Roja Parfums Apex Parfum and Parfum Cologne bottle, Photo by Michael Devine

“Nature is so powerful, so strong. Capturing its essence is not easy – your work becomes a dance with light and the weather. It takes you to a place within yourself.” – Annie Leibovitz

In geometry, I was taught that most objects can have only one apex—the highest point, the pinnacle. In perfumery, I’m confident that there can be more than one Apex. Early last year, to much acclaim, Roja Dove released Apex Parfum Cologne , a refined-yet-adventurous fragrance inspired by the pulse of the jungle. Already an admirer (read: fanboy) of Mr. Dove’s work, I was instantly captivated by this curious green elixir which, as I exalted in my review, “reframes the architecture of refinement and re-establishes the exemplar.” If the Parfum Cologne is the new exemplar of the proverbial “powerhouse” fragrance, are there parts of this jungle left uncharted? Indeed, there are. With a deeper growl and deeper shades of green, a new Apex has arrived. Grab a torch and compass—let’s explore the newest release in the Apex realm: Roja Parfums Apex Parfum.

Roja Dove, Photo Courtesy Roja Parfums

According to Mr. Dove, as expressed on the website Roja Parfums Apex Parfum “connects us to the earth and its spiritual energies, unleashing instincts and abilities that lay dormant within each of us”. Only when we embrace our connection to nature and our innermost instincts can we reach the Apex of our potential, becoming the best version of ourselves.” But is there a best version of Apex? Interestingly, the note listings for both Roja Parfums Apex Parfum and Parfum Cologne are identical. But to my nose, the proportions are vastly different. When describing the Parfum Cologne, I noted there’s a chordal strike to the opening which at once reveals top, middle and to some degree, basenotes all in tandem. It’s remarkable, actually, and seems to defy molecular science. Then, with a whoosh, the opening accords of lemon, bergamot, red mandarin and orange return to begin the evolution of the composition. The Parfum opens in a similar manner, but—if I were to momentarily exchange jungle metaphors for music—what was once a chamber orchestra is now a philharmonic.

Abstraction in Green and Black, Jimmy Ernst, 1946, Public Doman

The vibrant, crystalline opening lasts a bit longer in the Parfum Cologne; the freshness takes hold and remains throughout. The Parfum, on the other hand, opens with a similar brightness, but the light casts a shadow and the depth is immediate. Greens are darker, browns are richer. Amplified galbanum, elemi, patchouli, oakmoss, rum, tobacco and a touch of leather provide a no-nonsense gravity. Softer notes of sandalwood, amber, benzoin and musk emerge in delicate counterpoint; the wearer takes charge, not control. It’s muscular, but doesn’t flex. The Parfum, in my interpretation, leaves the jungle behind and as I’d likely wear this version in colder months, conjures images of wintry greens—fir balsam, juniper, even the Northern Lights.

Northern Lights by Tom Tomson, 1917, Public Domain

In the vein of the Parfum Cologne, Roja Parfums Apex Parfum (in true Roja fashion) has a “modern vintage” vibe. Fans of ‘80’s and ‘90’s boardroom-bosses such as the original Ralph Lauren Polo, Patou Pour Homme or even the modern classic Italian Cypress from Tom Ford will likely appreciate Apex in either concentration. While both interpretations have excellent longevity and projection, the Parfum stays a bit closer to the skin and has slightly greater longevity at 12+ hours. Apex(s) was one of my 10 best perfumes of 2022.

Top Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange; Heart Notes: Jasmine, Cistus, Pineapple; Base Notes: Galbanum, Elemi, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Rum, Tobacco, Cypress, Fir Balsam, Juniper Berry, Casmir Wood, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Amber, Frankincense, Labdanum, Leather, Ambergris, Musk

Disclosure: This review is based on a bottle of Apex Parfum graciously gifted for review from Twisted Lily. Apex Parfum Cologne was purchased by me. Opinions are  my own

Michael Devine, Senior Contributor

 Roja Parfums Apex Parfum, Courtesy Roja Parfums

I’m so enamored with Apex that I’d love to share it! We have 5ml decants of Apex in both its Parfum Cologne and Parfum concentrations for one registered reader in the U.S. only. To be eligible, please leave a comment indicating what intrigues you about Roja Parfums Apex Parfum and indicate that you live in the contiguous U.S. Draw closes 1/25/2023.

You can purchase or sample Roja Parfums Apex Parfum and Parfum Cologne on Twisted Lily here

Please read an  exclusive article written for ÇaFleureBon on the History of British Perfumes by Roja Dove here

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