LilaNur Parfums Incarnation (Olivier Cresp), Malli Insolite (Honorine Blanc), Agar Épicé (Fabrice Pellegrin) 2021+ 3 you should be wearing giveaway

 

  LilaNur Parfums

LilaNur Parfums

“Our name LilaNur represents India’s syncretic culture – Lila is Sanskrit for the illusionary celestial play of Creation and Nur is the Arabic/Persian word for Divine Light.” ~ Anita Lal, New Delhi

Co-founders of LilaNur Anita Lal and Paul Austin of LilaNur

  Co-creators Anita Lal and Paul Austin of LilaNur via FB page

What occurs when two creatives possessed by a passion for Indian flora meet by chance (Is there such a thing as ‘chance’ to begin with?)? In the instance of Indian designer Anita Lal, who has an ongoing love affair with native flora, her career has been fueled by cultural pride – having established a design house named Good Earth in 1996 which celebrates the motifs and lore of her native country – and who, in 2017 (with her daughter Simran) developed a boutique named Paro based upon Vedic principles and fostering well-being. Paul Austin (of the Austin Advisory Group) has worked extensively in the fragrance industry and as a brand expert; his 2009 trip to India left its indelible aromatic imprint, imbuing him with an immense curiosity about (and appreciation for) its exquisitely scented flowering plants. When these two made one another’s acquaintance it culminated in their founding a luxury fragrance house, the very first from India: LilaNur Parfums. Their next move was pure genius: teaming up with the Firmenich Innovation Lab in Grasse and four of their finest French perfumers Honorine Blanc, Clément Gavarry, Fabrice Pellegrin, and Olivier Cresp. The connection to Grasse is strong: both Messieurs Pellegrin and Cresp are native-born Grasseois, Gavarry spent much of his youth there learning from his master perfumer father Max Gavarry (he later made NYC his home base); Mme. Blanc was born in Beirut, studied in Paris, was mentored by Master Perfumer Sophia Grojsman and settled in NYC.

LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite, Rajni Nocturne, Gul Rouge, Vetiver Mousson, Davana Cafe, Agar Epice and Incantation

LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite, Rajni Nocturne, Gul Rouge, Vetiver Mousson, Davana Cafe, Agar Epice and Incarnation

The entire introductory line of LilaNur Parfums is centered around magnificent fragrant materials epitomizing the finest examples of Indian horticulture as its inspirational focus. Each showcases a particular note. In addition to the seven eaux de parfums, there are three attar absolus – rose, tuberose and jasmine – which I’ve yet to experience (I’ll confess that if I had a choice, it would be jasmine!). Having sampled all seven, I found myself unable to pick a favorite – so here are my three favorites, each one unique: LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite, Agar Épicé, and Incarnation.

LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite by Honorine Blanc

LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite and Honorine Blanc

LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite (Honorine Blanc): In the Tamil Nadu region of India, sambac jasmine is known as Madurai Malli: heady star-shaped blooms which appear in garlands, temples, nestled amidst the raven tresses of women, and piled high in baskets at the outdoor markets. Malli Insolite intones wisps of ritual incense and undertones of honeyed orange blossom with an animalic edge – which may be related to the specific Indian sambac absolute employed. There is a soupçon of mentholic pleasure within it (tuberose?) which feels both dissonant and disarmingly lovely. Pink pepper provides a marvelously soft spiciness tinged with a murmur of fruit and faint verdancy. Are there stone steps leading to an ancient sanctuary, where these wreaths lie in wait as offering? Within that sacred space where heaven meets earth, there is a point of convergence which Malli Insolite occupies – that within my heart. Notes: pink pepper, jasmine sambac, tuberose, mineral notes, incense (perceived)

