Of all of the new fragrance releases of the last three years Blood Concept is one of those which has consistently challenged the idea of what perfume can be. Owners and Creative Directors Antonio Zuddas and Giovanni Castelli have endeavored to create not only fragrance but other visual cues around the fragrances. Last March when they had the preview party for the new Black Series they premiered it in an installation in a Milan, Italy museum complete with a darkroom to experience the new fragrances. It would be easy to dismiss these fragrances as more flash than substance and at a cursory glance it is easiest to do that. I have found throughout all of the releases a keen aesthetic running throughout and one which sometimes comforts and sometimes provokes. Depending on my mood, or the mood of the wearer, either can be irritating. The Black Series like all that has come before from Blood Concept contains both congenial and confrontational fragrances but all of them deserve notice.
The Black Series is the dark reflection of the original four releases based on blood types. In the original collection each fragrance represented the development of civilization from cave-dweller through concrete jungle stalker. The Black Series matches that vibe but wants to capture the more primal identity of each of those phases and so the corresponding Black Series blood type works to capture more elemental emotions.
Photo by Ali Kazma
Black Series O celebrates The Animal Identity. Perfumer Francoise Caron was inspired by the Japanes art of bondage called Kinbaku. To that end Black O carries a rope accord made up of hemp and carrot seed combined with a rough leather accord made warm with a hint of amber. Black O smells like a leather glove just finished tying off knots might smell like. It is carnal with a hint of the forbidden.
Mandragore
Black Series A is The Green Identity and carries with it a hint of the darker things one finds in the woods. Perfumer Sylvie Fischer-Desuzinge reminds you that even the sweetest parts of the forest carry potential peril as the floral accord at the heart of Black A is mandragore. Before getting to that Mme Fischer-Desuzinge opens Black A with a high energy mix of ginger and coffee which dissipates rather quickly to display the mandragore which has an earthy quality with facets of violets throughout. It feels like a lovely scented trap to lure the unsuspecting within. The rest of Black A precedes pretty standardly with sandalwood and benzoin adding a slightly sweet woody finish.
Black Series B is The Nomadic Identity and is composed by perfumer Philippe Bousseton. M. bousseton is looking at the human need to explore but also captures the darker need to conquer that which we discover. The opening of Black B is a fascinating mix of Earl Grey tea and a gunpowder accord. Reminiscent of the days when the sun did not set upon the British Empire I can imagine the residue of firearms would hang in the air while a pot of Earl Grey was served. It makes for a unique opening which morphs into a further tea note of red roiboos of South Africa and Hinoki wood of Asia. Our fragrant conquerors have acquired new items to bring home. A leather and ambrox mix finish Black B in a voyage well taken, full of treasures.
Black Series AB is also composed by M. Bousseton and represents The Mineral Identity. As it was in the first series Black AB is the most challenging of this collection to embrace. Just like the concrete canyons of modern times separating and stratifying society M. Bousseton makes it difficult to get close to Black AB. Right from the opening of pungent green pepper over grapefruit with some aldehydes adding a metallic framework to hang all of this off of. A group of notes to give that fresh poured concrete smell come next. Heliotrope adds a watery quality to the freshly setting concrete and the feel of slowly solidifying minerality is captured. Finally the human predator arrives with a mix of musk and woods carefully avoiding the wet concrete as they head out for their day.
For me Black O with the mix of rope and leather is my favorite of this bunch but when I feel a little more adventurous I have been wearing Black AB to have a more lively conversation with my fragrance.
All of the Blood Concept Black Series have excellent longevity and above average sillage.
I continue to enjoy the vision for Blood Concept as visualized by Messrs. Zuddas and Castelli. The Black Series provides a fantastic contrast to the first collection and taken together make a complete statement on the development of civilization from caveman to modern man.
Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Intertrade Europe.
Thanks to Intertrade Europe we have a sample set of all four Black Series fragrances to giveaway. This is a US only draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming which one you would like best and whether you are in the US. The draw ends on January 30, 2014.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor