Despina Veneti and Rachel Watson choose their respective 10 Best Perfumes of 2021

Continuing now with Sr. Editor Despina Veneti and Contributor Rachel Watson, we hope that you are enjoying team CaFleureBon’s best perfumes of 2021. Despina lives in Paris and Rachel in Connecticut but called Dubai home for a decade. Here are their respective ten Best Perfumes of 2021 -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Ten Best Perfumes of 2021

I’m happy to present today my best perfumes of 2021 in the company of ÇaFleureBon newest contributor, Rachel Watson. It’s been an interesting year perfume-wise, although Brexit, and much stricter customs controls in France, prevented me from testing as many fragrances as I would have liked (especially from USA and UK-based brands). With that – and my self-imposed rule of not including more than one fragrance per brand or per perfumer in my final list – taken into account, these are my ten best perfumes of 2021, discussed in alphabetical order:

Amouage Epic Woman 56 (Cécile Zarokian): Under the creative direction of Renaud Salmon, it’s been a year filled with exciting launches for the House of Amouage. Among their six fragrances of 2021 that I sampled, I had a hard time singling out just one; after much deliberation, my final choice was Cécile Zarokian’s Amouage Epic 56 from the “Exceptional Extraits” collection. For this mesmerizing – concentrated at 56% – extrait de parfum, Mme Zarokian used the original Epic Woman EdP (which she co-created) as her inspirational starting point, only to ultimately depart from it for a new olfactory journey. Substituting the damask rose with rose centifolia, and adding depth, smoothness and complexity that one just doesn’t take for granted in contemporary fragrance releases, the perfumer signed a softly tenebrous perfume, caressing like velvet: a sensuous, remarkably gender-fluid rose surrounded by a plethora of warm spices, jasmine tea, dry amber and precious woods, finished with Amouage’s signature frankincense.

Anatole Lebreton Racine Carrée (Anatole Lebreton): A thoughtful study on rhizomes that doesn’t feel like a conceptual olfactive experiment but like an absolutely enjoyable thing to wear, Anatole Lebreton’s Racine Carrée starts off strikingly earthy and rooty (with prominent orris butter, carrot and celery seed), before it transforms into an astonishing showcase for a green, stalky, crunchy Haitian vetiver, rich in lemony tones and smoky nuances. The addition of chamomile and clary sage enhance the prairie-like aura, completing the joyous aromatic experience. Few fragrances have surprised me as much, let alone captivated me, with their on-skin evolution during the last years. The distinctly modern character of Racine Carrée could be indicating a new creative phase for Mr Lebreton, who has – up to now – been composing fragrances that were rather vintage-style, albeit consistently inventive and refreshingly unusual.

Maison Violet Compliment (Nathalie Lorson): In a year when many of us sought for sheer, uncomplicated joy even in our fragrance choices, there came this gentle, euphoric creation that urged us to be kind to others, and to ourselves, by indulging in its graceful bouquet. Nathalie Lorson composed a floral ballad built around a spicy, buttery tuberose and a bright, intoxicating jasmine, accompanied by exotic ylang-ylang and sun-warmed orange blossom, with green (eucalyptus, violet leaf) and dewy (freesia, palmarosa) accents. With a softly balsamic base of hay, benzoin and vanilla lovingly supporting the bouquet, Compliment insists on its playful tuberose/jasmine dance until its drydown. The aesthetic pleasure of this fragrance isn’t the only reason I find it so deeply appealing – its emotional certainty and dependable comfort feel almost cathartic.

Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 Extrait (Quentin Bisch): The already delightful olfactive “DNA” of the original B683 EdP entered the realm of profound pleasure with this 40% extrait version, realized once more by Quentin Bisch. Going much deeper than simply increasing the concentration, the B683 Extrait is a marvel of tastefully displayed richness, totally devoid of exhibitionism: its undeniable grandeur is an aesthetic choice whose purpose is not to flaunt opulence, but to fully satisfy as a piece of wearable art. A green, spiced apple meets a verdant, ozonic violet leaf; together they enter the base’s suave woods, where a multi-nuanced (polished but not devoid of animalic undertones) Laotian oud is reigning supreme, surrounded by loyal companions: lactonic sandalwood, leathery patchouli, sensuous vanilla and a cornucopia of electrifying spices. Simply bewitching on both men and women, B683 Extrait offers a sumptuous, golden perfume experience.

