Michelyn’s and Ermano’s Top Ten Perfumes of 2024
In Part 1, Editor Ermano Picco and I began with an overview of the best perfumes as well as trends of 2024. Ermano lives in Milan, Italy and I live in New York City. We finally saw each other at Esxence in 2024, after five years. Often, I am asked is there a difference between how people from different countries judge perfumes? This year there are only two overlaps between us but as we continue with the teams of editors throughout the next few days, who hail from many countries, there are quite a few that made their respective top ten perfumes of 2024.
Ermano’s Top Ten of Perfumes of 2024
In the ever-evolving world of perfumery, 2024 has proven to be an interesting year where, among a plethora of derivative uninspired launches, creativity and artistry found their way through emerging talents pushing boundaries, and prominent perfumers still outdoing themselves with crafting fragrances as a proof perfumery can still be a true works of art. These perfumes do more than catch compliments and please crowds; they tell stories, evoke emotions, and reflect a deep interplay of culture, innovation, and craftsmanship.
That’s what I look for in my top ten perfumes of 2024, exceptional quality and flawless execution, but also the power to become a unique expressive medium. Let me unveil the artistic and high-quality perfumes launched this year that not only impressed me, but also spoke to my heart, making them an unforgettable olfactory experience. Join me as I delve (in alphabetical order) into my fragrant top ten of 2024.
Masque Milano Alcove (Karine Chevalier): Inspired by the tale of Bahram Gur visit to the sandalwood pavilion of Princess Yaghme, the daughter of the Emperor of China, Masque Milano’s Alcove is not just among the best releases of 2024, but for offering an olfactory journey in a fabled realm. Independent perfumer Karine Chevallier succeeded to elevate the matter of what fragrant dreams are made of, Mysore sandalwood, to a kaleidoscope of sensations where the nose spins around from the sparkling opening with fruity greenery from the pavilion garden, down to a sensuous spiral landing on the Princess alcove, feeling the almost human warmth of precious sandalwood, rose, and troubling vetiver. The sumptuous amber trail in the base is totally captivating, and although it doesn’t make Alcove smell like love, for sure it makes it a sandalwood perfume for the records. @masque milano @karine.chevalier
Estée Lauder Azurée Legacy (Anne Flipo): Disclaimer: I always had a soft spot for the original 1969 Azurée, not for specific links to any personal memory, but for the unmistakable Bertrand Chant signature that connects it to an era of subversive aesthetics, and gender fluidity ahead of the times. Part of the Legacy Collection, Azurée Legacy reimagined by perfumer Anne Flipo under the creative baton of Frédéric Malle strikes for its woody-green profile, so up to date to wear like an “emerald” ancestor of Malle’s Synthetic Nature. The intense aromatic floralcy of the heart with tarragon, jasmine and carnation makes it so deep and provocative still nowadays, to make it something for the records and sets it to be the best revival of 2024, making it one of my top ten perfumes of 2024.
Frassai Dormir al sol (Irina Burlakova): Slow perfumery for a slow living. This could be the perfect claim for Frassaï Dormir al Sol. Indeed, this fragrance sweeps you away to an ethereal coastal dreamscape where perfumer Irina Burlakova elevated sun-laden mimosa blossoms to a wellbeing golden pillow where you can snuggle and forget every toil. Opening with vibrant notes of peppery green citrus, Dormir al Sol magnifies the heart of mimosa with a dash of boozy vanilla and saffron that fade into a sweet tobacco bed inviting to relent and enjoy the beauty of simple (yet not banal) things in life like an exquisite perfume. @frassaï @natalia_outeda @perfumer.irina.burlakova
Jacques Fath Encens Copal (Jean-Christophe Hérault): The collaboration with master perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault already yielded the brand two exquisite fragrances like Jasmin de Toscane, and Vetiver Gris. The latest outcome Encens Copal though, really exceeded for its take on a classic note like incense, set vivid mediterranean colors. It’s white copal incense on a joyride from Mexico to the French Riviera, hurling down the citrus trees, rolling in mastic teardrops, and gathering iris flowers and fresh hazelnuts. Sacred yet glamorous, Encens Copal sparkling trail conveys Jacques Fath’s legendary “Joie de Vivre” through flawless balance. @jacquesfathparfums @jeanchristopheherault
Eau de Boujee Infleurno (Pia Long): I already knew Creative Studio Olfiction Limited founders Pia Long and Nick Gilbert, but it’s only earlier this year that I had the chance to smell their brand. One of the top ten perfumes of 2024, Infleurno not only bears a brilliant name, but it’s also a textbook example of creative coherence when it comes to perfume development. Inspired by the myth of Persephone rising from hell and blooming on earth, this amazing fruity floral renders the cruelest month with the crispness of magnolia smoothed by velvety apricot hues of osmanthus. Pia Long seems to enjoy heavenly spring for the climate, but to prefer hell for the company as the sulphur tart notes and burnt incense make the chypre baseline among the sexiest ones I have recently smelled, solidifying Infleurno among the year’s best releases this year and for both of us top ten perfumes of 2024. @boujeebougies @perfumer.pia @nickrgilbert
Cartier La Panthère Elixir (Mathilde Laurent): Crafted by Cartier’s in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent, La Panthère Élixir stands out as the best commercial release on the shelves, and surely best flanker of the eponymous successful fragrance launched ten years ago (it’s a tie with the Édition Soir). The restyle of the refillable bottle emphasizes now the panther’s head with more organic features, matching all the way Cartier’s iconic jewelry.
