Vintage Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette (Alberto Morillas) 1986 + The 80’s Feline Chypre Giveaway

  Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette 1986

Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette creates a scented storm in 17th century Pieter Boel “Panthers” – painting ©RMN-Grand Palais / Gérard Blot, bottle and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

When we reach a certain age and our passion for perfume has lasted for several decades, the wonderful emotions provoked by certain fragrances are anchored deep in our hearts, carried by people who have made history in our lives, or by ourselves; and therefore, eternally linked to the key moments of our existence. But what about the (re)discovery of perfumes that we have never heard of or worse, that we completely missed when they were launched? What about making way for a brand-new look (and nose) at those to let ourselves finally being carried away? A delicious pleasure often frustrating, alas, since these “classics” are now discontinued. This is why I have always been careful not to invest too much of myself emotionally and financially in what is called “vintage” fragrances.

Best vintage perfumes

Sniffing teatime at Olivier’s with some great vintage fragrances and some more recent masterpieces brought by all attendees – ©Emmanuelle Varron. (can you identify any of them?)

But friendship and a common passion have this ability to break down barriers. It is the collective Sunday sniffing sessions regularly organized by chemist-fragrance lover-editor Olivier (around cakes and cups of tea) that allow me to dive back into the delights of the perfumery of yesteryear. And proved to me that my olfactory culture can sometimes be lagging behind. I have the impression, during these friendly sessions, that I am rediscovering the basics of perfumery, the beauty of raw materials that have survived time… and that I have neglected some masterpieces. For example, I remember Féminité du Bois in its extract version by Shiseido. I was so taken by its beauty (bottle and fragrance), its complexity and its depth that I had tears in my eyes while smelling it. And you will easily understand that I very much regret having missed out on an almost perfect perfume in 1992. But I was just 20 at the time, and I didn’t understand it.

Inevitably, by dint of smelling a few treasures that can no longer be found on the market (except from collectors and at crazy prices), I sometimes let myself being tempted when I notice a bottle that “fleure bon” (smells good) over the past few decades. And it was a bit by chance that I came across a shop in the heart of Paris a few weeks ago. A kind of Ali Baba’s cave which at first glance looks more like a bazaar, but actually conceals great surprises. The owner of the place quickly understood that he was speaking with a perfumista and took out a few bottles well hidden in his boxes. I had fun checking the batches and going back to other decades for nearly two hours.

Cartier Panthere perfumes

The panther is Cartier symbolic animal, both used for the brand’s jewelry and perfumes – ©Cartier, ©Assouline, ©DR.

Among the first he showed me was a bottle of Cartier Panthère, in its 1986 version as a “parfum de toilette” (what a funny appellation!). It stayed on the counter for a long time, patiently waiting to capture my attention. Capless, but made of beautiful, sandblasted glass with superbly chiseled cutouts reminiscent of Cartier La Panthère, its successor released in 2014. I never lost sight of it but was letting me be drawn into the discovery of unknown creations. And then, I finally devoted some time to Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette. Still installed at the counter of the boutique, I suddenly had only one desire: to discover this mythic fragrance created by Firmenich Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas of which I had only a vague memory. I thought the salesman wouldn’t want me to spray Cartier Panthère on my wrist…but I dared to ask him anyway. And it is with a frank “Of course, you can!” that he gave me the green light. What about Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette, then? The problem with perfumes that aged is that the top notes have often disappeared or mingle cheerfully with the heart notes. Identifying (all) the raw materials thus becomes a perilous exercise. I admit that looking at the (huge) olfactive pyramid, I find it difficult to perceive its entirety. So, I will tell you about it with my heart, even more than usual.

 Alberto Morillas Firmenich

Alberto Morillas, Firmenich Master Perfumer and Cartier Panthère composer – ©Firmenich.