LilaNurParfums Agar Epice by Fabrice Pellegrin

LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé and Fabrice Pellegrin

LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé (Fabrice Pellegrin; “Il faut dans ce bas monde aimer beaucoup de choses, pour savoir après tout – ce qu’on aime le mieux” ~ Alfred de Musset to Victor Hugo. Truer words never spoken – and an oud which enchants as vividly as if one were partaking of a hookah in intimate company. Agar Épicé’s mélange of woods ranging from unctuous to smoky to majestic commences a délice of substance, where ginger sparkles and highlights each characteristic with zingy charm. The wary needn’t fear; there lies no barnyard in wait, no intimidation by virtue of domination. These are tender sorceries: deftly spiced, leather insinuated – not cudgeled. If a warm cup of woody chai were a perfume, LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé would be its embodiment. Notes: ginger, cypriol oil (nagarmotha), guaiacwood, sandalwood, oud, leather

LilaNur parfums Incarnation Olivier Cresp

LilaNur Parfums Incarnation and Olivier Cresp

LilaNur Parfums Incarnation (Olivier Cresp):Chypre may well be as chypre does – but nothing quite so daring, étincellant and startling has come across my path in years. Oh, the richness! Incarnation is swoon-worthy, a head-turning fragrant anomaly. Flashing, pristine aldehydes announce exquisite floral pageantry, lavishly peppered in anticipation. Incarnation’s exuberance never flags, never falls apart: from sparkling commencement to its lavish bouquet to the duskily secretive base, it is unadulterated joy in fluid form. A fascinating and seductive study in aromatic chiaroscuro, Incarnation refuses to relinquish its hold – and all of its scented components continue to hold sway for hours, each voice weaving in and out indefinitely; you never lose sight of any of them throughout its development. LilaNur Parfums Incarnation truly smells like a marriage between India and France – in the most sophisticated manner. Notes: aldehydes, black pepper, Indian jasmine, rose, orris, vetiver, patchouli, labdanum, temple incense

Perhaps now you can appreciate why I couldn’t possibly pick just one. Even choosing three feels like a mother having to choose which child she loves best. LilaNur Parfums is one the most impressive new lines I’ve come across of late.

Samples generously provided by LilaNur – many thanks!  My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

LilaNur Parfums Incarnation, Malli Insolite and Agar Epice

Thanks to the largesse of LilaNur Parfums, we are offering a reader’s choice of a 100 ml. bottle of either LilaNur Malli Insolite, Agar Épicé, or Incarnation for one registered reader in the USA or UK. You must register or your comment will not count.To be eligible, please tell us what appealed to you about Ida’s review, where you live, and which LilaNur Parfums eau de parfum you would prefer if you win and where you live. Draw close 10/6/2022 and the winner will be announced within two weeks after.

Editor’s Note: LilaNur Parfums launched at Bergdorf Goodman’s in the Fall of 2021 and recently debuted at Harrods in 2022. All images via LilaNur Parfums

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28 comments

  • I’m happy to hear about this groundbreaking new house. I had no idea they were the first luxury perfume brand out of India. Of the three mentioned, LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite is the perfume I most want to try. ~Indiana, USA

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    I love cresp and many of his perfumes, so I loved the way ida describes his newest. I also like how she talks about the journey over hours. The incarnation is the one I’d like to win. I live in Indiana

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    When talking about absolute masters, you have to talk about Olivier cresp. I love cresp and many of his perfumes, so I loved the way ida describes his newest. I also like how she talks about the journey over hours. The incarnation is the one I’d like to win. I live in Indiana.

  • Ida!!! ❤️❤️❤️ Wow!!! If Ida says, “LilaNur Parfums is one the most impressive new lines I’ve come across of late,” this this is a house that one must experience!!! I am drawn to the jasmine and chypre scents myself. If I were a lucky winner, I would ask for Incarnation!
    A marriage between India & France! Fascinating! I’d love to be able to experience this! The jasmine attar sounds heavenly as well! Thank you for the opportunity!
    USA ❤️

  • I agree with Ida that if there was one note to represent Indian olfactory culture, jasmine would perhaps be the ideal candidate and one of the fragrances that has most impressed Ida in LilaNur line, indeed, plays with jasmine as the central note. However, I do have some lovely jasmine perfumes already so I am most intrigued by LilaNur Parfums LAgar Épicé as it plays with oud and it is not a barnyardy oud. My choice for this draw is LilaNur Parfums LAgar Épicé. I am in US.