Masque Milano Lost Alice (Mackenzie Reilly): Admirably balancing several accords (floral, tea, gourmand), each one beautiful on its own merit, the young American perfumer Mackenzie Reilly composed a pure delight of a fragrance: all the basic elements of the “Mad Tea-Party” from “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” are featured in the composition’s olfactory narrative; once blended together, however, none of them (not even the delicious carrot cake accord) manifests itself as too literal or antagonistic to the others. Playfulness and sophistication go hand-in-hand in Lost Alice, just like its literary source of inspiration has been captivating for more than 150 years children and adults alike, with both its apparent fairy-tale level and its more mature undertones. This innovative gourmand of poise, moderation and immaculate blending graciously delivers much more than the sum of its accords.

Matière Première Falcon Leather (Aurélien Guichard): Essentially released worldwide during 2021 (after being exclusively available at Harrods for more than a year), Falcon Leather is a veritable showcase of Aurélien Guichard’s talent, as well as my favorite leather-centered fragrance of a year blessed with several good ones. The perfumer created a deeply gratifying, highly textured leather accord that evokes both the rough and the smooth side of falconry gloves, based on a top-quality natural raw material: a phenolic, almost wild, birch tar from Finland. Furthermore, the fragrance is a case study for accomplishing harmonious contrasts and fascinating evolution on skin; the initial combination of robust, virile leather and smoky, mystical woods transforms into buttery, soft suede and deliciously sensual, spicy amber. Its androgynous beauty initially challenged me, before I fell totally under its spell.

Milano Fragranze Basilica (Violaine Collas): My favorite new Perfume House launch of 2021, Milano Fragranze mightily impressed me with an inaugural collection of eight consistently enjoyable, interesting and well-crafted fragrances, each one inspired by a different location of Milan. At least three of the scents became personal favorites, yet it was Basilica that emerged as my top choice. Violaine Collas’s interpretation of a majestic Cathedral’s ambiance was enthralling: built around a gentle frankincense, ornamented by purifying herbs and sacred woods, smoky and resinous notes, along with an unexpected lactonic undercurrent, Basilica conveys a striking olfactive impression of an old church’s ceremonial incense and soft candlelight atmosphere, along with a touch of its wooden and stone construction, while still displaying fresh and aromatic qualities. The fragrance channels spirituality, while fully acknowledging the mortal need to please the senses.

Parfums Dusita Anamcara (Pissara Umavijani): My usual rule of selecting only one fragrance per brand, and per perfumer, in my annual top-10 was especially difficult to follow this year. This is frankly the only reason why Parfums Dusita Cavatina – Pissara Umavijani’s outstanding, gender-fluid interpretation of the ever-elusive lily-of-the-valley – isn’t included here. But then again, it was impossible not to choose her Anamcara, this soulful fragrance that was born to celebrate friendship with a heart-warming, affecting combination of fruity tea, white flowers and dreamy woods, under the comforting energy of Madagascar vanilla. Just like Cavatina brought me a sense of spring hope all year-round, Anamcara unfailingly provided me with solace, optimism and utter joy even at the darkest of times. Perfectly reflecting the essence of its creator’s personality, this stunning fragrance radiates kindness, humanism and generosity of spirit.

Puredistance No.12 (Nathalie Feisthauer): Marking the completion of the first creative circle for the Netherlands-based House of Puredistance, this appropriately celebratory, special creation by Nathalie Feisthauer presented an unexpected, yet meaningful, olfactive interpretation of blue: the color is aptly reflected in the perfume’s serene self-confidence and cool, classical beauty, further embellished by golden gleams of understated opulence. With an opening as sparkling as a champagne cocktail, a lavish bouquet of rose, narcissus, orange blossom, jasmine and ylang-ylang, an enchanting halo of boudoir-like powderiness and gentle spices, as well as a chypre-toned base of elegant woods and sensual muskiness, No.12 gleams, sparkles and dazzles with the allure of a timeless, grand perfume.

