Thameen London Fanfare image by Karl
“Fanfare is more than being round and conventionally beautiful. It smells genderful by being inclusive of all genders and identities, which gives the fragrance an air of nonchalant olfactive anarchy.” Christopher Chong, Creative Director of Thameen London.
In an homage to Christopher Chong, Sr. Contributor Michael P Devine aka @fragrance_detective called him, “The Sigmund Freud of perfumery” celebrating Chong’s work as a reflection of a man with the vision for the art form invisible. Known for not just pushing the barrier but – pole-vaulting over it with panache – Chong is a maverick and adored in the fragrance community for his eccentric approach with an incredible eye for detail. Indeed, Christopher Chong whilst celebrating Thameen London as a ‘Heritage Brand’ is keenly aware of the tradition of Thameen London and the pageantry of British perfumery and its undeniable links to royalty. Chong though sees things kaleidoscopically and has an innate ability to unpick the complex and deliver it in a language we can understand. The Britologne Collection, a witty amalgamation of the words British and Cologne trumpet in a reimagination of the classic cologne structure and introduces a subversive and ‘naughty’ aspect which is sure to delight his fans across the world.
Christopher Chong at the USA launch of Fanfare at Saks Fifth Avenue photo by Hernando.
Chong has paid a thoughtful nod to the Classic ‘Treasure Collection’ of Thameen and given it a ‘reboot’. The new logo inspired by British Heraldry is an interlinked double ‘T’ which respects the past whilst ushering in an ambitious view of tomorrow’s perfumery. The cube shaped flacon is in clear frosted glass with the signature sapphire blue lettering of Thameen and is topped with a silver cap as a gesture of remembrance to Queen Elizabeth II as silver was a favourite colour of hers.
Chong places trust above all and for Thameen London Fanfare he chose to work with French Perfumer Bruno Jovanovic with whom he was able to go beyond the classical cologne and create a ‘cologne elixir’. From their friendship and discussions Fanfare was conceived to philosophise culture with humour. The inspiration for the perfume was built upon the Flower Market in London’s Covent Garden and the blend of Aristocratic and variety of class structures are evident as an inspiration from the Edwardian period of the early 20th century.
Bruno Jovanovic with Thameen London Fanfare
Fanfare is an announcement and as such the opening comes across as a burst of lemon, in fact two facets of lemon (zest and pulp) it is vibrant and sweet the bergamot adds a shimmering touch and these materials play harmoniously with neroli and the vaunted ‘flower market accord’. To me this mystery accord gives the fragrance a light dewy and effervescent element the kind of experience where wisps of florals sway in and out without drowning the composition. There is power here alright, but, it comes across as more flirty than a direct unapologetic approach.
The transformation of Fanfare comes through in its heart. Rosemary is a classical addition, juniper adds the fizzy-gin-zing pulling one in, but the surprise is trumpeted in via vermouth. It is an invitation to imbibe to our heart’s content the spicy, aromatic, boozy nuances. This layering is a cheeky nod to Queen Elizabeth II’s favourite tipple, and it ensnares and titillates. The base of musk, patchouli and vetiver adds a darker depth to Fanfare. I mainly experience the vetiver, which is smooth but retains its rooty facets. Chong cites George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion as an inspiration for the scent and I do consider Fanfare to be an introduction to what could well be a daring and exciting collection moving forward.
Thameen London Fanfare Official photograph.
Christopher Chong is ushering us into his world where he coaxes into a false sense of security. The typical structure of cologne is present in Fanfare. However, it wouldn’t be representative of his influence without some cheeky twists and turns. Fanfare is a celebration, both of British culture and classical cologne. It also heralds in the artistic residency of Christopher Chong at Thameen London. It is a memorable scent, which reflects Chong’s playful personality and also mirrors the merriment he must have had in launching it.
Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, flower market accord
Heart notes: rosemary, vermouth, juniper berry
Base notes: musk, patchouli, vetiver
Thameen London Fanfare will be available at Twisted Lily and other fine stockists. Bottle kindly gifted to Karl by UP Public Relations in the UK.
Please read Olya Bar’s’s review of Thameen London Blue Heart here.
Steven Gavrielatos’ video of Carved Oud here
Thanks to Twisted Lily we are offering a 50ml bottle of Thameen London Fanfare for one registered CaFleureBon reader in the USA ONLY (if you are not sure if you are registered, click here.). You must register or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please tell us what appealed to you about Karl’s review and if you have a favourite from the brand. Draw closes 03/22/23.
Please watch the Twisted Lily Instagram Live with Christopher Chong here
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @karl.topham @thameenfragrance @cchonguk @twistedlily360 @brunojovanovicperfumer
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed, or your dream prize.