Etat Libre D’Orange Tom of Finland Review (Antoine Lie) 2007 + Fantasy Leather Draw

Tom of Finland Etat libre d'Orange review

Stars of the Tom of Finland biopic from left: Lauri Tilkanen, Pekka Strang and Kaija Jessica Grabowsky. Image: Josef Persson (2017)

 Etienne de Swardt, declared his independence from “business as usual” in 2006. Freeing himself from the predictable sterility of market driven fragrance and beauty, he formed his own perfume house where he brought to life a new freedom of expression in fragrance.  For more than a decade, Etat Libre d’Orange has been creating evocative,  sometimes challenging scents that push the limits of perfumery while maintaining a sense of ironic whimsy, wrapped around distinctive fragrance profiles that are inspired by culture, the arts, technology, cinema, heroes, heroines, …creative storytelling (a great example was the recent She was an Anomaly, by Daniela Andrier that Lauryn Beer reviewed).

Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libred D'Orange

Etienne de Swardt at Esxence 2014 (photo by Tama Blough RIP)

When I met Etienne for the launch of Rossy de Palma in NYC in 2009 (at the now shuttered Henri Bendel’s) it was my first exposure to perfumer Antoine Lie as well. Which brings us to one of the earlier releases from the house, Tom of Finland.  

Tom of Finland Etat Libre d'Orange review

via Etat Libre D’Orange

 For more than a decade, Etat Libre d’Orange has been creating evocative, challenging scents that push the limits of perfumery while maintaining a sense of ironic whimsy, wrapped around distinctively luxurious fragrance profiles.  So who was Tom of Finland?  His real name was Touko Valio Laaksonen a Finnish artist known for his stylized highly masculine erotic fetish art, and for his influence on late twentieth century gay culture. “Straight, gay… These words are irrelevant here. Tom of Finland is beyond sexuality — he is sex, in all its fullness and magnitude”-Etienne de Swardt

Editor Sebastian Jara’s review

Like the artist it was named for  Etat Libre D’Orange Tom of Finland straddles the line between in your face and enigmatic, including its use of ingredients.  Etat Libre D’Orange Tom of Finland uses a Givaudan material called Safraleine©, arid and dry giving the impression of leather, cedar and saffron. Yet it’s not a heavy leather, as the tonka and vanilla at the drydown leads Tom of Finland into the gourmand territory. It’s a marvelous fragrance and not often reviewed these days-Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

 

Etat Libre D'Orange Tom Of Finland Review

Tom of Finland bottle by Sebastian

Thanks to Europerfumes the US distributor and to Etienne de Swardt, we have we have ONE 100 ml  bottle for a registered CaFleureBon reader and Looking Feeling Smelling Great subscriber in the USA only. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Sebastian’s review of Tom of Finland and where you live. Draw closes 11/11/2019.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @etatlibredorange @lookfeelsmellgreat @antoinelieolfactiveexperience@official_europerfumes, @twistedlily @zgoperfumery @madameaucoinperfume

We announce the winners only on our website so like Cafleurebon and use our blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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73 comments

  • MICHAEL BEECHAM says:

    Just finished watching Sebastian’s review of Tom Of Finland’s review on his YouTube channel where I’m an ardentsubscriber, and i love how he describes the main notes of the fragrance of saffron, leather to be specific suede, tonka vanilla and the rest of the notes which smells like spicey leathery woody warm notes

  • Bryant Worley says:

    What struck me about Sebastian’s review was the Safraleine, Givaudan’s innovation. That, alone, makes it worth getting, in conjunction with the fact that I am a Leather fan. Add in the sweetness, and it becomes even more interesting. I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • What interested me in Sabastian’s reveiew was the description of the suede note. I haven’t come across many fragrances that have this note and now I’m interested. Thank you!

  • Shamrock1313 says:

    Sebastian did a great review and this one sounds right up my alley – suede, vanilla, Tonka – warm and spicy. Would love to be the lucky winner of this one.
    Pennsylvania USA

  • I haven’t really seen many reviewers talk about this brand. Good to see it get a little attention.