Oz Parfum Lilith – Sombre héroïne (Pierre Bénard Ségu): When a sublime inspirational imagery meets masterful craftsmanship in a daring olfactory shape a perfume lover can’t help but rejoice greatly. When the resulting fragrance is also housed in an exquisitely handcrafted porcelain flacon, the only word is gesamkunstwerk. This is the case of Lilith – Sombre Héroïne by Pierre Bénard Ségu, an emblematic tuberose interpretation perfectly balancing all the aspects of the mystery flower absolute: the sharp greens of minty cardamom, the dewy muguet crispness, the milky voluptuousness, as well as the ravaging trail of sensuous sandalwood. Its authentic, bold signature along with its undoubted refinement are the ultimate expression of the French savoir faire when it comes to indie perfumery, and on my top ten perfumes of 2024 for sure. @oz_parfums @osmoart
If you live in the New York Area, meet Pierre at The Fragrance Alliance Network February 15th, read more and buy your ticked here. -Michelyn
Hiram Green Philtre: Inspired by the legendary love story of Tristan and Isolde, independent natural perfumer Hiram Green launched in 2024 Philtre, which immediately won me over for the richest, multilayered rendition of carnation I have smelled in decades.. Opening with a peppery blast, it reveals a captivating floral and balmy explosion that’s totally awesome. @hiram_green
Le Jardin Retrouvé Violet Kew (Maxence Moutte): “Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance” – In 2024 I attended 3 international perfume shows, and smelled more than 500 new launches, but nothing like Le Jardin Retrouvé Violette Kew embodies at best these words of Coco Chanel. Crafted by perfumer Maxence Moutte, this optimistic field of violet flowers sings its charming classic melody orchestrated with deeper modern counterpoints. Effortlessly elegant, Violet Kew is something you long for when nothing seems to fit your bill, olfactory speaking. @lejardinretrouve @maxencemoutte
Tayshaba Cache Myrrhe: Mentored by Perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Ms. El Khalifa crafted her own brand Tayshaba pouring French savoir faire and her Sudanese heritage. Cache Myrrhe is the composition that struck me as the best example of this cultural encounter, for myrrh shines like a cabochon chatoyant gemstone glowing in crimson rose reflections set against the hypnotizing peach-chypre tiger eye grain. Blending classic perfumery and unconventional African hints, El Khalifa’s creations like Cache Myrrhe are so qualitative, multifaceted, and unique they gave me new hope that Artistic Perfumery’s not dead. @tayshaba.paris
Ermano Picco, Editor
In no particular order my top ten perfumes of 2024 (I have 13, a lucky number). –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Astrophil & Stella In Extremis (Meo Fusciuni): When I learned Meo Fusciuni was the nose, and that Caravaggio was the muse, my heart quickened. I was not disappointed; Astrophil & Stella In Extremis is the essence of the revolutionary painter made liquid. There is an intense realism, perhaps a bit unsettling at first that draws you in. Dark and light, a study in defiant chiaroscuro.
Badar Parfums Estelle (Margaux LE PAIH-GUÉRIN): The first launch from Badar Parfums, my best discovery of 2024, Estelle, is an example of a gourmand done right. Rich, resinous and luxurious with a stunning honeyed plum note, it smells uniquely modern yet with a touch of classic French perfumery.
The Different Company Red Burning Night (Marion Costero): Created by Brazilian perfumer Marion Costero of Givaudan, Red Burning Night is quite possibly the most sensual jasmine I have smelt in quite some time. Jasmine flowers bloom through the baked and dusty ground under a canopy of stars. @thedifferentcompany
Eau de Boujee Infleurno: Perfumer Pia Long and Creative Director Nick Gilbert bottle the myth of Persephone, the goddess of spring and Queen of the Underworld as she waves goodbye to Hades in this charred sulphuric fruity chypre. You will see Infleurno in a number of our editors top ten perfumes of 2024-Michelyn Camen @boujeebougies @perfumer.pia @nickrgilbert
Hiram Green Philtre: Our natural perfumer of 2024, Hiram Green has composed a modern day love potion is the most photorealistic carnation fragrance I have smelt, with a nod to Caron’s Belladogia, (although Hiram goes his own way). With a crisp dark clove-like bite this is what carnations were meant to smell like. I am under its spell. @hiram_green
Meo Fusciuni BUIO (Guiseppe Imprezzabile)
Everything is dark around the house.
I was little when I prayed to the Angels.
I was little when I believed in the sky.
