Le Galion Ferveur, a fragrance that evokes the 1930s, when French perfumer Paul Vacher was also the brand’s owner. Thanks to AI and some chosen keywords (#ferveur, #elegance, #1930s, #chic, #elegance, #Paris), the glass flask is juxtaposed with some essential Parisian symbols – AI picture via Midjourney, bottle ©Le Galion and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Over the past few months, the perfumes introduced during Esxence 2022 are finally ready for official launch. This gives me the opportunity to rediscover them without the distraction of trying to work my way through 300 brands in four days. One such rediscovery is Le Galion Ferveur. Presented in Milan by Nicolas Chabot, who took over 10 years ago the historic French house created in 1930 (on Prince Murat’s initiative), Le Galion Ferveur brought out my childhood memories as well as awakened my olfactory and visual sensibilities. And remember, it was in my Esxence 2022 top 10 perfumes!

Ferveur Le Galion official artwork – ©Le Galion

Nicolas Chabot called on master perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, one of the greatest experts in vintage perfumery, who has an encyclopedic knowledge of remarkable perfumes, brands and perfumers. Already the author of Le Galion Eau Noble (2022 version), Le Galion Bourrasque (2020 version), Le Galion Jasmin (2020 version), Le Galion l’Ame Perdue, Le Galion Cologne and Le Galion Cologne Nocturne, he created the first amber in the collection, paying homage to Paul Vacher, historical perfumer (and owner) of Le Galion, who could have composed this fragrance which moves between vintage and modern; but the signature of Givaudan’s Senior Perfumer is undeniable, skillfully mixing sensuality, richness and boldness. The name “Ferveur” (meaning “Fervor”) perfectly matches the state of passionate elation that this fragrance induces in me.

Nicolas Chabot, Le Galion owner and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Givaudan Senior Perfumer – ©Le Galion and ©Givaudan, montage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

The bottle is exactly the same as the recently launched design which was created for the 50th anniversary of Le Galion Eau Noble going from a slender shape to that of a flask, embracing the famous art-deco styles that are the brand’s DNA. Let me tell you about Pierre Dinand, a prestigious French designer (we owe him, among others, the bottles designed Yves Saint-Laurent Opium, Paco Rabanne Calandre, Paco Rabanne Phantom, Calvin Klein Obsession, Givenchy Ysatis, Neela Vermeire, Map of the Heart and Vilhelm Parfumerie) supported by his grandson Jules, who continues the family tradition (Pierre Dinand also created the original in 1972.) Le Galion Ferveur is reminiscent in its shape of the mythical Dior Eau Sauvage but personally, it reminds me of my father’s whiskey flask that he used to carry in his cello case.

Le Galion Ferveur 100 ml bottle, designed by Pierre and Jules Dinand – ©Le Galion.

Back to my Le Galion Ferveur discovery at Esxence 2022: in the midst of the multitude of perfumes I was able to smell, often with a complex and unexpected composition, the creation of Rodrigo Flores-Roux immediately transported me to the late 70s, the time of my first concrete olfactory memories. A father wearing Clinique Aromatics Elixir, a mother alternating between Estée Lauder Cinnabar and Yves Saint-Laurent Opium: these are my references, which inevitably remain anchored in my olfactory affect. At the first (and only spray), I almost fell backwards: my heart started to beat faster, and a burst of emotion rose within me. It-was-just-beautiful! A real emotional pull, that lasted for many months in my imagination, since Nicolas Chabot had no sample available in Milan.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s quote on Le Galion Ferveur – artwork ©Le Galion, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Now, I can finally review this timeless fragrance.  From the start, you can smell the amazing raw materials that are used; the opening is like fireworks composed of bergamot, clary sage, cypress and myrtle, where the spicy, chypre and woody notes take the ascendancy from the first seconds. A thunderous start that is reminiscent of a mix between Guerlain Habit Rouge and Yves Saint-Laurent Opium pour Homme, two sublime fragrances playing on the contrasts between aromatics, spices and resins. As the minutes go by, the intensity never weakens, as other ingredients come into play: the iris brings a vintage powdery facet, combined with a delicate rose with a hint of honey.  Vanilla joins the celebration, with a controlled sweetness and a  warm glowing crescendo. In the background, incense gains momentum, carried by balms and spices. Rodrigo Flores-Roux has the talent of giving majesty to raw materials, not hesitating to mix them in skillfully studied proportions where each one blazes without stifling the others. Coriander brings its tonicity and cinnamon leaf its exoticism in the midst of a sumptuous leather-wood-balm alliance that clings to the skin with intensity. Le Galion Ferveur is one of those perfumes that captivates from the very first seconds, and whose effect does not weaken throughout its evolution. Thanks to its remarkable longevity, I appreciate being still able to smell it when I wake up, warm and reassuring.

 Notes: green bergamot, clary sage, myrtle, cypress, iris, rose, coriander, cinnamon tree leaf, vanilla, styrax, Tolu balsam, patchouli, vetiver, incense, leather.

Disclaimer: A “mille mercis” to Le Galion for the 10 ml Ferveur sample bottle provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.

Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador

Le Galion Ferveur 100 ml bottle at Esxence – ©Emmanuelle Varron

Thanks to Le Galion, we have a 100 ml bottle of Ferveur for one registered reader in USA, UK and EU. To be eligible, please tell us how you feel about Emmanuelle’s review and where you live.  Are you familiar with Le Galion? Draw closes 11/04/2022.

Le Galion Ferveur is available on the brand’s website and will be available at on Jovoy Paris’s website before worldwide distribution  worldwide.

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