Shalini Fleur Japonais (Maurice Roucel) Working, as ever, with Maurice Roucel, Shalini presented two creations in 2021. I enjoyed the superbly spiced vanilla/tiare duo of Vanille Rêve, but it was Fleur Japonais that emerged as a top-favorite due to its exceptional delicacy, originality and crystal-clear olfactive message. Mr Roucel interpreted the sakura fascinatingly, pairing its transparent, dainty floralcy with sturdier, lusher magnolia; in the end, the cherry blossom’s gentle “voice” wasn’t altered, just amplified. This was a great idea both aesthetically and conceptually, since in Japan the Sakura is a symbol of renewal and the fleetingness of life, further signifying the short but colorful life of a Samurai. That duality of strength and sensitivity is wonderfully expressed in Fleur Japonais. Aided by the spiritual aura of Japanese-style incense, sandalwood and labdanum, this is a perfume of healing, serene energy and ethereal beauty that’s touching in its purity.

– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor

As a long time, reader of ÇaFleureBon, and a new contributor, I have always looked forward to reading the “Best of” lists each year.  Little did I know how difficult it would be to narrow my own to my  ten  best perfumes of 2021 even when it was not always easy to get my nose on them.  Without any further ado, in no particular order:

Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur (Manuel Cross): I have been a longtime admirer of Mr. Cross’ take on perfumery. Not afraid to break the rules, he brings us some of the best retro style scents I would normally have to hunt down as vintage bottles on the internet.  Vetifleur appeals to me because of the bright burst of green citrus that follows the best French classic chypres by blending a floral bouquet with hints of animalic muskiness and moss.  Thank you, Mr. Cross, for keeping this classic style of perfumes alive and accessible to all!

Shawn Maher Benton Park for American Perfumer (Shawn Maher): I greatly admire both Dave Kern, proprietor of American Perfumer, and Shawn Maher, perfumer and creator of Chatillon Lux & Maher Olfactive, for their dedication to and promotion of independent perfumery. I have followed Shawn’s work ever since the gorgeous Weinstrasse and I have always enjoyed the creations that are commissioned by Dave Kern as special limited editions for his shop.  When I first smelled Benton Park I was not sure I would love it because of the initial blast of minty green but, sort of like how it takes time to appreciate the overdose of minty tuberose found in Serge Luten’s famous Tubereuse Criminelle, I found myself coming back again and again to get another whiff the mysterious green mint mixed with woods and some hints of powder.  Benton Park is another unique creation by Mr. Maher and while full bottles are sold out, you can still order samples from American Perfumer and hope that another batch will be released.

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Spell 125 (Liz Moores): A new release from Papillon is not something that happens often so, you know when Ms. Moores announced a the release of Spell 125 and that it would include some of my favorite notes such as frankincense. pine and hemlock I didn’t hesitate to order a bottle.  I think it was my time spent in the Middle East where burning frankincense was a common occurrence that made me truly appreciate the different variations and facets of this note.  What Ms. Moores is able to do with what could have been an overwhelmingly medicinal scent by tempering it with soothing cool and fresh citrusy pine truly makes this a meditative, calming scent and one that proves again, that in the right hands, all-natural does not mean linear or short-lived.

Amouage Silver Oud (Cecile Zarokian): I admit that there is rarely a release that I ignore from Amouage but, I almost skipped this one because I didn’t think I needed another oud scent in my collection.  Fortunately, I was gifted a bottle from my mother for my birthday and was very surprised to find out how “not-oudy” this one is to my nose.  I certainly appreciate a true oud (see my recent review of RealOud 2021) but, I don’t often chose it to wear.  Silver Oud is one I reach for often thanks to some key similarities to my all-time favorite Amouage scent, Interlude Man.  I love the herbal green resins right at the top mixed with a rich, dense woodiness and warm vanilla.  Ms. Zarokian has done it once again for Amouage, another masterpiece!

