderful review as always. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I must brush up on my French, or use the google translate. I never know what the names of these French fragrances mean. I’d love to smell a fragrance to remind me not to take “adulting” so seriously…especially now as an educator at the end of another school year. Ready for some fun! I’ve never smelled anything from this line, but always hear such good things. I hope it will soon be carried by someone in my town. Thanks Robert! USA.

  • I’ve never tried anything from Frederic Malle. But I love the notes in this one. I’m a big fan of neroli and bergamot because it’s so clean and uplifting. Plus, there’s rose notes in it and I just love anything rose scented.
    I live in the US.

  • sounds like a serious perfume with a smirk of youthfulness. the bubblegum part very delicious. U.S.A.

  • perfumelover67 says:

    Thanks for the draw Robert. The notes are perfect for hot summer days. I am a cologne lover. Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie and Carnal Flower have been my favorites from the line. Sale Gosse sounds very interesting. I live in the US.

  • Thank you for the draw Robert . I love Malle fragrances. Portrait of a lady, Carnel Flower, and just tried Music for a while. Amazing. Sale Gosse would be fun to try. I live in the US.

  • Sounds like a great and fun fragrance. Haven’t tried any Frederic Malle fragrances. Like to check out his line and this one.
    Thanks. California

  • Sounds like a fun selection for Summer. Very clever! Be nice to try it. In USA.3H9H

  • Lori Laws says:

    I loved Robert’s article! I am happy to see new and young perfumers like Fanny Bal putting their mark on luxury brands. This really sounds like a fun and flirty fragrance that many will enjoy. My first introduction to Frederic Malle also was Carnal Flower and I have many favorites in the line. Thanks for the opportunity and I live in the US! 🙂

  • Barbara Carter says:

    This sounds like a fun poke at a summer cologne, and in a humorous way. In a way it reminds me of that penhaligon cologne concept with the rag doll head, something that perverts in the best way. As always, Robert, you are such a descriptive writer, and I so enjoy your take on things. Absolutely lovely!

  • jeremyn87 says:

    I like somewhat sweet, candied florals at times, including rose and violet. Sounds nice with the edc type of notes.
    I like Portrait of a Lady and Musc Kublai Khan
    I’m in the US

  • newyork318 says:

    Classic cologne neroli and sweet candy sounds like an interesting combination. Haven’t yet tried any other Frederic Malle fragrances.

  • I would love to try this, the development of the candied smell after the fresh neroli and bergamot sounds quite intriguing. I am a huge fan of Carnal Flower and Musc Ravageur by Malle. I’m in the U.S.