Top 10 Fragrances 2024 Ida and Nicoleta

When December rolls around, we at ÇaFleureBon list our top 10 fragrances for the year. It is never a simple assignment nor one to be taken lightly, as each year the burgeoning list of releases begs belief. Last year I cited > 3,837 recorded perfumes; this year, I couldn’t bring myself to attempt to quantify them. Those of us who write about the perfumed world can never smell all these fragrances – and with some exceptions, our travels abroad in order to cover major events are not subsidized. We writers pay our own way to discover what is new and exciting, and it gives us great pleasure to be able to share them with you all, as I do here with my top 10 fragrances 2024.

Top 10 Fragrances 2024

I wish that I could pay homage to so many gifted perfumers, and I sincerely hope that no one feels neglected (that’s my worst nightmare). Please know that you are seen and appreciated; our many reviews of your work are a living testament to your talent. What trends did I observe in 2024? Some remain the same: gourmands are here to stay; vanilla perfumes are legion; oud is a given. Power fragrances (aka beast mode) continue to be extremely popular; flankers and dupes are ever-present. This year, orange blossom was a beloved trend; so were horse-inspired leather scents. Perfumery often resembles fashion, and replication/reinvention/reiteration is everywhere. You’ve undoubtedly already noticed that some years it’s all about rose, or violet, or resins, incense, etc.

What is growing in a wildly exponential manner is the fragrance venue. Even the smaller gatherings which were once rather intimate have expanded in a most remarkable manner, some to the point where they have become unrecognizable. I honestly don’t know how long the market will be able to sustain such growth, or so many brands – but at least, it is very exciting from a consumer’s point of view. There certainly exists plenty of choice.  I have listed my top 10 fragrances 2024 alphabetically – because it feels the fairest way. –Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Top 10 Fragrances 2024 Ida

Christèle Jacquemin Celebration (Christèle Jacquemin):Christèle Jacquemin’s Celebration was one of the first fragrances I smelt at last March’s Esxence, and I waited many months for my own flacon to become available. The perfumer’s homage to her native Avignon resonated with me immediately, summoning the venerable Palais des Papes with its glorious tendrils of precious incense, honey and beeswax. Wisps of cocoa, elderflower, and a skillfully employed scintilla of galbanum polish Celebration so that it glows with a radiance from within. @christelejacquemin

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Epona (Liz Moores):Artisanal perfumer Liz Moores is well-known for her deep affinity for myth and legend, as well as her lifelong love of horses. Epona was yet another superb fragrance that was still in production when I received my sample, and therefore I waited impatiently for permission to review it. Saddle/barnyard/equine leather fragrances have been popular for many years, but this year they struck a particular tone with the perfume-loving public. While others are marvelous, Liz knocked it out of the ballpark with her beautiful ratios of fine materials and tender, haunting ability to render the animalic lyrical.@papillonartisanperfumes

Olivier Durbano Gushing Water Stone 20 (Olivier Durbano):Composing in aromatic essence and stone is a devotional practice for Grasseois perfumer Olivier Durbano – and each of his perfumes is permeated with a lightness of being and sacred intention. His most recent fragrance is a fountainhead of fragrant hope adorned with balsams, resins, herbs and sylvan whispers. Faintly floral and robustly seasoned, it appears as an incense delicacy from a reimagined ecclesiastical cookery. @olivierdurbano

Eau de Boujee Infleurno (Pia Long):Ah, Persephone! Wed to Hades, she spends half the year above the Earth’s crust with her mother Ceres, and the other half below with the Lord of the Underworld. Perfumer Pia Long has conjured a marvelous perfume filled with the sort of dynamic contrasts and tension which results in a fascinatingly witchy fragrance that defies categorization. I loved it from the moment I committed it to flesh. We delight in the sulfurous, the charred, the white flower/osmanthus, abundantly citrus-hued perverse potion riddled with subversive elements – animalic passionfruit and black currant. Vetiver, labdanum and oakmoss provide us with an abundance of depth. Infleurno has become my Boujee favorite, in all its naughty playfulness. So far, it has been one of the top 10 fragrances for quite a few of my colleagues.  @eau_de_boujee @perfumer.pia @nickrgilbert

