DSH Perfumes L’Or (ris) Artwork by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
“This perfume came in a dream. Sometimes that’s how it happens…”
In slumber, a golden iris, one that sparkles as if gilded at the edges and illuminated from within, is every bit as possible as the silvery purple flower that glories in late spring gardens. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz dreamed such an iris: lyrically lovely as a flower sonnet, fashioned of velvet and silk, sparkling like a giddy topaz but breathing its ethereal perfume as if dancing to the breeze just outside the bedroom window.
Photo by Luki for Hian Tjen ad
DSH Perfumes Golden Iris, (now titled L’Or (ris)) from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, is an irresistibly gorgeous, jewel-like fragrance, and the the second in a trilogy of iris perfumes (The first, Iris Tuxedo, was reviewed by Senior Editor Ida Meister.). As she relates on her website, the fragrance came to Spencer Hurwitz as she lay asleep: “The sparkling, golden iris floats, fluttering both silk and velvet, emitting its beautifully creamy, powdery, floral and yes, enigmatic, perfume. This was my dream. I awoke with this lovely fragrance still in my nose and in my consciousness. The next day I began painting the golden iris and sketching the fragrance. L’Or(ris) is the dreamy, golden orris perfume.”
Dawn Spencer Hurtwitz via DSH Perfumes, Instagram
I’ve never before encountered an iris that twinkled as it left the bottle, but DSH Perfumes L’Or (ris) begins like the ending of those poignant fireworks that glitter brightly at their last moments of falling. There’s a tickly sensation as aldehydes begin to fizzle and a grapey-metallic prosecco note bounces and pings before settling into some downy iris and dark purple violet.
The flowers intensify while the fizz quiets down as L’Or(ris) spreads out. A vein of bitter chocolate trickles through briefly, followed by milky, verdant jasmine, the candied delicacy of angelica, and another helping of iris, with touches of rice powder and that characteristic French pastry dough sweetness that this flower always has for me. Cooler now, L’Or (ris) turns platinum and beams.
Image via Iris Van Herpen
For hours, I sit with this iris. It makes me smile as I watch the rain.
Later still, creamy, smoothed sandalwood warms everything back up. There’s a subtle fruitiness I hadn’t noticed before, possibly from ambrette seed, and fluffy pink rose joins the mix. Rose is such a natural optimist that the iris seems quite chipper once more. I do get that metallic tang from the opening again, but it is less pronounced. Wood notes fill in the fragrance with quiet warmth, and glows like rose gold now.
There are many beautiful iris perfumes out there. But most are chilly affairs, flowers for the wistful, the soulful, the silent. DSH Perfumes L’Or (ris) bubbles and gleams with such infectious joie de vivre that even in these bleak hours, it feels like it was made for dancing under a beneficent sky. One of my favourite florals from the ever-lovely Dawn Spencer Hurwitz.
A burst of Iris so that come down for breakfast
we searched through the rooms for that sweetest odor and at first could not find its source then a blue as of the sea struck
startling us from among those trumpeting petals — “Iris” by William Carlos Williams
Notes: Aldehydes, ambergris, ambrette seed, angelica root, Australian sandalwood, Bulgarian rose absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, chilled prosecco accord, Florentine iris flower accord, galub attar, gold leaf (metallic note accord), grandiflorum jasmine, Mysore sandalwood, oakwood co2, orris concrete, orris root, Siam wood, violet, white oak.
Disclaimer: sample of DSH Perfumes L’Or (ris) generously supplied by DSH Perfumes. My opinions are my own.
Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
DSH Perfumes L’Or (ris) EDP
Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz we have a draw for a 10 ml of either EDP or Voile de parfum of DSH Perfumes L’Or (ris) for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about L’Or (ris) based Lauryn’s review and where you live. Draw closes 8/8/20.
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @elledebee @dshperfumes
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.