black and violet painting of DSH Perfumes Iris Tuxedo by Dawn ©

The fact that I frequently rhapsodize does not necessarily mean that I’m in error. Rhapsody may be seen as a flaw, if passion is unquestionably a flaw. So I’ll come straight out and admit that once a sample was in my hands, the button was clicked and I purchased award-winning artisan perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’ DSH Perfumes Iris Tuxedo without a second thought or any guilt whatsoever. Dawn’s muse for this perfume was the impossibly elegant, velvety ruffled black iris; in fact, she is currently working on an Iris Trilogy.

Iris by Gail Gross©

I feel amply blessed: both Dawn and our brilliant Senior Editor Gail Gross furnished me with such beautiful images when (politely) asked, and these contribute greatly to my review. In the interest of transparency,  it is a rare occasion when I request to review a particular fragrance, because I’m a team player – and no one ‘owns’ a perfumer simply because of relationship. It’s only fair to spread the bounty around. I did plead to review Iris Tuxedo, though. I think you will understand why…

 James Bond with iris gun by Gail Gross©

Tuxedos are glamorous, effortlessly chic: don one and you’ll feel like you can conquer the world.They possess the power to transform a ferret into James Bond tout d’un coup. Years ago I bought two fabulous tuxedo shirts (one beruffled, the other rather severe) which I wore with a dark navy velvet suit and English riding boots for my pants rôles as an opera singer; I also owned a full black tuxedo which I had tailored to fit my (then) very slender frame. I loved them to bits.

Holland Opera Park Prince Orlovsky via classical source©

I particularly enjoyed inhabiting the persona of that quirky Russian prince – Prince Orlovsky – in Strauss’ Die Fledermaus: masculine stance, albeit one of a dandy – downing both vodka and champagne while audaciously exhorting my guests to do whatever suits their fancy, no matter how bizarre. Brazen, arrogant, handsome, metamorphosis via costume and much more fun auf Deutsch!

Judy Garland in Summer Stock 1950 and Billy Portman at the Oscars 2020 collage digitalized by Michelyn

Tuxedos tread the tightrope wire which straddles gender: think Marlene Dietrich, Judy Garland. Like the chevaliers and goddesses of the silver screen, a tuxedo will weather time and space with undeniable elan and render you invincible.

There’s much to be said for mystery – the ambivalent, ambiguous state of never being quite certain. DSH Perfumes Iris Tuxedo fulfills my unslakable lust for mystery from the outset.  It’s so vast that once a single toe ventures over the side of the abyss you are in for the entire ride. One is plunged into a vortex of enigmatic sensuality which spins the head and the senses. It’s aromatic intoxication; my overall impression is one of celestial booziness – not gin, rum, cognac, not davana-like (not quite as dried fruit-boozy). It is champagne-like, scintillating and plummy suave. Iris Tuxedo morphs into an eau de vie, the beloved Alsatian quetsch or mirabelle of my father’s kin – a true ‘water of life’ which revives one after a luxurious and decadent repast. Black tea certainly deepens the fragrance, while the perfumer spares no expense or time in surrounding iris with accents of cassis, angelica, wood violet and a trio of exquisite roses embraced by unctuous butter CO2 and honey beeswax. Ambrette shimmers, exhibiting her various facets: animal, vegetal, floral (and yes – boozy), even slightly mineral. Iris Tuxedo’s foundation garments consist of a deer musk accord, the depth of lichen-y, forest floor oakmoss, noble aridity of Arabian myrrh – and the Golden Standard, Mysore sandalwood (sigh). The entire composition is inimitably elegant, delicious and envoûtant. It would be a divine choice for one’s signature scent.

Georgia O’Keefe Black Iris, 1926

I can’t help but think of Georgia O’Keefe’s splendid Black Iris painting from 1926. I long to caress back the silken petals and immerse myself its frilly dark velvet heart, lost to pistils and pollen, invisible to the eye. Perhaps one day I shall permit myself another sensuously austere tuxedo – one the deepest shade of black iris velvet.

Notes: ambrette seed, angelica, black plum accord, black tea, Bulgarian rose otto, rosa centifolia absolute, damask rose absolute, cassis bud, Florentine iris flower accord, iris/orris concrete, wood violet, butter CO2, honey beeswax, deer musk accord, Arabian myrrh gum, brown oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood.

Sample provided by the perfumer, and I purchased it, as I love it so. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

 

Image by Gail Gross©

Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz we have a draw for a 10 ml of either EDP or Voile de parfum of DSH Perfumes Iris Tuxedo for one registered reader worldwide. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Dawn is so prolific; do you have a personal favorite? Draw closes May 30, 2020 https://www.dshperfumes.com/

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