La Grange du Parfumeur Jasmin à l’Aube (Alexandra Bachand): For as long as I can recall, jasmine has never had a bad year. Its irresistible charm, not unlike the rose – seems to embellish everything it touches, whether it assumes the form of a fluffy cloud of creamy, less indolic luminosity or appears as a white flower femme fatale, trailing seduction in its wake. There’s a good reason why Alexandra Bachand’s Jasmin à l’Aube won the gold this year in the Top Artisan Fragrance Awards: it presents a fully-fleshed portrait of the dewy, spicy floralcy of the queen of flowers at daybreak – fecund and moist, glistening amidst burgeoning rays of light which precede the unveiling of the coming day.This is a very natural-smelling, photorealistic aromatic pleasure. @lagrangeduparfumeur

My next selection for my top 10 fragrances 2024 is a tie between two enchanting natural perfumes: Parfumeurs du Monde Les Fleurs de la Pluie (Thierry Bernard) and Aftelier Sacré Bleu (Mandy Aftel).

Parfumeurs du Monde Les Fleurs de la Pluie (Thierry Bernard): “The world laughs in flowers”, asserted Ralph Waldo Emerson – and were he here, he might well have been referring to natural perfumer/adventurer Thierry Bernard’s portrait of the Sharaan desert the morning after torrential rains. He awakened to the sight of fragile, ephemeral blooms filling the air with their intoxicating scent. From bountiful citruses to plush herbal floralcy and a cushion of woods and resin, the fullness of botanical elegance and warmth surrounds the wearer in talismanic fashion. @parfumeurs_du_monde @thierry.bernard.7

Aftelier Sacré Bleu (Mandy Aftel): Sacré Bleu is an homage to the legendary and rare blue lotus, which is associated with enlightenment and purity because it emerges unsullied from muddy waters, mirroring the human soul’s journey toward spiritual consciousness. True to Mandy’s magnificent minimalism, she presses extraordinary aromatic materials to yield up their singular qualities as they meld into a more complex whole. Sacré Bleu incorporates 100-year-old sandalwood, fruity boronia, true ambergris with black tea and mimosa: the effect is startling, and catches you by surprise. What initially appears somewhat dissonant soon takes on a rainbow of possibility and mesmerizes you which is why I listed it in my top 10 fragrances 2024. @aftelierperfume

AZMAN Naked Forest (Prin Lomros):The strong South Asian presence in Naked Forest is undeniable: there is not one single olfactory gem in this perfume which doesn’t flourish in those environs which both Husen Baba and Prin Lomros call home. The misted mountains, saline air, and verdant forests are equally represented while remaining shrouded in mystery. I was profoundly moved when I applied my sample to flesh. It changes form, develops with prismatic accuracy, and smells completely realistic and comforting. There are so many facets that one can never perceive them all in a single application – which I find to be ideal. If you love the twists and turns of a journey well spent, Naked Forest is one to try. @husen.baba @AZMAN_perfumes @prinlomros

Parfums Dusita Pelagos (Pissara Umavijani): It was love at first sniff for me (and I would never describe myself as a fan of aquatic perfumes) – so my initial rendezvous with Pelagos was nothing short of bouleversant.  The perfume is an immersive adventure, imbued with a sense of reverential awe for the beauty of a natural landscape where sea, sky, and the hulls of ancient ships inhabit collective memory. Matchless herbal floralcy forms a tapestry with balsamic, woody, and resinous tones – and recalls the Greek poet Cafavy: “Let me stop here. Let me, too, look at nature awhile. The brilliant blue of the morning sea, of the cloudless sky.” @parfumsdusita @ploiuma@parfumsdusitaparis

Hiram Green TRYST (Hiram Green): Orange blossom is having its moment in the sun in 2024 – and Hiram Green’s TRYST is a shining example of this beloved blossom. It’s a a joyous estival romp through the countryside, and no mistake: the glory of high summer and the openhearted sensuality which accompanies it. TRYST is intoxicating, solar, and pollen-rich: a lyrical mélange which employs every facet the orange tree has to offer, drenched in sun-warmed honey and resin. We are reminded that plants manifest their own sex lives; that honey and beeswax enliven the animalic undertow of white blossoms, playing upon their intrinsically seductive qualities all the while. @hiram_green

