State of Mind Aesthetic Turbulence Image by J©

State of Mind Aesthetic Turbulence is a fragrance that embodies the pursuit of perfection and harmony. With the concept created by Catherine Laskine-Balandina this bold spicy floral scent is the epitome of extravagance composed by perfumer Karine Dubreuil-Sereni. Inspired by the iconic character of Jay Gatsby it is a kind of olfactory incarnation of Gatsby’s ideal of success and beauty. It enchants and fascinates your sense of smell with its audacity and bold use of immortelle. Just like Gatsby, this fragrance strives for perfection in every aspect, from its scent to its longevity. It captures the spirit of the Roaring Twenties with its flacon the embodiment of Art Deco. With the Oolong Tea note capturing the feel of new worlds appearing in the west as cultures start to be further explored.

Pablo Picasso seated at Café de Flore general use

The choice of name for State of Mind Aesthetic Turbulence, instantly made me think of another café society, that of the surrealists and writers of Paris in the 1930’s, especially a young Swiss artist named Meret Oppenheim, who with a stroke of creative genius, she transformed a simple teacup, saucer, and spoon into a captivating masterpiece that would become an iconic symbol of surrealism. Creating her own Aesthetic Turbulence. Oppenheim’s journey began in the vibrant city of Paris, where she found herself in the company of artistic luminaries such as Pablo Picasso and his enchanting new lover, Dora Maar. The trio gathered at the renowned Café de Flore, a haven for creative minds and a breeding ground for inspiration. It was within these walls that Oppenheim’s imagination took flight. As the conversation flowed, Picasso’s eyes fell upon Oppenheim’s bracelet, a striking creation she had designed for the visionary fashion icon Elsa Schiaparelli. Adorned with ocelot fur, the bracelet exuded a sense of daring elegance. Picasso, ever the provocateur, remarked that anything could be covered in fur. Seizing the opportunity to inject a touch of whimsy into the moment, Oppenheim playfully responded, “Even this plate and this cup here.” The words hung in the air, sparking a mischievous glimmer in Oppenheim’s eyes. In a playful twist of fate, she found herself yearning for a little more fur to embrace her teacup, which had grown cold. With a light-hearted request, she asked the waiter for “un peu plus de fourrure” — a little more fur.

Meret Oppenheim. Object. 1936. Fur-covered cup, saucer, and spoon, cup 4 3/8″ (10.9 cm) in diameter; saucer 9 3/8″ (23.7 cm) in diameter; spoon 8″ (20.2 cm) long, overall height 2 7/8″ (7.3 cm). Purchase. © 2022 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/Pro Litteris, Zurich. MoMA

Oppenheim whisked herself to a department store fueled by her newfound inspiration. With meticulous care, she enrobed the teacup, saucer, and spoon in the opulent pelt of a Chinese gazelle. The cream-and-tan hues of the fur flow harmoniously; creating a satisfying contrast that captivates the eye. Word of Oppenheim’s creation spread like wildfire, reaching the ears of André Breton, the visionary founder of surrealism. Enchanted by the audacity and ingenuity of her artwork, he recognized its profound significance. Here was a sculpture that transcended the boundaries of convention, a testament to the power of imagination and the boundless possibilities of art. Meret Oppenheim’s teacup, saucer, and spoon wrapped in the delicate embrace of a gazelle’s fur became an emblem of surrealism, her masterpiece of aesthetic turbulence.

Man Ray. Meret Oppenheim. 1932. Gelatin silver print (solarized), 8 7/8 × 6 9/16″ (22.6 × 16.7 cm). Gift of James Thrall Soby. © 2022 Man Ray Trust/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris. MoMA

State of Mind Aesthetic Turbulence is a fragrance that takes you on a sensory journey, as it opens you experience the sweet orange and soft savoury green aromatics with herbal undertones, its subtly complex with rich floral notes intertwined with hints of herbal greens and dark tones of black teas. As the jammy orange and oolong tea aromas play off each other, a twist begins to unfold. This Aesthetic Turbulence is beautifully surreal; with the colour of the flacon giving you a hint at the further direction this will take us. The addition of sweet red pepper adds a vibrant surreal touch, offering a crunchy sweetness that allows the darker notes to flicker through from the base. Hints of earthy patchouli and whispers of jasmine soften the edges, while the teas’ aromas seep into the delicate petals pearl of floral teas. Immortelle takes centre stage, bringing a deep, burnt sugar sweetness that perfectly complements the herbal spices. It’s a luxurious blend that whispers of warm skin and furs, adding an almost animalic facet to the fragrance.

Soft smoky oolong tea notes gracefully intertwine with the rich immortelle, creating a symphony of scents that is both captivating and alluring. The honeyed hay and tobacco facets add a touch of mystery, while the dark spiced sweetness lingers on your skin, reminiscent of the quiet intensity of honey. The initial orange jammyness transforms into a softly figgy-spiced sweetness, with just a hint of biscuit, as the fragrance settles into its dry down. As the scent lingers on your skin, this rich figgy immortelle sweetness and a subtle smoky oolong tea aroma remain, like the haunting scent of tea’s steam lingering in the air, evoking new dreams and adventures. Immortelle as a material is an experience that changes your perception of the world, its very complex and conflictive. Experiencing it here expands your senses, much like gazing at a captivating piece of art. State of Mind Aesthetic Turbulence opens your mind to new possibilities, inviting you to explore the boundless world of scents and smells.

Notes: Top: Oolong Tea, Mandarin, Green Tea Pearls, Bergamot, Heart: Jasmine, Immortelle, Red Pepper, Base: Licorice, Labdanum

 

Disclosure:  Bottle gifted by the brand, opinions are my own.

 

–J @wearescentient, Contributor

State of Mind Aesthetic Turbulence  courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of State of Mind we have a 100 ml bottle of Aesthetic Turbulence for one registered reader in the EU and USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on J Wearescentient’s review and where you live. Draw closes 10 /28/2023

Available at Parfums Raffy and So Avante Garde so be sure to sample or buy, or order directly from the State of Mind Website

Also read: State of Mind Voluptuous Seduction by Nicoleta, Secret of Success by Karl; Fanfarone Italiano by Karl and watch Steven’s video State of Mind Open Mind

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