  • I’m a big fan of Sebastian, hisbreviews are always so thorough and descriptive. I particularly am interested because or the Safraleine which I’ve yet to experience and also to try a leather with vanilla and tonka. I have not tried anything from ELDO yet but would love to. In CT USA. Thanks to everyone involved for the draw.

  • Never smelled safraleine before, or bearch leaves for that matter.
    That said, Sebastian’s description of it as a spicy, leathery, woody warm note sounds fantastic. Also intrigued by Sebastian’s impression of the fragrance transition from bright to dark to sweet and buttery. Thanks for the draw. Regards from Boston USA.

  • Great review Sebastian. After watching your video I too did not think that the perfumer would go in a more gentle direction in terms of note structure. Given the history of the brand and its aesthetic, I thought this would be right up there with zoologist rhino!! After watching your video that does not seem to be the case. Sounds like a lovely frag tho. Cheers!

  • ThatMulattoDude says:

    Great content by Sebastian. Not really into the story behind the fragrance but the notes seem interesting. Would like to try this one out.

  • I enjoyed how Sebastian described the Safraleine© material used in this fragrance. Cheers from Oregon, USA!

  • Ahmed Hamoda says:

    Great review from Sebastian as usual. I’m interested to try this one. I’m big fan of leather notes. Thanks for sharing

  • I love leather as a note. The name of the fragrance scared me as well. I was sure it would be an austere leather with some metallic notes. Glad to hear it veers more towards the gourmand. I liked Sebastian’s description of the Safraleine compound. I live in the US

  • I always love Sebastian’s accurate descriptions. His profile of Tom of Finland has show the fragrance to be something different from my expectation. I’ll have to give it a try. Fragrance fan from West Virginia.

  • Leave it to ELDO to do a Tom of Finland branded scent! I’m not a fan of the source material but I do like the listed notes. I’m always on the lookout for a good leather fragrance. Great review, Sebastian! I’m in the US

  • I love Sebastian’s reviews. He is extremely thorough and detailed with his reviews and give sensible information as to how, where & why to wear whatever scent he appreciates. He is the Elsa Klensch of Scent. Tom of Finland sounds enticing . I am obsessed with Leather scents especially when paired well & not too woodsy. I would love the opportunity to try it. I currently live in Nevada, USA.

  • Safraleine is such an interesting ingredient to showcase. I’ve been exploring it lately myself and find it difficult. I’m sure the tonka and vanilla tone it down nicely.

  • What struck me most about this review was that I had been curious about this fragrance and was happy that someone finally reviewed it. I am a fan of the house but being a lady was unsure if I could pull off what I thought might be a hyper masculine fragrance. But it sounds right up my alley. I’m in California, USA

  • Sebastian’s review of this warm, buttery suede / vanilla fragrance is timely; we’re already freezing on the East Coast. VA, USA.

  • Khalil Nasir says:

    I am interested in smelling a buttery leather from the description Sebastian gave, live in USA

  • Ismael D Rodriguez says:

    Great review by Sebastian. Tom of Finland sounds like a very interesting leather fragrance. I like the smell of a well done leather fragrance. I trust Sebastian. His reviews are usually spot on and reliable. I would love to have this fragrance.

  • One of my friends said that Tom of Finland smells exactly like lube on condoms.So thank you for your review I appreciate it :)Roseville,Ca.

  • Andrei artimon says:

    I am a big saffron lover , and sebastien just made me want to really out my nose on this one , because it seems like a different leather fragrance , not like the usual one , new york , usa .

  • I’ve been looking for a leather fragrance…and I love my other Etat Libre d’Orange scents. Can’t wait to sample.

  • Sunny Chaudhary says:

    I love Sebastian’s reviews. He is extremely thorough and detailed with his reviews and give sensible information as to how, where & why to wear whatever scent he appreciates.

    Tom of Finland sounds enticing and to be honest i never heard of them before. I like Leather scents especially when paired well & not too woody. I would love the opportunity to try it.