From the first second, I dive into the 1980s, overflowing with colors, pep, and energy; a time when perfumes were anything but timid! My tuberose-addicted skin immediately noticed that Alberto Morillas had generously integrated it into his formula. It is intoxicatingly powerful, and so carnal! I also perceive the chypre note, a little behind, but which I feel installed for a long time; there too, the dive into the “eighties” is obvious. Panthère Parfum de Toilette is generous in everything: flowers, spices, woods, balms; it has the charm of a coat that has nicely weathered over the years, a little  worn but still comfortable, and that comes back to life in contact with the wearer’s skin. Already 37 years old, is a voluptuous and addictive perfume, which would make the most introverted a vamp. Its powdery note brings some sophistication that allows it not to dive into the “too much” and imposes a certain chic. Since it joined my collection (of course, I bought it!), I love wearing it in the evening, even at night before going to bed. Despite its power (and tenacity), Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette envelops me in a floral sensuality from another time like a shimmering and generous bouquet and wakes me up in the early hours of the morning in a languorous, balmy and amber sweetness. Happiness in a bottle, like a rebirth… I would even say an olfactory uplifting that I would offer myself!

Vintage Cartier Panthère 1986 parfum de toilette Cartier La Panthère 2014

Emmanuelle’s “brand new” Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette bottle, next to her Cartier La Panthère Parfum bought in 2014 – ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Of course, I compared my two Panthères to find similarities and differences. Cartier La Panthère Parfum (2014) is more animalic and plays on a modern chypre note that made it a success upon its release. Is it the advantage of (younger) age? The musk is much more noticeable in Mathilde Laurent’s creation and the rose that I do not perceive in 1986 Cartier Panthère Parfum de Toilette is almost omnipresent. They are two magnificent perfumes that play on a common spine but have an identity that makes them easily recognizable. I would be tempted to say that given the time of its launch, 2014 Cartier La Panthère Parfum is almost a (blessed) anomaly in the world of perfumery; 1986 Cartier Panthère is a delicious elixir to go back in time, a “vintage” that has lost none of its splendor over the years, and a great ambassador of the 1980s.

 Notes: orange blossom, mandarin, ginger, cistus, pepper, grapefruit, tuberose, carnation, gardenia, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, jasmine, narcissus, heliotrope, karo karounde, iris, vetiver, civet, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, tonka bean, frankincense, patchouli, cedarwood, musk.

Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador

1986 vintage Cartier Panthère parfum de toilette

Emmanuelle’s Cartier Panthère Parfum de toilette 75 ml bottle – ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Thanks to Emmanuelle, we have a 3 ml sample of Cartier Panthère for one registered reader in USA, UK and EU. To be eligible, please tell what discontinued fragrance you would love to buy again, how you feel about Emmanuelle’s review and where you live. Draw closes 02/21/2023.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @monbazarunlimited @cartier @morillas.alberto

This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


18 comments

  • I would like to buy VERSACE Oud Noir again. I feel that Emmanuel’s review was really precise and professional. I absolutely loved it. I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU.

  • Sarah Faichney says:

    Oh dear Lord, I would so love to smell this! I only discovered La Panthère Parfum last year, followed by the EDP very recently. I absolutely adore them both and would dearly love to experience the original formulation. It’s so special to me. I tend not to wish for unicorns, preferring to try to make the most of what is readily available (and affordable) to me. Having said that, I would love to smell the original L’air du Temps. Luca Turin speaks of it with such reverence. This was my late Mum’s signature scent so it means a great deal to me. I can’t bear to wear it myself but still, I would love to smell the best version of it. I’m in the UK and would love to enter the draw please. The prize is so very generous of you, Emmanuelle, and your review is just perfect. The shop in Paris sounds incredible and what a wonderful owner! Thank you for sharing your experience with us.

  • Ooh I love the 80s and 90s boldness, lush and free. I really adore the blends. Not afraid to be a bit indolic or animalic but always with an eye for a sophisticated dry down. Probably my favorite era. Lately I’ve been savoring my vintage Ysatis (Ropion) and Amarige (Girard) by Givenchy, as small as they are… my precious! Lol
    If I could have a full large bottle of that and a few others I’d be in heaven!
    I can understand completely the tears of wonder, joy and pleasure from a “new” vintage perfume. Whether it be memories or discovery.
    What a kind gift to give and I’m thankful for the opportunity to win the 3ml. In USA

  • Wow that was a lovely review and story by Emmanuelle. Enjoyed reading about the differences between the parfum and EDT versions of Cartier Panthère. And what a fantastic set of notes. One perfume that I miss is Tobacco Fresh, not very fancy, but with great memories. Thanks for the reviews and beautiful writing. From continental USA.

