Gentleman’s Nod SIDAMA bottle, photo by Rachel K. Ng
My neighborhood in Paris, colloquially known as the Goutte d’Or (drop of gold), is one of the most prominent African communities in the city, situated in the 18th arrondissement. During a quiet dinner with my Parisian roommates near Marché Dejean, I discovered the beautiful ritual of real Ethiopian coffee. The fruity-floral complexity of my first cup has remained a rich olfactive reference. The Ethiopian town of Sidama is widely regarded as the birthplace of coffee, and Chris Christiansen of Gentleman’s Nod has taken Ethiopian coffee, its nuances and complexity as the spark of inspiration for Gentleman’s Nod SIDAMA.
Chris Christiansen of Gentleman’s Nod and Ugo Charron of MANE collage
Chris enlisted MANE perfumer Ugo Charron to create SIDAMA which was nominated as a Finalist for an Art and Olfaction 2024 Independent award. This perfume is truly unique and I can understand why it was shortlisted. It opens with a striking coffee note that captures the especially fruity aspects of real Ethiopian coffee and facets of blueberry and raspberry mix with the slightly caramelized, almost nutty coffee notes.
Ethiopian coffee beans via unsplash
Ethiopian coffee is known for its sweet fruity flavor, shot through with a jasmine aspect. The rum absolute used helps to add a sweetly spiced nuance. A white floral softness surrounds a juicy peach/apricot note. There is a natural coffee resinoid used in the fragrance which extends as a through-note for an unusually long time into the heart (a great accomplishment, as real coffee materials do not tend to linger in fragrance).
courtesy of the brand
Gentleman’s Nod SIDAMA continues to deepen and sweeten into its heart with dark chocolate, iris, and Tropicalone™. The MANE material Tropicalone™ adds tropical fruit into the mix, with aspects of passion fruit, pineapple, and mangosteen, highlighting their creamy and milky nuances. Softly sweet iris blends beautifully with dark chocolate and leads us into the woodsy ambery dry down featuring coffee wood, vetiver, Oranox™ and patchouli. The transition from heart to dry down brings out an exceptional facet to this fragrance. The deepness turns to dark wood and stoic contemplation. There is a sense of calm, shelter and strength, even wisdom, to SIDAMA that brings to mind ancient gathering in Ethiopia. I imagine the coffee wood has something to do with this sensation, as the vetiver and patchouli offer their usual comforts. Oranox™ is an ambergris substitute material made from clary sage that provides subtle glints of light and warmth in the dry down. Had I smelled this last year, it would have made my Best of Scent. Looking forward to exploring more fragrances from Gentleman’s Nod.
Notes: coffee, rum absolute, apricot, mixed berries, Tropicalone™, iris, dark chocolate, coffee wood, vetiver, Orcanox™, patchouli
Bottle my own, opinions my own.
~ Rachel K. Ng, Senior Contributor
Gentleman’s Nod SIDAMA courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Gentleman’s Nod, we have a 50 ml bottle of SIDAMA for a registered ÇaFleureBon reader in the USA & CANADA ONLY, (if you are not sure if you are registered click here – you must register on our site or your entry will be invalid). To be eligible please leave a comment on this site with what strikes you about Rachel’s review and where you live. Draw Closes 6/15/2024
Chris Christiansen of Gentleman’s Nod is 177th in our American perfumer series, read his profile here.
I had the pleasure of meeting Mane Perfumer Ugo Charron at the World Perfumery Congress 2022. Ugo was named Michelyn’s Rising Star of 2022 and was recently featured in our ÇaFleurebon’s Young Perfumers series (read his path to perfumery here.) Ugo also received a 2023 Art and Olfaction Golden Pear award for Saskia by Grandiflora Fragrances with perfumer extraordinaire Christoph Laudamiel.
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