    I currently live in Atlanta, USA.

    Sunny

  • Tom of Finland sounds so sexy with its buttery suede, iris, gourmand touches from vanilla and tonka bean.Wow!! I truly wish to have a sniff of a gorgeous gift. Outstanding review by Sebastian who explains the scent profile very well. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA.

  • It’s possibly unisex? OK, Sebastian, I’ll be looking into this one. I like that it’s sparkly up front and darker later. The birchwood note sounds interesting. Wonderful review. Thanks for the opportunity to sniff! USA

  • As a fan of Daim Blond, Sebastian had me at suede. Drool. I’d love to see how it makes it’s way through the cypress note! A bright beginning and a buttery finish sounds divine. Great review! I live in the USA.

  • It was a pleasure to hear that this fragrance verges into gourmand territory. I’m also curious about the suede note he mentioned that turns the composition into a very buttery, smooth direction. I am completely fascinated. (Commenting from USA)

  • wallygator88 says:

    I love Sebastian’s opening with this one. The notes are fascinating and require a readup on my part.

    Love from Madison, WI

  • Benji Stegner says:

    When I read the name of this one, I needed to know more. Hearing Sebastian describe this fragrance as a buttery, almost gourmand leather fragrance, I knew that I wanted to smell this for myself. I always enjoy watching his reviews and would love to try a scent from the house of Etat Libre D’Orange. I live in Gainesville, Georgia.

  • Sebastian says it is suedey leather which is probably the effect of saffron. My fav. from line is Jasmin et Cigarette. I am in US

  • Desean Tucker says:

    I’ve been thinking about buying this for a while, and Sebastian’s review just solidified it for me. The descriptions he gave sounds right up my alley. I live in Georgia(US), but I’m aware of the story that inspired this fragrance.

  • Wilson Siavichay says:

    I just saw sebastian review, and this fragrance sounds unique and perfect for fall and winter season, leathery, spicy, sweetness, I love to have it.

  • sourovrayhan says:

    Sebastian’s review of Tom of Finland, to sum it up- I was just going through YouTube, and stumbled upon his channel. The way he describes perfumes, and especially this one in particular, I was not only impressed, but it was brilliant. Wearing a fragrance with saffron, vanilla, and also the twist of piny ingredients would definitely turn some heads due to its uniqueness! I hope to try this someday. I am in Syracuse, NY, USA.

  • Loved watching Sebastian review of this jewel frag. The thing that struck me about Tom of Finland review by Sebastian was the notes, which made me look at this frag with a smile. A winter sweet frag has always intrigued me. I would love to try this frag in the winter night out on the town.

  • I found it interesting that this fragrance has a bright/citrusy opening but then darkened up later on. Sounds fairly complex so I’m intrigued! I’m in California, USA.

  • Having smelled this offering myself I agree there is a sweetness to the leather and this fragrance is also not overtly masculine. It’s blended well to be sure. US

  • patrick_348 says:

    I liked how Sebastian explained what Safraleine is and how he pointed out the leathery quality of saffron as a note. I like Sebastian’s willingness to go back and look at fragrances that have been around a while and have perhaps not gotten the attention they need. He makes Tom of Finland sound appealing in its balance of woods, leather, and gourmand notes. I am in the US, in North Carolina.

  • Punit halyal says:

    Great review and this looks right up my alley as I oov leather, iris and buttery powedery undertones of a leather fragrace. Would love to try it for sure. I am from India but USA delivery is not a problem as I have a US address.

