New Fragrance Review: (Part 1) Fresh from Florence “Six” by Jovoy Paris + Reader’s Choice Draw

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As Sergey Borisov reported, Jovoy Paris had a preview of six new fragrances at Pitti Fragranze in Florence. Thanks to Emmanuelle Varron and Jovoy Paris  CaFleureBon readers will have a reader's choice today, Friday September 23rd  and Saturday the 24th. Today choose one of the six new perfumes and tomorrow you will have your pick of eleven new candles.

The perfumistas in Paris will tell you  "The place to go” for rare fragrances is Jovoy Paris.  François Hénin, the owner of Jovoy, the expert, has worked extensively on six new compositions in collaboration with Jacques Flori, Mark Fanton d'Andon, Michelle Saramito (all at Robertet) and Cécile Zarokian. 


 
Ambre Premier


Amber!   Every line must have one, but is it perfect for the pickiest of amber aficionados   How many times have we been disappointed  in our quest ; some  are too heavy, too heady or  been there smelled that.  To create a unique amber fragrance is a perilous exercise in Haute Parfumerie. Ambre Premieris a  tour de force of both innocence and experience; first it evokes the candy floss sweetness of our youth and then tempts us by leading us by the nose into a world of sensuality.  

Notes: floral rose, patchouli, amber, vanilla


Perfumer: Michelle Saramito (Robertet)



 
L’Arbre de la Connaissance


The perfume is a reference to the famous fig leaf that allowed Adam to hide his nakedness once he has tasted forbidden knowledge in in the Garden of Eden.

Fig fans will rejoice and find a new  garden in the woods.   
L’Arbre de la Connaissance is deep, mysterious, fruity and woody; there is a spicy touch that gives this scent a lot of character.

Notes: leaves, fruit, figs, woody sandalwood, patchouli, fig


Perfumer: Mark Fanton d'Andon (Robertet)

 

Pierre Benard Osmoart


 
 
L'Enfant Terrible


In France an  "enfant terrible" is a  rebellious person that stands up to the establishment  … but  who is also often endearing. It is a term we give to some of our favorite mavericks- artists, musicians, actors, who push the boundaries, yet are always seductive with a distinct attitude that separates him/her from the masses.  It is an ode to the woods, fruits and spices that grab your senses, and does not let go of your senses. The opening is reminiscent of the famous “Feminitie de Bois"  by Serge Lutens.  As the fragrance develops it becomes more gourmandise – a spicy ‘jam’

Notes: nutmeg, coriander, cumin, sandalwood, cedar, orange, date

 Perfumer: Jacques Flori (Robertet)

 


 
La Liturgie des Heures

If you are like me and your heart leaps at the evocation of incense in fragrances, you will want to choose  La Liturgie des Heures.  My first thought went to the memory of reading The Name of the Rose by Umberto Eco, and the intellectual and non-conformist monk who lives in the mysterious monastery of the time of the Spanish Inquisition, where  the twists and turns of the perfume’s plot are extremely sophisticated  but unlike the book, you will  wear the perfume again and again (Editor’s note: The Name of the Rose is a book  'intellectuals all claim to have read, but rarely makes it through the first few chapters).

Notes: cypress, incense, frankincense, rock rose, myrrh
Perfumer: Jacques Flori (Robertet)


 
Private Label


Private Label's oriental numances will delight you without overwhelming you. As I am a lover of ‘shared' fragrances and androgyneous scents, Private Label was the easiest for me to wear. Labdanum is the feminine and  leather is the masculine; it will challenge some but delight others.  (Sergey B. is a fan)

Notes: papyrus, vetiver, leather, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum, birch, cedar
Perfumer: Cécile Zarokian

 

 


 
 
Psychédélique

 Psychédélique is patchouli par excellence evoking Woodstock, Peace and Love, freedom, sexuality and yes Janis and Jimi. A bomb! Not easy to wear for some but this is the new fragrance of my heart. Rich, earthy and un parfum de ma couer. with tons of sillage (without smelling like headshop). 1960s may be ‘heard’ in the notes, but the fragrance sings a contemporary tune on the skin (without the retro vintage feel of some "summer of love" patchouli perfumes).

Foxy Lady as sung by Kid Cudi!

  Notes: floral rose, geranium, amber, woody (Patchouli, Cistus, labdanum), vanilla, musk

50ml edp -80 Euros

100ml edp 120 Euros

.-Emmanuelle Varron, Contributor

-EIC Michelyn Camen, Art Direction

To be eligible choose the  new Jovoy Paris fragrance you believe that you would like the best  (and why) as well as the note that sings to you ie fig, amber, incense, gourmand etc. The draw is for the 100ml size.  Draw ends Monday September 26, 2011

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61 comments

  • La Liturgie des Heures:
    cypress, incense, frankincense, rock rose, myrrh…all my favourites notes toghether in a bottle.
    It must be mine!

