LilaNur Parfums
“Our name LilaNur represents India’s syncretic culture – Lila is Sanskrit for the illusionary celestial play of Creation and Nur is the Arabic/Persian word for Divine Light.” ~ Anita Lal, New Delhi
Co-creators Anita Lal and Paul Austin of LilaNur via FB page
What occurs when two creatives possessed by a passion for Indian flora meet by chance (Is there such a thing as ‘chance’ to begin with?)? In the instance of Indian designer Anita Lal, who has an ongoing love affair with native flora, her career has been fueled by cultural pride – having established a design house named Good Earth in 1996 which celebrates the motifs and lore of her native country – and who, in 2017 (with her daughter Simran) developed a boutique named Paro based upon Vedic principles and fostering well-being. Paul Austin (of the Austin Advisory Group) has worked extensively in the fragrance industry and as a brand expert; his 2009 trip to India left its indelible aromatic imprint, imbuing him with an immense curiosity about (and appreciation for) its exquisitely scented flowering plants. When these two made one another’s acquaintance it culminated in their founding a luxury fragrance house, the very first from India: LilaNur Parfums. Their next move was pure genius: teaming up with the Firmenich Innovation Lab in Grasse and four of their finest French perfumers – Honorine Blanc, Clément Gavarry, Fabrice Pellegrin, and Olivier Cresp. The connection to Grasse is strong: both Messieurs Pellegrin and Cresp are native-born Grasseois, Gavarry spent much of his youth there learning from his master perfumer father Max Gavarry (he later made NYC his home base); Mme. Blanc was born in Beirut, studied in Paris, was mentored by Master Perfumer Sophia Grojsman and settled in NYC.
LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite, Rajni Nocturne, Gul Rouge, Vetiver Mousson, Davana Cafe, Agar Epice and Incarnation
The entire introductory line of LilaNur Parfums is centered around magnificent fragrant materials epitomizing the finest examples of Indian horticulture as its inspirational focus. Each showcases a particular note. In addition to the seven eaux de parfums, there are three attar absolus – rose, tuberose and jasmine – which I’ve yet to experience (I’ll confess that if I had a choice, it would be jasmine!). Having sampled all seven, I found myself unable to pick a favorite – so here are my three favorites, each one unique: LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite, Agar Épicé, and Incarnation.
LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite and Honorine Blanc
LilaNur Parfums Malli Insolite (Honorine Blanc): In the Tamil Nadu region of India, sambac jasmine is known as Madurai Malli: heady star-shaped blooms which appear in garlands, temples, nestled amidst the raven tresses of women, and piled high in baskets at the outdoor markets. Malli Insolite intones wisps of ritual incense and undertones of honeyed orange blossom with an animalic edge – which may be related to the specific Indian sambac absolute employed. There is a soupçon of mentholic pleasure within it (tuberose?) which feels both dissonant and disarmingly lovely. Pink pepper provides a marvelously soft spiciness tinged with a murmur of fruit and faint verdancy. Are there stone steps leading to an ancient sanctuary, where these wreaths lie in wait as offering? Within that sacred space where heaven meets earth, there is a point of convergence which Malli Insolite occupies – that within my heart. Notes: pink pepper, jasmine sambac, tuberose, mineral notes, incense (perceived)
LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé and Fabrice Pellegrin
LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé (Fabrice Pellegrin; “Il faut dans ce bas monde aimer beaucoup de choses, pour savoir après tout – ce qu’on aime le mieux” ~ Alfred de Musset to Victor Hugo. Truer words never spoken – and an oud which enchants as vividly as if one were partaking of a hookah in intimate company. Agar Épicé’s mélange of woods ranging from unctuous to smoky to majestic commences a délice of substance, where ginger sparkles and highlights each characteristic with zingy charm. The wary needn’t fear; there lies no barnyard in wait, no intimidation by virtue of domination. These are tender sorceries: deftly spiced, leather insinuated – not cudgeled. If a warm cup of woody chai were a perfume, LilaNur Parfums Agar Épicé would be its embodiment. Notes: ginger, cypriol oil (nagarmotha), guaiacwood, sandalwood, oud, leather
LilaNur Parfums Incarnation and Olivier Cresp
LilaNur Parfums Incarnation (Olivier Cresp):Chypre may well be as chypre does – but nothing quite so daring, étincellant and startling has come across my path in years. Oh, the richness! Incarnation is swoon-worthy, a head-turning fragrant anomaly. Flashing, pristine aldehydes announce exquisite floral pageantry, lavishly peppered in anticipation. Incarnation’s exuberance never flags, never falls apart: from sparkling commencement to its lavish bouquet to the duskily secretive base, it is unadulterated joy in fluid form. A fascinating and seductive study in aromatic chiaroscuro, Incarnation refuses to relinquish its hold – and all of its scented components continue to hold sway for hours, each voice weaving in and out indefinitely; you never lose sight of any of them throughout its development. LilaNur Parfums Incarnation truly smells like a marriage between India and France – in the most sophisticated manner. Notes: aldehydes, black pepper, Indian jasmine, rose, orris, vetiver, patchouli, labdanum, temple incense
Perhaps now you can appreciate why I couldn’t possibly pick just one. Even choosing three feels like a mother having to choose which child she loves best. LilaNur Parfums is one the most impressive new lines I’ve come across of late.
Samples generously provided by LilaNur – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Thanks to the largesse of LilaNur Parfums, we are offering a reader’s choice of a 100 ml. bottle of either LilaNur Malli Insolite, Agar Épicé, or Incarnation for one registered reader in the USA or UK. You must register or your comment will not count.To be eligible, please tell us what appealed to you about Ida’s review, where you live, and which LilaNur Parfums eau de parfum you would prefer if you win and where you live. Draw close 10/6/2022 and the winner will be announced within two weeks after.
Editor’s Note: LilaNur Parfums launched at Bergdorf Goodman’s in the Fall of 2021 and recently debuted at Harrods in 2022. All images via LilaNur Parfums
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