  • You really can’t go wrong focusing on Indian flora for perfume compositions. LilaNur has chosen some heavy hitters to create scents for their line. I also love jasmine and I’ve no doubt the jasmine sambac sourced by LilaNur is exquisite. The fragrance created by Olivier Cresp, Incarnation, combining florals and incense with an aldehyde opening is the one I would choose. MD, USA.

  • I love the idea of focusing on the flora of a specific place! These all sound so tempting, but I most loved Ida’s description of Malli Insolite: “honeyed orange blossom with an animalic edge”? Yes please. I, too, love jasmine. That said… I might love a really good chypre even more than jasmine…so my ultimate choice would be Incarnation.
    Thank you for these lovely reviews!
    WV, USA

  • Chypre may well be as chypre does – but nothing quite so daring, étincellant and startling has come across my path in years. Oh, the richness! Incarnation is swoon-worthy, a head-turning fragrant anomaly. Flashing, pristine aldehydes announce exquisite floral pageantry, lavishly peppered in anticipation. Incarnation’s exuberance never flags, never falls apart: from sparkling commencement to its lavish bouquet to the duskily secretive base, it is unadulterated joy in fluid form. A fascinating and seductive study in aromatic chiaroscuro, Incarnation refuses to relinquish its hold – and all of its scented components continue to hold sway for hours, each voice weaving in and out indefinitely; you never lose sight of any of them throughout its development. LilaNur Parfums Incarnation truly smells like a marriage between India and France – in the most sophisticated manner. Notes: aldehydes, black pepper, Indian jasmine, rose, orris, vetiver, patchouli, labdanum, temple incense. A beautiful and majestic description by Ida I am intrigued by the notes especially Patchouli, Rose and Incense. A house that I have got no experience with I am afraid. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Alfred de Musset to Victor Hugo. Truer words never spoken – and an oud which enchants as vividly as if one were partaking of a hookah in intimate company. Agar Épicé’s mélange of woods ranging from unctuous to smoky to majestic commences a délice of substance, where ginger sparkles and highlights each characteristic with zingy charm. The wary needn’t fear; there lies no barnyard in wait, no intimidation by virtue of domination. These are tender sorceries: deftly spiced, leather insinuated – not cudgeled. If a warm cup of woody chai were a perfume, LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé would be its embodiment. Notes: ginger, cypriol oil (nagarmotha), guaiacwood, sandalwood, oud, leather. I am fascinated by the notes especially Sandalwood and Oud in particular this sounds like a magical concoction. Thanks a lot from the United Kingdom

  • As my wife will tell you, I hate coffee lol. I do love an iced chai which leads me to want to try the Agar Epice for its ‘chai’ ginger scent. Of the three, I belive this has the best shot of becoming one of my rotation fragrances. Thanks for the draw. USA

  • I’m a sucker for a good oud and spice aroma. The whole line sounds wonderful but LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé is perfect for my taste. I’d love to win LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé. I’m in New Jersey, USA.

  • I love that she has such a history with her country and the local flora and cultural pride. What a hard choice since Ida found it difficult to choose a favorite. If I’m the lucky winner I would choose Incarnation with the marriage between France and India. Sure wish there was a Bergdorf Goodman near me so I could test the whole line, my local department store doesn’t carry the best of niche sadly. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • I like the idea of LilaNur Parfums using Indian horticulture as its inspirational focus. Thanks for the introduction to this fabulous brand. If lucky, I’d choose Agar Épicé, due to the unisex appeal of its notes. Thanks for the opportunity to sniff. Mich USA

  • Although I’ve never been to India, glimpses of the vibrant culture have me enamored. I would to see/smell the florals and spices in these perfumes! The jasmine one Malli Insolite sounds very good- I don’t think I’ve tried a jasmine mixed with mineral notes. In Texas.

  • I loved Ida’s descriptions of all the scents how they all evoke different Indian settings and scentscapes, but I especially enjoyed her description of Incarnation and the complexity of the fragrance’s development and movement. If I win, Incarnation is my pick! I’m in MN, USA.