  • La Liturgie des Heures for me as well….I’m a sucker for cypress and incense. I so want to test all of these down the line.

  • Definitely L’Arbre de la Connaissance. I love the Biblical reference and enjoy eating fresh figs (as well as fig notes in perfume!) And just as an aside Cafleurebon’s graphics and visuals are outstanding! They always add to the pleasure of my readings! Thanks for the draw!

  • La Liturgie des Heures – I was looking for an incense fragrance…If I’m lucky, this might be it! Thanks for the draw 🙂

  • Private Label for me! I’m getting weak in my knees when I hear “Leather” 🙂
    Thank u for the draw!

  • L’Enfant Terrible. I have a few of those living in my house being disobedient about cleaning their rooms they get it from me! HAha I dont clean my room either (unless I have too of course). I digress. I have to agree the artwork was awesome. I liked the little handbag with the couple on it. I had to take a second look at it to ‘get it’. Cumin and date sound like an excellent mix. I like the grab you and will not let go aspect that fits right into my personality. Thanks for the draw. xo

  • tried one of my samples last night…L’Arbre de la Connaissance, i am smitten, swoon, over the moon. If you like Byredo Pulp…this one is for you. It is opulent, rich, deep and yummi. These truly are beautiful fragrances. And then again, i have always been a fan of Jovoy in general. So my choice would definitely be this one. Loved reading this, so excited for this line.

  • The notes that sings to me are Amber and Patchouli many times, especially now, great for the cooler weather 🙂

  • I would pick La liturgie des Heures. A good incense fragrance is missing in my collection, and I don’t know why, because I love that note. And this perfume contains cypress too, which is a note that always sings to me. So La liturgie des Heures has a good chance of being my cup of tea.

    Please, enter me in the draw. Thank you!

  • I would pick Psychédélique. I have been loving patchouli lately, and I hope the fact that I love SL Borneo means this one wouldn’t be too much for me. The addition of labdanum makes it even more interesting.

  • Psychedelique, why? The name is awessome, I am a 60s psychedelic music freak and this would be perfect for me!
    Also lately I’ve been exploring patchouli and liking some: Mazzolari, the new Dior Patchouli Imperial, PG L’Ombre Fauve and the Nobile 1942 Patchouli too.
    The weather is getting a little bit cold and this would be awesome to wear now. Thanks!

  • So hard to decide. La Liturgie des Heures is my first pick.

    How could I say no to cypress, incense, frankincense and myrrh?
    Also the association with The Name of the Rose. I have to try this!

  • I “think” I would like Private Label the best. It’s so hard for me to know as I’m just beginning to learn my preferences and what I like. I think I will like it because of the vetiver and leather. I used to get confused reading rave reviews of fragrances by women that sounded so manly only to discover that I actually have the same preference! ….I think…. LOL

  • As a child of the ’70s my choice would have to be Psychedelique. I love all of the notes, especially patchouli. Your descriptions of these scents makes me want to try all of them.

  • Thank you Emmanuelle for the wonderful previews. Yes, my heart leaps just like yours at the thought of incense in fragrance, which is why La Liturgie des Heures would be my pick (although it has stiff competition from Ambre Premier). Jovoy the boutique hold some of my most wonderful scented memories from Paris, with the most wonderful customer service, as well as some nice bottles in my perfume cabinet 😉

  • Hard to say which will be the best choice.There is favourite notes in all of them,but I’ll go for La Liturgie des Heures.Incense is one of my favourite notes and I have a lot incense fragrances,but I would love to try this not only because of the notes but for Jacques Flori.He has created some of my favourite scents and I love his work especially with incense.

  • Mmmmmm I’m torn between all of these, but leaning most towards L’Arbre de la Connaissance and Ambre Premier. Since fig is a note I like to like and have no fig-centered fragrances in my wardrobe, I guess that is the one I’d most like to smell.

  • L’Enfant Terrible! I must have this- the SPICES in this call out my name, cumin, coriander, oh and the cedar, too, YUM! The comparison to FdB (that morphs into a gourmand no less) only piques my interest more, this spicy deliciousness is what the season’s fragrances are all about!

  • L’Enfant Terrible is singing my name! I love fruity woody fragrances, and Feminite du Bois is one of my favorites. Great draw! Thanks.

  • Paul Hernandez says:

    I would love to have La Liturgie des Heures it sounds right up my alley. Incense scents are wonderful for Autumn, especially when well made. Please enter me in the draw. 🙂

  • John Reasinger says:

    My “choice” is La Liturgie des Heures as I am absolutely the BIGGEST fan of cypress and it’s sharp green somewhere between juniper and pine scent! *sighs* Not to mention the wonderful incense accord made of rockrose, olibanum and myrrh…THIS sounds like something “made just for me”! I have never even smelled a JOVOY fragrance and would love to try this whole line. They all sound very very awesome!! Thank you Michelyn and JOVOY Paris…for this wonderful chance!