  • Being and working in marketing for a long period of time , i do not fall easily into marketing traps like provocative campaigns , names , slogans or bottles.I will sample “Tom of Finland ” because of the:
    a) Notes – result intrigues me the most . Iris , vanilla , and buttery leather.
    b) I like Antoine Lie , Wonderwood Comme des Garcons is a beauty .
    c) Then comes the nice job done by Sebastian, his review was really good , as usual.
    I do have one Etat Libre d’Orange fragrance in my collection.When i was young, my grandma was growing pumpkins, and i’m so used to pumpkin pies , cakes , soups , cheesecakes and so on.I was looking for fragrances with pumpkin accord and then blind-bought Tilda Swinton Like This , and i love it .
    Thank you for the giveaway.
    USA

  • I have a sample of tom of Finland and love it. Thank you for the giveaway and explaining what safraleine is. I also enjoyed clicking on the review of she was an anomaly
    USA

  • This was a very interesting description of the suede note. I always enjoy any review by Sebastian.I’d love to try this. Thanks for the review and the draw. I’m in the USA

  • westseattlejohn says:

    Hi. Fan of Milton Brown Russian Leather. Looking forward to trying Tom of Finland. Thanks.

  • westseattlejohn says:

    Hi. Fan of Molton Brown Russian Leather. Looking forward to trying Tom of Finland. Wonder if this will go with my Mr. S custom chaps? 🙂
    Thanks for the review!

  • Iris and leather is modern day classic combination of notes. Throw some woodyness and vanilla, and we have a winner.
    My favorite Etat Libre d’Orange – Remarkable People and You or Someone like You . Own the second one. I’m also curious about the pumpkin one Like This . Hope it’s not disconnected , because last 4 times it was not available at local boutiques.
    Enjoyed the review , and thanks for the draw.
    USA

  • Buttery suede leather, a bit powdery fragrance, leaning towards gourmand…
    Despite the provocative name , packaging and fetishes written all over Tom of Finland, calming and somehow happy fragrance is what I imagine right now.
    I’ve sampled “I am trash” because of Despina Veneti take on Cafleurebon last autumn, and bought it a week after. Again because of Lauryn Beer “She Was an Anomaly” review bought a sample, but I’m still waiting for it to arrive. Now I have to check another one.
    Thanks to all involved in this giveaway.
    USA

  • Sound like a good fragrance. This is one of their older releases which I didn’t know. I like it being citrusy with some spice and leather. Thanks, Ca

  • I so love the uniqueness of this fragrance. Sebastian did a great job describing the suede with a touch of sweetness. I almost get this plastic rubber kind of smell from it with a touch of powder. Tom of Finland’s art work is also quite amazing and erotic. This fragrance could have gone so wrong yet it’s so right and would love to own this beauty. I have cherished my small sample for quite some time. Thanks for a great review Sebastian. Always a pleasure. In the USA, Okla.

  • first the citrus, then the safraleine (which sounds really interesting) with birch, pine, cypress, followed by vanilla, tonka bean, and suede!—intrigued in NorCal

  • I always love Sebastian’s reviews and his note descriptions. He got me with the description of very warm, buttery suede beautifully mixed with vanilla and tonka bean. In addition, Tom of Finland also has iris which is another favorite note of mine. I’m in USA

  • I do own 2 Etat Libre d’Orange frags- 100 ml’s of You Or Someone Like (gift) and Like This – extremely underrated fragrance that always makes me happy .
    I also know Tom of Finland. The opening reminds me of Tom Ford Azure Lime , which Antoine Lie also created, well co-created to be precise. Then in the heart and the base the two are very different. Gourmand territory ? I’m sorry Michelyn, but NO. Yes there is slight sweetness from the vanilla and the tonka, but if you like gourmands like I do , and you’re used to sweet fragrances… It’s nowhere near gourmand territory.
    Bitter citruses in the opening, creamy powdery suede leather with slightly sweet nuances from the vanilla is what I get.
    Already follow Cafleurebon, Etat Libre d’Orange Europerfumes, Antoine Lie and Sebastian on Instagram.
    Top opportunity, thanks.USA

  • I like that the tonka and vanilla gives this fragrance more of a gourmand feel to it. I love leather notes but not when it’s the dominating scent. It really sounds wonderful.
    I live in the US.

  • Michael Prince says:

    Sebastian, great review of Tom of Finland. I think I would really enjoy this fragrance with the fresh bright opening, a light smooth leather mixing with spicy saffron and cedar, and a very sweet gourmandish base of vanilla, tonka, suede, and powdery iris. I am from Ohio, USA. Thank you for the giveaway.

