J’s image of Masque Milano Ribot

Sadly, this year we bid farewell to Alessandro Brun, the beloved  co-founder and Artistic Director of Masque Milano. In honour of his remarkable life and contributions, his dear friend and collaborator Ermano Picco has penned a heartfelt tribute, which you can find here. Alessandro will be deeply missed, but his legacy lives on through the magnificent fragrances he has bestowed upon us.

Alessandro Brun (R.I.P.) and Masque Milano Ribot courtesy of the brand

Ribot is the inaugural scent from Masque Milano’s exquisite Emerald Collection – a range of opulent creations crafted with the rarest ingredients, which is now, joined the latest release, Alcove, a captivating chypre by the talented Karine Chevallier.

It’s off we go to the races as we delve into the world of Ribot, a fragrance named after the legendary racehorse and inspired by the vibrant atmosphere of an early morning at the Racecourse in Deauville, Normandy. Picture a racecourse nestled by the sea, where waves crash and cheers erupt as horses thunder past the finish line. I grew up just a stone’s throw away from a racecourse and the wild Irish Sea; days were filled with the echoes of crashing waves or the electrifying cheers from the stadium of race days. Thought in Dublin, horses are still an integral part of the city’s fabric. During the summer, the pony boys take over the streets, galloping through the city centre with a wild energy. Ribot feels like it was tailor-made for me. Its essence captures the essence of my childhood. So, saddle up and let Ribot take you on its journey.

Ribot the legendary racehorse via Wikipedia.

You can sense the majestic creature’s presence as it glides powerfully through the early morning mist, stirring up hints of green in its wake. The vibrant pink pepper adds a wild and electrifying spiciness to the air, mingling with Ribot’s velvety horsehair. The saffron rich leather exudes a luxurious aura, reminiscent of high-quality riding gear. A touch of rosemary and clary sage brings a warm, green essence to the beast, a hint of animalic allure from the rosemary’s sharpness, a sharp crack of the whip to move things faster. With a subtle farm-like funk adding a mischievous charm to the overall feel of the composition.

Perfumer Antonie Lie.

The way the equestrian animalic note is composed here is incredibly clever as it evolves, but right now one of the best hay aromas is taking all my attention. You can smell the dried and wet hay combined as if it’s in a bale, gentle fermenting. The combination of leather and herbal greens further enhances the essence of the hay, creating a truly remarkable olfactory experience. Masque Milano Ribot features the ‘Crau’ ultrasound extract grand Cru from France, which, like the saffron, has been meticulously extracted to provide an incredibly rich and lifelike scent. Antoine Lie has masterfully combined and composed these elements, taking this fragrance to a whole new level, making Ribot come alive.

Masque Milano Ribot presentation courtesy of the brand.

Ribot carries a delicate hint of mineral saltiness in the mid stages, as if it has been seasoned to provide a delightful umami experience. It conjures the atmosphere of Deauville racecourse in Normandy, where the air is infused sea and racetrack, while making the notes sing a little more. Jasmine sambac whispers of opulent floral aromas from the bale of hay, enhancing the grassy green notes with a subtle undertone of unripe banana. This combination brings forth a hint of fermentation, capturing he realistic facets of hay, while teasing out a musky and waxy warmth. The hay becomes as luxurious as the leather riding equipment, merging seamlessly as this horse gracefully canters on.

Masque Milano Ribot presentation courtesy of the brand.

If you have ever smelled real animalic materials you will know they have this intense sweetness, almost indolic, with a fatty richness, here Antoine Lie uses myrrh, jasmine and leather to recreate this purring wildness. Myrrh creates this sticky rich resinous darkness that lingers just under the hay, made wild with jasmine sambac, whose leathery facets gives it’s a bodily feel. A pinch of pepper spices prevents it from becoming overly sweet, while coumarin adds a dry muskiness that further enriches the leather’s texture. This intense whisper of dark sweetness possesses a magical quality, evoking an animalic, horse-like essence. Ribot exudes a quiet yet commanding power, much like standing near a majestic horse. However, it is softened by a cosy, round vanilla sweetness derived from benzoin, which intertwines with herbal green notes, creating a smoky undertone reminiscent of a rich musk lingering over grass-stained leathers. With a hint of animalic allure, Masque Milano Ribot entices with its wild and playful nature, all concealed beneath a layer of luxurious leather and floral hay. Its presence is undeniably powerful, exuding sensuality and control.

Some will smell Ribot and may be reminded of elements of Rien by Etat Libre d’Orange, another leather fragrance crafted by Antonio Lie. However, Rien has a more industrial and gothic vibe, while Masque Milano Ribot exudes an air of sophistication and opulence. It’s like the wealthy cousin who rides out on weekends from their grand estate, dressed in a refined aura and wrapped in the scent of luxurious leather. Antoine Lie’s perfumery style adds a contemporary twist to this fragrance, making it truly stunning perfume encased in an exquisite emerald bottle. This is  the scent of quiet luxury.

Notes: Pinkpepper Co2 extract Réunion, Clary Sage oil Grand Cru France, Saffron extract Grand Cru Cashmere India, Rosemary oil Morocco, Hay ‘Crau’ ultrasound extract grand Cru France, Jasmine sambac India, Leathery accord, Benzoin resinoid Laos, Myrrh oil Somalia.

Disclosure: Masque Milano kindly sent me a tester for review. Thoughts and nose are my own.

J wearescentient, Senior Contributor-Artist and Olfactive explorer

Masque Milano Ribot courtesy of the brand.

Thanks to the generosity of Masque Milano, we have a tester of Masque Milano Ribot for one registered reader in the  EU or U.S. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Masque Milano Ribot, whether you have a favorite Masque Milano fragrance, and where you live. Draw ends 3/29/2024

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Editor Ermano Picco was the Evaluator

Please read Michelyn’s introduction to Masque Milano White Whale and Sleight of Fern here.

Michelyn highlighted the Emerald Collection in her Esxence 2024 Overview

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