Le Jardin Retrouvé Violette Kew (Maxence Moutte): What was the first thing I did when I returned from Milan last March? I pre-ordered a large flacon of Violette Kew. No hesitation. No regrets. I had received a small sample bottle and was terrified that I might use it all up; what does that tell you This exquisitely elegant and carnal violet was my version of Homer’s “Elysian plain… where life is easiest for men. No snow is there, nor ever rain.” Violette Kew marries a thoroughly contemporary context with a Belle Époque sensibility and artistry. Crisply verdant violet leaf is embellished with radiant variations on iris/violet, then dusted with a sprinkling of cardamom, cumin, sandalwood and ambergris. Perfection, pure and simple. @lejardinretrouve

photo courtesy of Ugo

Top 10 Fragrances 2024 The most unusual concept fragrance: UMEMA (Ugo Charron of MANE and Emmanuelle Dancourt), a perfume created for(and with) an anosmic client. @ugoartperfume @mane_1871_  @emmadancourt

Best book: American Legends by Michael Edwards (The Evolution of American Fragrances): A priceless compendium of American classic perfumery, replete with personal vignettes and insider insights from the Master. @fragrancesoftheworld  @michael _edwards_official

 Top 10 Fragrances 2024 Hardest Working Perfumer: A tie between Hez Binkowitz of Hez Parfums and Darren Alan of Darren Alan Perfumes

It seems that these gentlemen never rest – and their work is proof positive of their industry and ingenuity. @hezparfums @darren_alan_perfumes

Top 10 Fragrances 2024 Perfume Hall of Fame, Most Prolific Perfumer: Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Honestly, have you perused Dawn’s inventory of available fragrances recently? Not only is there an inconceivable number of choices; there’s not a clunker in the bunch. This woman never sleeps.@dshperfumes

–Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Top 10 Fragrances 2024 Nicoleta

Over the past recent years, my perfumista journey has not only mirrored my personal growth but has also been shaped by the shifting tides of the (fragrance) world. 2020 and 2021 were all about comfort amidst chaos. With stress levels high, I found myself drawn (for the first time in my life) to gourmand scents – sweet, indulgent fragrances that helped me erase the stress of the pandemic years. 2022 brought a shift in my perspective – and from focusing solely on my emotional response as a consumer to exploring the broader landscape of scent with a fresh perspective and a deeper insight. 2023 felt like a renaissance that continued into this year, which is reflected in my top 10 fragrances 2024 and it remains so thrilling to watch the perfume industry evolve so rapidly, constantly adapting and reinventing itself.-Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor

In alphabetical order, my Top 10 Fragrances 2024

Parfums Dusita Pelagos (Pissara Umavijani): Pelagos (translated as sea) starts off-dry, herbal and aromatic, then salty and cold as the sea, earthy nostalgic yet empowering – a blue glass dome constructed in a brutalist architecture, where emotions reverb, theatrical and epically amplified. A deep-blue healing and making new scars type of mana potion for my roleplaying soul. As always, Pissara’s perfumes are an emotion-filled rides – and Pelagos is no exception. @ploiuma @parfumsdusita

Gallivant Nida (Soïzic Beaucourt) is a summer fragrance that veers away from sandy beaches, white florals, and the carefully curated opulence of exotic resorts. It leads us on a less traveled path, with nature, water, blue skies, and a soul-cleansing vibe of a place filled with real, authentic, and simple joys. An herbal-tea-infused-purple-iris- amber- scented spell that is completely genderless and perfectly balanced between the spicy, woody, herbal, and floral facets. @GALLIVANT.stories @soizic.beaucourt.perfumer 

Manos Gerakinis Parfums Imperial Malt (Ioanna Tanionou): This is the feeling of autumn – sublimated in a rich golden potion. A warm and deeply gratifying mixture of boozy elements and gourmand facets, painted on the backdrop of a smoky-woody-dark ambiance. Decadent comfort, cozy warmth, and hedonistic pleasure – uncomplicated yet oh-so-complex. A must try!  @manosgerakinisparfums @ioanna.tan 

Marc-Antoine Barrois TILIA (Quentin Bisch): “In the midst of winter, I found there was, within me, an invincible summer. And that makes me happy. For it says that no matter how hard the world pushes against me, within me, there’s something stronger – something better, pushing right back.” Tilia is the scent of an eternal summer -so natural, so light, so alive. Feels like the sun-dappled afternoons under the shade of linden trees, outside of time – a luminous ode to the gentle beauty of life, optimism, and endless carefree days.  @marcantoinebarrois @quentinbischperfumer

Meo Fusciuni BUIO (Giuseppe Imprezzabile): Where there is too much light, shadows grow deep. If I were to compare Meo Fusciuni’s perfumes to metal genres, Buio, the latest release, is undoubtedly black metal. With smoky riffs of incense and the raw growl of cade, the opening creates a wall of (sound) scent that feels like the intro to I Am the Black Wizards by Emperor – and I’m instantly, transported back to 2006, to the Wacken Open Air live performance. A must try for lovers of darkness (of all kinds). @meofusciuni_parfums

MMicallef – Ma Nature (Marc Daniel Heimgartner): a grounding yet revitalizing embrace, with a dark-sweet charm that carries a sense of comforting eeriness-like a Tim Burton film set in an oversaturated sepia dream. Just imagine patchouli leaves morphed into the crisp crunch of autumn underfoot, before melting into the sweetness of wild honey – and you’ll get the “Ma Nature” feeling. @parfumsmicallef @fragilefluid

L’Orchestre Parfum Mono Cachemire (Nathalie Feisthauer): This smells exactly like listening to lo-fi music makes me feel, and I can’t think of a better name than Mono Cachemire, as wearing this is like wrapping yourself in the most luxurious and soft shawl. Nathalie has woven a low-tempo spell built around ambrettolide, one of her favorite materials, a soft, refined, and second-skin effect ingredient – for a luminous modern olfactive profile with a timeless feel. @lorchestreparfum @nathaliefeisthauer

Olibanum Neroli (Céline Perdriel): We have the best of both worlds: the complex, spicy spirit of neroli mixed with the irresistible sweet and solar orange blossom. Add to that the sparkling opening of fizzy bergamot, the honeyed roundness of Jasmin, the fluffy facets of musk, and just enough incense to keep things grounded and interesting – and you have the recipe for a fantastic summer scent. @olibanum.parfum @celine.perdriel.perfumer @gerald_ghislain

Ormonde Jayne Vanille des Afriques Intensivo (Geza Schöen): Poised, relaxed, smooth as silk, and comfortable as linen, this is a vanilla that dances – in true Ormonde Jayne style – only to the beat of its own drum. Inspired by the serenity of an African sunset, it melts all the colors of the sky at dusk with the sensory richness of the beloved continent into a multifaceted grownup vanilla. Quiet, contemplative, deep and luxurious. A must try for any vanilla lover. @ormondejayne

Sarah Baker Peach’s Revenge (Chris Maurice): From the fuzz of the peach, to the fleshy softness of the skin-like-nectarines and from the tingling powdery tanginess to the creamy lush and silky curves – Peach’s Revenge is the perfume equivalent of cute aggression – it’s so ripe, so bouncy, so juicy, so delicious that you feel the need to bite into it. Or at least slap it 😛 @houseofsarahbaker @cdlaniche

 Top 10 Fragrances 2024 Perfumer of the Year: Marc Daniel Heimgartner, Senior Perfumer LUZI AG

This year, the fragrance that truly captivated me and spoke to me, on many levels, was M. Micallef’s Ma Nature. Upon discovering it, I immediately started to look for other works of its creator, Marc Daniel Heimgartner, only to realize I was already familiar with his craftsmanship through Kajal’s Masala from the previous year. Heimgartner’s eclectic and intuitive approach to perfumery is evident in this creation, as he seamlessly blends diverse influences to craft a scent that is mystical and evocative. I am stalking @fragilefluid and putting all his new releases on my “must-try” list. @Luzi.official

Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor

For our Top 10 Fragrances 2024 giveaways

via the brand

Thanks to the generosity of the Pissara Umavijani, we have a 50ml  flacon of Parfums Dusita Pelagos for one registered reader in the EU, Canada, UK and USA. You must register or your entry will not count.

We are EXTREMELY grateful to Ann from Indigo Perfumery who is offering 100 ml of Eau de Boujee Infleurno to a one registered reader in the USA only

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @idameister @nicoleta.tomsa

Let us know what you think of Ida’s and Nicoleta’s Top 10 fragrances s of 2024. What sparked your interest? What do you want to try or have tried, where do you live and which you would like to win. Please leave a quality comment. Draw closes 12/30/2024

Remember there are draws you can enter from Michelyn’s and Ermano’s top 10 fragrances 2024: for Badar Parfums Estelle and Hiram Green Philtre here. Kajal Perfumes Äican, Frassaï  Dormir Al Sol and Jacques Fath Encens Copal here

Next up is J Wearescentient and Danu.

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