Naomi Goodsir Corpus Equus (Bertrand Duchaufour): Mr. Duchaufour’s second creation for this house is one that I expected to love and did right from the first wearing. I adore the entire line and as soon as I knew this was a leather scent with a horse background, I was hooked.  Cartier’s L’Heure Fougueuse IV always reminded me of horses and a barn full of hay.  Corpus Equus is the actual horse after a long ride and the smell of the warmed leather saddle mixed with the sweat from the animal itself.  This might not appeal to everyone but, to me it is the perfect leather scent!

Pekji Flesh (Ömer İpekç): I am a little late discovering this Turkish independent brand but once I tried and fell in love with many of his early releases, I immediately ordered a sample set from his newest 2021 additions.  Of the four scents, Flesh is the one that called to me despite my initial skepticism that it would be too soft for my taste.  Not one to shy away from the most intense fragrances, there are times I need something more comforting and subtle.  This is no disappearing skin scent though, the apricot, Osmanthus, iris and sandalwood combine to give you a fuzzy, slightly fruity and at the same time, earthy aroma.  It is feminine without being coy or sweet and I dare say, retro-vintage.  Very suitable for day wear or whenever you want a warm scented hug.

Tauer Sundowner (Andy Tauer): Another perfumer whose work I will not hesitate to blindly buy is Andy Tauer. As soon as I saw that this creation included cacao and tobacco and was based on a sunset on the Nile, I was sold.  This is a classic “Tauresque” fragrance which, long-time afficiandos will instantly recognize.  Right from the top you get a rich spiciness joined swiftly by the tobacco and dusty cacao.  It brought me straight back to evenings I spent in Cairo and Luxor smoking shisha (hookah) and enjoying the cool breeze off the water.

Zoologist Chipmunk (Pia Long): Victor Wong continues to put out some of the best fragrances in the market and this year it is Chipmunk that really caught my attention.  I do not consider this to be one of the more “difficult” scents in the Zoologist line up but more like the Pumpkin Spice Latte of the collection.  The spicy nuttiness mixed with soft woods evokes a perfect habitat for this adorable chipmunk.  Cozy and comforting just like the first sip of a favorite fall beverage.

Maison Tahite, Vicious Cacao (Luca Maffei): I somehow missed the first line from this house (Vanilla) but when I was sent samples of this one and Cacao2 by Indigo Perfumery in their monthly subscription sample set, I knew I should go back and explore the entire collection.  While I loved the realistic chocolate of Cacao2 followed by a boozy, smoky amber, it was the less in your face chocolate of Vicious Cacao that won me over.  I adore the combination of dusty cacao with indolic florals.  A retro vintage elegant scent that is perfect for a cold winter day.

Patchouli for Scent Trunk  (Persephenie):E very month I look forward to the new fragrance curated by Scent Trunk and created by an independent artisanal perfumer. They may not all be my favorites but, I have yet to smell one that I hated.  This late entry (released this December) by Persephenie surprised me by being a patchouli scent that I love to wear.  It does start as sort of dank and earthy like the rainforest floor of Indonesia where this patchouli is from but slowly the sun breaks through to dry things out a little and you are left with a pleasant dirt almost as if you have been working in your springtime garden.  I look forward to wearing this more during the cool fresh spring months.

Special Mentions to my list of  best perfumes of 2021:  Amouage Epic Woman 56, Honour 43 and Reflection 46 all from the Exceptional Extraits collection.  Wild Summer Crush by April Aromatics  Gong by January Scent Project, Nappa Noir by Six Scents – Serpentine by Exaltatum. Egila Vaitkevice

So there you have it, my from a year where scents have hopefully helped us all get through another year of difficult and trying times.

Rachel Watson, Senior Contributor

What did you think of Despina’s and Rachel’s Ten Best Perfumes of 2021?

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