  • Jorge Hurtado says:

    Ehat makes me curious about Sebastian’s review is the gourmandish side of this leather fragance; something that’s a bit unexpected in this kind of fragrances. I hope i can get to smell it myself. I live in Brooklyn NY

  • Good old Tom of Finland giveaway 🙂
    Be VERY CAREFUL , because the packaging is NOT gift appropriate for most traditionally raised people in the States. Sebastian or Michelyn should have mentioned that there’s gay pornographic images inside of the box.
    Long story short I was kicked out of the house of my ex girlfriend back in 2014 , because I gave a bottle of Tom of Finland to my future father in law. I was aware of the smell, because of my sample, but not of the gay porn images inside of the box .
    The opening of Tom of Finland is s bit of a cacophony, but it settles down to pleasing vanilla , suede leather , smoky vetiver and rubber.
    The rubber in Tom of Finland reminds of the rubber in the classic Bulgari Black.
    Fat Electrician is my favorite Etat Libre d’Orange. No doubt it’s unique . Combination of vetiver and the cream is done very well. On me Fat Electrician is actual gourmand, and not some semi-sweet fragrance. I mean is more sweet and eatable, than earthy and smoky.
    Appreciate the review , and the giveaway campaign
    USA

  • In late 2019 how you will promote your products is really important, and I do admit Tom of Finland backstory is catchy, but quite often brands and overdoing it , and it leads the attention away from the scent itself.
    So let’s forget all the hype about gay/straight, naughty marketing, condom smell, Village People and all the other stuff , and focus on the smell alone.
    Citrusy and aldehydes opening , that smooths into leathery and musky base. Vanilla and iris should make it pleasant, slightly sweet and warm.
    Remarkable People is my favorite Etat Libre d’Orange, I should have got the 100ml bottle, instead of 50ml.
    Beautiful giveaway, thanks a lot.
    USA

  • I didn’t know about suede notes before. Thanks Sebastian for opening my eyes to this one. I love leather fragrances.
    I live in USA

  • m.r.everything says:

    Tom of Finland is one of those fragrances that has been on my sample list for a while…. it seems like I say that a lot, and that is because I do! I have quite a few on my 20 page Excel list, haha! But that is okay…. until I hit the lottery, that list is going to continue to grow faster than it will shrink! I have quite a few samples from Etat Libre D’Orange and a few full bottles! The fragrances are very controversial, but that is what I love about them! They are unique and different. They don’t smell like anything else on the market, and I love them for that! I love that Sebastian has been reviewing a few of the older scents as well as the newer releases. Re-visiting these scents, not only brings them to the spotlight for people that have never heard of them, but puts them back in to my mind, and has been making me get back into these brands or particular fragrances! Sebastian recommends this if you like vanilla and tonka bean in a gourmand leather fragrance…. what?!?! right up my alley! Gourmand fragrances are some of my favorite fragrances ever… you throw in leather with the gourmand notes, and this is definitely a winner! Thank you, Sebastian, for the great review on Tom of Finland, and thank you for bringing this one back to memory! Thank you to team CaFleureBon and Etienne de Swardt, as well as Europerfumes, for putting this very generous and super amazing opportunity together for us all! I live in Delaware, US! Good luck to everyone and enjoy the rest of your night!

  • lookingfeelingsmellinggreat says:

    This is certainly a great leather fragrance but not what I would imagine connected with the imagery of Tom Of Finland but that’s what makes it interesting. I love this warm, buttery, soft suede leather especially during the fall months as it acts like a warm, cozy leather blanket. Very nice and I’m very happy to have reviewed Tom Of Finland finally! 🙂

  • Darryl Farrington says:

    This house is new to me very intriguing. Thanks as always to Sebastian for thedeep dish knowledge.

  • LightningRain says:

    What strikes me is Sabastian’s passion for the brand and his dissection of this amazing leather fragrance. -From Texas, USA