  • Well if Ida can’t pick one how am I supposed to? I will have to rely on eliminating due to less loved notes and go with Malli Insolite should I be lucky enough to win. In maryland.

  • Thanks for introducing me to LilaNur Parfums Ida!

    I read that some of my favourite perfumers are involved and I’m sure I’d love every single creation. How is one supposed to choose! This literally took me hours to decide!

    I’m particularly fond of Olivier Cresp and love his take on Chypres.Adding an Indian flair makes me super excited to try his latest creation! It sounds like a perfect date night fragrance for me to wear this Fall and look forward to engulf myself in its exuberance! That’s something you can never have enough of!

    I would love to win Incarnation!
    Greetings from the UK!

  • The incarnation sounds very interesting.
    I love the links on the notes.
    The temple incense article is fascinating.
    No doubt this scent has “healing elements.
    Oklahoma USA

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the fantastic review, Ida.

    This is such a fascinating house to read about with the best of Indian horticulture and French house trained perfumers.

    As much as I liked all three, the description of Incarnation and the fact that it is a chypre spoke to me.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • My goodness I cannot wait to smell all of these!! However I am very charmed by the supposedly modest Nagarmotha plant and believe it should be celebrated more! As it is in this Agar Épicé, and I know I can actually smell a glorious authentic sandalwood in Ms. Lila’s blend. Therefore as much as I adore Jasmin etc I would love to receive Agar Épicé, as a gift and a lure for more!
    Opalbear California

  • Hey, a new house I have never heard of yet! I love finding new houses to add to my insanely long list of “To Sample”. All three sound amazing, but I would prefer LilaNur Parfums Incarnation based on the notes, though aldehydes can sometimes go screwy on my skin. Thanks for the draw!! In the US.

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I appreciate learning about this fragrance company and the three fragrances being reviewed. All three fragrances sound good. If I win, then I’d choose “Agar Epice”: I think that it’s interesting that Ida likened it to a warm cup of woody chai. I live in the U.S.A.

  • The LilaNur line sounds like an exceptional profile of India’s floral horticulture, and I like that each showcases a particular note. I also love the bottle design; it’s poised, reservedly colorful, and the cap’s pattern subtly catches the eye. Thank you for the detailed reviews Ida!

    I’m in the USA. I’d love to win the Agar Épicé.

  • Thank you for the reviews Ida. From your descriptions, I also felt your pain picking a favorite. Of the 3 you picked, I’d choose LilaNur Parfums Incarnation if I was lucky to win though any of the 3 does sound astounding. I’m in USA

  • Ida is just a great reviewer and has such an unique soul to describe fragrances. I loved readinga bout this new house and how it represents a mix between Indian and French culture. I am so eager to know these amazing fragrances.
    I would love to win Incarnation please.
    USA here

  • sephrenia300 says:

    Fantastic review Ida! What appealed to me about Ida’s review is her description of Malli Insolite as a combination of sacred incense and rich, honeyed, animalic orange blossom. That sounds heartbreakingly lovely and I cant wait to try it.

    If I were to win, I would pick Incarnation as my first choice. I live in the US

  • Michael Prince says:

    I loved Ida’s review and learning about a new brand LilaNur Parfums “Our name LilaNur represents India’s syncretic culture – Lila is Sanskrit for the illusionary celestial play of Creation and Nur is the Arabic/Persian word for Divine Light.” ~ Anita Lal, New Delhi

  • Michael Prince says:

    I loved Ida’s review and learning about a new brand LilaNur Parfums “Our name LilaNur represents India’s syncretic culture – Lila is Sanskrit for the illusionary celestial play of Creation and Nur is the Arabic/Persian word for Divine Light.” ~ Anita Lal, New Delhi Co-creators Anita Lal and Paul Austin have teamed up with Firmenich Innovation Lab in Grasse and four of their finest French perfumers – Honorine Blanc, Clément Gavarry, Fabrice Pellegrin, and Olivier Cresp. Inspired by India’s horticulture all three of these fragrances LilaNur Malli Insolite, Agar Épicé, and Incarnation sound incredible. If I win I will choose Agar Epice. I am from the USA.