Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris (Jean-Christophe Hérault) 2022 + The Nutcracker Giveaway

March 13, 2023March 13, 2023

Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris – Background image via Midjourney, bottle ©Jacques Fath and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.

Vetiver is a safe bet in perfumery, and among my favorites are Guerlain Vetiver Extrême, Lalique Encre Noire, Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental, Chanel Sycomore or recently the beautiful Parfum d’Empire Vetiver Bourbon. It was at Esxence 2022, last June, that I noticed Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris, and its inventiveness made it one of my favorites of the event. I was invited early December 2022 by Creative Director Rania Barakat Naim (Fath’s Essentials and Panouge), for an exclusive presentation at the brand headquarters in Paris. Finally, Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris is available to the general public after these months of waiting.

Rania Barakat Naim, Jacques Fath Creative Director and Jean-Christophe Hérault, Vice President of Perfumery IFF – ©Jacques Fath and ©Michael Avedon.

As I wrote in my “Esxence 2022 Best of show”, there is an interesting story linked to Jean-Christophe Hérault, the composer of Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris. He approached Rania Barakat Naim and offered to create a perfume for the brand… via her Instagram (we were then in the middle of the COVID period). Madame Naim politely refused, since she only works with independent perfumers. But the ultra-motivated requests from (the now Vice President of Perfumery, IFF) finally convinced the Creative Director (especially since the perfume created by Jean-Christophe Hérault not only won her over, but also her husband and son when ultimately tested before it was given the green light).

Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris was first shown at Esxence 2022 last June – ©Emmanuelle Varron

The name is a tribute to Jacques Fath Iris Gris, the brand’s legendary perfume created in 1947 by Vincent Roubert, relaunched as L’Iris de Fath in 2018 thanks young perfumer Patrice Revillard impressive work (and whose sublime Eau de Parfum version will be released this spring!). Jean-Christophe Hérault, who admires the brand’s heritage approach, has thus embarked on an ambitious challenge: that of creating a perfume that respects the Jacques Fath’s historical codes: refinement, modernity, and an imaginative “couture” spirit. And, being inspired by Marcel Proust “In search of lost time” aesthetics of emotions and thoughts. The formula is built around a vetiver-galbanum-hazelnut trio getting straight to the point.

Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris and soon-to-be-released L’Iris de Fath in its eau de parfum version – ©Emmanuelle Varron.

If I appreciate vetiver aesthetically and olfactively, my skin has become much less fond of it over the past few years. Mystery of the human body, my favorite perfumes suddenly lost their luster once sprayed on my skin, becoming harsh and rough after a few minutes. With Vetiver Gris, I had the pleasant surprise of discovering vetiver with nice round lines, wrapped in a delicious hazelnut cloud that amplifies over the hours. The opening is sparkling, with citrus notes (mandarin and bigarade orange) that set the tone from the first seconds. Neroli brings its soft and comforting light, like an innocent caress. Then Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris gets an aristocratic dash under the effect of geranium for a fresh and sophisticated floral touch, while accentuating the root facet of vetiver with the addition of iris. But it takes on an additional dimension as the galbanum brings a few olfactory flashes of a raw greenness, giving the fragrance a 3D dimension. Galbanum is the perfect match for the complex vetiver that Jean-Christophe Hérault treated both in its Java and Haiti version, with earthy, smoky and aromatic tones. But the return to sweetness is not far off: the inspired hazelnut accord takes possession of my skin after a few minutes, enveloping it in a delicious gourmet and musky sweetness… never to leave it. The vetiver markers are still identifiable but have taken a step back here, leaving the hazelnut to round things off, perfectly wearable for me.

Casse-Noisette ballet, featuring the young Clara and the nutcracker – ©Nikolai Krusser.

If Jean-Christophe Hérault was inspired by Marcel Proust, my imagination took me to my childhood memories spent at the Paris Opera: more precisely to Casse-Noisette (The Nutcracker), one of Piotr Ilitch’s Tchaikovsky most famous ballets; the story of a wooden puppet offered to a little girl who in her dreams comes to life as Prince Charming. Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris hazelnut accord allowed me to venture towards a less academic interpretation of vetiver, but respectful of codes. An olfactory varnish that provides a very welcomed softness.

Notes: mandarin essence, hazelnut accord, Orange bigarade LMR, Neroli essence LMR, Geranium essence Madagascar LMR, Galbanum resinoid LMR, Iris concrete LMR, Vetiver Java LMR, Vetiver Haiti Concentrated for Life LMR, Sinfonide™.

Disclaimer: A big merci to Jacques Fath for the Vetiver Gris sample provided for this review. The opinions expressed are my own.

Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador

Thanks to Jacques Fath and Fath’s Essentials, we have a 100 ml bottle of Vetiver Gris for one registered reader in USA, UK and EU. To be eligible, please tell how you feel about Emmanuelle’s review of Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris and where you live. Draw closes 03/17/2023.

Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris is available on the brand’s website and on Jovoy Paris’s website.

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