Karl at the Dubai Marina©
I enjoy expressing the impact of scents throughout my travels and whilst there may not be a singular pervasive smell, which I can link to a location I have visited there are a collection of olfactive experiences that connect me to a destination. In this article I have chosen five perfumes which I feel represent the feel of Dubai. From landing in DXB Dubai International Airport to arriving in The Meydan Hotel I was aware of the smell of Bakhoor (Arabic incense) this scent seemed to be pumped through air conditioning units. Whilst it was not unpleasant there was a synthetic element which my nose struggled with. This for me is not nearly enough to represent the nuance and beauty of the richness of this part of the world. However, it seems the go to buy for tourists returning to the west along with artificial replacements for traditional oud.
Liquides Imaginaires Dubai Mall boutique by Karl ©
A fragrance, which stole my heart immediately and beautifully mimicked the bright morning sun and warmth of the terraces whilst enjoying breakfast was Liquides Imaginaires Desert Suave. I discovered it whilst walking through the Dubai Mall. The boutique is a sight to behold and is an artistic installation, which fuses the spiritual, mystical and symbolic virtues of olfaction. Founded by Phillipe Di Meo and David Frossard in 2012 Liquides Imaginaires intrigued me both in terms of concept, presentation and high-class perfumery. Desert Suave by perfumers Quentin Bisch and Nisrine Grillie is an olfactive oasis where spices, dried fruits and woods create an atmospheric sanctuary. In the air it is such a delicious and intoxicating scent that I would compare it to a mirage, almost illusionary and provides an accord of hot air and seems so good that one questions if it really exists. The special blend of cardamom, mandarin, orange blossom brings across the sunlight, whilst the rose, date and sesame combination are mouth-watering the base of cedar adds a gentle and smooth depth.
Next on my list is Kalit Medina launched in 2022 and composed by master perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer. Kalit translating from Moroccan means mixture. Medina is foremost a spicy scent with an indolic and honeyed quality to it. Whilst there is an initial lightness to the perfume in the opening from bergamot and lemon leaves, it quickly transitions into a slightly carnal heated body nuance. The combination of clove, coriander, cumin and cinnamon could be interpreted as over the top. In this case it adds just a touch of raunch to the scent which slowly morphs into an earthy and woody experience via vetiver, amyris and Atlas Cedar. In fact, I regularly layer it with Desert Suave to create an exceptional evening scent.
Gallivant Abu Dhabi is a more contemplative perfume. Slightly cool and transparent, Lucas Sieuzac has created a breezy perfume, which transports me to boat trips around the marina where the white sail bustles in the wind. There is a slight petroleum element mid-way through the wearing which connects one to the urban metropolis of Dubai, whilst the woods in the base and leathery facets evoke the experience of lattice wooden panels associated with controlling the heat of the environment.
Villa 515 by Karl©
Azman Song For A Wanderer by Chris Maurice is a distinctive perfume which I think represents the truly modern aspects of how the Middle East has fast become the place of choice for today. It fuses both Eastern and Western olfactory influences from zesty to smoky to smooth and earthy. There is a little bit of everything here to enjoy. It takes me back to my visit of Villa 515, an unconventional Arabic villa which is a must for fragrance aficionados and those who love to do brunch in a beautiful setting.
A collection of scented souvenirs of Dubai would not be complete without an outstanding oud-based perfume. My selection is Amouage Opus VIII Silver Oud by Cecile Zarokian. The richness of this perfume makes it a leathery, amber and animalic stunner. This is a scent for those who wish to experience Oud Assam Oil blended with a wealth of woods for a challenging and complex experience. To my nose it is a dichotomy of burning woods and smooth resins. It brings out the emotions of masculine and feminine energies, slightly contradictory but somehow these polarising notes work in unison. It transports me to evenings strolling the Madinat Jumeirah, where the traditional boats, waterways and market mingle with palatial hotels and villas close to the Burj Al Arab.
From our personal collections of bottles, decants and samples either purchased or gifted
-Karl Topham, Senior Editor
Dubai inspired Perfume Collage by Karl and Michelyn bottle courtesy of the brands and Burj Al Arab unplash
Thanks to Michelyn and Karl, we have 5 ml decants of Liquides Imaginaires Desert Suave and Azman Song For A Wanderer for a reader in either in the USA or UK. There is one winner. The draw is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appeals to you about Karl’s scented souvenirs of Dubai and where you live. Draw closes 02/14/23.
Please also read: 1000 days in Dubai CaFleureBon by perfumer and contributor Pierre Constantin Gueros here.
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