Pigmentarium Erotikon, collage by Nicoleta

Pigmentarium is an independent Czech perfume house founded in 2018 by the creative duo Tomáš Ric and Jakub Hiermann. Tomáš Ric has a background in fashion that translates into an aesthetic sensibility that infuses many areas of the brand – starting from the distinctive edge of the visuals to the sleek luxurious packaging to the olfactive profiles that veer away from mainstream trends.

The name evokes a color palette – pigmentum in Latin means color, and pigmentarium is a Latin term that designated the place where scented ointments and colors were sold. The brand takes its inspiration from Czech history and culture, which gave us  world-renowned names, glorious architecture, and avant-garde movements, and verbalizes it to a manifesto where ethics and aesthetics meet:

Tomáš Ric, Pigmentarium founder and Jakub Hiermann, perfumer – via Instagram, collage made by Nicoleta

“It was clear to us at the beginning of our journey in 2018 that the ethical path was the only possible way. We produce our perfumes sustainably, work with local producers, and support communities. Human labor value is and always will be more important to us than profit. Our main goal is that not only us, but also our customers, and everybody who is a part of this fragrant journey, feels joy and that our fragrances keep them company when traveling through the most beautiful of memories, enhancing precious moments. Dreams. They are our commitment.” (…) “Every single PIGMENTARIUM perfume is an olfactory transcription of our dreams and thoughts. Without trying to reflect trends. Created to underline the character of its wearer.”-Tomáš Ric

Gustav Machatý Erotikon movie stills via IMDB

​Pigmentarium Erotikon, a sensually mysterious perfume telling a story of love and lust, has been inspired by the silent film of the same name, directed by Gustav Machatý. Released in  1929, and starring beautiful Ita Rina as the lead actress, it’s a movie that explores themes of sexuality and desire, and it was one of the earliest films to depict a woman’s pleasure, a theme considered taboo during the era when Erotikon was released.  It could be said that this is the first depiction of lovemaking, seen from the female point of view, where a woman is no longer a passive actor that has sex ”happen to her” but feels desire, takes initiative, and enjoys it.

I loved the very meta and delicious connection to the fragrance, as in the movie, Erotikon is the name of the perfume Georg gives to Andrea when they first met (as an easter egg to the movie aficionados, see the frames here, from 10:38). The movie uses splendid cinematography, thanks to Vaclav Vich’s groundbreaking camera work, with dynamic and sophisticated scenes, switches perspective from hers/his side, with wide loops that are reminiscent of a merry-go-round, successions of blur and focus to surrounding objects that become filled with symbolism, the pictures on the wall, the gramophone, the dizzying tempo of the music. And the climax scene – depicted as two drops of water that melt into one – is a timeless story of ever-lasting lust.

Collage of Pigmentarium Erotikon brand images, with Vanda Janda and Monica Sofia

Harmony juxtaposed with contradictions, an enchanting balance between unbearable tension and sweet ease, the thrill invoked by the forbidden. The stark yet eclectic minimalism of elite interiors, the clean lines of Cubism, and the pioneering spirit of the avant-garde – all these elements served as inspiration not only for the perfume’s designers but also for those weaving the magic of its visual campaign. Sleek eye candy, the visuals are a monochrome exploration of love, lust, and celebration of femininity. The artist who captured everything is the winner of the Czech Grand Design 2018 competition Hana Knížová. There is a splash of color – bordeaux –  sophisticated, cool, provocative, and I can’t think of a better color to represent sensuality.  There is also a Spotify playlist available, that gives us another sensorial facet to Erotikon, teasing us even further, before we get to smell the perfume.

Collage of Pigmentarium brand images and photo stills from Erotikon Gustav Machatý  via IMDB

 

“The EROTIKON perfume tells a story of love and desire and brings back memories of loves and sins long gone. I tried imagining what it would be like to have a perfume with the aid of which one could seduce anybody the wearer desires. What would it smell like? How would it work?” Despite the visual being mainly about the beauty of women, EROTIKON is intended for everybody who falls for it. I am convinced that a perfume chooses its wearer, not the other way around. Moreover, passion is not limited by sex or age,”  adds the author of the scent,  perfumer Jakub Hiermann

The heady, intoxicating allure of Erotikon unfurls much like a silent language of seduction. The scent opens with tantalizing top notes, a spicy blend of ginger and pink pepper – sharp, lively, adrenalized, like the sense of possibility that creates an explosive energy exchange between two lovers meeting for the first time. A force field that raises pulses, with the flutter of the butterflies that reverbs from one soul cage into the other, an overture of desire, unraveling to its crescendo. The scent almost crackles on the skin, like liquid static that raises the hairs on the back of your neck, a delicious spiky roughness that is soon followed by sheer indulgence.  Melting on top of the spices we have the sinfully sweet forbidden fruit of love, brought on by the velvety richness of chocolate notes – scrumptious, high-brow, decadent. In the heart notes we have the tenderness that follows the tempest of desire, with vanilla and tonka, voluptuous and creamy, flowing in languid curves. It conjures up images of bare skin warmed by touch, the sensual abandon and yearning, in the moments that bend time and make it flow, slow like honey, from one second to the other. After many hours, we have the after-glow the passionate encounter, with whispers of amber, musk, and the earthiness of patchouli making for a warm and intimate experience.

Notes: chocolate, ginger, pink pepper, vanilla, tonka beans, amber, musk, patchouli, sandalwood

Disclosure: The bottle was gifted by the brand, opinions are my own

Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor

Pigmentarium Erotikon bottle and box, photo by Nicoleta

Thanks to the generosity of Pigmentarium we have a 50 ml  of Pigmentarium Erotikin for one registered reader in the EU, UK and USA.  You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Nicoleta’s review of Pigementarium Erotikin and where you live. Draw closes 6/12/2023

Pigmentarium Erotikon was composed in 2019

Also, please read Emmanuelle’s review of Pigmentarium Murmur (thank you for the introduction)

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