  • Midnight in paris would be the discontinued fragrance I would buy. Emmanuelle’s review touches upon the philosophical aspects of fragrance, which I love! I’m in California.

  • I loved Emmanuel reviews very honest and nostalgic. I would love see original Dior Poison. Thanks a million from the UK

  • problem with perfumes that aged is that the top notes have often disappeared or mingle cheerfully with the heart notes. Identifying (all) the raw materials thus becomes a perilous exercise. I admit that looking at the (huge) olfactive pyramid, I find it difficult to perceive its entirety. So, I will tell you about it with my heart, even more than usual. A beautiful description by Emmanuel evoking past memories of yesterday’s bold classics. I would love to see Givenchy Ysatis. Thanks a lot from the United Kingdom

  • Cartier Panthere is one of big loves. I have tried the Éditon Soir, Noir Absolu, EDP, EDT and I would love to see how the original was.
    It’s so fascinating to imagine how perfumery was back in 1986. And the chemistry and alchemy that makes the liquid still capture the essence of Cartier after almost 40 years.
    Thank you Emmanuelle for another great review! Also for mentioning Shiseido Féminité du Bois, which I knew nothing about but sure seems like a gem.
    Hugs from EU

  • Great article by Emmanuelle, she really blowed it out of the park with this one. Gucci has put out some masterpieces, that sadly, have been discontinued. Gucci Envy for men, Gucci Rush, Gucci Pour Homme 1 & 2, to name the ones that come to mind. Hopefully I can someday try these again.

    I live in Sweden, EU.

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I hope to win this decant because I have an interest in perfumery history, and I’m interested to see if I’ve smelled this fragrance before. Alberto Morillas is one of my favorite perfumers. I can like another fragrance he made in about 1986, Givenchy’s “Xeryus”, so I’d like to experience this one too. One reason why I’m intrigued to try it is when Emmanuelle says “1986 Cartier Panthère is a delicious elixir to go back in time, a “vintage” that has lost none of its splendor over the years, and a great ambassador of the 1980s.” I live in the U.S.A.

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I hope to win this decant because I have an interest in perfumery history, and I’m interested to see if I’ve smelled this fragrance before. Alberto Morillas is one of my favorite perfumers. I can like another fragrance he made in about 1986, Givenchy’s “Xeryus”, so I’d like to experience this one too. One reason why I’m intrigued to try it is when Emmanuelle says “1986 Cartier Panthère is a delicious elixir to go back in time, a “vintage” that has lost none of its splendor over the years, and a great ambassador of the 1980s.” I live in the U.S.A. An example of a discontinued fragrance I’d like to try is Gucci “Envy”.

  • I dream about having my own bottle of Panthère since their immersion experience in Paris. I never expected it to be so beautiful. As for discontinued fragrances, I wish I could get a Oeillet Bengale from Aedes de Venustas and Dries Van Noten from Frederic Malle. I live in Paris, France

  • I love content like this on CaFleureBon. Us relative newcomers to the hobby learn a lot from your thoughts about vintage perfumes, even if they’re hard to come by. I found the comparison of the two Cartier Panthère formulations particularly interesting; I wouldn’t have expected the rose note to vary so dramatically. Wonderful essay, Emmanuelle!

    I’m in the midwest USA. My father had a small sample of Givenchy Xeryus around growing up and I’d love to smell it again. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • foreverscents says:

    I loved the way Emmanuelle described spraying Panthère at bedtime and waking up to “languorous, balmy, and amber sweetness.” I love to wear amber perfumes to bed, too. They comfort me at night.
    I would love to buy Ungaro pour L’Homme and Ralph Lauren Chaps again.
    I live in the USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the really nice review Emanuelle. It’s really nice to see these vintage fragrances being brought back to see the light of day. Their notes are so beautiful, and I adore the use of carnation and cistus in these fragrances.

    It’s good fortune to have run into that partcular shop.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Wonderful review Emmanuelle! I really like how Emmanuelle’s review compares the similarities and differences of the older 1986 Cartier Panthère and the current version, noting that the current is more animalic and musky, with a rose that is strong and central and how she describes them as “two magnificent perfumes that play on a common spine but have an identity that makes them easily recognizable.” The discontinued fragrance that i would love to buy again is the original Dioressence by the inestimable Guy Robert. I live in the US.