I would like to cover everything with this darkness,
I would like to close my eyes and smell only its scent. -Meo Fusciuni
A great perfume must tell a story that is authentic and resonates with the wearer. In BUIO (dark or darkness in Italian) Guiseppe Imprezzabile, (my perfumer of the year) gives us a glimpse into his soul as he battles the darkness that surrounds him. BUIO is indeed a dark perfume, it challenged me with its inky dark notes of cade, Frankincense and then transformed slowly into the equivalent of olfactive hope; the warmth of amber and labdanum is like a shaft of sun through the starless night. We have all battled despair in our lives, and BUIO reminds us we must embrace it before you see the light. @meofusciuni
Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur Pavlova (Patricia de Nicolaï): Pavlova is an elegant and impressive olfactive dessert that elevates the gourmand category into haute Parfumerie. Madame de Nicolai has created a luscious, yet airy fruity delight, that winks at the renowned ballerina Anna Pavlova, which some sources credit for the cake’s name. En Pointe, Madame.
Voyage Imaginaires Comme Un Gant (Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal): There is something to be said about a perfume that you wear each night before going to sleep. Sandalwood, vanilla, and coconut create a soft aura, an olfactive pillow, that quietly sings a soothing song on my skin, lulling me into slumber. Serenity in a bottle; brought to us by two of the most revered women in perfumery.
Marc-Antoine Barrois Tilia (Quentin Bisch): In a year of outstanding florals, Tilia shined like the star in the brand’s imaginary constellation. Tilleul is the French word for Linden Blossom, and here it is intoxicating and softly sensual in the best possible way, surrounded by jasmine and seductive woods. Where I grew up, the streets were lined with linden blossom trees. I remember as a young girl, my dad taking me out at dusk as the sun was setting and lifting me to smell them. I remember almost fainting from pleasure as the air was filled with their heady aroma, and a hint of the bark clung to my fingers long after. That is the magic of perfume, to instantly recreate a scent memory in a single spray. @marcantoinebarrois @quentinbischperfumer
Sarah Baker Peach’s Revenge (Chris Maurice): In an orchard of peach perfumes this year, Peach’s Revenge was a real standout. Is she juicy? Yes, but she’s also a little tipsy from the amaretto she’s been drinking. Peach’s Revenge has an old Hollywood glamour vibe reminding me of Jean Harlow, silky and curvy, but with sharp nails of amber and a bad-girl edge. @houseofsarahbaker @cdlaniche
MATIERE PREMIERE Santal Austral EXTRAIT(Aurelien Guichard): I referred to the many extraits that were released in 2024, some of the best were from MATIERE PREMIERE and it was difficult to choose just one to feature in my top ten perfumes of 2024. I chose Santal Austral Extrait as it seamlessly brought together two dualities; silky white woods with the hero ingredient Black Cardamom Absolute from Nepal (which is unique to MATIERE PREMIERE). Sandalwood is known for it calming effects, but Santal Austral Extrait is sexy and ready for an evening out.
Essential Parfums Neroli Botanica (Ann Flipo): In the masterful hands of Ann Flipo, Neroli Botanica brings me summer all year long. More floral, than citrus, this genderless fragrance is a new spin on orange blossom; lush, green, solar and woody. It is one of the best orange blossom fragrances I have ever smelt, with exceptional longevity. Neroli Botanica (the 10th for Essential Parfums) takes me to a warm, happy place with each spray. @essential. parfums @annflipoperfumer
Kajal Äican (Huseyin Erdogmus, Ozge Erdogmus Altinel and Gokhan Simsek EPS Fragrances): As I wrote in Part 1, “Äican, pronounced “I can” is an Arabic term representing gold that has been purified of all imperfections. A piece can be hidden beneath layers of earth and stone, yet even through the darkness, its radiance is not lessened.” This is very much how Kajal Äican unfolds, in layers. Opening with tropical fruit blended seamlessly, so that there’s no need to pick out each note. The next layer uncovers a spicy and dramatic complexity that reveals hints of gold in the ginger at the heart. As we near the drydown, more gold brilliance shines in amber and tawny vanilla. Äican is one of my top ten perfumes of the year because of its radiance and the confidence I feel wearing it. @kajalperfumes @epsfragrances
For our top ten perfumes of 2024 Giveaways
Thanks to the generosity of Kajal Perfumes and Moe Khalaf we have a100 ml bottle of Kajal ÄICAN for one registered reader in the USA, EU, UK. You must be a registered ÇaFleureBon reader.
Thanks to the largesse of Frassaï, we have a draw for a registered reader in the USA for a 50 ml bottle of Frassaï Dormir al Sol. In the USA only. for one registered reader in the USA, EU, UK. You must be a registered ÇaFleureBon reader.
Jacques Fath is graciously offering a bottle of Encens Copal for one registered reader in the USA, EU, UK. You must be a registered ÇaFleureBon reader.
Let us know what you think of our Top Perfumes of 2024. What sparked your interest? What do you want to try or have tried, where you live and which you would like to win. Please leave a quality comment. Draw closes 12/30/2024
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Now that’s a wrap for Ermano and me. We hope you enjoyed our top ten perfumes of 2024 (plus) and Best Fragrances of 2024. Remember there are draws you can enter for Badar Parfums Estelle and Hiram Green Philtre here. Tomorrow, we pass the scent baton to Ida and to Nicoleta.
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