Vilhelm Parfumerie Chimilka

Vilhelm Parfumerie Chimilka by Olya Bar

Marking a decade of artistry, Vilhelm Parfumerie introduces The Triptych Collection, a trio of fragrances crafted by the brand’s original Robertet perfumer, Jérôme Epinette. Each scent—Great Lord, Chimilka, and Sun Cities—rests on a foundation of powdery leather, osmanthus, and immortelle, with the depth of patchouli and oakmoss shaping the base. A single defining note sets each apart, yet they remain connected, like variations on a theme, exploring different facets of texture, warmth, and movement.

The Triptych Collection by Vilhelm Parfumerie via the brand.

Since March is International Women’s Month, it seems natural to start with Chimilka, a fragrance that defies simple classification. She is strength without rigidity, movement without chaos—an interplay of contrasts that coexist rather than compete. There is no singular expression of femininity here; instead, it unfolds as something fluid, at times delicate, at times unyielding.

From the outset, Vilhelm Parfumerie Chimilka is full of energy. Ripe peach, lush and golden, spills onto the skin, followed closely by the brightness of mandarin, a citrus note that brings clarity and light. But what begins as something almost playful quickly shifts as cardamom enters, its spice sharpening the fruit, introducing tension and depth. This is where the composition begins to show its complexity—sweetness meets structure, a softness edged with something more assertive.

Image of Jerome Epinette via Robertet.

The heart belongs to leather, though not the kind that settles into comfort. There’s an edge to it, a slight roughness amplified by saffron’s dry heat, pulling the fragrance into a space that feels untamed yet deliberate. This is not suede, not a whisper of leather, but something more textural—less about polish and more about presence. It doesn’t sit quietly against the skin; it leaves an impression, lingering like the weight of something well-worn, familiar yet always evolving.

Vilhelm Parfumerie Chimilka via the brand.

As it settles, the chypre structure emerges, but not in the traditional sense. Chinese osmanthus softens the edges, lending a creamy apricot warmth, rounding out the sharper tones of the leather and saffron. Patchouli cuts through with a deep, earthy richness, ensuring the composition never veers into excess, while amber brings a quiet radiance, tempering the contrasts without dulling them. In the final stages, a hint of pink sugar and musk weaves through—never overt, just enough to add texture, a slight shift in tone before the fragrance fully settles.

The Triptych Collection feels like a natural extension of Vilhelm Parfumerie’s identity—a continuation rather than a reinvention. There is nothing loud or attention-seeking about these fragrances, yet they have a presence, the kind that lingers in memory rather than demanding to be noticed. It’s nearly impossible to pick a favorite. Each one brings something unique to the table, and they’re all worth experiencing.

Notes: Velvety Peach, Italian Mandarin, Cardamom from Sri Lanka, Dark Leather, Violet, Greek Saffron, Oakmoss, Corsican Immortelle, Chinese Osmanthus, Indonesian Patchouli, Amber, Pink Sugar, Musk.

Disclaimer: Bottle of Vilhelm Parfumerie Chimilka was generously gifted to me by Twisted Lily where I am Head of Marketing Strategy & Communications. My opinions, as always, are my own.

Olya Bar, Editor

You can sample and purchase Chimilka Vilhelm Parfumerie at Twisted Lily and the entire Triptych collection here.

Please read Olya’s review of Vilhelm Parfumerie Fleur Burlesque here and Sparkling Jo here. Enjoy Ida’s thoughts on Basilico and Fellini here.

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