Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne by Karl

“With A’Oud Ancienne I wanted to highlight the powerful and unusual fragrance and not follow the hundreds of “crowd pleasing” ambrox-laden ouds on the market. I sought out unconventional materials and aroma chemicals and paired them with more familiar notes, giving A’Oud Ancienne my Rogue signature by uncovering Assam Oud’s animalic, earthy and leathery facets.” –Manuel Cross

As a perfume lover you might ask “do we really need another oud?”  A resounding yes, if it is Manuel Cross’ new Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne, (the first in a series of three ‘oud’ eau de parfums) and which specifically honours Assam agarwood. As a small batch artisanal house, Rogue Perfumery shuns the “crowd pleasing ambrox-laden ouds” so ubiquitous on store shelves and instead takes us to the heart of oud. Said to be ‘aloes’ in ancient times and interpreted as it was originally used in practices such as the Kama Sutra and Nirvana Sutra, Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne is a reimagination of how oud might have smelled a millennia ago when smoke from agarwood chip would rise from braziers.

Agarwood forest courtesy of Manuel Cross

This is a fragrance which immediately captures your attention. The initial experience is a blaze of vermillion and of cherry tobacco and cinnamon. None of these ingredients  are listed in the notes.  The sweetness certainly develops with the use of bitter almond and labdanum. From here Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne begins to reveal its leathery and animalic personality. As I dig my nose deeper to discover more, I smell a  distinctive “hormonal” accord which one can relate to the release of oxytocin (associated with love and libido). This aspect of the fragrance is complimented via the use of castoreum and oakmoss; think dark tanned nubuck leather as opposed to a soft suede. The strength of this is muted with the use of ylang adding a floralcy that balances the composition- slightly rugged, deep and certainly earthy but with a luminous green quality to it as well.

 Oud Oil courtesy of Manuel Cross

The scent is unique as it morphs and changes throughout its development. One moment there are hints of jasmine or orange blossom – slightly dirty synonymous with an afterglow.  Next the fresh piney and balsamic aspects pulse through, all below that deep heart of agarwood which keeps on orchestrating the composition.

Resinated wood by Manuel Cross

A’Oud Ancienne is an edgy perfume; wild and rugged but smooth and sweet; the heat of resinated wood is apparent throughout. Once again Manuel Cross demonstrates that he’s a trailblazer adept at the abstract and the flamboyant, vintage with a modern twist—all are hallmarks of his signature. Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne is the work of a perfumer who isn’t limited by boundaries and develops fragrances with passion, independence and is a true rebel with a cause.

Notes: Agarwood Assam, Blue Cypress, Labdanum, Castoreum accord, Amryis, Bitter Almond, Ylang, Oakmoss

Disclaimer: Bottle of Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne kindly provided by Rogue Perfumery. My opinions are my own.

Karl Topham, UK Brand Ambassador and Senior Editor

Launching in the USA at Luckyscent and at Rogue Perfumery here

As with all Rogue Perfumery fragrances A’Oud Ancienne is IFRA compliant.

Please read: Profiles in American Perfumery, Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery.

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Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne by Karl 

Thanks to Rogue Perfumery and Manuel Cross, we have a draw for a 30 ml bottle of Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne for one registered reader in the EU, UK & USA.  You must register of your comment will not count. To be eligible please leave a comment about what strikes you about Rogue Perfumery A’Oud Ancienne and where you live.  Do you have a favorite Rogue fragrance? Draw closes 8/13/22.

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