  • Psychedelique for me!! I know a lot of these have patchouli but this sounds like the kind of patchouli fragrance I love to wear.

    What a great draw!!

  • Hard choice since they all sound so wonderful … but I think I would pick Private Label. I love leather scents! The labdanum paired with the leather is calling my name!

  • I would go for “liturgie des heures” for the incense, wich I love ( and for the reference to Eco)
    thanks

  • I like the sound of the notes in Liturgie des Heures. It seems that I am not alone here, it is a popular one!

  • Psychédélique has got to be the one for me. Death by patch. I need something to take me back to the early seventies!

  • I just sniffed Psychédélique and will say its a close reminder to Parfumerie Generale Cedre Sandaraque….gorgeous for the cooler weather and an opulent choice 🙂

  • And if you love a soft Incense, you will most definitely love La Liturgie des Heures for sure. My choice is definitely the L’Arbre de la Connaissance, that deep pulpy juicy fig is getting me 🙂 yelling my name( it reminds me of Byredo Pulp for sure). I also tested the Ambre Premier, its a beautiful gently sweet Amber, not as deep as Ambre Narguile, more like the Dior Ambre Nuit, but also a winner for all you Amber Lovers. These are all beauties and i am excited for their release.

  • The note that is singing to me is the fig note, I enjoy everything about it from it’s leaves to it’s delicious sweet fruit. I would love to own L’Arbre de la Connaissance. It sounds masterfully made.

  • Ambre Premier has the ancient treasures of fragrances I have always dreamt about. Mystique, magnificent magic for me.

    The floral rose, patchouli, amber and vanilla in combination must be a winner!

  • Thanks to all of you for your comments. I wore L’Arbre de la Connaissance today, and I was twice asked by people what was my perfume. Always nice… The winner will be a lucky perfumista ! 😉

  • Figs bring back memories of late summer and wonderful times with my family. The scent that I desire has to be L’Arbre de la Connaissance. I would love to experience a woodsy Fig.

  • I don’t think I’d be disappointed to win or wear any of these. As a fan of leather as a note, I’m very intrigued by Private Label (and definitely swayed by the beautiful illustration accompanying it).

    However, after much consideration, the patchouli lover in me has to finally choose Psychedelique.

    Thanks for the draw opportunity.

  • L’Arbre de la Connaissance for me. I love fig notes, but they are always treated kind of in a soliflore way (except my adored Ninfeo Mio), so combining fig with patchouli and sandalwood gives me a hint of how lush and delicious this one may be.
    Will I gain knowledge every time I wear it?

  • Ooh, I don’t when you last presented a collection where I’ve had the most difficulty choosing just one out of. Usually I can quickly choose one that just stands out sort of thing. But these six, wow, they all sound like fragrances I’d totally love as much as the other. So for once choosing a preferred one is proving almost impossible.
    Am really fond of all their names too. These really look like a fantastic collection. So I’m certainly impressed so far. I hope they smell just as good. … Well, with a twisted arm I will have to go with the mysterious figgy number : L’Arbre de la Connaissance please ! … I think patchouli and sandalwood will be great fig companions ! … In fact, I think I sense a fig and/or date trend seems imminent. There has been quite a few with these released lately.

  • I think I’d love Private Label the best as it contains labdanum and that is my note of choice lately. 🙂 Seems to have a calming effect on my nerves.

  • Michelle Hunt says:

    Gourmands often sing to my heart, particularly the cozy, warm, spicy and nuanced ones. I’ve been seeking the perfect amber and Ambre Premier would be my choice should I be so lucky as to win this generous draw!

  • It is still difficult for me to get an idea how a perfumes might smell by reading about the notes used. Some cross-references to well know perfumes are very helpfull. La Liturgie des Heures and L’Arbre de la Connaissance sound both interesting. But that can be easy said about the whole line.

  • Elemi
    Each perfume is unique and we try not to compare one art to another that’s why we review them
    Smells like is somewhat insulting to the perfumer unless there is a comparison to a hall mark scent
    In this case Emmanuelle did make a reference to féminité du bois
    Since this a draw and not a purchase and we all have different chemistry it is an unknown since every scent smells different
    Thank you for your feedback

  • I had a phase when I really went for gourmands but nowadays I’m more “omnivorous”. Out of these, the incense calls me… I’d choose La Liturgie des Heures. I think it’s a combination of autumn time (when I enjoy woody, smoky, incensey stuff the most) and with this particular fragrance review the association with The Name of the Rose in my mind that attracts me to it.

  • Amber! Yes, every line needs to have one, and I need to have an amber from every line. I have several different ones and I cannot give up any of them. Based on that, I am guessing I’d love Ambre Premier most.

    Thanks for a fabulous draw!

  • I hope I’m not too late!
    I would LOVE LOVE LOVE Psychedelique!! I’ve always felt like I’ve been born in the wrong time. And any perfume that has an affinity with music is a MUST HAVE for me! The curiosity is killing me and the sound of this is inspiring!